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RE: Club Enya - 6/9/2009 5:17 AM   
Luna_Rendezvous



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ORIGINAL: jdkxtreme

I am going to sell my 120   4c enya.. Can anyone tell me it's worth? It has about 2 or 3 tanks thru it. Comes with muffler, Box, And a few tools..I just need something smaller for my project




Guess not !!!!!!!!!!!!!



It's only worth what someone is willing to pay for it, and given the current financial instabilities, your guess is as good as anyone’s. Or were you hoping someone here would offer to buy it?



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RE: Club Enya - 6/9/2009 5:18 AM   
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ORIGINAL: jdkxtreme


quote:

ORIGINAL: jdkxtreme

I am going to sell my 120   4c enya.. Can anyone tell me it's worth? It has about 2 or 3 tanks thru it. Comes with muffler, Box, And a few tools..I just need something smaller for my project




Guess not !!!!!!!!!!!!!


Your best bet may be to search for "SOLD" Enya 120's in the RCU marketplace and see what they've been bringing.  I believe you can do the same type of research on the bay.  Good luck!

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RE: Club Enya - 6/12/2009 1:41 AM   
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Status: offline 		Hi Ed

Thanks for your advice.  We had to lean out the top end after we changed the glow plug and fuel.  During all flights after the change we got a
" good" smoke trail in the air and a nice idle to land by.  No hesitation.  The only time we get the slighly rich sound in the air is when the throttle is one or two clicks above mid range, other than that it runs fine.  Next time out I will try 1/8 turn out on the low speed screw to see if that helps.

Phil

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RE: Club Enya - 6/20/2009 4:29 PM   
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Status: offline 		Went for a fly early this morning but the rain and wind set in, so it was back home and out with the test bench. Fired up the 46-4C with an MAS K-S 12x6 running on 80% meth and 20 castor...




< Message edited by Luna_Rendezvous -- 6/20/2009 4:30 PM >

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RE: Club Enya - 6/20/2009 4:51 PM   
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ORIGINAL: jdkxtreme


quote:

ORIGINAL: jdkxtreme

I am going to sell my 120   4c enya.. Can anyone tell me it's worth? It has about 2 or 3 tanks thru it. Comes with muffler, Box, And a few tools..I just need something smaller for my project




Guess not !!!!!!!!!!!!!



It would be easier to estimate the value of you engine if it had never been run. I have seen some engines with 2-3 tanks of running that were ruined because they were stored with fuel in the crankcase.
 
Enya 4-strokes are very prone to rust damage in the cam box area if they are not loaded with oil between outings.    

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RE: Club Enya - 6/20/2009 8:38 PM   
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Status: offline 		Hello Luna;  That pop pop sound on the idle,  I've always considered that sound the sound of a well tuned idle.  I have acheived that sound on an OS 90 and a Saito 45 but I haven't acheived that sound on any other engines.  I have 4 Enya 46's but only one of them will give me that sound..  I have heard that sound coming from old OS 120's, and once from an Enya 120 4C.  All of those engine s were running an open exhaust pipe.  That sound is one of the wonderful things about our hobby.  What does it tell us about the mixture? How can I get it?

Another fellow flyer has an OS 160 twin, and had an old FT 120 twin that both had that sound, magic.


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RE: Club Enya - 6/21/2009 1:11 AM   
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quote:

ORIGINAL: rcdude7


quote:

ORIGINAL: jdkxtreme


quote:

ORIGINAL: jdkxtreme

I am going to sell my 120   4c enya.. Can anyone tell me it's worth? It has about 2 or 3 tanks thru it. Comes with muffler, Box, And a few tools..I just need something smaller for my project




Guess not !!!!!!!!!!!!!



It would be easier to estimate the value of you engine if it had never been run. I have seen some engines with 2-3 tanks of running that were ruined because they were stored with fuel in the crankcase.
 
Enya 4-strokes are very prone to rust damage in the cam box area if they are not loaded with oil between outings.    



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RE: Club Enya - 6/21/2009 4:23 AM   
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Hello Luna;  That pop pop sound on the idle,  I've always considered that sound the sound of a well tuned idle.  I have acheived that sound on an OS 90 and a Saito 45 but I haven't acheived that sound on any other engines.  I have 4 Enya 46's but only one of them will give me that sound..  I have heard that sound coming from old OS 120's, and once from an Enya 120 4C.  All of those engine s were running an open exhaust pipe.  That sound is one of the wonderful things about our hobby.  What does it tell us about the mixture? How can I get it?

Another fellow flyer has an OS 160 twin, and had an old FT 120 twin that both had that sound, magic.



This is my first 4 stroke so that funky "Popping" sound is new to me; I would assume it has to do with cam timing and header length, also a good valve seal might be important. I'm really quite impressed at the power this engine is producing, especially without any nitro  

Mike.
 


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RE: Club Enya - 6/25/2009 7:32 AM   
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Status: offline 		Well I finally put my enya to the air in my Sr. telemaster tonight..Not very impressed at all. I have spent a few hours trying to get it tuned. I think I am close on it..It pops out the carb, No power.I am at a loss...Barely got my tele off the ground..I am pulling it off and selling it and going saito..

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RE: Club Enya - 6/25/2009 9:38 AM   
NM2K


 

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Status: offline 		Which Enya engine do you have? How much total running time do you think? Has it ever been apart? Which size prop/which fuel/which glow plug are you using?

A Saito won't be that much stronger than an Enya of similar displacement. A YS will be considerably stronger than the Enya of a similar size.

Wrong size prop, wrong glow plug and wrong fuel could be causing your woes, but I'd suspect something is amiss in the valve train. Either the timing in the cam gears is off or something is bent - a valve stem or two. It should be simple to fix, once understood.

My 60-4C and 80-4C engines manhandle my Senior Telemasters with ease, and I burn 5 to 10% nitro fuel when using my Enya four-strokes. A good Enya #3 or OS Type F glow plug works marvelously well in my Enya four-stroke engines. A 53-4C will easily fly the Senior Telemaster of average weight, but it will not fly it in the man handled class. It will power it very adequately for what the model was designed to do.

I would check the carburetor's seal to the induction pipe and the induction pipe's seal to the cylinder head too.

One thing I will say is that the Enya four-strokes are made of hard metal and are designed and machined for a very long life span. These are not instant gratification, low break-in time engines. If you're impatient, sell it, as you suggested, and buy something with softer metal that will break-in quickly, like a Saito or OS. Now hurry, before you forget what we were talking about...

Ummh. What were we talking about?


Ed Cregger




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RE: Club Enya - 6/25/2009 10:58 AM   
Ram Jet



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Well I finally put my enya to the air in my Sr. telemaster tonight..Not very impressed at all. I have spent a few hours trying to get it tuned. I think I am close on it..It pops out the carb, No power.I am at a loss...Barely got my tele off the ground..I am pulling it off and selling it and going saito..


When you sell it let me know where and when.

Regards,
Bill

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RE: Club Enya - 6/25/2009 5:47 PM   
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Which Enya engine do you have? How much total running time do you think? Has it ever been apart? Which size prop/which fuel/which glow plug are you using?


I have the 120 4c.. Not the "R"
Total run time. Maybe an hour
Never been apart
Os F plug
S&W fuel 15%
16x6 K series prop

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RE: Club Enya - 6/25/2009 5:49 PM   
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Status: offline 		Also it will be listed on here for 200.00 sometime today or tonight. You guys have first chance. May trade for something like os or saito..

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RE: Club Enya - 6/25/2009 9:27 PM   
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Status: offline 		On another note., This motor is inverted. Will that make it run different?

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RE: Club Enya - 7/11/2009 7:04 AM   
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Status: offline 		I just pulled an old Enya 120 4c from an old Silk & Dope Stinson 108 that I flew then stored 12 years ago. One of the valves was stuck and when I tried to knock it loose, I broke the valve adjuster screw. I ordered the part from enya Direct and got all clarification and confirmations via email immediately from Ken Enya himself, then received 2 screws and 2 nuts in 3 days from Japan! And for only $17! Incredible service. After setting the valves and cleaning it up inside and outside, it looks, turns, and feels brand new. (I still have to run it).
Anyway, I remember that the old ads for it said something like it has the dimensions and mounting pattern of a standard .91 size engine. I have a Goldberg J3 Anniversary cub on the way to me and now, I'm thinking of putting this engine in there. I had originally planned to put a Saito 80 in it but now that I have this, one can never have enough power, right? I'm picking up the hobby again after 12 years of absence. I had a J3 Cub with an OS .91 Surpass in it and it was an awesome sport flier and became a favorite.

So is this overkill and do you guys think it's too heavy for this airplane?

Thanks in advance for your opinions and advice.

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RE: Club Enya - 7/11/2009 2:33 PM   
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Status: offline 		That's a whole lot of engine for a Cub that size. Many are flying them with .70's or .80's and I know of several that are powered by Saito .56's. Of course you can always throttle back, right? You will likely have to add some ballast to the tail to get it to balance (probably not all that much, but some). Reinforcing the firewall is also recommended - I'd pin it and fiberglass it. Prop clearance is another potential problem. Your 1.20 needs a pretty large prop for plane this size. One way to get a bit more ground clearance for your prop would be to put some oversize tires on it and make it an Alaskan bush plane Last, you'll have to cut away a good bit of cowling for this engine. Good luck and let us know how it all comes out. Post some pics and video, please.

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RE: Club Enya - 7/12/2009 5:23 PM   
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Status: offline 		Thanks. Maybe I'll go back to the Saito80 plan. I can just recover the Stinson 108 and put it back in there.Big project...
I don't have the J3 yet and I'm anxious as it's an ARF but I'd like to clip the wings. I'm wondering if it's possible with the way they built the wing halves. I've had maybe 3 Goldberg cubs and always clipped the wings and took some dihedral out.

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RE: Club Enya - 7/22/2009 11:11 PM   
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Status: offline 		I am a newbie to Gas engines well RC in general. I was given a Enya 60 model 7032 almost NIB(New In plastic Baggie). The original owner bought the engine test run it for 30mins. Then put it in a baggie and never built a plane to put it on. That was 1967. Fast forward to couple of weeks ago, I get a really good deal on a Tiger Trainer 40 with a Thunder Tiger Pro 46 already on it for $70. Just had to bind and fly. Well I got that in the air and verified that I could fly. I had never flown previous to last weekend, I had just learned and practiced in RealFlight G4.5. It was just like the real thing using the PT-40. I had no problems getting the plane up flying it or landing it. Well I was talking to this guy about it and said I was building something more acrobatic but was needing a bigger engine. He said he had just what I needed and pulled out this Enya 60 and said I could have it so long as I put it up in the air. There is no manual, but more importantly no muffler. I had no problems starting the Thunder Tiger motor. But I haven't been able to get the Enya going well enough to fly yet. How should I set the carb?? I read somewhere about a JE300 muffler that could strap on to the case???? If I get this muffler and hook up the vent line will it improve reliabilty with the constant fuel pressure. If add the muffler do I remove the exhaust flapper thing attached to the carb???? I just not for sure what to do. I live really far out in the boonies and not any other RCers close by to ask for help.

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RE: Club Enya - 7/23/2009 1:07 AM   
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Status: offline 		The old Enya didn't need muffler pressure


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RE: Club Enya - 7/23/2009 2:03 AM   
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Status: online 		RC, that is the reason for the screw you see here. On the smaller .46MKII and .53TN I use the screw that holds the carb bracket, I remove the screw and inject Corrosion X. No rust since doing that. The screw in the .90 gear box was drilled and tapped for an M4 screw.

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< Message edited by Hobbsy -- 7/23/2009 2:10 AM >

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RE: Club Enya - 7/23/2009 2:09 AM   
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Status: offline 		Thanks for the quick reply w8ye.

I would like to find a copy of the manual just so I have a better understanding of the motor and it's settings. I did figure out part of my problem and while I haven't test flown it yet I did get it running pretty good. The exhaust flapper thingy screw had loosened and the flapper was open when at idle and closed at WOT knowing real engines I knew that couldn't be right so moved it 90* so it was closed at idle and open at WOT. Fired up and ran much easier had a lot of power. I am guessing 2stroke carb tuning is all about the same???? On the Tiger Thunder manual said to turn out needle valve 2 1/2 turns to start it. After starting and a little warm up go WOT adjust for maximum RPM then richen back up till there is a slight drop in RPM. Test by pinching fuel line. RPMs should increase. Still not for sure on the adjustment of the air screw though.

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RE: Club Enya - 7/23/2009 2:29 AM   
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Status: offline 		Your High speed settings are correct

For the air bleed place the end of the screw half way across the hole to begin with

The air bleed controls air not fuel so screwing it out gives more air and makes the mixture leaner



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RE: Club Enya - 7/23/2009 2:53 AM   
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Thanks for the quick reply w8ye.

I would like to find a copy of the manual just so I have a better understanding of the motor and it's settings. I did figure out part of my problem and while I haven't test flown it yet I did get it running pretty good. The exhaust flapper thingy screw had loosened and the flapper was open when at idle and closed at WOT knowing real engines I knew that couldn't be right so moved it 90* so it was closed at idle and open at WOT. Fired up and ran much easier had a lot of power. I am guessing 2stroke carb tuning is all about the same???? On the Tiger Thunder manual said to turn out needle valve 2 1/2 turns to start it. After starting and a little warm up go WOT adjust for maximum RPM then richen back up till there is a slight drop in RPM. Test by pinching fuel line. RPMs should increase. Still not for sure on the adjustment of the air screw though.



Hope this helps. Courtesey of Ken Enya.

Bill

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RE: Club Enya - 7/23/2009 6:21 AM   
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Status: offline 		Thanks Ram Jet but the motor I have is the Enya 60II model 7032 circa 1966. The carb on mine does not have a choke. Although the 46 motor looks really intereseting and I will have to keep an eye out for one now.

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RE: Club Enya - 7/23/2009 6:27 AM   
w8ye



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Status: offline 		Here's a 60 IIIB


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