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RE: Club Enya - 8/20/2012 8:52 AM   
AmishWarlord



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I did a test to see if I could get a 1080 HD video to upload.

It worked.

This is how clear my video is supposed to be!

Now to figure out to keep my laptop from shutting down before the 5 hour upload is complete.



< Message edited by AmishWarlord -- 8/20/2012 2:17 PM >


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RE: Club Enya - 8/20/2012 2:07 PM   
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Unfortunately, the link doesn't bring up any video.


Ed Cregger


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RE: Club Enya - 8/29/2012 1:48 AM   
1QwkSport2.5r



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I dont know if anyone is interested, but there's 4 Enya 4-strokes in the classified section. .46, .80, .90, and a 1.20...

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RE: Club Enya - 9/19/2012 5:18 AM   
Ram Jet



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To all those who own an Enya .46 4-C. I decided to replace all the bearings in my .46 today. It was a fairly easy task to get three of the four bearings out of the cases with a-little heat. The last bearing, the tiny little bearing in the back camshaft housing that supports the cam drive gear shaft, seemed impossible. What do you grab on to to pull it out? What worked pretty nicely was heating the camshaft housing on my gas stove burner. I had to get it so hot that the residual oil left on the case began to smoke. Four wacks on my kitchen counter top and the little bearing fell out. Now to call RC Bearings tomorrow.

Cheers,
Bill

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RE: Club Enya - 9/19/2012 8:59 AM   
AmishWarlord



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quote:

ORIGINAL: Ram Jet

Now to call RC Bearings tomorrow.

Cheers,
Bill


Then scream, "Are you kidding me? I could have just bought a NIB engine off ebay for that much"!

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RE: Club Enya - 9/19/2012 9:08 AM   
Ram Jet



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quote:

ORIGINAL: AmishWarlord


quote:

ORIGINAL: Ram Jet

Now to call RC Bearings tomorrow.

Cheers,
Bill


Then scream, ''Are you kidding me? I could have just bought a NIB engine off ebay for that much''!


Do you mean that RC Bearings is expensive? They fixed me up with some weird bearings for my K&B 3.5 outboard racing engine for dirt! Where do you get your bearings, China?

Cheers,
Bill

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RE: Club Enya - 9/19/2012 9:46 AM   
AmishWarlord



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Na, just see those bearings on eBay when looking for engines. Saw a set for the Super Tigre G-45 for $80 a new G-45 is only $75!

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RE: Club Enya - 9/19/2012 11:03 AM   
Ram Jet



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I'll let you know what RC Bearing charges. I think about half or less than the prices you mentioned and you can be sure of the quality from RC Bearings. I'll post the prices - promise.

Cheers,
Bill

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RE: Club Enya - 9/19/2012 12:59 PM   
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I have never seen a camshaft bearing go bad.

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RE: Club Enya - 9/19/2012 1:09 PM   
1QwkSport2.5r



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Thats good to know, Bill. I'll make a note of that if/when I have to replace the bearings in my 60-4C. I found another bearing joint on the internet, AvidRC.com. These guys sell a huge assortment of bearings, all for $1 each. I bought a bunch of their bearings for my RC cars axles and transmissions, and so far they seem smooth and work well. I dont know if they carry engine bearings or not. I'll have to look into it.

Since I'm thinking about it, I have to ask the Enya folks here... My 60-4C has about a gallon through it now, tried several different glow plugs. I can get satisfactory performance from it, but it will not transition smoothly from idle. Either its lean and cuts out slightly on transition, or its burpy and smokey and transition is slow. Sounds as though its going to quit. If I set it between these two "extremes" it will still burp and gurgle. Will this engine ever transition smoothly? I've read a number of articles and reviews of this engine when it came out (the last article was a review by Peter Chinn) and they've all said that these engines ran well, transitioned good, and ran on straight FAI fuel for break-in.

I've tried several plugs, OS F, Fox Idlebar, Fox Miracle, McCoy 59. Fuel I've tried is 5% nitro / 20% castor, 15% nitro / 18% oil (80/20) byrons gen2, 20% nitro / 20% oil (50/50 cas/klotz). Props I've ran are 12x6 and 13x6 APC, both fully balanced (blades and hub). On the 12x6 it transitions rich, but it sounds better than when running on the 13x6. After revving up and back down to idle, it hangs a high idle for a moment, then drops to the burbly rich idle it seems to like. If you try throttling it before this "high idle" drops, it cuts out. I have the engine idling between 2700-3000rpm per the Enya instruction leaflet. The airbleed is about 2/3 closed, and to get it to idle at this setting, the throttle barrel is open about 1/4-1/3 of its travel. Any thoughts? Am I beating a dead horse expecting a relatively smooth transition? I expect some burbles, but the other day while running the engine it quit on me in an inconvenient spot. I've been running it about 300rpm rich of peak RPM.



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RE: Club Enya - 9/19/2012 2:53 PM   
Ram Jet



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quote:

ORIGINAL: Sport_Pilot

I have never seen a camshaft bearing go bad.


The absolute worse bearing (s) was my "camshaft drive shaft bearing (s). My main bearings were just slightly gritty but for a-while probsbly seviceable. I figured what the heck, I got rid of the Enya ring with a .011" end gap and installed a Frank Bowman ring with a .0015" end gap. New bearings and I'll have a "like new" engine. The cam drive shaft bearing bit the dust because the previous owner was lazy in the after-run oil department. If you want to see bad cam bearings give me your address and when I get my new bearings I'll mail the old ones to you so you know.

Cheers,
Bill

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RE: Club Enya - 9/19/2012 3:07 PM   
Ram Jet



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ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r

Thats good to know, Bill. I'll make a note of that if/when I have to replace the bearings in my 60-4C. I found another bearing joint on the internet, AvidRC.com. These guys sell a huge assortment of bearings, all for $1 each. I bought a bunch of their bearings for my RC cars axles and transmissions, and so far they seem smooth and work well. I dont know if they carry engine bearings or not. I'll have to look into it.

Since I'm thinking about it, I have to ask the Enya folks here... My 60-4C has about a gallon through it now, tried several different glow plugs. I can get satisfactory performance from it, but it will not transition smoothly from idle. Either its lean and cuts out slightly on transition, or its burpy and smokey and transition is slow. Sounds as though its going to quit. If I set it between these two ''extremes'' it will still burp and gurgle. Will this engine ever transition smoothly? I've read a number of articles and reviews of this engine when it came out (the last article was a review by Peter Chinn) and they've all said that these engines ran well, transitioned good, and ran on straight FAI fuel for break-in.

I've tried several plugs, OS F, Fox Idlebar, Fox Miracle, McCoy 59. Fuel I've tried is 5% nitro / 20% castor, 15% nitro / 18% oil (80/20) byrons gen2, 20% nitro / 20% oil (50/50 cas/klotz). Props I've ran are 12x6 and 13x6 APC, both fully balanced (blades and hub). On the 12x6 it transitions rich, but it sounds better than when running on the 13x6. After revving up and back down to idle, it hangs a high idle for a moment, then drops to the burbly rich idle it seems to like. If you try throttling it before this ''high idle'' drops, it cuts out. I have the engine idling between 2700-3000rpm per the Enya instruction leaflet. The airbleed is about 2/3 closed, and to get it to idle at this setting, the throttle barrel is open about 1/4-1/3 of its travel. Any thoughts? Am I beating a dead horse expecting a relatively smooth transition? I expect some burbles, but the other day while running the engine it quit on me in an inconvenient spot. I've been running it about 300rpm rich of peak RPM.





I wish I could give you some advice. I have a brand new, never run Enya 1.55 that I just put a Bowman ring in and a .46. I have yet to run either. I don't have an application for either engine but I'm looking forward to breaking them in on a test stand anyway. I have them because I love Enyas and I got both for a song. I think that I might consider installing a Perry carb if the throttle transition annoyed me enough. I know you care about your little .60 because you've put a-lot of time into it. The are some real sharp 4 cycle Enya guys on this site that can probably chime-in on this issue.

I admire your determination to get the .60 "right" Stay with it and maybe I'll learn something to.

Cheers,
Bill

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RE: Club Enya - 9/19/2012 3:14 PM   
Ram Jet



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quote:

ORIGINAL: AmishWarlord

Na, just see those bearings on eBay when looking for engines. Saw a set for the Super Tigre G-45 for $80 a new G-45 is only $75!



I see bearings on eBay too but I wouldn't buy there. I totally trust RC Bearings to get the correct, quality bearings I need. They are very knowledgeable and though they had a hard time doing it they got me some beautiful bearings for my K&B 3.5 racing outboard engine I really tust these guys. They eve turned me on to a sythetic lithium grease made by Amsoil for the lower unit on my outboard. Now I use the same lithium grease on my motorcycle.

Cheers,
Bill

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RE: Club Enya - 9/19/2012 3:52 PM   
1QwkSport2.5r



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quote:

ORIGINAL: Ram Jet


quote:

ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r

Thats good to know, Bill. I'll make a note of that if/when I have to replace the bearings in my 60-4C. I found another bearing joint on the internet, AvidRC.com. These guys sell a huge assortment of bearings, all for $1 each. I bought a bunch of their bearings for my RC cars axles and transmissions, and so far they seem smooth and work well. I dont know if they carry engine bearings or not. I'll have to look into it.

Since I'm thinking about it, I have to ask the Enya folks here... My 60-4C has about a gallon through it now, tried several different glow plugs. I can get satisfactory performance from it, but it will not transition smoothly from idle. Either its lean and cuts out slightly on transition, or its burpy and smokey and transition is slow. Sounds as though its going to quit. If I set it between these two ''extremes'' it will still burp and gurgle. Will this engine ever transition smoothly? I've read a number of articles and reviews of this engine when it came out (the last article was a review by Peter Chinn) and they've all said that these engines ran well, transitioned good, and ran on straight FAI fuel for break-in.

I've tried several plugs, OS F, Fox Idlebar, Fox Miracle, McCoy 59. Fuel I've tried is 5% nitro / 20% castor, 15% nitro / 18% oil (80/20) byrons gen2, 20% nitro / 20% oil (50/50 cas/klotz). Props I've ran are 12x6 and 13x6 APC, both fully balanced (blades and hub). On the 12x6 it transitions rich, but it sounds better than when running on the 13x6. After revving up and back down to idle, it hangs a high idle for a moment, then drops to the burbly rich idle it seems to like. If you try throttling it before this ''high idle'' drops, it cuts out. I have the engine idling between 2700-3000rpm per the Enya instruction leaflet. The airbleed is about 2/3 closed, and to get it to idle at this setting, the throttle barrel is open about 1/4-1/3 of its travel. Any thoughts? Am I beating a dead horse expecting a relatively smooth transition? I expect some burbles, but the other day while running the engine it quit on me in an inconvenient spot. I've been running it about 300rpm rich of peak RPM.





I wish I could give you some advice. I have a brand new, never run Enya 1.55 that I just put a Bowman ring in and a .46. I have yet to run either. I don't have an application for either engine but I'm looking forward to breaking them in on a test stand anyway. I have them because I love Enyas and I got both for a song. I think that I might consider installing a Perry carb if the throttle transition annoyed me enough. I know you care about your little .60 because you've put a-lot of time into it. The are some real sharp 4 cycle Enya guys on this site that can probably chime-in on this issue.

I admire your determination to get the .60 ''right'' Stay with it and maybe I'll learn something to.

Cheers,
Bill

Well, I've been running it on an airboat lately, and after some extra test stand time, I had it running really well despite the slow burbly transition. I chocked it up to still breaking in, as it is still doing now I believe. It runs fine on the top end, and it idles nice and low. Watching the prop momentarily stop at 1400rpm is neat. If I kept the plug lit, I could probably get it to idle down to 1200 or less. This is not the objective though. I more or less wanted to know if the .60 (and consequently the .80) will transition smoothly after it has enough time on it. I'm happy with the engine, and I'm fine burbling it at idle... I would like to see it transition a little better. I'm probably chasing my tail on this one, but based on those articles I read, This engine should transition better than it is. I have some videos of the airboat running with the Enya on it, and in one of them you can hear it cut out a little here and there, which was me getting back on the throttle before the idle dropped to the burble. The idle hangs 500-600rpm higher than the burbly idle for 2-3 seconds before dropping to the real idle speed. This tells me the idle is too rich, but any leaner and it cuts out on transition.. I'll get it.. It might involve getting my hands on some Enya #3 plugs, which is what plug they used in the Review article. I'd be bothered if it only runs "great" on Enya plugs and "OK" on anything else. It prefers Fox long idlebar plugs, but does okay on OS F plugs too. The way this engine transitions, I would not trust it in a plane.

I'm going to go outside and run it a little, I have another new glow plug to test in it - a McCoy MC4C. I have a few other props to test, of which I'll post in my tach thread.



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RE: Club Enya - 9/19/2012 4:40 PM   
1QwkSport2.5r



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I just experimented with 3 glow plugs on a 11x9 APC prop. Best transition was with the McCoy MC4C plug, but top rpm was only about 9830. Best top rpm is 9930 with the Fox idlebar, OS F plug behaved the same as the idlebar as far as transition goes. 61°F air temp, 5% nitro 20% castor fuel. Perhaps its all about the glow plug with this engine. I can live with a lower top rpm if the transition quality is good. Transition was much quicker on the 11x9 prop compared to the 13x6 that I had on it the other day. The 12x6 transitions pretty well, about the same as the 11x9. Maybe it isnt ready for the 13x6 yet..

I did notice with all three plugs that the engine goes lean and will cut out and sometimes quit at about 7300rpm. I advanced the throttle slowly from idle (2900) and once I hit about 7200-7300 it leans out a bit and if kept there will quit. Richening the main needle made the lean spot less prominent, but still remained even with the needle richened down to 8000rpm.

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RE: Club Enya - 9/19/2012 5:51 PM   
Ram Jet



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quote:

ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r

quote:

ORIGINAL: Ram Jet


quote:

ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r

Thats good to know, Bill. I'll make a note of that if/when I have to replace the bearings in my 60-4C. I found another bearing joint on the internet, AvidRC.com. These guys sell a huge assortment of bearings, all for $1 each. I bought a bunch of their bearings for my RC cars axles and transmissions, and so far they seem smooth and work well. I dont know if they carry engine bearings or not. I'll have to look into it.

Since I'm thinking about it, I have to ask the Enya folks here... My 60-4C has about a gallon through it now, tried several different glow plugs. I can get satisfactory performance from it, but it will not transition smoothly from idle. Either its lean and cuts out slightly on transition, or its burpy and smokey and transition is slow. Sounds as though its going to quit. If I set it between these two ''extremes'' it will still burp and gurgle. Will this engine ever transition smoothly? I've read a number of articles and reviews of this engine when it came out (the last article was a review by Peter Chinn) and they've all said that these engines ran well, transitioned good, and ran on straight FAI fuel for break-in.

I've tried several plugs, OS F, Fox Idlebar, Fox Miracle, McCoy 59. Fuel I've tried is 5% nitro / 20% castor, 15% nitro / 18% oil (80/20) byrons gen2, 20% nitro / 20% oil (50/50 cas/klotz). Props I've ran are 12x6 and 13x6 APC, both fully balanced (blades and hub). On the 12x6 it transitions rich, but it sounds better than when running on the 13x6. After revving up and back down to idle, it hangs a high idle for a moment, then drops to the burbly rich idle it seems to like. If you try throttling it before this ''high idle'' drops, it cuts out. I have the engine idling between 2700-3000rpm per the Enya instruction leaflet. The airbleed is about 2/3 closed, and to get it to idle at this setting, the throttle barrel is open about 1/4-1/3 of its travel. Any thoughts? Am I beating a dead horse expecting a relatively smooth transition? I expect some burbles, but the other day while running the engine it quit on me in an inconvenient spot. I've been running it about 300rpm rich of peak RPM.





I wish I could give you some advice. I have a brand new, never run Enya 1.55 that I just put a Bowman ring in and a .46. I have yet to run either. I don't have an application for either engine but I'm looking forward to breaking them in on a test stand anyway. I have them because I love Enyas and I got both for a song. I think that I might consider installing a Perry carb if the throttle transition annoyed me enough. I know you care about your little .60 because you've put a-lot of time into it. The are some real sharp 4 cycle Enya guys on this site that can probably chime-in on this issue.

I admire your determination to get the .60 ''right'' Stay with it and maybe I'll learn something to.

Cheers,
Bill

Well, I've been running it on an airboat lately, and after some extra test stand time, I had it running really well despite the slow burbly transition. I chocked it up to still breaking in, as it is still doing now I believe. It runs fine on the top end, and it idles nice and low. Watching the prop momentarily stop at 1400rpm is neat. If I kept the plug lit, I could probably get it to idle down to 1200 or less. This is not the objective though. I more or less wanted to know if the .60 (and consequently the .80) will transition smoothly after it has enough time on it. I'm happy with the engine, and I'm fine burbling it at idle... I would like to see it transition a little better. I'm probably chasing my tail on this one, but based on those articles I read, This engine should transition better than it is. I have some videos of the airboat running with the Enya on it, and in one of them you can hear it cut out a little here and there, which was me getting back on the throttle before the idle dropped to the burble. The idle hangs 500-600rpm higher than the burbly idle for 2-3 seconds before dropping to the real idle speed. This tells me the idle is too rich, but any leaner and it cuts out on transition.. I'll get it.. It might involve getting my hands on some Enya #3 plugs, which is what plug they used in the Review article. I'd be bothered if it only runs ''great'' on Enya plugs and ''OK'' on anything else. It prefers Fox long idlebar plugs, but does okay on OS F plugs too. The way this engine transitions, I would not trust it in a plane.

I'm going to go outside and run it a little, I have another new glow plug to test in it - a McCoy MC4C. I have a few other props to test, of which I'll post in my tach thread.





I was going to suggest the Enya #3 plug to you. Over the years I have read over and over again on this forum that the #3 is what two and four cycle Enyas like. Myself i don't mind buying Enya plugs regardless of the cost. Why, because the poor SOBs at Enya have never gotten a dime from me. I bought my .09, 2-.19s, .40BB, .46, 1.55 all on eBay. I feel a-little guilty. Especially when I contacted Ken Enya yesterday and asked for the PDFs of the specs and instruction shetts for my .46 and 1.55. They were in my E-mail box inside of two hours. Great support from a great company and I buy my engines on eBay. I hang my head. Buy the GD #3s from Enya direct. They are great plugs and how much effort have you put into your engines thus far? What's a couple of bucks for what I think are the finest model engines you can buy?

Cheers,
Bill

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RE: Club Enya - 9/19/2012 6:59 PM   
1QwkSport2.5r



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ORIGINAL: Ram Jet



I was going to suggest the Enya #3 plug to you. Over the years I have read over and over again on this forum that the #3 is what two and four cycle Enyas like. Myself i don't mind buying Enya plugs regardless of the cost. Why, because the poor SOBs at Enya have never gotten a dime from me. I bought my .09, 2-.19s, .40BB, .46, 1.55 all on eBay. I feel a-little guilty. Especially when I contacted Ken Enya yesterday and asked for the PDFs of the specs and instruction shetts for my .46 and 1.55. They were in my E-mail box inside of two hours. Great support from a great company and I buy my engines on eBay. I hang my head. Buy the GD #3s from Enya direct. They are great plugs and how much effort have you put into your engines thus far? What's a couple of bucks for what I think are the finest model engines you can buy?

Cheers,
Bill

The last time I went looking for Enya #3 plugs, I couldn't find any nearby. Most of the online shops that sell them were either out of stock or wanted $12 each PLUS shipping. I just came across a new shop I hadn't seen before that has them for $6 each plus $6 for shipping, and I get a first time buyer 10% discount. I ordered three plugs. When they show up, I will promptly try one.

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RE: Club Enya - 9/19/2012 7:59 PM   
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Enya makes a four cycle plug now...

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RE: Club Enya - 9/19/2012 8:09 PM   
1QwkSport2.5r



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Enya makes a four cycle plug now...

Yes they do, and they're $12 each. The instructions call for a #3, so I'll use that. If the #3 doesn't do the trick, I'll stick it on the shelf. I find it pretty hard to believe this engine is going to be this picky on glow plugs.

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RE: Club Enya - 9/19/2012 8:16 PM   
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Ebay item number 290618529766. $18.99 plus $275 shipping. I bought 4 to try them out.

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RE: Club Enya - 9/19/2012 9:36 PM   
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I typically use Fox Miracle glow plugs in my 4 stroke engines. It works well for me. If I remember right they sell for around $7.95 each maybe less.
But when glow plugs cost about $20 each with $275 shipping, it is too rich for my blood.


I remember last year when Horizon accidentally listed Saito glow plugs for $34.95 each plus shipping.
Of course they corrected it fairly fast, I hope no one got ripped off at the time though.



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RE: Club Enya - 9/19/2012 9:39 PM   
rrengineer



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That's $18.99 for two plugs. Should have mentioned that.
Mike

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RE: Club Enya - 9/19/2012 9:42 PM   
1QwkSport2.5r



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quote:

ORIGINAL: rrengineer

Ebay item number 290618529766. $18.99 plus $2.75 shipping. I bought 4 to try them out.

Thanks for the info, but like I said. If the Enya #3 plugs don't help the engine behave better, it's going on the shelf for display. I've already spent enough time and money to get this engine running reliably. It runs well on top, and idles okay. No explanation on the 7,300rpm lean out, and the slow/stumble transition. It's so rich on the low end that on throttle up you can see oil spraying from the exhaust. It's only getting 20%oil.

There is no carbon on the piston or in the exhaust.

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RE: Club Enya - 9/19/2012 9:46 PM   
1QwkSport2.5r



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quote:

ORIGINAL: earlwb

I typically use Fox Miracle glow plugs in my 4 stroke engines. It works well for me. If I remember right they sell for around $7.95 each maybe less.
But when glow plugs cost about $20 each with $275 shipping, it is too rich for my blood.


I remember last year when Horizon accidentally listed Saito glow plugs for $34.95 each plus shipping.
Of course they corrected it fairly fast, I hope no one got ripped off at the time though.



I tried a few plugs, a miracle plug being one of them. I have a thread in the tach forum for my 60-4C. Miracle plug was the worst performing of all tested. My 860 foot elevation may have something to do with that, but it ran no different using 15 or 20% nitro. So far it runs best on the idlebar or MC4C. I'll try the #3 Enya plug when they arrive. I use the miracle plug in my ST S90K instead.

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RE: Club Enya - 9/19/2012 9:53 PM   
earlwb


 

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I know you probably have done it already, but have you tried test running the engine on a engine test stand instead of your airboat (I assume)?
When something isn't behaving, I pull the engine out of whatever it was in and put it on the test stand. If it runs good there, then I know where to look for the problem.  I have had engines before have running problems in a airplane, but I didn't see anything wrong. So I test run the engine on a test stand and it runs good again. So then I know there is a problem with the fuel system somewhere.  I had this happen once and when I pulled out the fuel tank and got to looking at everything I discovered the fuel tubing was partially blocked off with a chunk of silicon tubing inside. Apparently when they were extruding the tubing or something, a glob came off and went on down the line like that. It was very difficult to see too.  I have also bought fuel tubing in bulk before and found tiny bits of styrofoam inside the tubing too. Then one time I found a little bug wedged inside the tubing too.
Someone else had no end of trouble with a engine and they discovered the fuel tubing wasn't hollow at all, but solid, but the ends were hollow though. That sure makes for some frustrating issues.

One other thought is the carb might have a issue with it. Wrong needle valve for the engine maybe, or a partially clogged or obstructed passage or something. It isn't common with the Japanese engines but every once in a blue moon they mess up a carb somehow at the factory.




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