RE: New ZDZ-80  
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RE: New ZDZ-80 - 10/29/2007 4:43:32 AM   
gooseF22


 

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Sorry texas, missed the post.
will let you know. should fly it in the next few days.

Lyle they are hard to start when new until you get the hang of it. push a little air in the vent hole with a syringe when you choke it on the first 5 flips.

I tried the 5/5 method and it didnt work for me.

what I have been doing is propping it with choke a few flips, then flipping it hot until it fires, then open the choke, crack the throttle, and flip it until it runs. has been taking about 15.

Mine is just breaking in. I think my motor is hard to start on 32:1, and when it was new.

The other day it began to start warm on the first flip finally. Hang in there, the power is awesome.

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RE: New ZDZ-80 - 10/29/2007 5:38:25 AM   
dptp9lf


 

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Thanks Goose!
Your right it takes a nack.
When cold I just choke it with ing on until it fires then 1/2 choke at very low throttle setting and it starts pretty good.
When warm like maybe a minute or 2 after shutting it down it seems to need choking. Even when you do get it running, it idles good but when you bring it up in revs it still needs some choking to keep it running for a few moments then release the choke and she runs great.
I like your idea of pressurizing it a bit to get it wet.
Can't wait to get this baby in the air!
Cheers,
Lyle

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RE: New ZDZ-80 - 12/2/2007 8:23:02 AM   
jratuszn


 

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Working on trying to squeeze this guy into an enlarged Taylor corsair - I'd like to go with the KS setup, was wondering how short I could go on the header before I have to worry about heat issues killing the PTFE joiner tube? I'm looking at a really short run from the header to the can if I want everything to fit as I have it in my mind right now, and maybe just brazing it is the way to go, but i think the vibrations would crack the joints in short order if I did this, and so I'd prefer to have a flexible link between the can and the exhaust stub. Also thought about the metal flex tubing straight off the exhaust stub to the can, but I'm also worried about heat issues with this (not to mention the inevitable mess it would make when exhaust seeps through the flex tube all over the inside of the cowl).

Thanks-

-J

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       Post #: 753

RE: New ZDZ-80 - 12/2/2007 1:46:01 PM   
Scoubidou



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The KS-95 is tuned canister and need 10''-11'' header to work properly. If you want to run your engine on very short header, go with BMB or JMB canister.
Daniel

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RE: New ZDZ-80 - 12/2/2007 5:05:17 PM   
JoeAirPort



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From: Milwaukee, WI, USA
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quote:

ORIGINAL: dptp9lf

Thanks Goose!
Your right it takes a nack.
When cold I just choke it with ing on until it fires then 1/2 choke at very low throttle setting and it starts pretty good.
When warm like maybe a minute or 2 after shutting it down it seems to need choking. Even when you do get it running, it idles good but when you bring it up in revs it still needs some choking to keep it running for a few moments then release the choke and she runs great.
I like your idea of pressurizing it a bit to get it wet.
Can't wait to get this baby in the air!
Cheers,
Lyle


Yep ZDZs like to start using the choke like standard engines on our lawn and garden equipment. Then after it gets running and starts to sound like it's choking on fuel, turn the choke off. Mine is so easy to start...I pretty much get it on the first flip every time...AFTER the proper priming and using the choke. The most useful hint I got was from Dick Hanson: listen to the piston/cylinder sound as you are priming the engine. You can hear a squish sound when the gas gets to the cylinder. Flip it a few more times after hearing that squish sound (with full choke)...then open the choke to get a few flips of air in the cumbustion chamber....half to 3/4 choke at high idle depening how cold it is outside and it fires right up.

So it might be 5-5-1 or 10-5-1, or 20-5-1, it all depends how well the engine sucks fuel from the tank. Wait for the squishy sound. Then on the last flip use some choke. It works like a dream

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RE: New ZDZ-80 - 12/2/2007 7:11:24 PM   
dptp9lf


 

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Joe...
That's exactly how my weedeater starts and that's what I'm beginning to realize with my ZDZ

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RE: New ZDZ-80 - 12/24/2007 7:01:59 AM   
Gus155


 

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busy running in my 80 rvj, had a look at the ZDZ website and they recomend the low needle 1 1/4-1 1/2 tturns out and the high needle at 1 3/4 - 2 turns out. dont know for what carb that is, cause mine with the tillotson carb dosnt run too good like that, runs great on the ground but dosnt pull in the air, found 1.5 turns on both needles worked better but still the motor dosnt respond well, but am still running on 32:1 mix.
A question:
What are you guys with the tillotson carbs needle settings? (swinging a 26x10 menz)

The motor is in a 33% su31, which means the carb is inside the motor box. the motor box has a few large holes in it from the previous motor, the first flight with the rvj, i blocked up the holes and it ran good on the ground but was hunting while flying.

havnt seen too many pics of installations on the rvj, what is the norm? do they want lots of air forced in or do they prefer a large "airbox" type installation?
have run about 5 liters of 32: 1 through it and it keeps getting stronger on the ground but not so good in the air.


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RE: New ZDZ-80 - 12/24/2007 4:12:17 PM   
dptp9lf


 

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Gus...
I'm at about 4000' ASL so my settings wouldn't help you much but if you do your needle settings as per RCS website (while running), it should be fine. If you suspect turbulence in the engine box, you may want to look at a filter on the carb inlet or running a hose from the diaphragm plate back into the fuse a bit.
If it's quite hot outside you should probably run the 32:1 break-in but I think that's too much oil where I'm at in Canada as it's not very hot here. I'm going to start running 40:1 as long as the air is cool. I still have mine on a test stand so not sure how it'll do in the air but it has plenty of air around it so I don't have airflow issues as i would in a cowl.
Cheers,



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RE: New ZDZ-80 - 12/29/2007 1:00:02 PM   
Gus155


 

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What batts are you guys using on the ignition? Think i am having some probs that are due to a bum ign pack, think a 1700mah 4cell nicd is ok?


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RE: New ZDZ-80 - 12/29/2007 5:14:56 PM   
dptp9lf


 

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Gus
I'm using a 1100mah 4.8v nicad on the test stand and will be using a 2600 mah 7.2v lipo in the airframe. My nicad works fine on the test stand but runs down fairly quickly.
I would use more than what you're using when flying just to be safe.
Cheers,
Lyle

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RE: New ZDZ-80 - 12/29/2007 8:03:27 PM   
Gus155


 

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thanks Lyle,

think i will try a 2cell lipo, or 6 cell nicd or nimh. the 1700 is ok, but only good for afew minutes.
just interested to hear what others are using.
must say the 5-5-1 method of starting is 99% flawless.
today, filled up, 5-5 and was purring on the first flip.
put the cowl on, and it started fist flip about 30min later, had a flight.
filled up, and another 30 min later it started first flip. was ok for about 5 min, then it just bogged down, suspect the ign bat.


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RE: New ZDZ-80 - 12/30/2007 11:18:54 AM   
airwayman


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: Gus155

thanks Lyle,

think i will try a 2cell lipo, or 6 cell nicd or nimh. the 1700 is ok, but only good for afew minutes.
filled up, and another 30 min later it started first flip. was ok for about 5 min, then it just bogged down, suspect the ign bat.


You say you can only run your engine for a few minutes on a 1700 Mah pack? You should be able to fly several flights on a fully charged 1700 Mah battery. Maybe your problem is ignition battery but when you mention "bogging down" that could be a sign the engine is getting too hot. The Super 80 (RV-J) is a power house and as such needs adequate cooling. The operating temperature of the engine is effected by many things such as the weight of the plane (heavy plane takes more power), the shape of the cowl and how the engine is mounted, the entry and exit air passages, your style of flying (high alpha/hovering results in more heat build up than cruising) and ambient temperatures where you're flying in. The two things I see the most are inadequate or no baffling to direct the air over the cylinder(s) and insufficient exit air ducting. This isn't just something nice to do, it's mandatory or you may ruin the engine. I have a pyrometer, and at the request of several other flyers, I've tested their engine temps just after landing. In several cases I found inadequate cooling resulted in an operating temperature that was OVER 150 degrees (F) above the recommended operating temperature for the engine. I found this not once but several times. The big round cowls on the Yaks and Sukhois look like they would allow plenty of air to enter the cowl, but if the exit air holes aren't adequate the air just packs in the cowl and can't cool the engine. By the way, I do run the two cell li-ion packs (2600 Mah) on ignition, without a regulator, and it works great. Good luck, Airwayman

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RE: New ZDZ-80 - 12/30/2007 12:46:55 PM   
Gus155


 

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From: Cape TownCape Town, SOUTH AFRICA
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quote:

ORIGINAL: airwayman


quote:

ORIGINAL: Gus155

thanks Lyle,

think i will try a 2cell lipo, or 6 cell nicd or nimh. the 1700 is ok, but only good for afew minutes.
filled up, and another 30 min later it started first flip. was ok for about 5 min, then it just bogged down, suspect the ign bat.


You say you can only run your engine for a few minutes on a 1700 Mah pack? You should be able to fly several flights on a fully charged 1700 Mah battery. Maybe your problem is ignition battery but when you mention "bogging down" that could be a sign the engine is getting too hot. The Super 80 (RV-J) is a power house and as such needs adequate cooling. The operating temperature of the engine is effected by many things such as the weight of the plane (heavy plane takes more power), the shape of the cowl and how the engine is mounted, the entry and exit air passages, your style of flying (high alpha/hovering results in more heat build up than cruising) and ambient temperatures where you're flying in. The two things I see the most are inadequate or no baffling to direct the air over the cylinder(s) and insufficient exit air ducting. This isn't just something nice to do, it's mandatory or you may ruin the engine. I have a pyrometer, and at the request of several other flyers, I've tested their engine temps just after landing. In several cases I found inadequate cooling resulted in an operating temperature that was OVER 150 degrees (F) above the recommended operating temperature for the engine. I found this not once but several times. The big round cowls on the Yaks and Sukhois look like they would allow plenty of air to enter the cowl, but if the exit air holes aren't adequate the air just packs in the cowl and can't cool the engine. By the way, I do run the two cell li-ion packs (2600 Mah) on ignition, without a regulator, and it works great. Good luck, Airwayman


The motor is cool to touch after a flight. its in a H9 Sukhoi, with Bisson Pitts Muffler and has most of the bottom of the cowl is cut away.


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