Posts: 60
Joined: 8/8/2005 From: Charlotte, NC, USA Status: offline
I'm new to ZDZs. My new "blue" 80 arrived yesterday. Help me out, what size hole do I need to cut in the firewall to get the carb (Walbro) inside? This carb has a third needle that sticks way out....looks like an idle stop setting screw. If so, do you use that screw or take it out? Also the fuel inlet tubing sticks out pretty far. Shouldn't be a problem to snake it through the right side hole but I want to buy a hole saw and get after it. I can see, just by looking that it might be possible to make a huge mistake here. BTW, I also ordered a new "black" 80 which RCS said they should have by end of Sept.
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Forward is down, back is up and further back is....down?
I'm new to ZDZs. My new "blue" 80 arrived yesterday. Help me out, what size hole do I need to cut in the firewall to get the carb (Walbro) inside? This carb has a third needle that sticks way out....looks like an idle stop setting screw. If so, do you use that screw or take it out? Also the fuel inlet tubing sticks out pretty far. Shouldn't be a problem to snake it through the right side hole but I want to buy a hole saw and get after it. I can see, just by looking that it might be possible to make a huge mistake here. BTW, I also ordered a new "black" 80 which RCS said they should have by end of Sept.
But why have to put a hole to start with, and stick the carb inside, why not simply leave the carb away from the firewall.
Posts: 1402
Joined: 1/15/2005 From: San Antonio,
TX, USA Status: offline
Hi Aieway, Use some folder stock or card board to make a template, complete with mounting holes. This will allow you to trace the exact position on the fire wall. Allow for right thrust offset and down thrust as required. Tape the fire wall with masking tape which will be easy to mark and can be removed if you mess up. Most rear carb installations are done with metal standoffs to allow the engine to reach the end of the cowl. If you have a short cowl or box structure allowing the carb is convenent. The idle stop screw can be removed allowing the throttle trim to shut off the engine. The servo will hold the correct idle position. Make sure that the engine doesn't quit when you turn off the transmitter. Unless you you want this when signal is lost.
Posts: 716
Joined: 11/14/2002 From: Hastings,
MN, USA Status: offline
First - remove the carb to get the mounting hole locations. two - figure out the length of stand offs needed for the plane the engine is going on. third - now use a drill, jig saw, rotary drum sanders, ect. to cut/carve the carb hole in the firewall/engine box as needed. forth - yes, remove the idle screw, disconnect the throttle and choke springs, do not remove them though.
Posts: 2282
Joined: 1/1/2002 From: Demorestville,
ON, CANADA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: airwayman
I'm new to ZDZs. My new "blue" 80 arrived yesterday. Help me out, what size hole do I need to cut in the firewall to get the carb (Walbro) inside? This carb has a third needle that sticks way out....looks like an idle stop setting screw. If so, do you use that screw or take it out? Also the fuel inlet tubing sticks out pretty far. Shouldn't be a problem to snake it through the right side hole but I want to buy a hole saw and get after it. I can see, just by looking that it might be possible to make a huge mistake here. BTW, I also ordered a new "black" 80 which RCS said they should have by end of Sept.
But why have to put a hole to start with, and stick the carb inside, why not simply leave the carb away from the firewall.
Roger
I've seen that motor before
< Message edited by sillyness -- 9/17/2005 10:11:10 PM >
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Posts: 60
Joined: 8/8/2005 From: Charlotte, NC, USA Status: offline
Thanks to all that replied. I am putting the "blue" ZDZ 80 on a 33% Laser 200 to replace an Eagle 4.2. I do not need to use any standoffs as the length from the ZDZ engine mount to clear the cowl is perfect. The carb will have to be completely inside the engine box. I will remove the idle set screw and unhook the springs as recommended.
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Forward is down, back is up and further back is....down?
Is Menz 27x10 too heavy to turn between 6500-7000RPM on cannister? The 26x10 Mezlick is back order but i could order a Biela 26x10. Anyone has tried them before?
Posts: 9920
Joined: 12/12/2001 From: slc, UT, USA Status: offline
I also tried the MenzS27x10-on the current model -it did very well with it - tho not as good as DA100 by about 200 rpm as I remember. After trying various props on both -it became obvious ,here at our elevation ,this prop simply did not put either of these engines into their best power bands. The new ZM26x12 is an awfully good prop - the shape really fooled me -it looked like it would be another MenzS27x10 --effectively. When I ran the MenzS 27x10 on my lightweight EXTRA (scratch built ) it would "rip" extremely easily but overall performance was not exciting . This new ZM 26x12 runs faster all around, pulls harder and yet does not have that irksome blatt of the MenzS. Iwill get a 28x10 Mejzlic-just to see how well that blade works here maybe I can swap one of my Mejzlic 26x10 's for one and pernhaps throw in a a bag of M&M's
Posts: 1818
Joined: 7/19/2002 From: gainesville, TX, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: dick Hanson
Iwill get a 28x10 Mejzlic-just to see how well that blade works here maybe I can swap one of my Mejzlic 26x10 's for one and pernhaps throw in a a bag of M&M's
Can't wait to see the specks and performance of that prop..Thanks for all the info you provided!
I have a couple of quextions on the switch/rpm thing..
Can you charge through the rpm port?
why does it show the switch pluged into the receiver?
I would plan to run lithium 2 cell, switch, regulator, ignition in that order. can i do this?
what is the cost of the rpm meter?
is there a link to info on this switch and rpm meter?
Just flew in an IMAc in FT worth...Man I can't wait to build my next plane cirrently flying a WildHare 28% with a BME 50. Planning to put this new engine in a 33% wildhare extra 260..
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RE: New ZDZ-80 - 
