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RE: Club FOX! - 10/5/2012 12:08 AM   
hsukaria


 

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A fellow at the club was having engine trouble with the engne quitting a short tme after startnig it. It turned out that the high speed needle was rubbing against his fiberglass cowl and slowly leaning it out. Most likely that is not what you have since you've had this engine in 5 different planes. I would also check that all the engine bolts are torqued tight and not loose. Check that there are no leaks around the carb base (gasket) and around the HSN.

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RE: Club FOX! - 10/5/2012 12:29 AM   
roy3785



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Hi thankyou both for you replies, in 1976 when i got the engine it was put in a aerobatic model on its side with pipe when i got the problem i tried   plugs all fox then fuel pressure system.i lost this plane due to engine cut. it has since been in others just to try it . with engine upright with pipe and no pipe fuel pressure and not.if you have it running on the ground you can put it at any angle you like.shake it no problem.when it flys if it gets over the first few seconds it will do any angle no problem.power on and off it has no problem.I changed the carb of same type no change.tank has been close as i could get it.same hight as needle high and low to needle. i put a fox 40 in 1 plane to see if that got the problem but it was fine.when it continues to run it goes very well.


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RE: Club FOX! - 10/5/2012 12:40 AM   
carddfann


 

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Yea, we have a jerk in our club too and another who mouths off about radios once in while. People like that try to bully or pressure others into using what they use as if you must submit and conform. Kind of reminds me of that cable or satellite commercial where the neighbors come over to the new resident and say "We all bundle" in a tranced voice when talking about bundling services and someone dares to break rank and be different. I've always marched to my own drum, said what needs to be said, and to hell with ya if you don't like it. I'll use what equipment I damn well please and the others can keep their pie hole shut or go to hell. I'm one of only a few that dare use Airtronics. How dare I use something besides Futaba? We'll, I've owned Airtronics or Sanwa and Futaba over the years and never had a bit of trouble with any of them. They are all good and I'm open minded about either brand. I happen to like my current Airtronics because I personally (just me) think they are childs play to program - very intuitive. As far as my Foxes go, I'm happy with them. They work for me and I have the satisfaction of buying something US made even though my contribution isn't going to make a difference whether Fox survives or not. Its just a few less bucks going overseas. That's my stump speech for tonight.

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RE: Club FOX! - 10/5/2012 12:57 AM   
carddfann


 

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The fact that it acts up in 5 different planes and you successfully used a Fox 40 in one of them makes this a challenging problem to me. It really makes it seem like its the engine. Seems like you have already tried these suggestions or checked them out. Few things are as frustrating as loosing a plane over something that's not your fault like interference, batteries, or other things. I hate to say it but to me this seems to be a case where a person needs to see the engine and go over it, but you're across the pond. I still have faith that one of the other guys on here can help who has more knowledge than I do. I used to have an old 45 from that time period. I'm not sure how old it was but it had the wart on the side. I got it in a blind trade through World Engines in the early 80's. I had it in a scat cat 500 (pylon or quickie type racer - I forget) and that beat up thing still ran great. It was my first Fox RC. Up to then, my Foxes were CL. I eventually sold it with all my stuff when I temporarily got out a while.

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RE: Club FOX! - 10/5/2012 4:03 AM   
1QwkSport2.5r



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I quit following this thread for quite some time, but recently thought of something. I have a question for the guys that have a relatively current model Fox .40 small case engine with iron piston and steel liner. I'd like to know if anyone has measurements or could get measurements of the OD of the liner, the ID of the liner/bore, and the stroke. (Insert dead horse beat-down comment here...)

I've had an idea and I want to confirm or bust... Thanks.


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RE: Club FOX! - 10/5/2012 3:56 PM   
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Is it blowing plugs when it quits?  Fox has a new colder plug the #8.  Have you tried that> 



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RE: Club FOX! - 10/5/2012 4:36 PM   
mytemotors


 

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Hi Roy,
Jack Lipka here, I read of your problem with the engine dying. I had a similar problem with an O.S. .91 FX last summer. Takeoff, make one or two circuits and it would quit. I tried everything everyone has suggested. Tried the engine on a different airplane and got the same result. I bought a new engine and have not had any problems.
I did fix the problem wit the .91. It seems the front crankshaft bearing seal was bad. Installed a new bearing and problem solved. Just a thought, as I am not currently a FOX user, so I am not fimilar with their setup.

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RE: Club FOX! - 10/5/2012 7:57 PM   
aspeed


 

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Usually a piped motor has to be quite rich on the top end.  It is a bit more trouble than a muffler.  It sounds like there isn't enough compression to keep it lit. Maybe take out a shim and see if that helps.  If you blow plugs then you went too far.  You could try more shims but I don't think that is the direction.  Just another variable to try, oh and keep it close over the field in case of flameouts ;-)

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RE: Club FOX! - 10/5/2012 8:43 PM   
roy3785



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Thanks all, it does not blow the plug all i need to do to restart is put glow clip on and flick prop do not need a starter.only cuts within first few seconds after take off if it continues it will run the tank dry. this is the same with pipe or muffler fuel pressure system or not.I am thinking air leak from crank as mytemotors mentioned.I have not tried the new fox plug i need to put in something i do not mind breaking as its normaly not above 10 feet high.This engine has about 3 hours run time from new.


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RE: Club FOX! - 10/5/2012 9:02 PM   
hsukaria


 

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There was a discussion in this thread some time ago about air leaks around the front bearing. The Fox engines don't use sealed front bearings but have a method to let the oil reach the front bearing. Seeing that you have an older Fox engine, those were typically non-sealed front bearings in those days. But the oil channel in the crankcase to the front bearing might be letting too much air to leak in. That is all I know about that, others here have a good knowledge about it. You might also want to look back a year or two in this thread to find that discussion. Sorry that might be a lot of reading, but it is all informative.

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RE: Club FOX! - 10/5/2012 9:51 PM   
earlwb


 

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I cannot really think of anything that could explain this problem where the engine cuts out a few seconds after take off, or if it gets through that then it runs fine for the rest of the flight.  If it was a leak through the front bearing, it would manifest itself and stay that way for the whole time them after the engine warmed up. It does it with and without a tuned pipe or using a muffler. It doesn't blow glow plugs either. So that makes it a interesting mystery.

The only thought I have at the moment is that the engine produces a momentary slug of fuel that quenches the glow plug just as the engine is unwinding on take off. A idle bar glow plug might cure the problem. It could still be a mixture issue too. But hard to say if one isn't there to see it, etc. One other thought is many years ago, I used to use a type of on-board glow ignitor system. This unit would be left on for the entire flight, as it could sense the current flow through the glow plug and adjust itself so the plug wouldn't burn out. I haven't seen that exact type of on board glow ignitor since the early 1990's though. I don't know if other ones work like that either.  Anyway it was handy at the time for a few troublesome engines that I had been using then. But in this case it would keep the glow plug from being quenched out by a slug of fuel hitting in at that critical RPM change point on takeoffs.

We used to see this quenching effect with Fox 1.20 twin engines many years ago with the left cylinder turning off as you throttled the engine don or up. Also if someone setup a .60 engine with a left facing exhaust and sometimes with .60 engines setup for rear exhaust too. For the Fox 1.20 twin some folks flipped the cylinder base gasket over so it blocked the transfer port leaving only the two bypass ports open, and that solved the problem on the twin engines. It did reduce the power a little, but at the time the Fox 1.20 was about the biggest glow engine one could get then, so the power loss was neglible.




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RE: Club FOX! - 10/5/2012 10:43 PM   
roy3785



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I think your idea of onboard glow is a good one and is worth trying,i will check them out. Although it would only be a bandage covering the problem at least i will be moving in the right direction. If this works i will ring fox about one of there new carbs(.sounds like a good excuse to get one of there new carbs.)


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RE: Club FOX! - 10/5/2012 10:51 PM   
earlwb


 

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I myself have bought like 5 or 6 of the new carbs to use on my engines. I really like them a lot.



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RE: Club FOX! - 10/5/2012 11:25 PM   
fujiman


 

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1 more thing to think about with this problem and it's not to say this is actually the answer, because you installed another eng. w/ good results. But here goes, is the pick clunk too far at the back of the fuel tank and when you firewall the eng. for take off the fuel surge to the back of the tank ''forces'' or pressurizes the fuel line to the carb. and is pressurizing the fuel delivery to the eng. Then if you make it thru take off and burn off some fuel the problem seems to go away also the eng. you put in the plan was less sensitive to this problem. 1 more thing, check the position of the spray bar, it mite have turned at bit and fuel draw could be effected under hi demand. how is the transition from idle the top end full throttle? just some of my thots.

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RE: Club FOX! - 10/5/2012 11:31 PM   
roy3785



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Glow driver.       This sounds like what you are talking about.

AGS-1 and AGS-2

   If you want total reliability from your glow engine, then you need an AGS on-board glow driver. 

The AGS Glowswitch is still the only glow driver that monitors the glow temperature and heats the glow-plug only when necessary so only a small (light weight) support battery is needed and there is no risk of damage to the plug.  Unlike other glow drivers, the AGS supports the glow even at high throttle settings so, for example, an aborted approach need present no problems; you just open up the throttle and the engine responds as desired. 

The Advanced Glowswitch (AGS) has all the features of the well known original Intelligent on-board Glowswitch (IG), but in addition it:

Ø       Automatically adjusts to any support battery voltage from 1.2V to 4.2V.

Ø       Works with a receiver voltage of up to 7.2V.

Ø       Is suitable for all battery types including LiPo, LiFe, Lead-acid and NiMH.

Ø       Needs no Y-lead connection.

Ø       Optionally fully automatic or transmitter controlled.

Ø       Has remote ultra-bright, daylight viewing, indicator LEDs connected with mini screw terminals.

Ø       Has a remote adjustment panel also connected with mini-screw terminals.

Ø       Automatically compensates for battery voltage fall-off in use.

Ø       Has simple two-terminal plug connections (three terminals for the twin version).

Ø       Still has the Start-Up Boost feature.

The LED(s) tell you when the AGS is testing the glow and when it is boosting it. They will also give you information about your glow and receiver batteries – indicating the type of battery it has detected and whether or not the battery is getting low.  

The AGS turns off when the Rx is switched off, so you can leave everything permanently connected, ready for starting and the next flight.

 

Installation is easy.  Just connect the support battery and the glow plug to the AGS and plug the AGS into the Rx.  Full instructions are provided with each unit and in the Advanced Handbook.



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RE: Club FOX! - 10/5/2012 11:45 PM   
fujiman


 

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sound like a have to have item. mite pick me up one, do you have their web link????

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RE: Club FOX! - 10/6/2012 12:15 AM   
roy3785



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site for onboard glow,Not sure if i am allowed to put this on ,if not i will take it off.www.southhertsmodels.co.uk/IGs.htm   


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RE: Club FOX! - 10/6/2012 1:07 AM   
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quote:

ORIGINAL: mytemotors

Hi Roy,
Jack Lipka here, I read of your problem with the engine dying. I had a similar problem with an O.S. .91 FX last summer. Takeoff, make one or two circuits and it would quit. I tried everything everyone has suggested. Tried the engine on a different airplane and got the same result. I bought a new engine and have not had any problems.
I did fix the problem wit the .91. It seems the front crankshaft bearing seal was bad. Installed a new bearing and problem solved. Just a thought, as I am not currently a FOX user, so I am not fimilar with their setup.


Yes I have had the same thing with various motors , its just loss the crankcase compression due to loosing  pressure between the shaft and case , happens a lot,

last motor I machined up a plug for the case then loctited it in and machined the case to shaft fit with a 1 thou clearance

, tuned perfect after that , before it was just quitting here and there and not responding to the needle well ,

The message is check your crankcase to shaft clearance ,  

Its a fine line between blowing a little fuel up to the front bearing and loosing crankase pressure- and also your tune,

the clearance has to be just right  



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RE: Club FOX! - 10/6/2012 2:26 AM   
earlwb


 

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That AGS glow plug driver is it for sure. They used to sell one like that here many years ago. I am glad to see someone still does.



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RE: Club FOX! - 10/6/2012 3:58 AM   
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Before installing the onboard glow, give a 4-stroke plug a try. They remain much hotter and are the only ones I use when running 2-strokes inverted. In that position the plug is a lot more likely to be quenched with fuel/oil and the 4-stroke plugs resist this much better.

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RE: Club FOX! - 10/6/2012 4:46 AM   
koastrc


 

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Got a FOX question. Has any of you heard or seen a FOX Rocket? A friend has one and I do not recall ever seeing one,
Thanks.

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RE: Club FOX! - 10/6/2012 2:28 PM   
earlwb


 

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In 1959 Fox introduced a low cost range of model engines called the "Rocket". The engines were a .35 displacement size. Fox continued to make the engines up until 1962 when the crankcase design was changed.  The engines had a little smaller intake venturi than the combat engines and the venturi wasn't removable either.  It basically looked like a first or second model combat .35 engine.  The Series three Combat .35 engine also had the rocket on the side too.  Depending on which class of combat competition you were in, the venturi insert was used or removed. If you removed the insert, then you had to provide pressure to force fuel into the engine.

Now then they also called the Fox .09 a "Rocket .09" engine too.  It had a rear intake and something of a more radical design shape to it. But it was a nice running beginner type of engine.






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RE: Club FOX! - 10/9/2012 3:27 PM   
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In regards to the engine flame-out problem at takeoff; have you tried running the engine extremely rich (just enough power to get it off the ground) to see if it will still quit on takeoff? I'm wondering if it is leaning out just enough with a load on the engine to kill it every now and then.

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RE: Club FOX! - 10/10/2012 7:10 PM   
hsukaria


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: earlwb

I myself have bought like 5 or 6 of the new carbs to use on my engines. I really like them a lot.



Did Fox Manuf. give you a bulk discount for buying so many at one time? These are $40-50 each.

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RE: Club FOX! - 10/10/2012 7:43 PM   
earlwb


 

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No discounts or anything. I bought the carbs over a long period of time. One or two at a time. Usually when I ordered some other stuff.
Sorry no factory sponsorships for me. I wish.

Of course the new Fox carb works good on other brands of engines too.





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