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RE: Club FOX! - 12/22/2012 11:14 PM   
hsukaria


 

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ORIGINAL: SRQFlyer

Cougar,
I have one in my hand - 1/4x28x1/2'' NIP (old stock). PM me your address and it's yours for Christmas.
Regards,
Jim

Well! If you want to be Santa, I have this whole list of things I need...

Actually, I have a similar need to space out the spinner backplate 1/8 inch. But I was worried about putting a spacer between the engine and spinner backplate. Does anybody know how to handle that? As it is, the spinner backplate rubs against the engine cowl. I bought this plane used and the engine mount holes came predrilled for some other engine.

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RE: Club FOX! - 12/22/2012 11:54 PM   
Cougar429


 

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Status: offline 		Sent. Thanks a lot.

hsukaria, in cases like yours I find it a lot easier simply to replace the engine mount. You retain the full strength and unless other openings don't restrict engine shift this may be the best option.

Another thing I've found is the plastic spinners usually are countersunk, meaning the thrust washer is recessed forward into the spinner back plate. Alloy spinners are usually flush so give you a bit of leeway.

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RE: Club FOX! - 12/23/2012 12:15 AM   
SRQFlyer



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Status: offline 		Santa here -
Try a piece of thick leather as a spacer. An added bonus is that the prop will never slip!
Happy Holidays!
Jim

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RE: Club FOX! - 12/23/2012 4:23 AM   
hsukaria


 

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Status: offline 		I am using an aluminum spinner, so, the backplate is flat. I thought about adding a plywood piece between the firewall and the engine mount. But that is a lot more work than a piece of leather. I now have an extra spinner backplate between the engine and the spinner backplate. But have not run the engine with that setup fearing that it will slip and loose up during flight.

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RE: Club FOX! - 12/23/2012 5:00 AM   
Cougar429


 

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Status: offline 		I found the original mount on Rare Bear was far too flexible. Although it kept quite a bit of the engine pulses out of the airframe, it allowed so much movement throttle was affected. The only real option with what I had available was to fab a spacer such as hsukaria mentioned. In this case the engine ended up in the same place so there was no need to redo the cowl. Just the mount was altered, but the theory should be the same.

Here are pics of the original mount and the new setup. In this case I turned the spacer out of a spare block of 1/2" Delrin.

I'm always reluctant to add anything other than a spinner backplate between the prop and drive washer as that is the fixed surface the prop aligns to. Personally, although I agree the leather would provide a good power path to transfer output to the prop, IMO working on the assumption the center hole will keep the prop true is asking too much. Any hard material could damage the legacy drive face and not provide good contact. Perhaps soft alloy, composite or even a plastic washer would be better? As long as the crush is uniform it should work.

I would also hope there are at least two threads showing beyond the front of the prop nut, from what I remember what we consider "Safety" in maintenance, (AC4313). Been a while. I would have to pull the book out to confirm.



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RE: Club FOX! - 12/23/2012 4:21 PM   
hsukaria


 

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Status: offline 		Well, flying season is over in these parts. So, I will have some time to fix this by redoing the engine mount. It's better to make sure I got it 100% right now in preparation for flying season. I will try a spacer between firewall and engine mount or new mount.

Nice engine by the way.

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RE: Club FOX! - 12/28/2012 10:38 AM   
koastrc


 

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Status: offline 		This is the only forum I follow. I do not have a FOX in my hanger, but have owned many. Lost them all in Katrina. I enjoy this section so much. Not only is it full of good tech insight , but some real nice people. I figured I knew about as much as anyone about FOX engines. You folks have taught me I still have much to learn. Happy New Year and keep the post coming.

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RE: Club FOX! - 12/28/2012 2:16 PM   
Cougar429


 

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Status: offline 		I would imagine a "Welcome" is in order. Hopefully your hangar will be infested with Foxes again soon.

This confirms a tenet I live by, basically that if you do not learn something new every day, or take knowledge with you without imparting it to others is a waste of effort, ("taking up room in the food chain" is my more colloquial term).

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RE: Club FOX! - 12/28/2012 3:59 PM   
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ORIGINAL: hsukaria
Well, flying season is over in these parts. So, I will have some time to fix this by redoing the engine mount. It's better to make sure I got it 100% right now in preparation for flying season. I will try a spacer between firewall and engine mount or new mount.



I don't know, I still see lots of folks flying in the winter. Some sea plane like aircraft do well for taking off and landing in the snow too.
Then there are the guys with ski's on their planes as well.  Besides there is always the little hand launch planes also.
I remember using a large transmitter cover to help keep my hands a little warmer in the past. I have had to use a heat shrink tubing gun to warm up engines before.





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RE: Club FOX! - 12/28/2012 4:28 PM   
aspeed


 

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Status: offline 		Indoor flying is better.  Lots of micro planes to choose from.  Driving to Florida or Texas to fly is good too.

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RE: Club FOX! - 12/28/2012 4:34 PM   
Cougar429


 

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Status: offline 		Other than the float equipped craft, these are my most versatile. The Seamaster 40 in the foreground sported a Fox 50 for over 20 years.

All can fly from water, snow or land, (with the gear reinstalled) while the Polaris is RTF from any surface as soon as the battery is connected.



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RE: Club FOX! - 12/28/2012 6:32 PM   
aspeed


 

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Status: offline 		My seamaster has a ST .51. I should get it going. I have a couple of Aquastars, one was brushed electric with nicads and another was a Norvel .049. Neither one would take off water.

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RE: Club FOX! - 1/5/2013 5:38 AM   
hsukaria


 

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ORIGINAL: earlwb

quote:

ORIGINAL: hsukaria
Well, flying season is over in these parts. So, I will have some time to fix this by redoing the engine mount. It's better to make sure I got it 100% right now in preparation for flying season. I will try a spacer between firewall and engine mount or new mount.



I don't know, I still see lots of folks flying in the winter. Some sea plane like aircraft do well for taking off and landing in the snow too.
Then there are the guys with ski's on their planes as well.  Besides there is always the little hand launch planes also.
I remember using a large transmitter cover to help keep my hands a little warmer in the past. I have had to use a heat shrink tubing gun to warm up engines before.





If it were dry snow, I can put skis or floats on my Sig Rascal 40. I will have to work out the logistics of warmer clothes and transmitter cover. The plane has plenty of power for floats or skis.


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RE: Club FOX! - 1/5/2013 3:42 PM   
aspeed


 

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Status: offline 		I think skis take less power than wheels.  The old Zippo type fluid is good for priming in cold weather.  I think a couple of spare batteries that are warm and flying electric is the best for winter flying without a heated clubhouse.  It is just too hard to position tubing for fueling and putting in screws etc when it is real cold.  A trip to Florida or indoor flying is the best solution IMHO.

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RE: Club FOX! - 1/22/2013 6:34 AM   
50+AirYears


 

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Status: offline 		Maybe the thing I like best about flying in the winter here on the Sunny South Shore of Lake Erie is not having to contend for flight stations and frequency clips. Haven't missed a month flying since 1990.
Fox engines seem to not notice the cold. One fine February day, I got in a few flights with my Scnuerle .25 while other club members were going nuts trying to keep their ST and OS running.
A couple years ago, I got a Flite Streak ARF at a low price. I put out a couple posts on CL sites about which engine I should use on it, one of my Veco, Johnson, or Fox .35s, or my Fox .25 Schnuerles. Nearly all of the respondents said to get an LA .25, everything else I named was too hot for the fuse.

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RE: Club FOX! - 1/22/2013 2:39 PM   
aspeed


 

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Status: offline 		We used to race the Fox .35 motors in Flight Streak type planes, and then the rules were changed to only allow the LA .25, which meant I was stuck with a bunch of Fox .35's.  Nevertheless, the LA .25 is actually faster than the old Foxes, but they shake and vibrate much less so it is easier on the fuselage.  I am on the north shore of the same lake pretty much, it is pretty windy most of the time here for comfortable winter flying.  I think the Fox has a tamer bowl type head with a smaller squish band and lower compression to make it start better and take bigger props.(and save on plug elements)  At least on my .15 schneurle motor.  I made a higher compression head for it and it went a fair bit faster, but changed the characteristics that foxes are 'loved' for.

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RE: Club FOX! - 1/23/2013 4:21 AM   
50+AirYears


 

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Status: offline 		I remember a couple CL Combat columns in the old Model Builder magazines.
One, flyers could buy a Fox .15 Schnuerle BB for about $35, or a Nelson for $150 for a few hundred more RPM.
Second one, the writer stated he'd practice using Fox Schnuerle 40s, and then change to a Nelson .36 for competition. Planes flew about the same.
I also remember at a February Chili fly-in at the old CL field, guy with a high tech Slow Combat plane. "That D*** Fox Combat Special. I needed two flips to get it running !" (About 10 degrees F)

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RE: Club FOX! - 1/23/2013 6:31 AM   
Sport_Pilot



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ORIGINAL: Cougar429

Sent. Thanks a lot.

hsukaria, in cases like yours I find it a lot easier simply to replace the engine mount. You retain the full strength and unless other openings don't restrict engine shift this may be the best option.

Another thing I've found is the plastic spinners usually are countersunk, meaning the thrust washer is recessed forward into the spinner back plate. Alloy spinners are usually flush so give you a bit of leeway.



Does it really matter?  If they extended the shaft a foot, some builders will still manage to install the cowl where it rubs the back of the spinner.

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RE: Club FOX! - 1/23/2013 2:45 PM   
hsukaria


 

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ORIGINAL: Sport_Pilot


quote:

ORIGINAL: Cougar429

Sent. Thanks a lot.

hsukaria, in cases like yours I find it a lot easier simply to replace the engine mount. You retain the full strength and unless other openings don't restrict engine shift this may be the best option.

Another thing I've found is the plastic spinners usually are countersunk, meaning the thrust washer is recessed forward into the spinner back plate. Alloy spinners are usually flush so give you a bit of leeway.



Does it really matter?  If they extended the shaft a foot, some builders will still manage to install the cowl where it rubs the back of the spinner.

True,
In the case of my plane, the cowl would have to be ripped up really bad if I move the engine forward even 1/8 inch. So, an extension of only 1/8 inch is all I need. I've seen the opposite in many planes, the gap between the spinner and cowl is vast. That looks goofy.

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RE: Club FOX! - 1/23/2013 4:43 PM   
earlwb


 

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Status: offline 		Fox sells the 1/2 inch and 3/4 inch propeller extensions that work really well too. That is usually what folks use to mount the engine inside of a cowl on some models. For 1/8 of a inch one could likely find that some spinners without a recess work Ok in that case. But using a wide thin washer would likely work too.

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RE: Club FOX! - 1/23/2013 5:05 PM   
hsukaria


 

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Status: offline 		I will be trying a big washer or a backplate of a smaller spinner begween the prop driver and the spinner backplate. I hope that gives enough friction.

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RE: Club FOX! - 2/5/2013 9:26 PM   
LaRebel24



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Status: offline 		Hi.....Was wondering if anyone knows if the Flight Line Solutions website is still up and running and if so what is the site address. Any info on this matter would be appreciated..

Thanks
Andrew



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RE: Club FOX! - 2/5/2013 11:15 PM   
earlwb


 

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Hi.....Was wondering if anyone knows if the Flight Line Solutions website is still up and running and if so what is the site address. Any info on this matter would be appreciated..

Thanks
Andrew





It was saved and archived here now http://members.shaw.ca/flitelinesolutions/manuals.html



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RE: Club FOX! - 2/6/2013 7:57 PM   
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Status: offline 		Thanks for the info.

Andrew

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RE: Club FOX! - 3/9/2013 11:56 PM   
Cougar429


 

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Status: offline 		Thought I would relay some good news. I finally sent in the Eagle IV 60 and was given the report Thursday. I posted pics of this one a while ago, but thought it may be helpful with a short review.

After only a few tankfuls it killed two plugs in a row so I pulled the head and found the entire back of the piston missing down to the ring. I thought it was perhaps the 15% fuel and fabbed some new buttons to try on the second identical engine. Found the behavior a bit dicey as it was early in break in. However, the lowest comp button seemed to generate the best numbers and behavior. Again, that will need to be tentative until it settles in.

It seems the piston was faulty as they could tell the motor had low time. Under warranty it now sports a new piston and ring and run in to set the carb. Was told my fuel should be fine, but they installed the new head button. Will be interesting to compare it to my home grown versions.

Called Friday to figure out how to get it home and found they are closed. Second US manufacturer I called within the last week to find that is their normal schedule. Interesting.

Will find out Monday if postage will be the best option or to have them bring it to Toledo and pick it up there. Great product and service and they stand behind what they make. Rarer these days.

< Message edited by Cougar429 -- 3/10/2013 3:36 PM >

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