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Smokin USS - 9/13/2005 3:59:07 PM   
Omaha_RC_Flyer



Posts: 489
Joined: 3/7/2004
From: Omaha, NE, USA
Status: offline 		Here are a few shots of my Smokin USS. I followed the How to article by MinnFlyer Total cost about $30.00! I'm using a windshield washer fluid pump, and MDW Super Dri smoke oil. I was able to get some video of it with my standard 8mm Camcorder. Once I get the video transferred to a CD/DVD, I'll try to post it.

Later,
Omaha

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< Message edited by Omaha_RC_Flyer -- 9/13/2005 4:00:31 PM >

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RE: Smokin USS - 9/14/2005 3:05:46 AM   
acam37



Posts: 437
Joined: 1/12/2004
From: lufkin, TX, USA
Status: offline 		I think smoke is awesome. When you post the video can you show us the interior layout? Also I would really like to see that coro field box that is in the 3rd pic.

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RE: Smokin USS - 9/14/2005 6:17:45 AM   
Omaha_RC_Flyer



Posts: 489
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Status: offline 		Got you covered on the Coro field box. See the thread I started on it. You may want to play around with the measurements to get the size you would like. I'll try to get a photo of the interior layout posted for you later on.


Later,
Omaha

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RE: Smokin USS - 9/14/2005 8:57:12 PM   
Omaha_RC_Flyer



Posts: 489
Joined: 3/7/2004
From: Omaha, NE, USA
Status: offline 		Acam,

Attached are a few photos of my smoke system layout. I have to use hemostats to clamp the line on the outside of the fuse (muffler line) when I fill the tank or part of the oil will exit out through the pump to the muffler line, which in turn, wastes oil. Once clamped, the oil will only go so far, while the remainder of the oil fills the tank, until it empties out the vent line.

The smoke pump is powered by a 4.8 volt pack, while the RX is powered by a 6.0 volt pack. If you use a windshield washer pump, make sure to run a tank full of oil through it before you install it, using a 12 Volt power source. Just pump it back through the vent line like a closed loop system. It really gets everything seated and working, before dropping the power to the lower 4.8 volt pack.


Hope this helps,
Omaha

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< Message edited by Omaha_RC_Flyer -- 9/14/2005 9:28:30 PM >

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RE: Smokin USS - 9/14/2005 9:10:55 PM   
Omaha_RC_Flyer



Posts: 489
Joined: 3/7/2004
From: Omaha, NE, USA
Status: offline 		A few more photos!

Later,
Omaha

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RE: Smokin USS - 9/14/2005 10:05:14 PM   
ChrisSpad



Posts: 1523
Joined: 4/19/2002
From: Cordova, TN,
Status: offline 		i'll tell you a secret about smoke - but, use it at your own risk. You can install a line from the crankcase into a one way valve - pointed so that the "out" side is pointed to the smoke tank (just like the exhaust setup on your glow engines), and then out of the tank, into a dubro cutoff valve, and elliminate the pump altogether - however, if you don't use a very high quality tank, the pressure gets super high, and they've been known to explode, and coat the inside of your fuse with smoke oil - with a coro plane, its not really a big deal, but with wood- yuck.
At any rate, your setup looks great - what'd you use for a power supply and cutoff switch? I had a TME smoke pump setup once upon a time - ended up replacing their pump with a windshield washer pump - but using their electronic switch setup. I had more problems with that darned pump than i care to remember. I think i actually got it to smoke a grand total of 3 or 4 times in the air.
Hopefully, you'll have better luck than i did.

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RE: Smokin USS - 9/15/2005 5:54:43 AM   
Omaha_RC_Flyer



Posts: 489
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From: Omaha, NE, USA
Status: offline 		Chris,

I'm using a standard 4.8 volt rx battery pack for power. I connected it to a contact type Micro switch. When I flip a switch on my Tx, the servo horn presses on the micro switch, and the pump starts. When I flip the Tx switch back the micro switch is released, breaking the circuit. (See attached photo for close up view)

As far as wiring it. I soldered the positve motor wire and the positve battery wire to the micro switch. Then I soldered the negative battery wire to the negative pump wire and covered it with heat shrink. (See attached drawing)


Later,
Omaha

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< Message edited by Omaha_RC_Flyer -- 9/15/2005 2:33:08 PM >

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RE: Smokin USS - 10/20/2005 3:25:55 AM   
Omaha_RC_Flyer



Posts: 489
Joined: 3/7/2004
From: Omaha, NE, USA
Status: offline 		Here is a link to some video I got today of the USS smokin in flight.

http://media.putfile.com/SmokinUSS_0002

Later,
Omaha

< Message edited by Omaha_RC_Flyer -- 10/24/2005 3:55:26 AM >

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RE: Smokin USS - 11/5/2005 3:41:18 PM   
WILDCRASHWILLY



Posts: 460
Joined: 10/20/2003
From: Symsonia, KY, USA
Status: offline 		What did you use for a check valve between the muffler and the tank, and where did you purchase the valve?
Thanks

< Message edited by WILDCRASHWILLY -- 11/5/2005 3:42:02 PM >

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RE: Smokin USS - 11/5/2005 11:45:08 PM   
Omaha_RC_Flyer



Posts: 489
Joined: 3/7/2004
From: Omaha, NE, USA
Status: offline 		I purchased this check valve at my local hobby shop. Make sure to get the one for Gasoline if you are using it for a smoke system. Fourmost also makes a glow version check valve, that is red/white.


Later,
Omaha

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RE: Smokin USS - 11/8/2005 9:06:11 PM   
WILDCRASHWILLY



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Joined: 10/20/2003
From: Symsonia, KY, USA
Status: offline 		Thanks Omaha,

I'm going to try to build one of these.

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RE: Smokin USS - 4/24/2006 12:55:49 AM   
Gravityisnotmyfriend



Posts: 848
Joined: 3/1/2004
From: Greenville, WI, USA
Status: offline 		OK, so this plane isn't a SPAD, but the smoke setup was taken from this thread. The pump is a windshield fluid pump out of a junked car and is actuated with a micro-switch from radioshack. I used the same method for a regulating valve as what MinnFlyer suggested. Total money invested is about $8 for the switch and one way valve. I haven't tried it in the air yet as I just got everything plumbed and I just had to try it out in the backyard. I'm really looking forward to seeing this in the air. Thanks to Omaha and MinnFlyer for the plans.

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RE: Smokin USS - 4/24/2006 3:02:25 AM   
Omaha_RC_Flyer



Posts: 489
Joined: 3/7/2004
From: Omaha, NE, USA
Status: offline 		Gravityisnotmyfriend,

You can regulate the oil flow by running the oil clunk line, after it leaves the tank, through an electrical lug (see photos), before it enters the pump. Mount the lug in a way you can have access to the screw from the out side of the fuse. Turn the screw in, to pinch the line and reduce the oil flow, or turn it out to increase the oil flow. This is what I used at first, but I found that using a 4.8 volt pack delivers the right amount of smoke oil without the need for a lug (to reduce the flow) on my USS smoke set-up.

Later,
Omaha

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