RE: ** WALKERA DRAGONFLY 36 *   
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    • All Forums >> RC Helicopters >> Electric RC Helis >> Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.. >> RE: ** WALKERA DRAGONFLY 36 *
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    ** WALKERA DRAGONFLY 36 *
    THE WORST HELI IN THE UNIVERSE
      7% (22)
    VERY VERY VERY BAD
      4% (13)
    DOING MY HEAD IN
      7% (20)
    ACCEPTABLE
      12% (37)
    OK
      9% (28)
    OK
      5% (15)
    GOOD COULD BE BETTER
      22% (65)
    GREAT HELI
      18% (53)
    ABSOLUTLEY LOVE THIS HELI
      8% (25)
    THE BEST HELI IN THE UNIVERSE
      2% (7)


    Total Votes : 285
    (last vote on : 5/25/2009 9:24 PM)
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    RE: ** WALKERA DRAGONFLY 36 * - 11/9/2005 8:00 AM   
    Gobotclaypot


     

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    From: , AL, USA
    Status: offline     		Hi guys. I just joined the ranks of #36 pilots (sort of). I got my heli yesterday and charged the batterys. After the inital checks (stock motor), PLT and PZT adjusted, I tried to fly. Like clockwork, it didn't get two inches off the ground. I tried with both supplied batteries to no avail. So, then I switched the stock motor with the walkera brushless motor and 30a esc. Everything seemingly plugged into the correct slots, etc.... well when I hook up the battery, the motor clicks. All other functions are normal (servos move, etc..) except the bloody motor will not run, only click. Any ideas? Anything would be greatly appreciated. Jeff

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    RE: ** WALKERA DRAGONFLY 36 * - 11/9/2005 9:16 PM   
    thecheatscalc



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    Status: offline     		um, did you plug the two thick wires from the ESC into the batterycables? if not that might be a problem. also the plug could be in backwards. pics?

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    RE: ** WALKERA DRAGONFLY 36 * - 11/10/2005 12:28 AM   
    GTX SlotCar



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    Status: offline     		An update to Soft Start on the Align ESC's.
    HERE is a short video (5 seconds and bad quality) showing the Soft Start in action. Although it sounds like I increased the throttle, I didn't. It's just the Soft Start working.

    < Message edited by GTX SlotCar -- 12/8/2005 3:07 AM >

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    RE: ** WALKERA DRAGONFLY 36 * - 11/10/2005 3:43 AM   
    GTX SlotCar



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    quote:

    ORIGINAL: Mikey-Flies

    ... Keep in mind that the higher the current compared to capacity (C rating) the lower the % of usable capacity (generally).


    So, I'm going to get another LiPo battery. The only charger I have right now is the wall unit that came with my cheapo blue 2200ma. The charger is 12.6V at 1A, so it charges slow, but should work fine on the new battery for a while. When charging the blue lipo, neither the battery nor charger gets warm.

    Am I better off going with a 2200ma 10C battery or an 1800ma 12C ?
    It'll be either this one or this one.

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    RE: ** WALKERA DRAGONFLY 36 * - 11/10/2005 3:55 AM   
    floatyboy


     

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    Status: offline     		The 2200 mah one will not fit into the nose of the heli where the battery is supposed to go. The 1800 mah one does. You would have to alter the heli (cut out) some how to fit the 2200 battery. I had a 2200 battery and sent it back as it was too fat. Anyway you will get 15-20 mins minimum out of the 1800. Thats a good flight time!

    By the way i am using a walkera brushless. Good luck. I found my charge time to be on average an hour and fifteen minutes. And the battery or charger do not even get warm

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    RE: ** WALKERA DRAGONFLY 36 * - 11/10/2005 4:16 AM   
    Gobotclaypot


     

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    Status: offline     		So...even though the above mentioned batteries are walkera batteries, these are ok right? Stay away from the big blue one?

    Thecheat, everything seems to be plugged in correctly. The motor doesn't run at all. It just clicks. I'm thinking the esc is fried. I can get pics when my wife finally finds the camera.

    If I go with a battery other than walkera, can anyone reccomend any type of plugs other than deans plugs? I would rather have the ease of "clip on clip off" like the walkera. Thanks

    Jeff

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    RE: ** WALKERA DRAGONFLY 36 * - 11/10/2005 4:21 AM   
    bfrunner


     

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    These connectors are just as good as deans, and are easier to install, There called powerpole connectors and are sold by many different companies.

    Go with good quality Lipo's for a few more bucks like poly quest, kokam, thunder power, etc.

    As for a charger, get a good quality lipo charger like a Duratrax Ice, Dynamite vision peak ultra, Triton, and many others. Stay away from those cheap wall plug chargers that are included with the cheapo lipo's.

    < Message edited by bfrunner -- 11/10/2005 4:24 AM >

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    RE: ** WALKERA DRAGONFLY 36 * - 11/10/2005 5:31 AM   
    cptsnoopy


     

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    Status: offline     		I can't prove it but I think the reason that most people are having problems with the blue batteries is that they use the wall charger and then drain the lipo below 3v per cell and end up killing the lipo. I have two blue batteries that have only been charged with the triton charger and they work just fine. Just a theory...

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    RE: ** WALKERA DRAGONFLY 36 * - 11/10/2005 6:17 AM   
    CitYbYdBaY


     

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    Status: offline     		cptsnoopy: I think that could be one of the reason why people are having problems with their blue li-po battery. I don't have any problems with mine, and I'm using the stock wall charger thats supplied. I can hover more than 10 mins on a fully charged battery. How many mins of flight time do you get on a fully charged blue 2200 li-po pack cptsnoopy?

    I think the most important charge is the first inital charge for a new battery. The blue li-po that comes with the #36 kit should be sealed up in a bag, and not charged yet.(thats how mine came in the kit) Since the supplied wall charger charges the li-po slow, you should plug it in and let it charge, while keeping an eye on it from time to time just to make sure there isn't any problems. The first inital charge can take up to 3 or more hours, and once the battery is fully charged, the red light on the charger turns green.

    When using the li-po battery make sure you don't drain the battery down to the last drop. Stop at the first sign of a weak battery. You will know when you are at a steady hover, the heli will start to slowly lose it's lift and hover closer to the ground. Bring the heli down and disconnect the battery. The battery should feel warm, so let them cool down to room temperature before charging them up again.




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    RE: ** WALKERA DRAGONFLY 36 * - 11/10/2005 6:21 AM   
    cptsnoopy


     

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    Status: offline     		I am using them in a #35 which may have slightly less drag on the tail rotor system. I don't know that for sure though. I am getting a solid 12-15 minutes flying time with a little left over but I quit there just to make sure the battery is not drained too much. by that time I am usually in need of a rest to calm down the nerves


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    RE: ** WALKERA DRAGONFLY 36 * - 11/10/2005 6:59 AM   
    GTX SlotCar



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    quote:

    ORIGINAL: cptsnoopy
    ...I have two blue batteries that have only been charged with the triton charger and they work just fine....

    Would you like to buy another?
    I think that if the problem was running the batteries too low and ruining them, they should at least work on the first charge. This isn't the case.
    It may be that your batteries are a little different than the ones most of us are using or maybe you got lucky twice and yours just happen to have better matched cells.
    I think there is someone on here that's using one of these chargers with another battery and it works fine. My charger is 12.6V and 1A. The LED is red when charging and turns green when it's done. If I leave it plugged in, it will eventually flicker between red and green for a few moments before going to solid green again. Trickle charge, I guess. When it's done charging, the battery measures 12.47V.
    Aside from offering a 1.5A charge setting, I don't know what else a charger can offer to these batteries. I mean, the charge is going in, it charges to full capacity, and it won't overcharge. I could be misunderstanding something regarding full capacity charging, but as far as I know, there's no mystery or magic. It seems pretty straight forward, if the battery measures about 12.5V after charging, that's about all she can take. I'm going to try charging it, unplugging it, and charging it again - 2 or 3 times and see if it makes any difference.

    I can't find it now, but I read somewhere that a lot of these blue lipo specials are 6C or 8C (I can't remember which because at the time I didn't know C was important), and that's exactly what it feels like when I run it. A few seconds of hovering on a fresh charge, then the battery can't keep up. It still has around 11 volts in it, but won't take the current the motor needs when the voltage drops to that.

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    RE: ** WALKERA DRAGONFLY 36 * - 11/10/2005 7:08 AM   
    GTX SlotCar



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    quote:

    ORIGINAL: cptsnoopy

    I am using them in a #35 ...


    Are you running the stock 380 motor?


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    RE: ** WALKERA DRAGONFLY 36 * - 11/10/2005 9:18 AM   
    CitYbYdBaY


     

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    Status: offline     		I don't know if you ever had this come to mind but, I think maybe the seller sent you the wrong battery, or maybe they sent you a faulty one. If the seller doesn't offer to send you a working one in exchange, then that seller is a rip off.

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    RE: ** WALKERA DRAGONFLY 36 * - 11/10/2005 2:27 PM   
    GTX SlotCar



    Posts: 2322
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    quote:

    ORIGINAL: CitYbYdBaY
    ...If the seller doesn't offer to send you a working one in exchange, then that seller is a rip off.


    Page 12, Post #291


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    RE: ** WALKERA DRAGONFLY 36 * - 11/10/2005 3:42 PM   
    cptsnoopy


     

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    Status: offline     		Hi GTX SlotCar,

    For now I have been buying batteries here in the USA. the main reason is the blue batteries are higher mah and therefore heavier than the 1650mah that I prefer. That does not keep me from using the blue ones, they just get used as number 2 for each heli. now that I have smashed the #45 with the maxamps battery in it (RIP) I will be using the blue batteries as number 2 and 3 for the #35. I don't get a whole lot more time out of the blue batteries than I do from the maxamps but I tend to think that is because of the weight difference that it has to carry. nothing scientific here, it could be the blue ones are just not as good... I am running an Eflite park 400 brushless motor with a cc phoenix 25amp esc. I was running the stock 380sd before that for quite some time. It sounds like your getting close to a full charge but not quite. my triton charges 3 cell lipo's to almost exactly 12.58 to 12.60 volts when fully charged. You will see a dramatic drop off in power as the battery approaches 11.1 to 11.4 volts. The wall chargers should not be defended as a good or even decent charger, they do not have the "brains" to top the lipo's off and should not be used becasue they also present a very serious fire hazard when used with the volatile lipo batteries. I understand that it may cost almost as much as the helicopter to get a really good charger but for now that is the cost of safety and performance. disclaimer: I am just stating my opinion about those wall chargers!


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    RE: ** WALKERA DRAGONFLY 36 * - 11/10/2005 6:09 PM   
    GTX SlotCar



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    Status: offline     		How about this one for a charger?
    The manual is HERE.


    The blue batteries don't have a cell balancer plug, but if I get one of the other batteries, they do have it. How important is it to charge with cell balancing?
    I assume the cell balance connector is 4 prong. A single ground and a + lead for each of the 3 cells. Then each cell is charged individually to max. capacity, so no individual cell is overcharged or undercharged. Does that sound right?

    < Message edited by GTX SlotCar -- 11/10/2005 6:17 PM >

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    RE: ** WALKERA DRAGONFLY 36 * - 11/10/2005 6:09 PM   
    Mikey-Flies


     

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    Status: offline     		I picked up some upgrade parts from helidirect.com for the 36. Unfortunately the tail slider is completely wrong and the upper mixing arms don't have enough clearance (needs quite a few washers or a brass tube spacer to clear the back ball from the flybar pivot holder piece). The tail slider interior is about 1/2 the diameter of the old one Does the 35 have a much smaller tail shaft?

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    RE: ** WALKERA DRAGONFLY 36 * - 11/10/2005 7:35 PM   
    thecheatscalc



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    Status: offline     		yes as it's just a metal rod going though it instead of a belt. that's the reason why it's smaller.

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    RE: ** WALKERA DRAGONFLY 36 * - 11/10/2005 10:56 PM   
    ewr101


     

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    Status: offline     		don't feel bad i did the exact same thing with the exact same parts (mixing arms)!! they are kind of ugly but i have found aluminum parts for the 36 on www.heli-fever.com. they are kind of a violet color. for me it's either those or wait and save for the full rotor head assebly ($140 for helidirect) let me know what you do.

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    RE: ** WALKERA DRAGONFLY 36 * - 11/11/2005 1:14 AM   
    Mikey-Flies


     

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    Status: offline     		The mixing arms were relatively easy to fix. I dug up some longer bolts and used the brass inserts from the plastic arms as spacers (I am going to grind off the flange to allow for a better fit but they work as is).

    I would stay far away from the metal mixing arms at heli-fever. They are not ball raced at all and are of ho-hum quality. The metal center hub I also found to be quite a loose fit and have "upgraded" it to a plastic stock hub. The swashplate is ok but the bearings feel/sound a little rough, was assembled too tight, and the links on the inner balls can contact the outer supports w/o a tiny bit of bending (this happens at moderate swashplate tilt if the links just slightly rotate). I noticed mine were clipped on one edge where they had hit the outer supports at high rpm! The CNC metal flybar mixer I haven't had any real issues with yet and the blade grips have been ok. I'm planning on taking apart the swashplate and lubricating everything with some good "dry" lube.

    The tail slider looks nice but now I need to find one that will fit the 36 as I still don't trust the stock (and if it dies I don't think I'll have a fair chance to find another stock piece that actually works well).

    Does anyone know for certain if the t-rex tail shaft is compatible with the 36? If so I could dig around for a t-rex slider perhaps.

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    RE: ** WALKERA DRAGONFLY 36 * - 11/11/2005 1:50 AM   
    ewr101


     

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    Status: offline     		i actually got a reply to an e-mail i sent to helidirect saying that the tail parts from a t-rex would work but that is from them , not me. if that is true that would be my next upgrade after the rotor head. when i was trying to get the cnc mixing arms to fit i thought of the same thing you did. i also tried flipping the ball links over to the otherside of the arm to get the bearing closer to the paddle arm and push the mixing arm away for more clearance. it seemed to help but the dog bone link still rubbed. i couldn't find any washers to help more. do you think you could post a pic. of what you did cause i would really like to fly this weekend and i would like to see how you repaired your heli. thanks , ewr.

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    RE: ** WALKERA DRAGONFLY 36 * - 11/11/2005 5:05 AM   
    Mikey-Flies


     

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    Status: offline     		Yeah sure. I'll go dig up the camera. I still want to play with it and adjust the geometry a bit more as well. I found that the upgrade dogbone links from the blade grips to the upper mixing arms were too long so I took them apart (they are 2 piece threaded) and cut the long one down to about the same size as the short one and trimmed a bit off the threaded rod. Now the arms sit a little better (still need to adjust a bit).

    Edit, here is a picture of the spacer as it currently sits. It looks slightly askew in the picture but it isn't in reality.

    Sorry for the fuzziness, I was having a hard time keeping the camera steady.



    < Message edited by Mikey-Flies -- 11/11/2005 5:51 AM >

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    RE: ** WALKERA DRAGONFLY 36 * - 11/11/2005 6:15 AM   
    GTX SlotCar



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    quote:

    ORIGINAL: Mikey-Flies

    ...I was having a hard time keeping the camera steady...



    I hope everyone sees the humor in this (coming from an RC heli pilot).

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    RE: ** WALKERA DRAGONFLY 36 * - 11/11/2005 6:18 AM   
    Mikey-Flies


     

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    Status: offline     		I'll have to take the slop out of MY linkages...

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    RE: ** WALKERA DRAGONFLY 36 * - 11/11/2005 6:02 PM   
    GTX SlotCar



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    Status: offline     		I broke a blade holder (crashed into an end table) last night. First thing I've broken on my 36. Is it worth getting metal ones?

    If you were to get one metal head part to increase stability, which one would it be?

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    All Forums >> RC Helicopters >> Electric RC Helis >> Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.. >> RE: ** WALKERA DRAGONFLY 36 *
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