RE: ** WALKERA DRAGONFLY 36 *  
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  • All Forums >> RC Helicopters >> Electric RC Helis >> Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.. >> RE: ** WALKERA DRAGONFLY 36 *
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    [Poll]

    ** WALKERA DRAGONFLY 36 *


    THE WORST HELI IN THE UNIVERSE
      7% (22)
    VERY VERY VERY BAD
      4% (13)
    DOING MY HEAD IN
      7% (20)
    ACCEPTABLE
      12% (35)
    OK
      10% (28)
    OK
      5% (15)
    GOOD COULD BE BETTER
      23% (65)
    GREAT HELI
      17% (50)
    ABSOLUTLEY LOVE THIS HELI
      8% (24)
    THE BEST HELI IN THE UNIVERSE
      2% (7)


    Total Votes : 279


    (last vote on : 7/7/2008 4:30:31 PM)
    (Poll will run till: -- )
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    RE: ** WALKERA DRAGONFLY 36 * - 10/14/2005 12:53:16 AM   
    ewr101


     

    Posts: 257
    Joined: 8/27/2005
    From: spring, TX, USA
    Status: offline
    what does the #5 dip switch control?

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    (in reply to NOZZARCHELI)
           Post #: 76

    RE: ** WALKERA DRAGONFLY 36 * - 10/14/2005 4:14:08 AM   
    CitYbYdBaY


     

    Posts: 187
    Joined: 8/16/2005
    From: @, CA, USA
    Status: offline
    Here is a link to a post by Spockie-Tech that should answer your question about the #5 dip switch control.

    http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3309067

    (in reply to ewr101)
           Post #: 77

    RE: ** WALKERA DRAGONFLY 36 * - 10/14/2005 1:54:37 PM   
    iaincockburn


     

    Posts: 1
    Joined: 10/14/2005
    From: SalisburyWilts, UNITED KINGDOM
    Status: offline
    And I thought I was the unlucky one - clearly their QC manager needs a kick up the cyclic

    Yes, I too bought a Dragonfly 36 and the cyclic roll control on the Tx did not function (something rattled inside, and the right control stick jammed when moved left and right) Also, the elevator motion (up / down) of the control stick was stiff.

    At risk of invalidating my warranty, I opened the Tx and found that a bit of black plastic (shaped like a flat banana) had come loose. The reason? This bit of plastic should have been attached like a lever on a small rocker bar at the top part of the 4 way control stick box. However, because a spring had not been fitted (in fact was absent from the interior and therefore NEVER fitted) the lever either worked loose or I suspect was simply thrown into the Tx case with no attempt to install it.

    To fix it, I undid 4 screws around the 4 corners of the control box, and carefully levered out the top edge (I hope you're still with me on this). I jury-rigged a small spring out of a biro (take a look at the other spring and lever arrangements affecting the 3 other controls to get some insight how this should be done) and fitted it onto the lever and the top edge of the control box. I then jiggled the whole thing back in place and screwed it up. BTW - I discovered and corrected a second fault. The assembler had failed to fit the washers of two of the screws into their small rebate on the bottom edge of the control box. Result was they had slightly distorted the other lever (one managing the cyclic elevator) which had made it stiff. By reinserting the washers correctly into the rebates the control stick moved freely again.

    I hope this helps? Sorry, I've got no pictures but once you've got the back lid of the Tx it all becomes clear.

    "and it comes ready to fly straight out of the box" - yeah, I wish!

    (in reply to NOZZARCHELI)
           Post #: 78

    RE: ** WALKERA DRAGONFLY 36 * - 10/14/2005 5:09:31 PM   
    DDrogon



    Posts: 139
    Joined: 1/24/2005
    From: chilliwack, BC, CANADA
    Status: offline
    hey i a 9 year heli pilot ...dont even think of takeing the screws out of the servos...the person saying this is nuts..and or cheep

    (in reply to ronikki16)
           Post #: 79

    RE: ** WALKERA DRAGONFLY 36 * - 10/14/2005 10:09:17 PM   
    NOZZARCHELI



    Posts: 67
    Joined: 9/21/2005
    From: newportGwent, UNITED KINGDOM
    Status: offline
    HI, I haven't taken my screws out, just don't want to risk the servo arm popping off...........Thanks guys

    MATT

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    (in reply to DDrogon)
           Post #: 80

    RE: ** WALKERA DRAGONFLY 36 * - 10/14/2005 10:15:38 PM   
    thecheatscalc



    Posts: 1228
    Joined: 8/13/2005
    From: fayetteville, GA, USA
    Status: offline
    why thank you! really, the walkera servo's come with the fittings pretty snug, really it works for me. I've crashed so may times and every time my servos come out strong and steady. Most of the jerking will strip the gears but if the jerking pops off the horn everything else is in order. really I'm not nuts, yes maybe cheap but I'[m just saving money that would be wasted if I stripped my servos every time I crash. besides the screws don't dig into the plastic anyways. also another cheap tip, the servo screws will do to replace one of the servo mounting screws, one of mine is held that way.

    PS: keep everything in perspective, this is a TRAINER/FUN heli you don't really need to worry about it if it flys well and has no detrimental problems. really mine flies great, love it, and I'm getting better with it every day, and yes half my heli is makeshift screws, zipties, and CA but it's solid as a rock and is extremely stable even in light winds, though I wouldn't recommend flying in gusty winds, you want a steady wind. Also flying in wind is easier if you remove the gyro and let it weather vane, then just get behind it and fly.

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    (in reply to DDrogon)
           Post #: 81

    RE: ** WALKERA DRAGONFLY 36 * - 10/15/2005 5:54:23 AM   
    DDrogon



    Posts: 139
    Joined: 1/24/2005
    From: chilliwack, BC, CANADA
    Status: offline
    hello everybody I'm semi new to talking in forms but listening to you guys talk has been informative(and Fun),I'm waiting for my number 36 helicopter and I'm going crazy, in case you didn't see my stats I flew a Xcell Pro Nitro beast nine years. Now I'm so looking forward to a park flying clean quiet electric.I purchased the li po and brushless motor right away I don't think I'll have a stock motor it won't be included I knew it was the way to go. To my disappointment Walkera radios seemed to be crap but truly I expected that. My last Chinese radio one of the gimbel's fell apart , I fixed it myself. I think when I get my helicopter I will be rebuilding and checking the radio thanks to you guys......I don't want to wait till a stick jams in-flight.you probably already have something like crazy glue hanging around my experience is to make things better than they were when they were built...small amounts of this clue can lock parts.also the combination with nylon cloth can even rebuild plastic frames...those were my shuttle days...I glued the frame together so many times I couldn't tell where the real frame was anymore...yes it was my first helicopter....when I figure out this 36 I'll come back and answer some questions and try to be helpful to this community..I love this hobby so much ...I have three Nitro aircraft but don't fly them...helicopters rock my world.I guess you guys can call me Xcell .....you can see where my handle came from PS to the gentleman removing screws from his servo horns no big deal just hope one never comes free from vibration please be careful. thanks guys.

    (in reply to Tiger27)
           Post #: 82

    RE: ** WALKERA DRAGONFLY 36 * - 10/15/2005 6:14:14 AM   
    inline2542


     

    Posts: 5
    Joined: 10/15/2005
    From: , NC, USA
    Status: offline
    ok, so you have an align 420lf motor with 25a esc on a dragonfly 36? Reply back if this is correct. I bet it is powerful. I didn't know it would work. I may put one on mine if I am understanding this correctly.

    (in reply to thecheatscalc)
           Post #: 83

    RE: ** WALKERA DRAGONFLY 36 * - 10/15/2005 3:11:58 PM   
    thecheatscalc



    Posts: 1228
    Joined: 8/13/2005
    From: fayetteville, GA, USA
    Status: offline
    yes it works great, but you'll need some pinnions that fit it as it has a larger shaft than most motors (3.0mm right?) ok scearch grand Rc for parts in the "all parts section" under TRex for pinnions look for 11?,13?,15?

    oh when you get your craft Xcell I'd suggest doing what I did, so yes I'm the gent...kid, that suggested that, the one it's needed on most is the lift servo, trust me when you crash this thing EVERY time it's popped off when I crashed, you just stick it back on and you're ok. if you experience dramatic lift it's popped off and you'll want to settle it down quickly, that only happened once, but it was already amost all the way off the begin with, just check before you fly, and you shouldn't have much vibration to begin with, as this isn't supposed to shake like a nitro. good luck

    PS: what typ of cloth and how strong is it? I'm going to be using this as a subsitute for ZIPTIES once my bucket runs out

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    All stock located in the U-S of A!

    (in reply to inline2542)
           Post #: 84

    RE: ** WALKERA DRAGONFLY 36 * - 10/15/2005 5:23:03 PM   
    GTX SlotCar



    Posts: 2064
    Joined: 10/7/2005
    From: Gorham, ME, USA
    Status: offline

    quote:

    ORIGINAL: thecheatscalc
    PS: what typ of cloth and how strong is it?


    Probably any cloth will work. I recently repaired a broken DF #4 blade this way. The break was near the mounting hole and the way these blades are shaped, it's very thin there. I bought this, used, on eBay but the seller didn't say the blade had been repaired. I could see that it had but tried it out anyway. He just used CA to hold the pieces together. When I skimmed the floor with the blade, it broke again. I glued it the same way a coupe times myself, but it didn't take much to break it again each time.
    Finally, I glued it normally and let it dry. Then I added a cloth patch to the top of the blade. I used some speaker grill cloth which stretches nicely, but it's a little thick. I trimmed a piece to go around the mounting hole and glued the leading edge and let it set up. Then I stretched it over the break and applied a few drops of CA onto the cloth and held it in place until it set up, pushing down on it from time to time to make sure the CA had saturated the cloth and was bonding to the blade. When that was done, I did the bottom the same way.
    It's a lot like doing a fiberglass repair, only the cloth isn't fiberglass cloth and you're using CA instead of fiberglass resin.
    I balanced the blades and hovered the heli in my warehouse. It didn't shake a bit. I ran into a metal garbage can (the repair didn't make me a better pilot) and this time the blade didn't break. It's a very strong repair.



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    SuperSkids® www.super-skids.com

    (in reply to thecheatscalc)
           Post #: 85

    RE: ** WALKERA DRAGONFLY 36 * - 10/15/2005 8:05:58 PM   
    borisboy


     

    Posts: 84
    Joined: 10/5/2005
    From: minehead, UNITED KINGDOM
    Status: offline
    HI THECHEATSCALC

    Hi mate i have a alighn brushless and 25 esc not fitted yet but just read your post about the pinion i am trying to find one at grand rc is
    3.0 the correct size as i can only find 2.8 how important is it to get this pinion i.e will my new motor work unless i get the pinion right.

    cheers

    (in reply to thecheatscalc)
           Post #: 86

    RE: ** WALKERA DRAGONFLY 36 * - 10/15/2005 9:35:12 PM   
    thecheatscalc



    Posts: 1228
    Joined: 8/13/2005
    From: fayetteville, GA, USA
    Status: offline
    ok just for you I'll go find it. ok here it is http://www.grandrc.com/trex?b=1 look at the bottom of the page, I got the exact same item and it fits on my heli.

    hey I tried that on one of my control arms that I broke, seems to be very sturdy. It IS hard to hold that cloth tight with one hand though as it is such a small piece. thanks for the trick I just put CA on the grocery list as well as nylon cloth. though it does sound better when they use "dope or dopeing" for the fiberglass...it just makes it sound like my heli's having a good time

    PS: boris you don't talk like you live in the uk...mate? oh well, cheers from the US 'o A

    thecheat

    < Message edited by thecheatscalc -- 10/15/2005 9:36:33 PM >


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    (in reply to borisboy)
           Post #: 87

    RE: ** WALKERA DRAGONFLY 36 * - 10/15/2005 9:44:32 PM   
    sparkling_fist


     

    Posts: 453
    Joined: 7/28/2005
    From: London, UNITED KINGDOM
    Status: offline
    er you need a pinion thats suitable.
    i bought a steel pinion instead of a brass pinion. (steel has a bit more spaces between the teeth.)
    and that was a very bad choice.
    it ripped off the gear VERY badly.. its now completey flat the main gear.
    but the top of it is ok (but not as sharp as should be) becuase i superglued the pinion a bit short.
    unfortunatly i cant get my main shaft out to replace it

    heres a pic of what wrong pinions can do.


    the pinion was loose and i thought id superglue it to see how strong it can hold it..
    but after like 5 secs it was impossible to remove it

    loctite superglue is extremly powerful at holding metal with metal.

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    (in reply to borisboy)