RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)  
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RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread) - 12/26/2005 2:18:58 AM   
sseward



Posts: 239
Joined: 11/11/2002
From: Manassas, VA, USA
Status: offline 		Chas....won't even attempt it! I may have to tag along as a guest at the Farm club to get this thing maidened! I'll be as twitchy as a bag of cats as it is, don't need the power line limbo to complicate things!

Steve

(in reply to chasrb)
       Post #: 176

RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread) - 12/26/2005 2:25:42 AM   
chasrb



Posts: 941
Joined: 1/12/2003
From: Warrenton, VA, USA
Status: offline 		Use the backplate Luke... Hey Steve I have a RCV 90 in a 60 sized P51 from Modeltech (it was and ARC from 1998) and the 90 fit in perfect. But in my opinon the backplate is a must. Also line the front side of the firewall with brass or alum. to advoide any wear. The backplate goes in behind the firewall.

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Chasman

(in reply to sseward)
       Post #: 177

RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread) - 12/26/2005 2:26:43 AM   
chasrb



Posts: 941
Joined: 1/12/2003
From: Warrenton, VA, USA
Status: offline 		Come as my guest! Plenty o' room at the FARM

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Chasman

(in reply to sseward)
       Post #: 178

RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread) - 12/26/2005 2:29:35 AM   
chasrb



Posts: 941
Joined: 1/12/2003
From: Warrenton, VA, USA
Status: offline 		I have the GP PT17 and it is as well put together as the P6E. I have a 120 Saito in it with a custom Bendee pipe I made. I really enjoy flying this plane.

Steve I practiced on the Tigermoth in G3 to get te feel for this type of airframe and it really helped.

You need the rudder. I linked 15% rudder to my Ail and it is very scale.

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Chasman

(in reply to chasrb)
       Post #: 179

RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread) - 12/26/2005 2:44:50 AM   
sseward



Posts: 239
Joined: 11/11/2002
From: Manassas, VA, USA
Status: offline 		I still really want the Super Stearman, In fact, that would have been my christmas present if this hadn't come out.

I was actually wondering if you could use a thin layer of rubber of some other buffer to reduce vibration? In any event, I think I've work out how to mount the back plate.

I've been flying the Tiger moth and other bipes on the simulator as well. I actually considered buying the GP Tiger to train on but Hobby Hanger sold the one they had in stock. After looking at the P-6, It has big Flat bottom wings with a pretty deep cord so I imagine it's very stable. Looks like it will be good in the wing loading department as long as you keep it light.

I may take you up on the Farm offer too!

Steve

(in reply to chasrb)
       Post #: 180

RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread) - 12/26/2005 3:07:59 AM   
GaGeeBees



Posts: 529
Joined: 9/26/2004
From: Fayetteville, GA, USA
Status: offline 		I've owned the GP Tiger Moth for a couple years and 100's of flights. It's an excellent flier and a real ****cat. The only thing I don't like about it is the landing gear is located too close to the CG and it wants to nose over in grass. The P-6E handles better on the ground and in the air. It lands at walking speed... literally. The maiden flight of mine was a piece of cake.

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...and then the unthinkable happened!

(in reply to sseward)
       Post #: 181

RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread) - 12/26/2005 9:23:12 AM   
Baroncowboy



Posts: 270
Joined: 3/31/2003
From: Staunton, VA, USA
Status: offline 		I should have a video on here possibly tommorow,weather permiting...
I have really no concerns or doubt about making the maiden since this is a "Great Planes"product...
I owned the GP Fokker DR1,and it was one of the best and most fun planes I have ever owned...
It quickly made the"Curse of the Tri-Plane"opinion people eat their words...
It was however just a hair squirly on take-offs & landings due to no tail wheel stearing,and stiff landing gear,but it was a real thing of beauty in flight... And suprisingly really easy to fly... I even let some of the local club newbys try it out once I put it in the air and they didnt have any problems...
(sseward) - About being nervous flying a biplane or having to train for double wings...
You dont need to... If you can fly a sport plane,then you can fly a bi-plane... There isnt many things that are different about bi-planes or even tri-planes for that matter vs. a mono...
The only noticeable things that I see is,they have a bit more drag than a mono,so you have to stay a little more "power on" during approachs,and the wind tends to float em around a little more,however its nothing unmanageable nor to worrie about...
IMO They are alot more fun to look at,especialy durring landings and low fly-bys!
I dont think Ive ever heard of anyone whos owned or flown a bi-plane that didnt like it to tell you the truth,unless they just couldnt fly a kite to begin with...
Anyhow,Im anxous to see what my bird is going to do with this 150 on front... I broke it in today and I have to say,with an 18x6 prop it really jerks this plane around when I goose it,so I predict half throttle flights...Anyone else have a Satio 150 on theres thats flown it?...

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Plane's,Heli's,Car's&Trains...Like em all,got em all,cant afford anyofem...12 yrs.of R/C & go'n! & Yes the Avitar is me...

(in reply to GaGeeBees)
       Post #: 182

RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread) - 12/26/2005 12:06:48 PM   
GaGeeBees



Posts: 529
Joined: 9/26/2004
From: Fayetteville, GA, USA
Status: offline 		Baroncowboy is right on in his comments. I've got the Great Planes Fokker DR1 as well and it's one of the sweetest fliers made. Keeping a bit more power on at approach is definitely the key. The added drag is indeed a factor but the added lift from the extra wing(s) helps them fly really slow without stalling. I prefer to dial in a few clicks of down to give me a nice rate of descent with the stick at neutral and the throttle at about 1/4 or so and just let it come in for a wheel landing and rollout vs. trying to stick a three pointer. We don't get many windy days down here in Georgia but when we do I get out there with one of the bipes (or tripes). They're a blast to fly in a stiff breeze and with enough wind will fly backwards and land like a Harrier. Great fun. Definitely agree, if you have sport plane experience you're ready for this one. Now get out there and fly!

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...and then the unthinkable happened!

(in reply to Baroncowboy)
       Post #: 183

RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread) - 12/26/2005 12:16:38 PM   
GaGeeBees



Posts: 529
Joined: 9/26/2004
From: Fayetteville, GA, USA
Status: offline 		Baroncowboy - I've got the Saito 1.50 on a 100" Rearwin Speedster and it's a great running engine. It's going to be more than enough for your Hawk and, you're right, 1/2 throttle or less will fly it. I use an 18x6 prop on mine too and it lopes along at about 7,400 rpm or so. It's amazingly quiet for a big single and idle is reliable as can be. You ought to have almost unlimited vertical with that setup. I'm guessing you didn't need to add any ballast to get yours to balance with that big ol' Hemi hanging on the front. Looking forward to your flight report. I may try to sneak in a flight this afternoon myself.

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...and then the unthinkable happened!

(in reply to GaGeeBees)
       Post #: 184

RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread) - 12/26/2005 2:27:35 PM   
aircowboy



Posts: 136
Joined: 12/15/2002
From: Schenevus, NY, USA
Status: offline 		Here are some more pics of my Hawk, nearly completed. Notice how I mounted my weightbox. By mounting on rails forward of the firewall, I was able to reduce the amount of weight required to balance my plane. All up weight is 12 1/2 pounds. 12 oz noseweight with a Saito 125. Also posted are pics of the removeable hinges.

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(in reply to GaGeeBees)
       Post #: 185

RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread) - 12/26/2005 3:49:12 PM   
sseward



Posts: 239
Joined: 11/11/2002
From: Manassas, VA, USA
Status: offline 		Ok Fellas, I have a question about the bottom wing. The provide two 1/2" square sticks to use as spacers for the wing tips when you assemble the bottom wing. I dry fitted my wing together with the joiners in, the gap and aligment was perfect, but when I put it down on the board the space under each tip is more than 1/2" I took out the joiner and laid it down with the blocks under the tip and the gap is much wider. Looks to me like the joiner sets the right angle based on how well the root ribs line up, but it certainly sets more than the 1/2" dihedral at each tip. Anyone else run across this. Just want to make sure this doesn't cause problems with the struts later.

Steve

(in reply to aircowboy)
       Post #: 186

RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread) - 12/26/2005 4:00:29 PM   
kelvincu


 

Posts: 83
Joined: 10/23/2003
From: Gales Creek , OR, USA
Status: offline 		Well Ive been working hard on this exhaust and here are some pictures to show what Ive accomplished. Hope you guys are still interested because I have put a lot of time into this and would like to get something for all my effort. The RCV is a cool engine this is the first one Ive ever owned and and ever heard run. I like it. Anyway this is to stur up the juces.

Kelvin

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(in reply to aircowboy)
       Post #: 187

RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread) - 12/26/2005 4:03:06 PM   
GaGeeBees



Posts: 529
Joined: 9/26/2004
From: Fayetteville, GA, USA
Status: offline 		The 1/2" blocks give the correct dihedral. You might want to carefully sand the roots of the wing halves to close the gap. However, the way the bottom wing is installed I believe it could be left two piece without any ill effects. It ain't goin' anywhere once it's all bolted in.

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...and then the unthinkable happened!

(