sgilkey
Posts: 143
Joined: 2/27/2002
From: Shelby Township,
MI, USA
Status: offline
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Having watched the bladder guys, once you have a system sorted out, it looks like the way to go. my problem is i just haven't forced myself to adopt the bladder system. it would mean a total re-do of my fleet to find a place to put the bladders, while new construction would be easy I don't want to have a mixed fleet so I stick with the simple suction system. Watching ROID in action, he handles the system very easliy and smoothly and it solves a lot of potential problems. Since you're starting virtually from scratch on your combat fleet, you might want to consider "taking the plunge". Sure bladders have some drawbacks but so do suction systems. I saw Lee pop a bladder seconds before start at the NATS, he has anticipated this problem and his bladder cavity has a drain, he has a spare made up and he very calmly inserted his spare, refueled, and had the engine going in probably less than 30 seconds from the burst. I too have used the Hayes 3 ounce tank with success, it is enough for an SSC heat but you must be careful to get a good floppy clunk line, the tank is so short that you need to use very flexible line to get good clunk motion- i got some small soft tubing from McMaster-Carr. The hayes 4 ounce tank is easier to set up in this regard and if you use the soft Sullivan medium tubing it will have good clunk motion. AJ taught me a trick that has worked well on the AVENGER profile-type fuses, stick the HOOK side of sticky-back Velcro (Available at home Depot, etc) on BOTH the tank and fuse, then put a layer (i use about 3/8 inch think) of foam rubber between the tank and fuse, the hook side of the velcro bites the foam and keeps the tank from sliding. then GENTLY wrap with a strip of velcro (or I use packing tape) to secure to fuse, wrap so loose that you don't compress the foam. this solved the foaming problems I had on the SSC planes. On Brian's B AVENGERS i was able to mount the tanks with two-sided tape with no foaming problems. for sealing the LA backplate I use HILOMAR, a non-hardening sealer for auto water pumps (available at auto parts stores), it has the consistency of RTV but does not harden, so it is much easier to deal with on disassembly. or you can use the FP backplate which is cheap and solves the loosening problem but i'm not convinced it's the best for durability as it is shorter, and therfore the rod can come slightly off the crankpin which seems to me less than ideal for big-end bearing life. but guys have been using the FP backplate with success so what do i know. if you have access to a machine shop you can machine the sealing surface of the FP backplate to let it extend the proper distance into the LA case. or you can use the Magnum XL 15 which does not have backplate problems but has a soft crank and a finicky carb needle. Or you can use the TT GP15 which has none of these problems but has a HS needle that is easy to break off, ruining the whole carb casting. What the world needs in addition to a good 5 cent cigar is the 25FX-equivalent of an SSC engine- reliable and durable out of the box. I use the FP15 which has none of these problems and is very reliable and durable but it is not as powerful as the LA, it's the rare FP15 which will hit the 17.5k limit in my experience, while it seems many if not most LAs will.
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All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> RC Combat >> RE: SSC and Open B 
RE: SSC and Open B - 
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. And it is true that my "new" wings are faster than wings that have been in a couple of mid-airs and have the wrinkles in the 
