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RE: BALSA USA 1/3 SOPWITH PUP????? - 1/1/2013 3:43 PM   
rotorboy2.4gh


 

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ORIGINAL: crashwilson

rotorboy, Nice pictures, and they due look pretty darn good to me.I checked out the posts for the gear and it cleared my mind up some,I know that the two pieces are solder together.I see two pieces on the bottom, one long one which I think is the axle and then another  shorter one. in the the middle I can't quite make out how they are connected!. then what keeps the axles from bendining up with wheels on and landing?WHAT KIND OF THREAD DID YOU USE FOR STICHING?

I used regular old sewing thread,-worked out pretty good. The landing gear,is just a single rod that is soldered at both ends. Then a longer,larger axle which is attatched in the center with a piece of brass tube that i crimped,then soldered. That is an uncomplete pic,as there is a brace guide on the ends that allow the axle to move straight up and down without moving forward or backthen you wrap bungee cords around the axle to create your shock abbsorber-so to speak,just like the real deal. there are some good post on here that show thati will look them up and show them for you.Frank.
Look at post 632634that should give you a good idea on the mechanics of the landing gear.




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RE: BALSA USA 1/3 SOPWITH PUP????? - 1/1/2013 6:39 PM   
crashwilson


 

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Status: offline 		ROTORBOY, your stiching really looks good. I think I'll try it.How thick is the thread that you use?Is that one piece laid all the way across the paper?then cut when you cut the strips?Also my USA kit I only found the two landinding gear pieces and the long axle part. In your posts it looks like I might be missing one piece.And what keeks the wheels from pushing up on the axle?Do you guys spray paint your planes after all your covering work is done?or brush. I know that the Sig koveral sounds alot cheaper then the covering I was thinkinking of useing.And the fact that you tell me there is no odor helps a whole lot.Now that the holidays are over I plan on getting back to work on my Pup.I think I will get a few things from Mick Reeves and I have  full body pilot coming that I ordered from The Pilot People.You'all have been a great help and I am glad I came across such a great group of builders!!!

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RE: BALSA USA 1/3 SOPWITH PUP????? - 1/2/2013 1:05 AM   
Eindecker_pilot



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I painted mine with exterior latex paint and a brush after covering with solartex. In areas where I wanted some translucency, I just diluted the paint with water.

Greg

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RE: BALSA USA 1/3 SOPWITH PUP????? - 1/3/2013 3:30 PM   
Nieuport nut


 

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RE: BALSA USA 1/3 SOPWITH PUP????? - 1/3/2013 9:08 PM   
Eindecker_pilot



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ORIGINAL: Nieuport nut

If you can spay the latex, I've found you can have even more control over the transparency/translucentcy.

Martin


That's a good tip, my shop is pretty low tech & I just had brushes on hand when it was time to paint. A paint sprayer is on the shop's wish list still!
thanks,
Greg


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RE: BALSA USA 1/3 SOPWITH PUP????? - 1/3/2013 9:11 PM   
Eindecker_pilot



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ORIGINAL: rotorboy2.4gh

Awesome! What do you have for power?





Mine has the GT-80 for power & I'm very happy with it. Simple to run, smooth, & a little extra power to keep me out of trouble. My Pup came in a little heavy anyway (~42 lbs) with the paintball gun system installed.

Greg


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RE: BALSA USA 1/3 SOPWITH PUP????? - 1/4/2013 4:12 AM   
rotorboy2.4gh


 

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ORIGINAL: Eindecker_pilot


quote:

ORIGINAL: rotorboy2.4gh

Awesome! What do you have for power?





Mine has the GT-80 for power & I'm very happy with it. Simple to run, smooth, & a little extra power to keep me out of trouble. My Pup came in a little heavy anyway (~42 lbs) with the paintball gun system installed.

Greg


OH BOYYou need to send me some pics and info on the paintball setup if you would. Frank.

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RE: BALSA USA 1/3 SOPWITH PUP????? - 1/4/2013 7:10 AM   
Slope Pilot



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ORIGINAL: Eindecker_pilot


quote:

ORIGINAL: rotorboy2.4gh

Awesome! What do you have for power?





Mine has the GT-80 for power & I'm very happy with it. Simple to run, smooth, & a little extra power to keep me out of trouble. My Pup came in a little heavy anyway (~42 lbs) with the paintball gun system installed.

Greg


Mine had a Zenoah GT-80 too. I would like to see that paintball gun system in action!



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RE: BALSA USA 1/3 SOPWITH PUP????? - 1/5/2013 4:28 AM   
crashwilson


 

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Status: offline 		couple of questions men. What size is the balsa that you used to top your ribs off?(or should I say cap)?and if I am looking at the pics right, do you only do the main ribs including the horizontal stab and vertigual stab to?How far over the leading edge do you go,  and I would presume you sand them down level with both leading and trailing edges? Also I don't see any "Tangs" with my kit. Arethese something I have to make? or just buy them from DU-Bro.It was a long holiday and I am finally back out in the garage building again.My Curtiss Robin is setting there begging me for her maidin flight,just to cold for me she'l have to wait for warmer weather!!! I'am not to computer savay but if I can get one of my grandkids to show me how to do it, I'd like to post some pictures.

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RE: BALSA USA 1/3 SOPWITH PUP????? - 1/5/2013 12:58 PM   
R/C Art


 

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Status: offline 		Crash......the wing is not designed for capstrips and none come with the kit. But yes, if you do add them, they would blend into the leading and trailing edges. 3/32" thick by 1/4" wide is a good size for capstrips.

The tangs are small flat pieces of steel .......should be in the bag with the other hardware.



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RE: BALSA USA 1/3 SOPWITH PUP????? - 1/5/2013 2:52 PM   
crashwilson


 

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Status: offline 		R/C Art, I saw that a couple of the other builders a few posts back put the capstrats on their planes and they looked pretty nice. I was just wondering if it is worth the extra work. I want to do the stiching and I want it to look nice.Also the only flat piece's of metal in the kit are the same size as the metal that is incorerated in the upper and lower wings for the struts.Are you suppose to cut these piece's for the tangs?Starting on the upper wings today.All that is left to build is the fuslodge and vertical stab.Also some of the guys are saying they used heavyer cable then what they sent with the kit!!!!

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RE: BALSA USA 1/3 SOPWITH PUP????? - 1/5/2013 6:14 PM   
R/C Art


 

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Status: offline 		I didn't put capstrips on mine. I also did actual rib stitching and it came out looking pretty nice.

I can't remember if I had to cut the tangs to lenght or not. Make sure you have all 8 pieces of metal that incorporate the strut attatchments before you go cutting any metal. If you are not sure, give Balsa USA a call - they are great people to deal with and are modelers themselves.

I didn't change too much from the kit for my build. Servos in the wings instead of belcranks......brace wires on the tail instead of the 1/8" wooden dowels that the kit calls for......there were a couple more, but can't think of them right now. One thing I do know is that the landing and flying wires provided are more than adequate for the job. I haven't seen or heard of one breaking yet.

Mine is the green one and Greg's (Eindecker pilot) is the other one.

I don't seem to have a good picture of the rib stitching.

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RE: BALSA USA 1/3 SOPWITH PUP????? - 1/5/2013 11:24 PM   
rotorboy2.4gh


 

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ORIGINAL: crashwilson

couple of questions men. What size is the balsa that you used to top your ribs off?(or should I say cap)?and if I am looking at the pics right, do you only do the main ribs including the horizontal stab and vertigual stab to?How far over the leading edge do you go,  and I would presume you sand them down level with both leading and trailing edges? Also I don't see any ''Tangs'' with my kit. Arethese something I have to make? or just buy them from DU-Bro.It was a long holiday and I am finally back out in the garage building again.My Curtiss Robin is setting there begging me for her maidin flight,just to cold for me she'l have to wait for warmer weather!!! I'am not to computer savay but if I can get one of my grandkids to show me how to do it, I'd like to post some pictures.

CRASH,My opinion,if you dont do cap strips, you WILL have a problem keeping your covering stuck to the undercamber,UNLESS you do real stitchin-OR use sig stixit! Having said that,I waivered on that myself for some time-then just made the decision to cap it all. To me,-It was WAY worth the time. Much cleaner,and everything sticks better. Just look at your surfaces when your capping,and you will just be able to see what needs to be capped. I will post some pics to try and help if you decide to go that route. You can see by these pics from when i was biulding,kind of how to,-you can see where some caps still need to be blended. Also,on the aileron cut out,you have to cap that as well to keep the deck all consistant,you will understand if you do it. Dont stress to bad,-no real right or wrong here. Just have fun. I believe mine turned out so much better being capped.. If i can help more,-ask.Oh yea,on the uncovered picsthe half ribs are not capped-(in those pics) they DID get capped!!-It is your option not to address the lower wing support with just the short dowels or not,and as i said people have done it with success. I have just share what I was told by the late RON BUSH who owned BUSA on this who himself told me i better do it. This is also been well documented.Bottom line,if you dont do anything and it works,Awesome! If it dont-WELL,I have way to much work in it,as well as i thought it was a easy add on while building. Like AC/ART said his worked,and many do,i just think if your build is at a point where you can still do it without tearin up your plane to get to it,Why not then. Frank.

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< Message edited by rotorboy2.4gh -- 1/5/2013 11:50 PM >

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RE: BALSA USA 1/3 SOPWITH PUP????? - 1/6/2013 12:20 AM   
crashwilson


 

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Status: offline 		Frank, thanks for the pic's,your covering really looks good.I think I will do the capping.rc/art said to use 3/32x1/4 sound like what you used?And what about the horizontal stab, and the vertical and rudder? do those need capped as well? I did'nt see any tangs at all in my kit, so today I ordered five bags of nickel plated steel strap from Du-Bro.They look like they will work They are 1/16 thick and 1 5/8 long,predrilled for 4-40 screws or bolts.(what do think? will they be O.K?) Now, one other problem.When I built the lower wigs I placed the metal pieces for the sturt on the outer side of the rib( I looked at the set up on the print were the center section of the wing is and it looked like they were on the outside. when I started the upper wing I noticed they were on the inside of the rib.now do think it will make that much difference if I put the on the outter side of the ribs on the top wings to match bottom or should I try and remove lower ones and put them on the inside??????Rich

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RE: BALSA USA 1/3 SOPWITH PUP????? - 1/6/2013 2:31 AM   
Eindecker_pilot



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Status: offline 		The nickel plated steel straps should work well for your cable fittings but I'm sure if you called balsa USA they would have shipped you the steel strips that should have come with the kit. My kit came with wide steel strip for the wing fittings and a narrower strip to make the cable fittings. The Dubro steel straps are thicker so yours should be fine.

Greg

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RE: BALSA USA 1/3 SOPWITH PUP????? - 1/6/2013 2:37 AM   
Eindecker_pilot



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quote:

ORIGINAL: rotorboy2.4gh


quote:

ORIGINAL: Eindecker_pilot


quote:

ORIGINAL: rotorboy2.4gh

Awesome! What do you have for power?





Mine has the GT-80 for power & I'm very happy with it. Simple to run, smooth, & a little extra power to keep me out of trouble. My Pup came in a little heavy anyway (~42 lbs) with the paintball gun system installed.

Greg


OH BOYYou need to send me some pics and info on the paintball setup if you would. Frank.


I'll try to dig some pics up. I took a few when I was building it but i need to find them. It's definitely worth it! My favorite thing to do is a wing over blasting away with the gun at the top of the arc! .

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RE: BALSA USA 1/3 SOPWITH PUP????? - 1/6/2013 2:57 AM   
Eindecker_pilot



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Status: offline 		The key piece of technology needed to make the gun work is an electronic switch. You can get them from www.emsjomar.com

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RE: BALSA USA 1/3 SOPWITH PUP????? - 1/6/2013 4:07 AM   
valleyk


 

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Status: offline 		I chose to completely modify the elevator and rudder on mine. Found some authentic pictures and made an attempt to copy.

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RE: BALSA USA 1/3 SOPWITH PUP????? - 1/6/2013 5:19 AM   
abufletcher



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RE: BALSA USA 1/3 SOPWITH PUP????? - 1/6/2013 9:24 PM   
Eindecker_pilot



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quote:

ORIGINAL: rotorboy2.4gh

quote:

ORIGINAL: crashwilson

couple of questions men. What size is the balsa that you used to top your ribs off?(or should I say cap)?and if I am looking at the pics right, do you only do the main ribs including the horizontal stab and vertigual stab to?How far over the leading edge do you go,  and I would presume you sand them down level with both leading and trailing edges? Also I don't see any ''Tangs'' with my kit. Arethese something I have to make? or just buy them from DU-Bro.It was a long holiday and I am finally back out in the garage building again.My Curtiss Robin is setting there begging me for her maidin flight,just to cold for me she'l have to wait for warmer weather!!! I'am not to computer savay but if I can get one of my grandkids to show me how to do it, I'd like to post some pictures.

CRASH,My opinion,if you dont do cap strips, you WILL have a problem keeping your covering stuck to the undercamber,UNLESS you do real stitchin-OR use sig stixit! Having said that,I waivered on that myself for some time-then just made the decision to cap it all. To me,-It was WAY worth the time. Much cleaner,and everything sticks better. Just look at your surfaces when your capping,and you will just be able to see what needs to be capped. I will post some pics to try and help if you decide to go that route. You can see by these pics from when i was biulding,kind of how to,-you can see where some caps still need to be blended. Also,on the aileron cut out,you have to cap that as well to keep the deck all consistant,you will understand if you do it. Dont stress to bad,-no real right or wrong here. Just have fun. I believe mine turned out so much better being capped.. If i can help more,-ask.Oh yea,on the uncovered picsthe half ribs are not capped-(in those pics) they DID get capped!!-It is your option not to address the lower wing support with just the short dowels or not,and as i said people have done it with success. I have just share what I was told by the late RON BUSH who owned BUSA on this who himself told me i better do it. This is also been well documented.Bottom line,if you dont do anything and it works,Awesome! If it dont-WELL,I have way to much work in it,as well as i thought it was a easy add on while building. Like AC/ART said his worked,and many do,i just think if your build is at a point where you can still do it without tearin up your plane to get to it,Why not then. Frank.



Another option on the pup to avoid doing cap strips is to use thin CA on the covering on the bottom of the wing. I agree that the undercamber presents a challenge to getting the covering to stick to the other side. I heard the same thing & someone (can't remember) advised me to put a few drops of thin CA to the bottom of each rib after applying the bottom covering (so you're basically putting CA on the inside of the covering where it touches the rib). I didn't do cap strips on my pup & that worked really well.

Greg


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RE: BALSA USA 1/3 SOPWITH PUP????? - 1/6/2013 9:27 PM   
Eindecker_pilot



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quote:

ORIGINAL: rotorboy2.4gh


quote:

ORIGINAL: Eindecker_pilot


quote:

ORIGINAL: rotorboy2.4gh

Awesome! What do you have for power?





Mine has the GT-80 for power & I'm very happy with it. Simple to run, smooth, & a little extra power to keep me out of trouble. My Pup came in a little heavy anyway (~42 lbs) with the paintball gun system installed.

Greg


OH BOYYou need to send me some pics and info on the paintball setup if you would. Frank.


Hi Frank, here are some photos of my gun installation. You'll notice a picture with the CO2 tank & a stout plywood bushing on it. That plywood bushing was glued to the inside wall of the fuselage behind the firewall to support the tank, as the valve sticks out (seen in the next picture). You'll also notice a mod that I made to the cabane strut bulkhead. The kit called for just two 1/8" lite ply formers to be used. This seemed very marginal to me & although I know it works as-is & just couldn't leave it there (you know the feeling right?). I replaced that with a bulkhead made of solid aircraft plywood cut to the same profile.


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RE: BALSA USA 1/3 SOPWITH PUP????? - 1/7/2013 2:06 AM   
crashwilson


 

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Status: offline 		What is the best way to find the C/G on these big airplanes? I know were the C/G is on this 1/3 scale Roinhood is, but trying to balance this heavy of an airplane on your two fingers is tough!!! Any body have a method they would share with me? I would really appreciate it.

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RE: BALSA USA 1/3 SOPWITH PUP????? - 1/7/2013 3:56 AM   
rotorboy2.4gh


 

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ORIGINAL: valleyk

I chose to completely modify the elevator and rudder on mine. Found some authentic pictures and made an attempt to copy.

Valleyk-Simply stunning!!CRASHRudder and stab doesnt need caps because of the size of the wood that is used.Also crash,ca on the udercamber will work,as i have done that before-but,if you get some damage where you need to do some recovering,-that can get a little rough with ca. They both work,but i just choose the caps because it just cleans everything up so well. As far as what side of the ribs the struts are onI would think as long as the upper and bottom are on the same side it will be all good.-EINDECKERYou are my hero on that gunWOW!! That is way cool!!==Frank. R/CART the two pics above with the two pups together,Brilliant specimens.

< Message edited by rotorboy2.4gh -- 1/7/2013 6:03 AM >

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RE: BALSA USA 1/3 SOPWITH PUP????? - 1/7/2013 4:14 AM   
wphilb


 

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Status: offline 		CrashWillison,

Google "Vanessa CG rig" it's a great, easy to build tool and it is the best way to balance a big plane IMHO. Or at least one of the better ones.

Whit


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RE: BALSA USA 1/3 SOPWITH PUP????? - 1/7/2013 4:41 AM   
foodstick



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Status: online 		To balance mine I drilled holes in the plywood side ribs of the wing center section (on the cg), I reinforced them for strength inside the wing,before covering ( obviously). Then I bent two ninety degree wire hooks. When ready to balance the plane I slide the wires into the holes in the ribs, put the rest of the plane together, the spacers on the top wing leave a gap when assembled. All we had to do was pick it up by the two wires, or hang it an inch or two off of the ground with a couple cords. worked really well on this airplane.

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