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RE: Here's a Simple & FREE First Foam Build Plan! Coo... - 3/23/2006 9:52 PM   
Fisher



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Status: offline 		I would not pay more then $35 for another 3S 2000 mAh battery. Here is a 15C for $34 at Slowfly.com

SOC 2000mah 11.1v 15C $34.95
Rated by manufacturer at 15C
Comes with 16 gauge silicone wire with no connector

http://slofly.com/cart/product_info.php?cPath=21_162&products_id=940

If you look around you should be able to pick up a BP-21, 15 amp ESC and 3s 2000 mAh lipo battery for ~$75 delivered to your house.

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< Message edited by Fisher -- 3/23/2006 9:55 PM >

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RE: Here's a Simple & FREE First Foam Build Plan! Coo... - 4/1/2006 10:25 AM   
Espresso-Outfitters


 

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Status: offline 		I believe I can get a better price for batteries, my current supplier is putting them into the ARF's I order, and when I break down the package deal, I gotta wonder where he's making any money from if he was paying 35.00 for the same/equivelant battery as above. The charger is another element I finally nailed down, I'll get you name brands if you want, but they are not necessary, RCU has a good one in their store as well, the concept being controlling the numbers on the charger and making sure it's a field charger, so only drawing from a 12 volt source, I can now put away all of these accumulated wall and auto battery chargers "at last". It sais lipo, but does all of them, I picked it up 50.00 retail since the lipo was just dropped in my lap from the Jenny order.

Meanwhile, I picked up a new bird, it's called the Butterfly, I took it out to the field, it flew very well, but I didn't mount a carbon fiber rod that joins the wings together, so one of the mounts broke away 50 feet in the air, needless to say, I've now tested it's crash resitance feature to extreem levels. It took only a short time to get it back together, it even came with a replacement front end assembly for this worse case scenereo situation, ie. a noob nosing it into the ground at high velocitiy. I'm just impressed with this one and reccomend it as mandatory for the first 3 channel flier, way more then what I've flown in the past of this venue.

Here is a photo of it next to my Jenny:

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RE: Here's a Simple & FREE First Foam Build Plan! Coo... - 4/3/2006 4:14 PM   
Fisher



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Status: offline 		Espresso-Outfitter,

I have seen a few posts on these planes in other forums lately. They have all been favorable with regard to performance and customer satisfaction. Looks like you are hooking up with a good outfit.

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RE: Here's a Simple & FREE First Foam Build Plan! Coo... - 4/3/2006 6:01 PM   
Espresso-Outfitters


 

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Status: offline 		Nothing but a big thumbs up with these guys on this end, so much so, I'm now an official distributor of theirs. I'm going to post a new thread in the noob's corner, hoping these new fliers will learn from my very expensive mistakes, and, if they take my advice, will realize how fun this can be and that they can actually fly, not dart in between radio interference.

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RE: Here's a Simple & FREE First Foam Build Plan! Coo... - 4/4/2006 11:45 PM   
critterhunter



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Status: offline 		Have been pressed for time lately (owe the tax man $3000 by April 15th so I've been working 7 days a week to come up with some extra $$$$), but wanted to chime in and say I love the looks of that desert storm camo job Fisher! Man I have to build one of these soon. Also, Expresso...good looking planes there as well. Will try to coment more in the near future on previous posts. Only flying I've had time for lately is a few hours with the Aero Ace (love it) and one outing with the BP21 Stryker this past week. Fisher, keep on digging up the good deals on those lipo packs! Also, might want to check into GWS as I hear they now have some real cheap ($20 range) brushless motors on the market. If anybody has any info please post it. I've only heard a passing reference about them.


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RE: Here's a Simple & FREE First Foam Build Plan! Coo... - 4/5/2006 11:05 AM   
Espresso-Outfitters


 

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Status: offline 		Sorry to hear about your dilema Critterhunter, living as a poor man all my life "until just now", tax time never was an issue, you don't end up owning much, if anything when you don't make much. I know you can pull it off though, you have a real passion for what you do and take alot of pride in it in spite of the fact it may not be apprieciated at times. Glad you at least can manage some time to go out flying, it's nice to be able to take those short breaks out the usual stress.

Fisher, I was awestruck with your cammo/rebuild of that one, it just looks so pro, like something you'd see on the shelves at your local hobby store, I'd be interested to see what other revisions you can do with it.

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RE: Here's a Simple & FREE First Foam Build Plan! Cool ... - 4/5/2006 5:03 PM   
Fisher



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Status: offline 		Thanks for the kind words regarding the paint job. I will be trying out some additional schemes as time permits. I just finished cutting out 3 complete airframes from a 2' x 8' sheet of white EPS. 3 planes for under $10. You just cannot beat it. Now that I have the templates cut it takes less than 5 minutes to cut a wing starting with the full sheet of EPS.

Espresso,

PM me an address and I can try to get off my a#$ and send you the parts to assemble one of these. Not sure how well it will travel through the mail but all I can do is try. No promisses.

Critterhunter,

The GWS brushless is available at Balsa Products. It looks like it is intended to run on 2s (7.4 v) LiPo. Must be made to match the Slow-Stick. Only puts out about 15 oz of thrust.

http://www.balsapr.com/view.asp?id=A0987449&pid=W637375

I think that the Tower Pro BP series is still the best bang for the buck. Especially if you get them for under $18.

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RE: Here's a Simple & FREE First Foam Build Plan! Cool ... - 4/5/2006 10:02 PM   
critterhunter



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Status: offline 		Expresso, thanks for the words of encouragement. Not too worried about it as I've got about half the money at the moment and can put the rest on a low intrest credit card card until the rest of the cash is in hand to pay it off. I'm not exactly rich either which is why I'm looking for a new career as said before. The thing that kills you as a one man company is social security. Most people don't know the employer pays 7% and the employee pays another seven. End result is 14% of every dollar I make is mandated to go to SS. What burns me about this is city and government workers who don't have to pay into SS. They get to stick money into private mutual funds that are very safe and average 12 to 15% growth a year, yet if I don't throw my money into the SS hole they'll stick me in jail. Now I ask you, why should a "public servant" have better rights then us...the people they are supposed to be working for?

Enough about my problems...Onto the plane. You'll be happy to know that I am at this very moment printing out this entire thread for review. I believe, thanks to you guys, I now have enough information to build the hot wire cutter and crank out some plane bodies. Going to go on a scavenger hunt over the next few days to piece the parts together. First trip is to the local tackle shop to pick up the fishing leader. I stopped in there a few weeks back and they had various diameter and long lengths of the stuff. Just needed the info from this thread to have a better guess at picking the right diameter as a first try. As stated, already have an old car battery charger that should work, etc, etc. You've all been very helpful. Watching you guys learn this as first timers as allowed me to sit back and let other people make mistakes for me.

Also, a slightly different question for anybody. A friend has a Challenger with a junk body that he wants to throw the electronics into something else. Was figuring this plane should be a good candidate as they both used 400 motors. Only question at the moment is the V-Tail controls of the Challenger. Will they work as airleons or is the movement different? I could sit down and think this one through but my mind (as you might guess) is too clouded with the words "IRS" at the moment. At the very least, a one flap configuration as the original foamie design calls for should be possible since up/down will be the same and I can use either servo for that side of the wing to get right/left correct. Servo location won't be a problem as I can easily snip the 5 wires to one of the servos, remove it from the Challenger RX board, and re-locate it onto the wing. Could even just use a Stryker servo since it is exactly the same thing and has a 5 wire harness already attached to it. A few simple snips and solders and she'd be ready for the dance. Somebody with less things on their mind sort this one out for me (V-Tail conversion to the foamie's wing flaps...two possible or stick with one?). I also have two working Challenger boards and a TX sitting around that I could throw into a few bodies just for the heck of it since I have no other plans for them other than collecting dust. While I still plan to build the BP21 and brushed 540 versions first, it'd be neat to have a little fleet of these birds with different paint schemes to play with. Could also use the Challenger versions as trainers for a few friends.

Fisher, by the way...how about giving us some details on that desert storm paint job as I plan to steal it. What kind of paint...how did you make the pattern on it....etc...etc. Remember, some times you have to explain things in detail to God's less gifted.

< Message edited by critterhunter -- 4/5/2006 10:10 PM >

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RE: Here's a Simple & FREE First Foam Build Plan! Cool ... - 4/5/2006 11:45 PM   
Espresso-Outfitters


 

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Status: offline 		I got the privelage of flying a Challenger out in the field, apparently this guy came out the park where I was flying the Butterfly and it got out of range, this is after telling him to watch the power lines since they wreak havvoc over those little radio's reception, that and to stay down wind of the bird at all times, he pretty much ignored both, so went back to my car to hook up the field charger, and came back only to find he's struggling to regain control over this as it looped off into the wild blue yonder. He handed me the controls, I managed to get it back, it was a struggle since the receiver was only intermittently responding to my input, but I should have put it at our feet, since handing it back to him, he got it really out of range, where the radio's input was doing squat at that point, makes a nice free flight glider btw, at least I did manage to get a feel for the controls on it and can't see why the receiver/servo's can't be used for aerlons, you'll also be able to control both of them independantly giving you greater control then the usual set up which is what I'd like to try out next. Of course, you can make it easy on yourself and make another plane configured to the same specs as the original. I'm not that impressed with V tail controls, they are not responsive enough for me, so going with the aerlons may be the best way to go.

If you still can't put the foam cutter together, I'll mail you mine, it's been collecting dust and can rebuild another with little effort.

Fisher, thanks for the offer, I PMed you my info, when I can find some time, I'm going to create a foam mustang as well, perhaps I should expand upon the current free foam design/plans to turn it into a P38 Lightening as well, it so leans towards wanting to become that.




< Message edited by Espresso-Outfitters -- 4/6/2006 8:16 AM >

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RE: Here's a Simple & FREE First Foam Build Plan! Cool ... - 4/6/2006 2:30 PM   
critterhunter



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Status: offline 		Expresso, thanks for the offer on the foam cutter but I'm picking up parts today to build it. V-Tail design has pretty good control. The Challenger has two modes of flight and I'm guessing he had his set to the non-pro mode which only moves one flap at a time and gives less control. I probably wasn't specific enough with the details. I'll use one (or two...if flap movement on a V-tail matches the airleons) for control. For climb and decent I'll just use the Challenger motor as there is no third servo on the board to control lift. I'll simply give the tail flap enough stationary lift to climb on full throttle and glide down on lowest. That all comes later as my first builds will be with the BP21 and 540 motors using standard electronics. I'm mainly just interested in sorting this out for my friend and perhaps a few extra bodes I'll throw my spare Challenger guts into.

Fisher, home computer has bombed and so I don't have a way to download and use Compufoil. Wondering if you can do me a favor and post a diagram of the airfoil at exact dimensions so I can just print it out and trace it onto my airfoil jigs to make. Also, what's the best material to use to make the airfoil jigs? I would guess aluminum but wood might also work...Thickness and type of material you guys used would help.

Read through this entire thread after printing it out last night. Took notes on wire diameter, amp raitings, etc...and will be picking up the fishing leader and a few other parts today. Still believe I'll need to run a dimmer switch with the car battery charger set at 12V 6amps. After reading over various things I don't believe the variable dial that goes up to 1.2 amps on the car charger will get the wire hot enough. However, with it set on the static 12V 6amp setting I probably will need a dimmer switch to tame it down a bit. Am going to try it without one first to see if I can manage cuts. I would guess if I worked fast the too hot wire condition wouldn't be a problem. If anybody has picked up a dimmer switch from Home Depot or Lowes can you post a model number for me?

One other question about the board to fasten the airfoil templates to. Any specific material I should use or is pretty much anything good to go?

Have to head off to work but will probably pick up the parts tonight.


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RE: Here's a Simple & FREE First Foam Build Plan! Cool ... - 4/6/2006 2:54 PM   
Espresso-Outfitters


 

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Status: offline 		Use laminate, ie. commonly known from the name brand "formica" as the jig material, double sided tape works fine for securing it, but hot glue or the contact cement that's on the shelves next to it from the hardware store works just as well if you want to actually mount it to something you can clamp down to remain in position while you run your wire over it, I found the current/heat dissapated when I used metal based jigs, the tape as fisher mentioned helps secure it down to the table, that and the weights, just be sure the work table surface is not raw wood, or something porus, formica or melamine, or painted surface will help with that area. When you put the cutter together, you will look back and wonder why it took you so long, it's really just too simple. You are correct with the current, working time ratio, I can cut in the 2 amp setting just as well as the 6, but it will tend to overheat and blemish the surface if I'm not working fast in the higher amperage mode, the dimmer switch is helpful, but not mandatory.

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RE: Here's a Simple & FREE First Foam Build Plan! Cool ... - 4/6/2006 9:55 PM   
Fisher



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Status: offline 		Critterhunter,

Flying one of these planes with just ailerons and thrust control would take quite a bit of focus. The problem is turning. You would definitely want to use both servos with the v-tail mixing. This would give you some additional turn control. Not sure how much. The v-tail works since the control surfaces are usually quite far away from the center of the wing. Might be fun just to try for kicks.

The template material can be made from anything that is rigid and will not burn or melt too easily. The thinner the better for keeping total width to a minimum. I will try to post a Compfoil template that will print out to the proper dimensions for you. As usual no guarantees. Ignore any curve to the bottom of the wing. Just use the flat side of the foam for the bottom and focus on shaping the top side. Formica, thin aluminum or even sheet metal should work.

Good luck with the hot wire cutter. You are on the right track.

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RE: Here's a Simple & FREE First Foam Build Plan! Cool ... - 4/7/2006 2:43 PM   
critterhunter



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Status: offline 		Thanks for the info guys. Picked up a few diameters of fishing leader last night based on the sizes you guys used. Heading up to home depot tonight to pick up some jig material and something to mount the jigs to permanently for the air foil cutter. Will also take Fisher's cue and use jigs for various other body parts to make cutting faster. While I'm up there I'll pick up some foam (probably the originaly white type and some of the pink Owens Corning so I can try both). Will also be checking out a few dimmer switches and if they are cheap enough I might as well snag one right off the bat.

Fisher, have you bought any of those two types of cheap lipos yet and, if so, how do you like them compared to the Dymonds (which are also cheap but not as cheap).


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RE: Here's a Simple & FREE First Foam Build Plan! Cool ... - 4/7/2006 4:25 PM   
Fisher



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Status: offline 		No new LiPo purchases. I am doing fine with the Dymond RC ones for right now and with all the new low price ones on the market I have been hesitant to buy up a bunch unless I really need them. Quality should keep rising with the falling price. If and when I do purchase I will let you know how it works out.

I forgot to reply to your question regarding the desert camo paint job. I used the Krylon H2O paint that Glacier Girl is always posting about. I found the best selection at Ace Hardware but you can get it at most department stores like Walmart. It comes in enough colors to match any camo scheme (greens, grays and tans). I just free handed the design. Did a bit of practicing on an old wing and fuselage first. the paint sticks well to the foam and the extreme strapping tape. Not so well to the clear packing tape.


< Message edited by Fisher -- 4/7/2006 4:29 PM >

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RE: Here's a Simple & FREE First Foam Build Plan! Cool ... - 4/7/2006 6:54 PM   
critterhunter



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Status: offline 		Picked up a few more parts today. Here's what I have so far:

At Home Depot I got a 4x8' 1 and 1/2" sheet of EPS foam for $10. This isn't covered in any plastic film material as you had described before. It's bare and looks to be the specified foam for this foamie. I was half tempted to pick up some 1 and 1/2" Owens Corning pink foam as this stuff is much smoother and stronger. Still, I know this stuff weighs a bit more than the white EPS so I figured I'd stick with the original foam for now. Can always try a body or two in the pink stuff later.

Based on your messages concerning the fishing leader used for the hot wire cutter I picked up 105lb Number 9 .022 Diameter Single Strand Chrome Nickel Alloy Pre-Straightened Stainless Steel Wire Leader. Say that tens times fast. I would assume the 16 or 22 gage you specified in your messages means .016 or .022 diameter? 25 foot of it for $1.79 so I've got plenty to play with.

Picked up a light dimmer switch at Home Depot for around $5. It's "single pole" which means it's only got three terminals on it....One in, one out, and a ground. Haven't looked closely at it yet but would assume I'd just use the in and out lines and won't need the ground. I'll hook an ohmeter up to the leads and adjust the dial to see which gives the variable resistance needed. Planning on hitching this up to the positive lead off the battery charger in series to the hot wire cutter, with the ground wire off the battery charger hitched straight up to the other end of the hot wire cutter. Will then set the charger to 12V 6 amps and see how she works. Any remarks on this setup? I'd assume I'll need to let the wire heat up for five or so minutes then test cut some foam, adjusting the dimmer as needed to get the temperture where it should be. Too hot and you'll melt holes in the foam when cutting. Too cold and the foam will have too much resistance to the cutting wire. Will then mark the dimmer dial so I know what spot on the dial to use for various types of foam.

For the cutting bow I plan to go super simple as I've read on how to make one. Using some PVC tube with the fishing lead strung from end to end of it and attached via a wing nut at both ends. You simply bend the PVC like a bow and attach the wire to the bolts. The PVC's bend keeps constant tension on it. Problems or remarks on this setup?

Next problem is the templates for the air foil. The home computer is dead right now and so I've been using the local library computer to get online and it doesn't allow downloads. This limits me to the charity of others (?) to throw up a picture diagram of the air foil at it's exact dimensions. This way I can just print it out and trace my templates off it. If anybody cares to do this it must be a photo. I can not open or download online files on this thing.

What type of material to cut the templates out of? I see in previous messages Fisher used aluminum but I believe Expresso had problems with heat bleading off using metal. Couldn't find any formica at Home Depot so I think I'll just use some plywood for it. Problems with that? And, onto the board I will be screwing them to...A bit confused why this board has (?) to be smooth as I thought I read. Can't I just use a 2x4 or some other wider/thinner piece of wood to attach the airfoil templates to?

Then there is the body templates and such that I believe Fisher said he was using. Might cut those out of plywood as well but can't I just get by with tracing the outlines onto the foam and then using my bow to slice'em right out of it?

Beyond the above as I sort through this I might be cutting foam within a day or two so any attempts to answer the many above questions would be helpful.

Fisher, thanks for the info on the paint job. I've painted Stryker bodies before but it's foam won't melt using regular paint. Wasn't sure what type of paint to use for non-safe foam such as this EPS stuff. By the way, have you considered glassing the foam body for a smooth professional look that also will strengthen it greatly? I've been reading up on this for doing Stryker bodies. Makes them look really good and strengthens the body as well.


< Message edited by critterhunter -- 4/7/2006 7:03 PM >

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RE: Here's a Simple & FREE First Foam Build Plan! Cool ... - 4/7/2006 10:17 PM   
Fisher



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Status: offline 		Critter,

Your PVC bow will most likely be fairly flimsy but should work with some patients. Everything else sounds like a good start. You can free hand all the pieces other than the wing but some type of straight edge helps to keep the linear cuts square for mating surfaces.

I worked on an airfoil template for over an hour that would print as a JPG and when I posted it the site cut it down too small to use you could print it and enlarge it on a copier until it is 7" long on the horizontal base line. Remember to use the flat horizontal base line for the bottom of the wing. Not the one aligned with the numbers.

I will try to PM it to you. Maybe that will work.

I just clicked on the embeded image. maximized it on screen. Copied it and pasted it into a Word Document. Set the page to landscape and drug the lower right hand corner down further to the right until the template was 7" long. Print and your ready to go.

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< Message edited by Fisher -- 4/7/2006 10:43 PM >

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RE: Here's a Simple & FREE First Foam Build Plan! Cool ... - 4/7/2006 10:22 PM   
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Status: offline 		Home depo's version is called "Wilsonart" not formica brand laminate, I cannot believe they don't have any there, be sure to ask a sales rep, they should have it in all sizes. They also have cutters, similar to a carpet cutter as well as snips, rather odd looking cutting shears, you can use any saw or dremel and sandpaper the material into place if need be. If you use wood, be sure the final surface is smooth and finished with latex, the reason I don't use wood is because it binds onto the wire causing it to create ridges and I can't control it nearly as well. The smooth surface for the mounting area is so that the double sided tape sticks to it, I go away with a raw piece of plywood on my first ones, but the tape didn't stay stuck to the board, so the foam lifted off as I was working with it. Be sure to weight it down regardless or it will even warp the bottom area even though you aren't cutting that section, I have the beginnings of a lockheed flying wing, didn't even have to add the dihedral since the foam bent into a natural one due to the fact it wasn't weighted down.

Mine takes 5 seconds to warm up, just get some loose scrap to test it's heat, again, I still do not have a dimmer switch on it and find it cutting well in both settings due to the fact that the battery charger both of us have is higher end, you are correct on the socket, ie. power in and out.

Good luck and happy building.

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RE: Here's a Simple & FREE First Foam Build Plan! Cool ... - 4/8/2006 12:36 AM   
critterhunter



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Status: offline 		Thanks to you both for filling in a few more grey areas I had questioned on. Believe I have all the details worked out with your help. Fisher, man...didn't mean to put you through so much trouble with the airfoil. Got your PM and will be printing that out in a day or two once I get to a computer with a printer. Thanks again.


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RE: Here's a Simple & FREE First Foam Build Plan! Cool ... - 4/11/2006 2:18 PM   
critterhunter



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From: Brook Park, OH, USA
Status: offline 		A few nights ago I started to piece together the hot wire cutter. Figured I'd handle the car charger/dimmer aspect of it first. First thing I did was play with the dimmer and ran into a problem. Used an ohmeter on it and can not seem to get any kind of variable resistance readings out of it. Seems to act like an open circuit. Even grounded the third (green) wire thinking it needed to be part of the circuit but not luck. Went on to try the battery charger routed through the dimmer in series and onto a 12V light bulb. Still no response. The light won't come on let alone change brightness. If I hitch the battery charger directly to the light bulb it works so that's not the problem. I suspect that either the dimmer is bad or this old battery charger won't output voltage if there is more than a little resistance in the circuit. I'm using an AC wall outlet dimmer. Perhaps an AC unit like this has way too much resistance to be used with low voltage DC setups like this? Wonder if there are DC units at home depot for things like yard lights. Any ideas on what might be going on would be welcome. If anything I'll just use the charger at 12V 6 amps and try to work fast so I don't melt the foam.


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       Post #: 169

RE: Here's a Simple & FREE First Foam Build Plan! Cool ... - 4/11/2006 2:35 PM   
critterhunter



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From: Brook Park, OH, USA
Status: offline 		Just did a quick search of the web and believe I found the problem. Seems AC dimmer switches won't work with DC (wonder why...figured it was just a variable resistor pot but guess not). You're supposed to installed the dimmer switch between the wall outlet and the battery charger. This allows you to lower the voltage to the charger and thus the charger puts out lower power. Easy enough. Can't believe I overlooked that on the foam cutter threads talking about dimmer switches. Always assumed they were going on after the charger and not before. Darn A.D.D. Reminds me of high school electronics class..."Mr. Hill, pay attention before you blow something up."


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       Post #: 170

RE: Here's a Simple & FREE First Foam Build Plan! Cool ... - 4/11/2006 3:05 PM   
Espresso-Outfitters


 

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From: Tacoma, WA, USA
Status: offline 		Still glad I didn't bother with the dimmer switchl, then again, I build 220v 50 amp sub panels from time to time, so these micro electronics with the application of just producing heat isn't taken nearly as seriously especially since the material being cut is worth less then the change I dump in the mini mart spare penny bin, run your battery raw at 6 amps and move fast, it will do the job, slow it down to 2 amps and you have more control, both will work. The dimmer switch I'm sure is meant for those that have one of those that only output one size amp/wattage, and like I said, both of us have a better charger then most start out with.

Going back to the basics, electricity only works upon a motor/light when it's going one way, look at it like a river, all water goes downhill one direction, power goes in, pushing what ever needs it, and exits to complete the loop similar to a water wheel. Think of the cutter as being 2 rivers flowing into each other, and instead of crashing together and making a lake, it's dissapated into the wire causing heat. This is the same fundamental as any electric heater, when it's all said and done, it's a controlled short circut, you cannot power any motor/light, etc. from it because of that and your test has proven that to yourself "I hope". I like your mythodical style, I question every aspect and detail of everything I get involved with myself as well, having to absolutely master it before moving on, you can take an exception with our input on this, it's just not that compared to 110/220v power nor the material lost worth losing sleep over during the learning curve.

Did you build your bow, if so, take some photo's, I'd be interested to see them.

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       Post #: 171

RE: Here's a Simple & FREE First Foam Build Plan! Cool ... - 4/11/2006 4:41 PM   
Fisher



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From: Anchorage, AK, USA
Status: offline 		Critter,

Keep grinding along. As Espresso-Outfitter implies, half the fun is in the testing of all this. But you know that already. I picked up a copy of Quiet Flyer. You both have to take a look at this magazine. It is full of articles on specific aspects of plane design, in depth reviews of batteries, and other products. Very good resource.

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RE: Here's a Simple & FREE First Foam Build Plan! Cool ... - 4/12/2006 1:00 PM   
Jax_Dorvek


 

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From: , AUSTRALIA
Status: offline 		Some of the components in an AC dimmer cut off DC voltages, its just the way it works unfortunatly.
Easiest way I found to vary the current is just loop extra wire around the cutter arms, then just move the point were the power goes onto the wire. EG, if you have a total of 6ft of cutting wire and put the voltage on the ends you only get a very slight current over the whole wire, but if you put the voltage (I use aligator clips on my batter leads) a bit closer, eg 4ft apart, you get a much higher current flow on the cutting wire.

Hope you can visulize what I mean lol

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       Post #: 173

RE: Here's a Simple & FREE First Foam Build Plan! Cool ... - 4/12/2006 3:08 PM   
critterhunter



Posts: 2722
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From: Brook Park, OH, USA
Status: offline 		Thanks again for all the input and advice. I do know a little more about electronics than what it may sound like. I've always had a fascination with DC circuits and have built things such as deer trail cameras, fish bite alarms, etc. I'd assume that the wall dimmer isn't a variable resistor POT (which makes sense since it would create a lot of heat if it was), but rather uses some form of pulse width control much like a FET in a speed control. Either way, I know it won't work with a DC source. I'm going to go ahead and build it with the wall dimmer on the AC side to control voltage to the charger...soon enough. Right now I'll just hack together the foam cutter and use the 12V 6amps and see how that does. Want to experiment with this charger first as there are several potential solutions besides cutting fast with the 12V 6amps. I'll play with the variable dial that goes up to like 1.2 or 1.5amps and see if that gets hot enough. That setting should at least be perfect for small hand tool foam cutters used to cut out body chambers and such. I also want to try the 6V 6amp setting. Perhaps the lower voltage will compensate for the higher amps.

By the way, Fisher...Was at the local hobby store yesterday and they now are carrying the "more" reasonably priced comon sense lipo packs. I lost one of my Dymonds the other day (found it yesterday) and couldn't suffer through any more flights with my BP21 Stryker with only one pack to play with. Since I found the other one (wasn't a crash...somehow came out in flight...plane softly fell to ground and was fine) I now have three to play with. Anyway, picked up the common sense 2000ma 10C (20 amp with 30 amp burst) 3 cell pack for $44, which is about what the sell it for on the comon sense link you posted. Still a bit too high of a price for my tastes in a lipo but I wanted one now. I also don't feel comfortable with any lipo pack below 20 amp continious ability on my BP21 Stryker and 7x6 prop as it draws roughly 16 amps.

The pack is nicely built with those "air gap" spacers between the cells to keep things cool. It didn't come with a battery plug but the leads are top notch. It also has that battery balancer plug already on it. The store is carrying that little balancing chip "Blinky" sold by comon sense to use with it for like $25. I'll pick one of those up soon enough. I didn't read over the dongle's instructions at the store but from what the salesman told me it plugs into the battery while any lipo charger is charging the pack and keeps things in balance. May even convert my two Dymond packs over to this balance plug when I buy that thing. These packs are slightly longer than the Dymonds but a little less tall. Charged up the pack and took it for a flight yesterday and it performed great. After a full WOT flight I landed and checked the pack. Less warm than my Dymonds...probably due to the air spacers.

Expresso, I think I'll opt for your design on the cutting bow. Was thinking of the PVC pipe and believe it may be more trouble than it's worth. Too flimsy as Fisher said and the potential for the PVC to get hot and melt at the ends of the bow where a bolt would be holding the wire.


< Message edited by critterhunter -- 4/12/2006 3:34 PM >

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       Post #: 174

RE: Here's a Simple & FREE First Foam Build Plan! Cool ... - 4/14/2006 4:08 PM   
critterhunter



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From: Brook Park, OH, USA
Status: offline 		Fisher, real happy with the Common Sense lipos as well as the AstroFlight "Blinky" balancer they recommend for their packs thus far. I even added a 4 pin Molex plug to my two Dymond packs so I could use them with the balancer. This "Blinky" balancer is small, about the size of a credit card. It can be plugged into a pack before it's charged, while it's being charged, or after the pack is charged. It features some tiny led lights on it that light up to indicate a cell is of higher voltage than the others and will simply draw down any cells of higher voltage until they match the cell with the lowest voltage. When you first plug Blinky in all three lights (for a 3 cell pack) will light up for about five seconds to indicate that the cells are not below the safest lowest voltage for a lipo cell. It will then go into balancing mode and continue to balance the packs as needed for as long as it's plugged in. Kind'a cool to then plug the pack into my Celectra charger and watch Blinky get more activate as it keeps a balancing act going between all three cells as they charge. For $25 you can't beat it. Also feel a lot safer knowing my Dymonds are balanced now. For more information on wiring a balancing plug to the Dymonds or on the Blinky check out the electric power sources forum. Didn't take me long at all to wire up the Dymonds but I almost blew myself up in the process (check the two threads on there..."Adding A Balancing Plug To A 3 Cell Lipo" and the other thread I started on the Blinky and Common Sense lipo packs).


< Message edited by critterhunter -- 4/14/2006 4:10 PM >

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