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All Forums >> Glow Engines, Gas Engines, Fuel & Mfg Support Forums >> RC Fuels >> Synthetic and non for ringed and non engines
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Synthetic and non for ringed and non engines - 11/6/2002 4:13:24 AM   
Desert Toad



Posts: 250
Joined: 11/6/2002
From: Lovelock, NV, USA
Status: offline 		Since I don't get enough advice at the flying field...(ya know what I would do....)

I've been running 10% syn fuel in my ST G51, and nonsyn in my little O.S. 25fx, just because that's what I was told to do. But I cheated last week and ran the O.S. on the synthetic and it ran just fine, did I hurt it?

So I'd like to know when and where and how much nitro, etc. to use synthetic and non. I was told it was okay for ringed engines but not for the non-ringed.

Please help me set this straight!
       Post #: 1

Synthetic and non for ringed and non engines - 11/6/2002 7:48:59 AM   
downunder-RCU



Posts: 1125
Joined: 12/27/2001
From: Adelaide, South Australia
Status: offline 		You probably didn't damage the OS so long as you didn't go lean. As a rule of thumb, if in doubt use some castor. I use 20% castor in all my engines (including my ST51) but that's just my personal preference.

(in reply to Desert Toad)
       Post #: 2

Castor 'Straight' - 11/24/2002 3:19:04 AM   
StarskiPZ


 

Posts: 256
Joined: 11/10/2002
From: cheshire, UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline 		Good to hear somebody else using good old 20% castor fuel!

I've use various brands, with generaly 0-5% nitro, and engines
seem to last & last. Plus - it's CHEAP!

The downside is the messy exhaust as the castor oil does not get
burned in combustion - so position you exhaust carefully...

You can't go wrong with castor - unless you leave the engine un-
used, leaving remaining oil to gum-up & harden. I use general vehicle lube as an 'after-run' if I know the engine is gonna have a 'rest'.

Less Twiddling = More Flying!

(in reply to Desert Toad)
       Post #: 3

Synthetic - 11/27/2002 8:45:16 AM   
Robotech



Posts: 806
Joined: 1/17/2002
From: Pine Bluff, AR,
Status: offline 		I've never run anything in my engines but Cool Power synthetic and they all run perfectly, show no wear and they're clean and shiney inside and out. No bean oil sludge and stains for me!

(in reply to Desert Toad)
       Post #: 4

OIL - 11/29/2002 5:20:16 AM   
StarskiPZ


 

Posts: 256
Joined: 11/10/2002
From: cheshire, UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline 		OK, i'll give synthetic a run...

But thes days theres quite a choice, without stating brandnames such as 'Coolpower' - which I take is 100% synthetic, are there alternative mineral oils, as oposed to the 'Vegie' Castor oil?

Ignoring the castor oil 'sludge', an oil giving the best lubrication should in theory be supplied more 'diluted' in the fuel mixture??
ie moving from 20% castor oil content, to say 15% synthetic??

This could give you more ooomph?


So for racers, is this a case of who dares wins?

(in reply to Desert Toad)
       Post #: 5

Synthetic and non for ringed and non engines - 11/29/2002 5:26:06 AM   
C_Watkins



Posts: 1069
Joined: 6/22/2002
From: Douglasville, GA, USA
Status: offline 		Don't be confused... the castor is the superior lube.
The synthetic burns off at a lower temperature. That fact can't be denied.
Yes, less lube will give you more oomph, to a point.
It's not necessarily a bad thing to run synthetic, or to run less lube, but you do
want to ensure that your tuning is absolutely spot-on, as a "lean run" on less oil,
or on synthetic, could mean that you've wasted an engine that castor would've saved

As for your "who dares, wins"... sometimes, that's exactly the case!
As with any form of racing, it's always a matter of how fast you can afford to go.
Sometimes speed comes at a reliability hit. You just have to decide what's important to you.

1)Speed
2)Reliability
3)Low-cost

Pick any two of the above, is the general rule, when it comes to any type competition engines.

< Message edited by C_Watkins -- Nov 29 2002 12:33AM >

(in reply to Desert Toad)
       Post #: 6

oil - 11/29/2002 5:36:02 AM   
StarskiPZ


 

Posts: 256
Joined: 11/10/2002
From: cheshire, UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline 		Thanks CW

I understand the lean run problem with synthetic oils, but I was thinking of the long term effects.

And I can certainly vouch for engine durability when used with castor oil.

So if I switched to a 'superior' modern synthetic in a well tuned engine, I should be able to reduce the oil content to some degree. I would expect the engine to show signs of over-heating if you were too 'mean' with the oil?

Not that I've tried, but I bet some1 has....

(in reply to Desert Toad)
       Post #: 7

Synthetic and non for ringed and non engines - 11/29/2002 5:44:24 AM   
C_Watkins



Posts: 1069
Joined: 6/22/2002
From: Douglasville, GA, USA
Status: offline 		Usually, you'd start seeing black gunk in the exhaust.
You could monitor the head temp, and keep from overdoing it that way.

(in reply to Desert Toad)
       Post #: 8

Synthetic and non for ringed and non engines - 11/29/2002 6:02:47 AM   
StarskiPZ


 

Posts: 256
Joined: 11/10/2002
From: cheshire, UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline 		OIL

Is this 'black gunk' the synthetic oil being truely burnt up, and I would understand this to be the case with castor oils too?

(in reply to Desert Toad)
       Post #: 9

Synthetic and non for ringed and non engines - 11/29/2002 6:23:38 AM   
C_Watkins



Posts: 1069
Joined: 6/22/2002
From: Douglasville, GA, USA
Status: offline 		No, the black gunk is the result of metal wear, once you've gone too far.

(in reply to Desert Toad)
       Post #: 10

Black Gunge - 11/29/2002 6:36:02 AM   
StarskiPZ


 

Posts: 256
Joined: 11/10/2002
From: cheshire, UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline 		I see...
Well no signs of this, and I'll keep it that way!


Thanks for the chat / info !

(in reply to Desert Toad)
       Post #: 11

Synthetic - 11/29/2002 10:29:16 AM   
Robotech



Posts: 806
Joined: 1/17/2002
From: Pine Bluff, AR,
Status: offline 		Given that synthetic burns off at a lower temp it would seem to me that you are giving up a more powerful cleaner engine to protect yourself from an improperly tuned engine. Let's face it, it's not rocket science to tune an engine not to run lean unless the motor is defective in some way and not able to be tuned properly in which case you need to fix it or chunk it anyway.

Either way it's nice to have a choice. Whatever works for you is best.

(in reply to Desert Toad)
       Post #: 12

Synthetic and non for ringed and non engines - 11/30/2002 12:42:20 AM   
StarskiPZ


 

Posts: 256
Joined: 11/10/2002
From: cheshire, UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline 		Well no!
All is fine at the moment on the castor oil 20% mix, and I've had the engine over 10 years!

I was just thinking about changing to synthetic, and wanted to know the merits of its use other then a cleaner exhaust!

I do not need any more power, as the model is slightly over-powered. Hence I don't need to use added nitro in the mix. The engine starts fine, and is inclined at about 45 degrees.

When previously used upside-down, starting was problematical because of oil / fuel pooling in the head whilst the model was static.

Cheers!

(in reply to Desert Toad)
       Post #: 13

Synthetic and non for ringed and non engines - 11/30/2002 3:54:48 AM   
downunder-RCU



Posts: 1125
Joined: 12/27/2001
From: Adelaide, South Australia
Status: offline 		As far as I know there's only one other benefit of using synthetics. Castor won't mix with fuels containing more than about 50% nitro

I must admit I can't understand why synthetics are thought to be so good because they burn off more easily. If it burns then it's using up some of the oxygen that would be better used by the methanol/nitro. But even the world's best engine tuner can have a lean run...all that's needed is for the muffler pressure line to fall off or get blocked. Instant very lean..the liner temp soars and the oil flashes into vapour. Of course, if you're using a mix of castor and synthetic then the castor will stay on the liner much longer

(in reply to Desert Toad)
       Post #: 14

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