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All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> S.P.A.D. Aircraft - Coroplast design >> How rough can these things be and still fly/Deb wing is killing me! Page: [1]

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How rough can these things be and still fly/Deb wing is... - 11/4/2005 6:02:43 AM   
xray328


 

Posts: 561
Joined: 11/17/2004
From: Shorewood, IL, USA
Status: offline 		I'm having a heck of a time with the Deb wing. First, after spending $15 on a sheet of Coroplast I cut the wing panels with the flutes facing the wrong direction. <---me after I realized that one. But now I'm struggling with the ailerons. You have to cut them at an angle and the cuts are coming out pretty rough, even with everything clamped down. How rough can the surfaces be and have this thing still fly decent? This has been an all day ordeal starting at noon when I bought the parts. I can't believe some of you are pulling the off in 15 minutes! Thats amazing!!!
       Post #: 1

RE: How rough can these things be and still fly/Deb win... - 11/4/2005 6:47:46 AM   
KyFBCGuy


 

Posts: 66
Joined: 11/19/2004
From: Paducah, KY, USA
Status: offline 		Ok... Been there too... I will try to help you as best as i can.

First thing is TAKE YOUR TIME!!! Rushing is the worse thing you can do while building a SPAD.
Think things out well and thoroughly.

Heres what i did.

Cut your wing panels, with the flutes going the correct direction. Draw out the lines for the folds and
spars on the inside of the wing panel. Use a black sharpie marker, and label the lines so you know what they are!
Next thing you want to do is to pre-fold your leading edge of the wing. I use a large heavy board to use as an edge
when i fold the leading edge. The board is a 48" piece of 3/4" dense particle board. Lay the edge of the board
on your line that is where you fold the leading edge. I use a strong metal ruler to score the flutes to make them bend easier.
Run the corner of the ruler along the edge of the board following your line. Once you have the line scored, now you will
bend it up ward. I kneel on the board to hold it down while i bend the leading edge. Work the edge upward slowly.
If it is done correctly, you will get a very straight neat edge on your wing.

Now its time to glue the spars down .
DONT FORGET THE AILERONS!!
Make sure you sand the contact area and then clean it with 91% rubbing alcohol. Clean it twice. Coarse black sandpaper
works great for this. Lay a bead of CA (your choice) on the bottom of the spar and set it down on the line. Hold it down until the
glue bonds to the coro. Use the same procedure for the other spar

Folding the wing... the fun part...

I built a jig to hold the wing down out of a 3/4" board and a steel angle iron. Bolt the angle iron to the edge of the board
so you can slide the leading edge of the wing into it to hold the wing flat. BEFORE YOU GLUE IT...prebend the wing section
that you are going to glue. I use weight.. lots of it. I bend the wing over and place 4 .30 cal ammo cans (filled with ammo)
to hold down the coro and prebend it. I find this makes it much easier to fold the wing and get a good bond on the top
of the wing. It has less pulling stress on it when is it prebent so it tends to stay down better than not being prebent.
Prep your surfaces by sanding and cleaning again and run your bead of CA on the top of the spars. Push the leading edge
of the wing forward into the jig channel and make sure it is even. Press down your wing top on to the glue and hold it down.
It should hold after about 30 sec. I use another board to press it down evenly. Once the board is flat on the top of the wing,
load up the weight to hold the whole thing down. I usually give it about 20 min before i move it. Better safe than sorry.
It is easier to sand and prep all your areas BEFORE You fold over the wing top. Just wipe with more alcohol in case you got
debris on the surfaces in the mean time. Your ailerons should already be glued on before you fold the wing.
Sand and prep your training edge, apply glue dots and hold down with the weight until dry.

Found a trick for making better straighter cuts.

Use a new razor blade when cutting. Use a ball point pen to make the cuts with. I find that the narrower line to follow will make
you do straighter cuts. Take your time and concentrate on making them straight. With a little practice it is pretty easy.

I hope that you are using the instructions on spadtothebone.com for the deb wing....good stuff!!

Hope this helps you out a little.

Jeff


(in reply to xray328)
       Post #: 2

RE: How rough can these things be and still fly/Deb win... - 11/4/2005 8:43:38 AM   
xray328


 

Posts: 561
Joined: 11/17/2004
From: Shorewood, IL, USA
Status: offline 		Wow! Thanks man!

How forgiving is this plane to a sloppy build?


(in reply to xray328)
       Post #: 3

RE: How rough can these things be and still fly/Deb wi... - 11/4/2005 9:50:34 AM   
Clean



Posts: 990
Joined: 4/19/2002
From: Parkville, MO, USA
Status: offline 		I've read good flight reports from spads with the ailerons glued to the top of the wing skin, not between the top and bottom wing skin. My airplanes that have been in combat all have some pretty goofy looking leading edges. Hasn't stopped them from garnishing more kills. Would a top pattern pilot notice the difference? Probably would, most definatly my guess. But will it trim out to fly straight and level. Yes. You porbably still have enough to build another wing later anyways. Take short sections of the stuff you cut wrong and practice folding those. The sharpie trick for marking is good practice. If you look in some of the build pages on the Spadtothebone site, you'll see these marks. That isn't just there for illustration for the build webpage, it's how we mawrk our wings up for production. Scoring the folds is done with a straight straightedge and I use a number 2 philips to score thoroughly the coro, core it all the way down to the bottom side. Then with the straight piece of ply, or in my case the edge of the building table, fold the coro gently till it pops and folds down your score. I then continue to fold the dang thing all the way flat on the other side and roll/press the leading edge to really get it to lay as flat as possible. It's like he said, relieve the stresses and it will glue better Open the coro up, flame the mating surfaces, glue down the spars, glue on top of the spars and fold the coro down to touch em, then I put a I beam shaped level on top of the coro over the spars and weight it down and walk off for a while, sometimes a week, I get little snippets of building time. 5 minutes isn't too bad though for CA. The glue will be fully cured and you can move on to gluing the ailerons on. Again, glue and weight, glue and weight, then glue on top of the rons and lay the level over the joint, weight it down, and wait. It's done really save sticking the servo and rods on. Doesn't have to take long, took about a week and a half last time I did it. Course I glued the spars on and while waiting for the glue to setup I went out and mowed the grass, and went to work about 4 times.

_____________________________

From Somewhere near Parkville, Mo.
William Crane (aka Mr Clean) Rever Brother #168 Time Man of the Year

(in reply to xray328)
       Post #: 4

RE: How rough can these things be and still fly/Deb wi... - 11/4/2005 5:25:13 PM   
xray328


 

Posts: 561
Joined: 11/17/2004
From: Shorewood, IL, USA
Status: offline 		Thanks for all the help guys! Heres where I am do far, hows it look?


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(in reply to Clean)
       Post #: 5

RE: How rough can these things be and still fly/Deb wi... - 11/4/2005 7:47:59 PM   
Muldoer


 

Posts: 115
Joined: 5/10/2005
From: , QC, CANADA
Status: offline 		Looking good xray.

(in reply to xray328)
       Post #: 6

RE: How rough can these things be and still fly/Deb wi... - 11/4/2005 8:45:23 PM   
Gringo Flyer



Posts: 2173
Joined: 1/16/2004
From: Formosa, ARGENTINA
Status: offline 		It takes a little while to get the SPAD building technique down but after a plane or 2 it gets a lot easier.

As far as a sloppy build and how it will fly, it just depends. My first SPAD, a debut, was a sloppy build and it was really hard to fly. I ended up having to make a new wing for it. Good thing is is that I built another wing in just a few hours.

Its all just part of the learning process.


_____________________________

"Courage is being scared to death...and saddling up anyway."---John Wayne

(in reply to Muldoer)
       Post #: 7

RE: How rough can these things be and still fly/Deb wi... - 11/5/2005 2:28:43 AM   
O2man



Posts: 212
Joined: 4/5/2003
From: Selah, WA, USA
Status: offline 		Not bad for a guy worried about how rough a wing might be! Good looking work.

_____________________________

Still learning more than I forget,
and that's the way I remember it.

www.spadflyer.com

(in reply to xray328)
       Post #: 8

RE: How rough can these things be and still fly/Deb wi... - 11/5/2005 2:43:42 AM   
xray328


 

Posts: 561
Joined: 11/17/2004
From: Shorewood, IL, USA
Status: offline 		Hey thanks! I was worried because some of my cuts have a little wiggle in them, especially the ailerons. But if you guys think what I've done so far is ok, I'm alot less worried. Thanks again for all the help!

(in reply to O2man)
       Post #: 9

RE: How rough can these things be and still fly/Deb wi... - 11/23/2005 2:32:32 PM   
martno1fan



Posts: 7093
Joined: 1/20/2005
From: blackpool, UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline 		looks good exray heres my dps wing 1st build too ,but i guess its actually a dominator wing as it has two spars and is made from one piece of coro 3mill folded over !!.[image][/image]

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_____________________________

im not argumentative im just missunderstood

(in reply to xray328)
       Post #: 10

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