RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1  
View related threads: (in this forum | in all forums)

Tower Hobbies
Enter up to 4 keywords or Tower stock numbers
Logged in as Guest



Users viewing this topic: none
  Printable Version
       



All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> Sport Flying >> RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1 Page: <<   < prev  7 8 9 10 11 12 [13] 14 15 16   next >   >>  

Login
Message << Older Topic   Newer Topic >>
RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1 - 9/12/2007 2:34:19 AM   
eurekame


 

Posts: 21
Joined: 3/26/2006
From: oviedo, FL, USA
Status: offline
Well, I posted on the bottom of page 14 on my second Shrike... The Super tigre was an unknown engine I got in a trade. I could not get it to hold a mixture. Turns out the carb is very very worn...Sooo I now have a Rossi .45 and a tuned pipe installed.... now it should move.......fast.... It was recomended to use a 8.75 x 7.5 prop. Wow, I hope my knees stop shaking when it gets in the air.

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize

(in reply to RC-Captain)
       Post #: 301

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1 - 9/12/2007 5:05:53 AM   
RC-Captain



Posts: 2963
Joined: 11/12/2002
From: RCHill, NJ, USA
Status: offline
is that a new Rossi ? you shopuld hit about 130 - 150 mph

CAP

_____________________________

I finally broke bread and bought a real charger , THE TRITON 2............

(in reply to eurekame)
       Post #: 302

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1 - 9/24/2007 2:11:52 PM   
WMB


 

Posts: 748
Joined: 10/5/2002
From: Great Falls, MT, USA
Status: online
Hi all, I started hacking on my Shrike 10 last night. Prepping for 25FX transplant. It presently has an HS81 servo for the elevator, will this be enough for the 25? First flights will be with a 9x5 prop, what is a good speed prop for this combo?
Any other tips for this one? Thanks, MikeB

(in reply to RC-Captain)
       Post #: 303

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1 - 9/26/2007 3:34:29 AM   
dzbum



Posts: 92
Joined: 8/2/2004
From: Barnstead, NH, USA
Status: offline
Hi there,
I am wanting to join the Shrike club. I fly from a pretty rough field for part of the year that is covered in snow for another part of the year. I like the Idea of the shrike for a good fun winter plane that can be hand launched and land on its belly in the snow. That said I am looking for some advise as what mods to make when building. I have a Rossi 45 ( older one ) that needs a muffler so I think a small pipe is in order. Obviously I am thinking of the 40 size ( maybe not that obvious though as see some pretty big motors on pretty small planes ). The Rossi is pretty heavy so it sounds like I will need to move the firewall back 3/4"- 1". (Advise on how much gladly accepted). I have also seen many posts where people have used Spruce spars and doubled up the spars through the fuselage. ( I think both are a good idea for such a small mod.) I like the hatch Idea under the tank area also. I am also thinking that adding thin ply to the belly may be a good idea for rough field / Ice & snow use also. I notice there is much discussion about elevator size and material. I was planning on taking a look at the stock material once my kit arrives and making a decision about that one. Any advice would be much appreciated.

(in reply to eurekame)
       Post #: 304

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1 - 9/28/2007 1:15:20 AM   
eurekame


 

Posts: 21
Joined: 3/26/2006
From: oviedo, FL, USA
Status: offline
Oh my, This is fast.....
RcCaptain: The Rossi is not new but in good shape. It only needed slight adjustment to "come up on pipe" What a rush.. Now I am a true speed addict.
dzbum: I can only speak from my own shrikes. The second one was miles ahead of the first.... my mods are :
Firewall moved back 1/4 inch. Just enough to allow the nose to to clear.
One vertical stab. plenty stable and it reduced weight.
Lightning holes in the fuse sides.
Wing tips are just 1/4 inch balsa.
Reduced the width of the sheeting on the wings.
The belly is bass with the grain running the lenth, no plastic or wood runner.
2 servos for the the ailerons. sunk into the wing further than stock.
Added rudder servo because I wanted a dolly for take off. Never thought I would use it in flight But oh vertical snap rolls are a rush.
The rudder and the elevator are one bay further to the back.
The hatch is just balsa sheet tabbed in the back and latched bent down in the front.
Added 3/8 to length of elevator. very pleased with it authority and response.
The all up weight (less fuel) is 4.3 pounds.
No reinforcing of the spars. Just consistant and sufficiant glue for all joints.




(in reply to dzbum)
       Post #: 305

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1 - 9/28/2007 1:59:05 AM   
RC-Captain



Posts: 2963
Joined: 11/12/2002
From: RCHill, NJ, USA
Status: offline

quote:

ORIGINAL: WMB

Hi all, I started hacking on my Shrike 10 last night. Prepping for 25FX transplant. It presently has an HS81 servo for the elevator, will this be enough for the 25? First flights will be with a 9x5 prop, what is a good speed prop for this combo?
Any other tips for this one? Thanks, MikeB



I would not use this servo do to the size of the gears. Also to actually know which servos you can use , we I need to know the estimated AUW for your shrike and also your flying style. 9x5 should be nice , but you may want more pitch for easier landings. GL on your SHRIKE

CAP

_____________________________

I finally broke bread and bought a real charger , THE TRITON 2............

(in reply to WMB)
       Post #: 306

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1 - 9/28/2007 2:05:38 AM   
RC-Captain



Posts: 2963
Joined: 11/12/2002
From: RCHill, NJ, USA
Status: offline

quote:

ORIGINAL: dzbum

Hi there,
I am wanting to join the Shrike club. I fly from a pretty rough field for part of the year that is covered in snow for another part of the year. I like the Idea of the shrike for a good fun winter plane that can be hand launched and land on its belly in the snow. That said I am looking for some advise as what mods to make when building. I have a Rossi 45 ( older one ) that needs a muffler so I think a small pipe is in order. Obviously I am thinking of the 40 size ( maybe not that obvious though as see some pretty big motors on pretty small planes ). The Rossi is pretty heavy so it sounds like I will need to move the firewall back 3/4"- 1". (Advise on how much gladly accepted). I have also seen many posts where people have used Spruce spars and doubled up the spars through the fuselage. ( I think both are a good idea for such a small mod.) I like the hatch Idea under the tank area also. I am also thinking that adding thin ply to the belly may be a good idea for rough field / Ice & snow use also. I notice there is much discussion about elevator size and material. I was planning on taking a look at the stock material once my kit arrives and making a decision about that one. Any advice would be much appreciated.


Welcome to the club dzbum. As far as landing in the snow I personally would not attempt this. As far as MODS read this thread and use what makes sense. On my shrike , I didn't do any modifications at first. After a few flights with the APS .15 on th enose I put a MAG .28 on the nose and what a difference in flight characteristics. The elevator would be a definite MOD for using a bigger engine. just make the width bigger for better response. The last thing I would do if you plane on flying in the snow , is to water proof everything. GL on your SHRIKE.

CAP

_____________________________

I finally broke bread and bought a real charger , THE TRITON 2............

(in reply to dzbum)
       Post #: 307

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1 - 9/28/2007 4:53:28 AM   
WMB


 

Posts: 748
Joined: 10/5/2002
From: Great Falls, MT, USA
Status: online
I'm thinking about the HS225 for the elevator servo. I tend to fly fairly smooth, once in awhile I'll do the bank and yank with it. Favorite manuevor is the 1/2 reverse cuban eight coming across the runway after leveling out. Full throttle of course, just need more throttle.

Last night I removed the existing firewall and top of the fuse. New firewall will be located 1-1/8" further back than original. Hinges will get sealed. i hope to keep weight at 38 oz or less, was at 33 oz.

I was looking at the APC props online, great selection. Want it as fast as possible while still being able to hand launch. May get a pipe for it down the road. I can also borrow the 32 in my Kobra if need be.

Take care, MikeB

(in reply to RC-Captain)
       Post #: 308

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1 - 9/30/2007 8:25:56 PM   
dzbum



Posts: 92
Joined: 8/2/2004
From: Barnstead, NH, USA
Status: offline
eurekame,
Thanks for the advise, pretty much what I was thinking except for the single vertical Stab. Which sound like a good idea if it's plenty stable. What size did you make your single one?
I have been looking at pipes and headers for my Rossi, and have come the conclusion "just because I have it" may not make it the best choice of motor, mainly because of weight and price of the pipe. I like the look of the Norvel AX-40. Its really light. I think it may be a good fit for the 40 size Shrike. Anyone got any experience with this motor? I am not worried about the snow, its usually so cold here in the winter that water proofing is not an issue, just blow off the snow before you bring it inside, I like to put plenty of fuel proofing on my models anyway. My kit has not arrived yet but I have cleared my bench in readiness. I need to decide on the motor ASAP as what I use will determine where the firewall goes.

< Message edited by dzbum -- 9/30/2007 11:25:51 PM >

(in reply to RC-Captain)
       Post #: 309

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1 - 9/30/2007 8:30:40 PM   
RC-Captain



Posts: 2963
Joined: 11/12/2002
From: RCHill, NJ, USA
Status: offline
You may have already went to this site to find a pipe for your ROSSI but here is the link anyway.


http://shop.vendio.com/RossiEnginesUSA/home.html

I was shock when I found this site. The REP is very cooperative. If you ask he may give you a break down on a tuned pipe.



CAP


< Message edited by RC-Captain -- 9/30/2007 8:36:12 PM >


_____________________________

I finally broke bread and bought a real charger , THE TRITON 2............

(in reply to dzbum)
       Post #: 310

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1 - 9/30/2007 8:41:10 PM   
dzbum



Posts: 92
Joined: 8/2/2004
From: Barnstead, NH, USA
Status: offline
CAP,
thanks for the info. Yes I had seen this site, they sell on e-bay also, seem like fair prices.

I appreciate the response.

DZbum

(in reply to RC-Captain)
       Post #: 311

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1 - 10/1/2007 2:17:19 AM   
eurekame


 

Posts: 21
Joined: 3/26/2006
From: oviedo, FL, USA
Status: offline
dzbum: The verticle stab has a lenth of 7.5 and a hight of 7.5. The rudder is 3 inches at the longest point.

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize

(in reply to dzbum)
       Post #: 312

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1 - 10/6/2007 7:33:54 PM   
dzbum



Posts: 92
Joined: 8/2/2004
From: Barnstead, NH, USA
Status: offline
Looks, good. I am now looking at lighter motors. One being considered now is the K&B .61 Twister Plenty of power ( same as a hot .40 ) 14.25 oz. This is lighter than my Rossi and about the same power. I think a 60 may be the way to go. Anyone tried this ?

< Message edited by dzbum -- 10/6/2007 8:28:29 PM >

(in reply to eurekame)
       Post #: 313

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1 - 10/7/2007 3:00:36 PM   
johnc1go


 

Posts: 123
Joined: 12/11/2002
From: South Bend, IN, USA
Status: offline
I had a control issue similiar to the one andrew speaks of with his shrike. Upon pulling out of a full power dive, the airplane would pitch up violently, dropping the right wing 90 degrees. I found that diving more shallow and reducing speed solved the problem, but I still needed to address it. I'm thinking a high speed tip stall on the right wing. I carefully inspected both wings for warps, no warping to be found. I still felt I had to do something, so I ironed in a sligh amount of washout into the right wing tip. The next, back at the flying field, same thing problem. Well, I just gave up and learned how to deal with it. Recently, I upgraded from 72 mhz to spread spectrum.

Any of us who build shrikes understand the problem routing the reciever antenna. When I was on 72, I ran my wire out the needle valve side of the fusealage, above the wing and through a little hole I drilled in the bottom of the left tail fin. This would allow for about 1 foot of wire to trail out behind the plane. Upon switching to spread spectrum, the antenna issue was eliminated as I could keep the much shorter antannae inside the airplane. Walla.....my "tip stall" problem was suddenly solved. I was mistaking a radio glitch for a tip stall. Perhaps the glitch was brought on by the exposed antenna wire oscillating in a certain way during high g manuevers, I don't know, I do know that I no longer have the problem and that high altitude split S's are much more fun.

< Message edited by johnc1go -- 10/7/2007 3:08:28 PM >

(in reply to andrewguy1113@cox.net)
       Post #: 314

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1 - 10/7/2007 3:11:04 PM