RE: 24 volt battery  
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RE: 24 volt battery - 11/19/2005 8:30:56 PM   
AS-EE


 

Posts: 191
Joined: 8/25/2005
From: Greenville, SC, USA
Status: offline
quote:

Actually, NiCds are better than lead acid for starter motor power as the voltage will drop less under a heavy load.


Nope, your wrong EloyM, you can surge many times more current out of a lead acid without risk of damage. You try that with a Nicad then you will have a real mess. I even tested this by hooking up a 50 amp fuse for amplifers across my Tysonic gell cell and the fuse blew instantly. I have not tested this with a 12v Nicad, but I sure can guarantee you that the Nicad will overheat and leak electrolyte if you try to hook a 50 amp fuse across it.

Also why do you think cars or any other vehicle for that matter use lead acid batteries? It it because of the huge current surge that they can supply. No other battery is capable of SAFELY providing high surge currents.


(in reply to EloyM)
       Post #: 26

RE: 24 volt battery - 11/19/2005 8:57:07 PM   
tholmes345


 

Posts: 2
Joined: 1/1/2003
From: SC
Status: offline 		Boy can you guys make a mountain out of a mole hill. ALLELECTRONICS.com has many batteries that are suitable for this application. With a little ceativity they can be wire and swithed for either 12V or 24V operation.

OK "ney sayers" lets hear the negativity for the safety of this application. The type of switch should include a center position where both batteries are in the off position.

Good luck on the battery search.

(in reply to bigtroutdog)
       Post #: 27

RE: 24 volt battery - 11/19/2005 9:03:39 PM   
AS-EE


 

Posts: 191
Joined: 8/25/2005
From: Greenville, SC, USA
Status: offline 		Thats where I got my Tysonic. Its a real good cheap place.

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       Post #: 28

RE: 24 volt battery - 11/19/2005 10:35:05 PM   
bigtroutdog


 

Posts: 64
Joined: 9/20/2005
From: Reno, NV, USA
Status: offline 		EloyM I went to www.cermark.com I cant find those batteries under the stock # that you indicated.

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       Post #: 29

RE: 24 volt battery - 11/20/2005 12:56:51 AM   
Omaha_RC_Flyer



Posts: 489
Joined: 3/7/2004
From: Omaha, NE, USA
Status: offline 		Here you go bigtroutdog

12V/14A Sanyo Nicad F size cells w/ Charger System

24V/7A Sanyo Nicad F size cells w/ Charger System

Later,
Omaha

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RE: 24 volt battery - 11/24/2005 1:19:39 AM   
airroy



Posts: 60
Joined: 12/23/2003
From: Sewell, NJ, USA
Status: offline 		AS-EE,

A question if I may.

I have a Hangar 9 12v Power Pro starter with a 12v/ 7A gel cell battery. After charging the battery reads about 13v or so.
With my meter connected to the + and - leads that come from the battery and go to the starter, when I press the button to turn on the starter and stop the starter hub with my hand the voltage drops to about 3.5 vdc. Is this an indication of something bad or is it normal.

Happy Thanksgiving !

When you get some time let me know what you think. Your opinion is much appreciated.

Regards,
Airroy




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       Post #: 31

RE: 24 volt battery - 11/25/2005 1:58:42 AM   
AS-EE


 

Posts: 191
Joined: 8/25/2005
From: Greenville, SC, USA
Status: offline 		You mean to tell me that you can stop that starter while it is turning? If so then you have a problem because that would have easily ripped skin off your hand. I suspect a bad switch or the contacts on the switch have lots of soot build up. This will lead to high electrical resistance. If there was no high limiting electrical resistance then you should have read about 0 volts at the battery terminals if you locked down the starter from turning since those starters use thick magnet wire with a resistance of the armature as a result of using thick magnet wire in the miliohm range.


Here is what you need to do:

1) Set the DMM to OHMS
2) Connect the probes to the aligator clips
3) Push the starter switch and read what resistance value is displayed

(in reply to airroy)
       Post #: 32

RE: 24 volt battery - 11/25/2005 6:42:22 PM   
airroy



Posts: 60
Joined: 12/23/2003
From: Sewell, NJ, USA
Status: offline 		AS-EE

Thanks for your responce.

I did as you suggested. I read .6 to .7 ohm when pressing the switch. Is this good?

Airroy

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       Post #: 33

RE: 24 volt battery - 11/25/2005 9:30:20 PM   
airroy



Posts: 60
Joined: 12/23/2003
From: Sewell, NJ, USA
Status: offline 		Omaha,

I liked your idea so much I went to Lowes and picked up the same box. I bought 2 12v / 7A lead acids at Radio Shack.

I do have some questions...

What gauge wire did you use?
What method do you use to charge the 2 batteries.

Thanks for your help.

Airroy

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..failure to plan, is to plan for failure...

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       Post #: 34

RE: 24 volt battery - 11/26/2005 3:32:55 AM   
AS-EE


 

Posts: 191
Joined: 8/25/2005
From: Greenville, SC, USA
Status: offline
quote:

AS-EE

Thanks for your response.

I did as you suggested. I read .6 to .7 ohm when pressing the switch. Is this good?

Airroy



Does your starter seem to "skip" or in other words does it seem to speed up and slow down? This can sometimes be the cause if some of the commutator bars are dirty or if the magnet wire connecting to one of the commutator bars is damaged.


See, the thing is, I just can't believe that you easily stopped it while it was turning because that really would have given you a serious skin burn or ripped it off. That starter has 248 OZ-IN of torque which is equivalent to about 1.29 FT-LBS of torque.

(in reply to airroy)
       Post #: 35

RE: 24 volt battery - 11/26/2005 2:19:09 PM   
airroy



Posts: 60
Joined: 12/23/2003
From: Sewell, NJ, USA
Status: offline 		AS-EE,

No the starter doesn't skip. It runs smooth. Just seems to have very little umph.

Airroy

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       Post #: 36

RE: 24 volt battery - 11/27/2005 3:27:51 AM   
JNorton



Posts: 3133
Joined: 1/29/2002
From: Montague, MI, USA
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: airroy
I have a Hangar 9 12v Power Pro starter with a 12v/ 7A gel cell battery. After charging the battery reads about 13v or so.
With my meter connected to the + and - leads that come from the battery and go to the starter, when I press the button to turn on the starter and stop the starter hub with my hand the voltage drops to about 3.5 vdc. Is this an indication of something bad or is it normal.

Where did you have the leads hooked to? If directly to the battery this reading would indicate a bad battery with high internal resistance that needs to be replaced.

If you connected it to the leads themselves then you probably have a bad connection to the battery itself that is causing the high voltage drop. One way to find out is to put the meter on the battery terminal and the lead to the starter. Then use the starter, if you see voltage it is a drop caused by a bad connection. Do this on both the positive and negative leads and you should find which one is bad. You can also do this at the switch. A normal reading will be under .2 volts. You will have to load the starter with your hand to cause a current draw to see this more easily.

You also stated that the starter switch read .6 to .7 ohms, thats too much. It should be .1 to .2 ohms certainly not more than .5. Too get an accurate reading put your DVM leads together for a reading of just the leads. Most leads will read .2 to .3 ohms, this reading must then be subtracted to get the true reading at the switch.

John

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(in reply to airroy)
       Post #: 37

RE: 24 volt battery - 11/27/2005 4:48:05 PM   
Omaha_RC_Flyer



Posts: 489
Joined: 3/7/2004
From: Omaha, NE, USA
Status: offline 		airroy,

I used some left over 16 AWG wire that I had picked up from Radio Shack to make charge leads with, for my lithium batteries. I have two separate chargers that I use, one is a standard charger like Tower Hobbies sells and the other is a float charger I pick up on sale for $4.99 from Harbor Freight tools . Plug one charger into one side and the other charger into the other side. See attached photo.


Later,
Omaha

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< Message edited by Omaha_RC_Flyer -- 11/27/2005 4:58:51 PM >

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RE: 24 volt battery - 11/28/2005 3:16:19 PM   
airroy



Posts: 60
Joined: 12/23/2003
From: Sewell, NJ, USA
Status: offline 		Thanks Omaha..

Airroy

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       Post #: 39