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Joined: 1/11/2005 From: Riverhead,
NY, USA Status: offline
Bob, We used nylon hinges with removable cotter pins. I believe they were Dubro. The thought being we could install the hinges then unhinge the surfaces for covering and painting. Installing the cotter pins and bending the ends after the plane was finished took care and patience but we can now easily remove a flight control if we ever need to.
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Joined: 2/24/2002 From: Harrisonburg,
VA, USA Status: offline
I'm using the same hinges, Dubro 1/4 scale. I had planned on using Klett large hinges, but we can't find them anywhere. I had about 6 on the wall that I've had for some years, but I'm going with the Dubro cotter pin ones. I believe they will be fine. Randy
Posts: 971
Joined: 2/24/2002 From: Harrisonburg,
VA, USA Status: offline
............................What are you using for the servo rails?
Bob, ========I using 1/2 x 1/2 hardwood for the rails. I will post some pics later of how I did them. Using 1 1/4 scale servo per aileron, and a high torque for each elevator. Standard ball bearing servo for the rudder. got my heavy duty servo extensions ordered today. I plan on running 6 volt packs on this.
...............It will be a long time before spring gets here in Minnesota.
=======Yea, we'll probably be into our mowing season before you see the ground!
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Joined: 2/24/2002 From: Harrisonburg,
VA, USA Status: offline
These are the pics of the servo mount rails. The forward aileron rail butts against the spar, and the rear one is kind of built out from the rear spar to suit the servo. the stab/elevator servo rails are butted against one of the stab mount plates. I also "mortised" them into the ribs all the way across, and extended them just beyond the end ribs for a little added support. I guess at this stage each individual builder can install them how they see fit. I still believe I can get the rudder servo in the bottom of the stab also. I'm going to "dry fit" all servos and linkages tomorrow to see for sure I don't/won't have any interference. If it looks good, I'll probably go ahead and fit that one in. Randy
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Joined: 2/24/2002 From: Harrisonburg,
VA, USA Status: offline
Got the back end arranged today. Managed to get the rudder servo in the bottom of the stab. Thought for a minute I had a problem with the control rod passing over the mounting plate, but It can be installed like that. Making the connections might be interesting. I'm now considering putting a small hatch forward of the stab in the top of the fuse for that purpose. Mount the stab, then make the connections thru the hatch. I'll put a hatch in if it's a convenience thing. When I go to the field, I want to get it together and fly! Taking more time in the pits for assembly isn't why I'm there. Got tomorrow to work that out. The other picture is the color scheme I'm going with. Orange, white and gray. I found that to be really good colors to see. That pic was taken May 17, 1981 of another Telemaster .40 that I had, the same one my son soloed on when he was 8 years old. (he just turned 30!) On his solo flight, he managed to fly it into a tree on final approach. Didn't hurt the plane, so I made him fly the pattern again. This time he missed the tree and landed fine. Randy
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Joined: 2/24/2002 From: Harrisonburg,
VA, USA Status: offline
Starting to finish up on some details now. What I did here isn't called for on the plans, it's just kind of the way I wanted to do it. I could see it might be difficult to plug in the servos while holding the stab assembly, so I made sort of a "chute" for the servo leads to go down into the rear fuse area, then put a door in the left side to gain access to them. I can drop the wires down the chute and go ahead and bolt on the stab, then make the connections and close the door. Completed all servo mounting, including aileron servos and hook ups. I used some Rocket City control horns and 4-40 rod on the ailerons. Also made template for engine mount, and drilled holes in firewall for engine. After the engine is mounted I'll drill the fuel line holes, etc. Randy
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Joined: 2/24/2002 From: Harrisonburg,
VA, USA Status: offline
how about posting a close-up of your engine installation.............................. =====Will post some pics of it later today. Yes, getting close to covering. The cowling in the background was what I was thinking about, but it just isn't going to work out. the hole for the prop shaft is too high. That one is off a H9 Taylorcraft that I recovered out of the trash can at the field and reworked. I may end up building my out of fiberglass if I can't find something suitable that I like. Randy
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Joined: 2/24/2002 From: Harrisonburg,
VA, USA Status: offline
Pics of the engine mounted. There is a spacer behind the engine. This is actually the template I made for marking and drilling the holes. I left it in place for a couple reasons: 1. To extend the prop shaft out another 1/4" . This engine doesn't come out quite where the plans show. 2. The spacer allows a little bit more clearance of the head from the firewall. 3. The bolts that came with the engine were for a 1/4" firewall. I got longer ones, and the spacer was needed so the bolts didn't bottom out in the crankcase. (or, I was too onery to saw them off-take your pick!!) Tank and fuel lines are installed. Need to decide where to put the external kill switch yet, and I'll be about ready to start covering. Randy
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Joined: 2/24/2002 From: Harrisonburg,
VA, USA Status: offline
Getting into the covering stages now. Wow! does this thing suck up the covering! Nice working with big pieces though. Should have more covering in before the weekend. Still got some details to do on the fuse yet, like locate the external kill switch, other switches, etc. Randy
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RE: Giant Telemaster Build - 
