GTX SlotCar
Posts: 2070
Joined: 10/7/2005 From: Gorham,
ME, USA Status: online
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quote:
ORIGINAL: thecheatscalc oops... I tried the mod for the controler, and used a nail file to remove the bumps I thought that little arm provided restance and therefore should be riding on the bar. ok, so now I miss the bumps, it just seems like they belong, and the controler's kinda broken without them.... gotta live with it now I guess. YONG, yes. that's fine, if you look at the flybar you can see that it should have two links, but, it doesn't as they cheaped out there, so, it works fine on either side. GTX, that's one nice spot for flying! that's almost more spacious than my garage! so, what procedures do you use to STOP THE HELI FROM SPINNING! it's really annoying to have to keep correcting, and, it makes it harder for others to fly it. I wonder what would happen if you switched the motor plugs (causing the top to spin slower) and then just flip the reverse switch for tail control.... (the motor plugs, or the blades would have to be switched so that the blades/ motor spins the correct way causing the blades to NOT blow down. You could glue a thin piece of rubber where the bumps were. Maybe your mom has a rubber grip pad for opening jars in the kitchen somewhere. It would give it added resistance and a little grip. Then when you correct the rudder, you're less apt to move the throttle. My heli needs some tail correction. I set the trim pot on the Rx so that I need full left trim when the heli is cold, and full right when it's hot. If that doesn't work for you, then the motors aren't matched good enough. Since the motors have different characteristics when you run them in reverse, you could put the front motor in back, and the back one in front. Then swap the + and - wires on them. Make sure you swap positions in the Rx, too. Since the timing of the motors will be different, they may match up better.
< Message edited by GTX SlotCar -- 1/6/2006 10:19:18 PM >
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