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Posts: 799
Joined: 6/13/2005 From: Antelope Valley,
CA, USA Status: offline
I'm almost done with the stab and elevator. Had to use 30min epoxy and it takes 12 hours to reach full bond strength. In the mean time, I'm redesigning the color scheme. I've narrowed it down to these two. What do you guys think?
Posts: 801
Joined: 2/18/2003 From: Bloomington, MN, USA Status: online
OK, now you guys really have me wanting to build a Skybolt. I think I may make it my winter project. Does anyone know if GP is planning to discontinue this kit? I see it is no longer being listed in Tower's sale flyers, although it is still listed online and on GP's website. I'm thinking I'd better act fast!
Mike, do you think a Saito 100 will be enough to power it with a smoke system?
Posts: 19375
Joined: 4/22/2002 From: Willmar,
MN, USA Status: offline
Hi Scott, I originally had an OS 91 (Pre Surpass) in mine and it flew very well. A Saito 100 would obviously be better. One thing I would suggest is to mount the servos in the rear to offset the weight of the smoker. It should work just fine.
Posts: 799
Joined: 6/13/2005 From: Antelope Valley,
CA, USA Status: offline
Mike,
Is it true that 21st Century Corvite Covering can stick to itself without making bubbles. If not, what is a way of layering coating without leaving bubbles?
Posts: 1219
Joined: 3/31/2004 From: Port Washington,
WI, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: Mods-R-Me
Mike,
Is it true that 21st Century Corvite Covering can stick to itself without making bubbles. If not, what is a way of layering coating without leaving bubbles?
Thanks,
Mods
I can't speak to 21st century, but if you are using Monokote, you can use windex to apply trim like a water transfer decal. Spray the surface, apply the trim and then use a credit card to squeegee out the excess. Finally seal the edges with an iron on low heat. Note that the windex method will not work on any covering other than Monokote, though. I've personally had very good luck with Ultracote using an iron set at 215-220 degrees and carefully working from the center outward to adhere the trim. Generally the bubbles occur when you trap the air by working from the edges inward. If you do get bubbles, just **** the center with a straight-pin and iron over it, working the trapped air out the pin hole. You can't se it after it's stuck.
Posts: 799
Joined: 6/13/2005 From: Antelope Valley,
CA, USA Status: offline
Thanks Krossk & Deadeye,
I'll give the monokote + windex + trim solvent method a try. I know I'm getting ahead of myself, but have to keep my mind occupied somehow while the glue dries- 1 hour left!
Posts: 19375
Joined: 4/22/2002 From: Willmar,
MN, USA Status: offline
I agree with the MonoKote choice here.
While I prefer to use Ultracote, with a color scheme like that, MonoKote would be my choice due to it's ability to work with Trim Solvent (Which is how I would do it)
If I were going to do that scheme, I would use a base of White ULTRAcoat (Since it's easier to work around curves), then I would apply the Blue and red using MonoKote and trim solvent.
One more thing, to avoid having the colors pile up, (Red over Blue over white) I would not put the blue under the red, but rather have a strip of blue on each side of the red. Also, leaving a 1/8" gap of white between them will really make them stand out.(See below)
One last thing... I don't care for MK's Metallic Red (Too Dark) but their Metallic Blue would look great on this!
Posts: 799
Joined: 6/13/2005 From: Antelope Valley,
CA, USA Status: offline
Thanks Mike
Funny how just a quarter inch makes that much difference. I've benn considering what design the have on the bottom of the wings. The checker pattern has been done so many times; I want to be original. Thru careful deliberation, I've settled on this. Haven't seen this at the flying field before! It looked appaling at first, but it matches the spinner/ primary color (red) and after a while it kinda grew on me.
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RE: 2nd Newbie Build- GP Super Skybolt - 
