Posts: 2339
Joined: 11/23/2002 From: College Station,
TX, USA Status: offline
Yeah, it was recommended for gluing the Titanium pushrods into the carbon fiber rod. They said you could also use epoxy or even medium CA. JB Weld is made for gluing metal to other materials so I figured that would be the best thing to use.
Posts: 701
Joined: 3/11/2005 From: Vicksburg, MS, USA Status: offline
It is for a smoke tap. I pluggd mine with a 6-32 allen head 1/2" bolt with a little red locktite on it to form a good seal. I did this on several other mufflers as well and they all worked fine. Don't try to put a hose with a clamp to close it off - it won't work!! Don't ask me how I know!!
Posts: 449
Joined: 2/13/2003 From: pleasant prairie,
WI, USA Status: offline
Thanks for the info on the muffler tap. I don't plan on using smoke so I will plug it like you said. I won't even try to put a line on it and then have it fail. (like you sort of mentioned) The only thing that makes me curious is that the muffler for smoke is advertised as such and supposedly cost more than mine. Oh Well........ I guess I got more than I bargained for. Thanks Bill
Posts: 2339
Joined: 11/23/2002 From: College Station,
TX, USA Status: offline
Well, they're different brands. I like Slimline the best, but they don't make a muffler for the MVVS/Evolution 58 and I didn't want to modify a DA 50 muffler. I finished up the Edge tonigh. She balanced right at 5" from the leading edge of the wing with my set up. I also redid the vent line since it cannot be plugged. I took flier's idea and drilled a hole in the bottom and glued the fuel tubing in. When I transport, I just plug the line and unplug it to fly. It has a filter between it to keep dirt in the air out of the tank and to help seal it up. When we test ran the engine last night, I lost two of the screws for the spinner. So, I went to the hardware store and bought some socket head screws like other people said to do. Hopefully I'll maiden tomorrow. As Captain Ron put it, "let's kick the tires and light the fires!"
Posts: 449
Joined: 2/13/2003 From: pleasant prairie,
WI, USA Status: offline
Nice job. I did notice one thing. I learned this from reading these threads. The overflow for the gas tank should loop around to the back of the tank and then out the same hole that you made in the picture. This prevents fuel from running directly out of the tank when running on down lines. I have to wait until spring to fly mine as the darn weather is too cold and the snow etc. I have not assembled the plane yet because it is supposed to be a Christmas present. Bill
Posts: 2339
Joined: 11/23/2002 From: College Station,
TX, USA Status: offline
Hmm, ok. I've never heard that. I basically used the reveiw by Joe Hunt as a reference on stuff like that and he didn't do that. But it does make sense. There is still too much snow on our field so I can do that today. I have plenty of tubing so it's no biggy.
Posts: 701
Joined: 3/11/2005 From: Vicksburg, MS, USA Status: offline
Ben, I have noticed that some of the "big boys" use that loop technique but I have never done it. I still have more than enough gas to fly as long as I can stand (about 15 min) per flight. So I don't see what the big deal is. I do make the intake line slightly longer than necessary to keep fuel going to the engine - but then again my downlines are short, very short!!
Posts: 2339
Joined: 11/23/2002 From: College Station,
TX, USA Status: offline
Yeah, I already modified it with the loop technique. It was no big deal to do and I won't have to worry about cleaning gas off of my airframe. That's one of the reason's I'm not going to be doing much glow anymore.
Posts: 2339
Joined: 11/23/2002 From: College Station,
TX, USA Status: offline
So i've been reading the thread dealing with the pull-pull cables rubing up against the former and thought that might be why my 5955TG was centering so poorly. Sure enough, a quick look with the maglite and I was off to the hobby store and to Sportsmans Warehouse. I used some antennae tubing to put in the holes I drilled in the former and ran some nylon coated steel braided leader material as the new cable. I just used the 45 lbs. test stuff because that looked like what DuBro had given me. I'm pretty sure it will be strong enough to. Now, when i'm at full deflection, both cables are tight! Recovered everything as it looks clean as new.
Posts: 84
Joined: 3/15/2005 From: Mt.Airy,
NC, USA Status: offline
Hey dude I see you are using metal pushrods on throttle and choke,you need to use nyrods on gas engines because of ignition rf will travel back those metal rods and you may have radio enterferance. Just trying to help.
Posts: 701
Joined: 3/11/2005 From: Vicksburg, MS, USA Status: offline
Down on the Deck also shows metal pushrods on both throttle and choke servos. I myself have that setup on two other planes and have unlimited (except by sight) range on both. As long as you use the plastic ball joints (i.e. plastic on both ends) the RF can't reach anything.
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RE: Got my NEW Edge - 
