Posts: 490
Joined: 4/3/2002 From: Piscataway, NJ, USA Status: offline
Time to get started on the next RCU review subject..........the Aviation Models 35% Yak 54! Guys, this is a large model.....for a 35% airplane it sure does take up some space! 107" wing span with 2223 squares of wing area. It is also 94" long from the tail to the front of the cowl. I made a valiant attempt to take a photo of the plane assembled but it took up a large amount of my living room! Here are a few shots but I couldn't quit get the entire plane in.
I'll try to keep the build consistent, but work does sometimes interfere . However, it looks like this is going to be a very straight forward assembly.
The equipment to be installed....DA100/MTW TDK75 cannisters, JR8611/8611a, (3)Duralite 3000mah Lipo and NEW Mini Powerbox, (very cool product), Dubro Hardware (cause I just prefer it in general), Mejlick 28x10 prop, 3W tail wheel. The provided hardware package is extensive and includes main wheels, a machined and polished spinner, all hinges (which are already in place and just need to be glued in), links/clevises, control horns (big ones), and all associated bolts and nuts. Oh yea...it is all SAE.
PaulP
< Message edited by Leardriver -- 12/6/2005 10:53:54 PM >
Posts: 78
Joined: 10/21/2002 From: Eagle,
ID, USA Status: offline
Wahoo!! I've always wanted a Yak, and have come within a hair of bringing one to the workbench a couple times. Please do keep the build pics coming. No matter how good the manufacturer is, there is ALWAYS something that you run into that you think "if I could start over I'd..". These build threads allow us to do that at the expense of your CA :-)
Nice pics too!
Mayday
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Posts: 490
Joined: 4/3/2002 From: Piscataway, NJ, USA Status: offline
Hey Mayday,
Well I am gonna do my best to keep things going! I have the plane up on it's gear and the front of the motorbox complete. Pics will be posted in a little while....stay tuned!
Posts: 490
Joined: 4/3/2002 From: Piscataway, NJ, USA Status: offline
Well here we go!
I got her up on the gear first just to make handle a little easier. The main gear comes drilled and ready to simply bolt up....very nice. It's a no brainer.
The tail wheel is basically as easy as it gets. First mark and drill you chosen tail wheel assembly. Next position it on the hardwood block on the tail and mark the location for the blind nuts. Next remove the access hatch that came taped to the side of the empenange which will give you access. One thing to note here......make sure you dill the hole hardwood block in the tail large enough to accommodate the blind nuts (read: larger than the screw) so the blind nut can be fully seated. The block is very hardwood and if not drilled so the blind nut can easily seat itself than you risk cracking something when you attempt to tighten. I know it is a simple thing but could be overlooked. Anyway, once the blind nuts are seated...bolt on and continue.
Oh yea...the hatch comes predilled but the tabs in the fuse do not...just take a sec and drill. I recommend "tapping" with the screw and then hardening the threads with some thin CA. You'll be happy you did in about 75-100 flights.
I also chose to "seal" the exposed wood around the tail wheel bracket with some thin CA...your choice.
Posts: 490
Joined: 4/3/2002 From: Piscataway, NJ, USA Status: offline
Here it is up on the gear. Also, a pic of the main gear bolts and the HUGE pipe tunnel. I will get to that soon but suffice it to say the cannisters fit easily.
PaulP
< Message edited by Leardriver -- 12/7/2005 2:49:12 AM >
Posts: 490
Joined: 4/3/2002 From: Piscataway, NJ, USA Status: offline
Next I have chosen to build the motor box. First dry fit the firewall....mine needed just a little bit of sanding to "fit like a glove" (doing my best Jim Carey impression). Than I located the aluminum brackets that are "bolted" to the inside corners of the motor box and laid them out as well. Once I was satisfied with the location and the fit I marked and drilled the holes for the bolts in the sides of the motor box and the firewall. Next I bolted the brackets to the firewall and prepared to glue the firewall to the SIDES of the motorbox.....note I said sides only (this is because the bottom of the motor box is 1/16 ply and can have a slight bow to it until the triangle block bracing is glued to it...it will make for a nice straight box once all the bracing is ultimately glued in place).
Now.....do not expect the screws and bolts to hold the box in place by themselves while the glue dries! Trust me..use a set of clamps for the process. It is too hard to apply the glue, hold the firewall in place, and than try to tighten all the little screws/nuts (Entice a buddy over for this part with some pizza and beer...it will make your life easier to have a second set of hands available for this step!) Clamp the firewall in place after the glue (epoxy right?? ) is applied and THAN go back and proceed to tighten the screws/washers/nut assembly. I used blue loctite on the nutsl but I am not sure if it is really necessary.
A quick note: the screws provided work very well but are a little on the soft side, so to avoid stripping them out take care to use the correct size screwdriver! These are the philips/slotted variety so a larger "flathead" screwdriver may work better as you tighten the screws.....your mileage may vary!
When the assembly is dry you already have a very strong firewall between the glue (primary here) and the bolted on brackets (secondary reinforcement). It makes for a very nice sano install once it is done.....
Next I am gonna mount the motor..........
< Message edited by Leardriver -- 12/7/2005 3:16:09 AM >
Posts: 490
Joined: 4/3/2002 From: Piscataway, NJ, USA Status: offline
Hey PTS,
The covering is Ultracoate and it is extremely well done. I am very impressed with the covering.....it would take me a very long time to do a better job. That is the truth.
As far as the build goes....overall very nice. All the joints are done with "white glue" and other high stress joints are done with epoxy. Everything is lasar cut and fits very well....I have not noted any gaps or bad joints anywhere as of yet.
If I "have to" complain it would be the instruction manual is a little vague, but that issue is being addressed as we speak (type?). At this point...purely based on what I see in front of me......I am very pleased with the overall quality of the plane. If there are any specific things you would like me photograph for you or you simply would like more info, feel free to contact me.
Posts: 490
Joined: 4/3/2002 From: Piscataway, NJ, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: blkbird68
yep....it brings tears to my eyes everytime I see a f#$%^!@# DA!!!!!!
quote:
ORIGINAL: Leardriver
Did somebody say.......MOTOR! (Que the fireworks! Que the band!) BAM!
.....kinda brings a tear to your eye..
Now Dan, you know what your mother always said...if you can't say something nice, don't say it at all.........................unless it's a 3W or Hitec....... LOL! Ok...only kidding guys! ...............................mostly.
Posts: 490
Joined: 4/3/2002 From: Piscataway, NJ, USA Status: offline
Ok..back on topic! I was very short on time tonight but I did manage to "hang' the engine and check for alignment. I will let yo all in on the measurement for the DA tomorrow (I hope) because I need to get a longer
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Aviation Models 35% Yak Build - 
. However, it looks like this is going to be a very straight forward assembly. 
) is applied and THAN go back and proceed to tighten the screws/washers/nut assembly. I used blue loctite on the nutsl but I am not sure if it is really necessary. 
(Que the fireworks! Que the band!) 
