RE: Black Magic v2 builder's thread! *Updated*

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RE: Black Magic v2 builder's thread! *Updated* - 12/19/2005 9:41:24 PM

MHester

Posts: 2377
Joined: 10/27/2002
From: Woodstock, GA, USA
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quote:

ORIGINAL: gene webber

Hi Mike,

What are you doing for the aileron servo lead? A simple routed slot or maybe a Gator paper tube?

Are you finishing the fuse with glass and epoxy followed with automotive urethanes?

Considering a wood roach in California.

Thanks,

Gene Webber

Hi Gene,

The aileron servo lead is just run through a hole cut in the wing. Just a piece of brass tubing, bored all the way to the servo box. It's simple.

Yes I'm glassing the fuse and painting with PPG. It can be monokoted if you're REALLY good with monokote; I'm not.

Sorry I haven't been able to keep the content rolling like I'd hoped, the holidays are killing me with 3 kids and trying to get everything else organized. I'll start back up either tonight or tomorrow, if I ever get a minute.

-Mike

_____________________________

Owner Custom Airframes of America, Team YS, Mercury Adhesives

(in reply to gene webber)

Post #: 51

RE: Black Magic v2 builder's thread! *Updated* - 12/21/2005 7:41:25 PM

MHester

Posts: 2377
Joined: 10/27/2002
From: Woodstock, GA, USA
Status: offline

Wing sheeting

This really isn't as hard as some people make it out to be. All you really need is a flat hard surface (that's the real trick) and a piece of 3/4" MDS board cut slightly larger than the wing.

As for the sheeting, select 8 pieces of 1/16"x4"x36 for each wing panel. These pieces should be light with minimal defects, about 14 grams a piece is ideal.

Begin by edge sanding the pieces. Stack them up and sand the edge while weighting them down.

Next lay 6 pieces out on a flat, clean table. Check the fit and make any adjustments now.

With 1.5" masking tape, tape the pieces together lengthwise so they are tightly fit against one another.

Do this only on one side. You should be able to open the seam like a hinge.

Open one seam at a time and apply glue.

Apply a small bead of white Elmer's glue to each joint. Wipe off the excess with a paper towel. Weight the skin down so that it doesn't rise and buckle. Move your weights around occasionally so they don't get stuck.

After about 25 minutes, lightly sand the surface with 220 grit paper. Let the dust migrate into the seam, this will fill the crack well. Now let the skin dry for about 1 hour.

Carefully flip the skin over and peel off the tape. be careful here because it's easy to break the sheets apart with too much force.

Wait about 15 minutes and repeat the light sanding. Let dry for a few hours.

Trim the skin square so length-wise the assembly is 33" long.

Taking measurements from ONLY the bottom edge, make marks at 16" on one side, 9" on the other. Using a long straight edge and a very sharp blade, cut the skin in two diagonally as shown.

Now edge sand the skin on the diagonal cut with a long straight bar.

Tape down and attach one piece of 1/16"x 4"x36" balsa using the same methods previously mentioned.

Make a mark at the tip (from the bottom!) at 2" and using a long straight edge, cut away the TE taper as shown.

Let the skinds dry overnight, then block sand them with 220 grit paper.

Using compressed air or a vacuum, clean the skins thoroughly.

Spray the surface of the skin that will attach to the wing with aqua net (or similar) hair spray. Be careful of your skin orientation. The skins will curl up, but don't worry about it.

Let this dry for a couple of hours, then lightly sand with 400 grit or finer. Clean again and you're ready to glue the sheeting.

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Post #: 52

RE: Black Magic v2 builder's thread! *Updated* - 12/21/2005 8:10:33 PM

MHester

Posts: 2377
Joined: 10/27/2002
From: Woodstock, GA, USA
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Begin by laying the core on the sheeting and making some marks just inside the honeycomb area. Remove the core and connect the dots; the inboard (larger) section is the area you will spread resin onto the skin. Don't spread resin in the honeycombed area, you'll defeat the purpose. if you didn't honeycomb, skip this step.

Spread a good quality laminating resin such as West systems, MGS, EZ Lam or similar onto the surface of the skin that has been treated with hairspray.

Use a folded piece of poster board for this. Spread it as thin as possibly, it should be darker but not soaking wet looking.

Take a glue syringe and lay a bead of resin on the core outlining the honeycomb pattern. The bead should be about 1/16" thick. Use 2 beads around the edges and tip.

Spread also a thin bead across the false rib and spars to make sure you get a good bond there.

Applying top skin first, lay the top shuck on teh flat table and line up the TE of the top skin into the shuck. Carefully lay the core on top of the skin and press gently.

Now apply the bottom skin, again lining up the TEs with both skins and the shuck.

Apply the bottom shuck and flip the whole assembly over, so it is sitting right side up on the surface.

Lay the piece of MDS board on top of the shuck, and go around and align the corners so that everything is in the correct place. A little tweak here and there is usually needed. But this step is critical, make sure it's straight.

Now apply weight to the top of the MDS board. You will need about 200 lbs per panel. '

At this point, check the LEs and TEs with a straight edge. It should be perfect, if not, shim it with poster board until it is.

Let cure overnight, and your wings are sheeted.

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Post #: 53

RE: Black Magic v2 builder's thread! *Updated* - 12/21/2005 9:09:08 PM

MHester

Posts: 2377
Joined: 10/27/2002
From: Woodstock, GA, USA
Status: offline

Turtle deck sheeting

This one can be tricky. Easily it's the most difficult of all the sheeting chores you'll have to do with the Black Magic.

Select the lightest 1/16"x4x36" balsa you can find. It should be A grain, that is you should be able to easily bend it across the sheet. It will need this flexibility. Especially the center sheet.

Lay out your sheeting as shown in the diagrams. Use the same techniques as we used for the wing sheeting, with one change: use Duco cement instead of white glue. These sheets will need to be applied wet so we don't want to use water based glue.

Block sand and use the hair spray sealing method just like on the wings. Sand and clean when ready.

Using a wet rag, dampen the outside of the skin (the side not bonded). This will allow it to better take the shape of teh turtle deck without cracking.

Spread good laminating resin extremely thin, you don't want to use any more than you absolutely have to. The bond isn't nearly as critical as the wing, but it needs to be down and tight. Especially the front area and the edges.

Lay the outer shuck on the flat table, and center the skin in the shuck. Paying particular attention not to twist the skin and keep it aligned, gently press the assembly down into the shuck. Since the nature of these cuts tend to cause a loose fit at the rear, you need to move the whole assembly toward the rear slightly (about 1/4" or so). Put the inner shuck in place.

Now, get creative. You'll need to weight down the center shuck with as much weight as you can get on it, up to 70-100 lbs. Yet you need to be sure you don't get into teh edges, so you'll need something to press down the center.

I use an old level and weights. They'll want to slide, so use masking tape and once again, get creative.

The rear can be a littl problematic. Here I use a carpenter's clamp and adjust until barely snug, being careful not to distort the shape and keep the edges true.

Let it cure overnight, then trim the skins flush with the foam.

Tricky, but not really difficult.

Note: the one shown in the last picture was sheeted before I made the center cut on the core.

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< Message edited by MHester -- 12/21/2005 9:10:25 PM >

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Post #: 54

RE: Black Magic v2 builder's thread! *Updated* - 1/5/2006 2:24:35 AM

troyhm

Posts: 213
Joined: 10/11/2003
From: Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
Status: offline

Hi Everyone

I hear all the pieces for the Black Magic are ready to go. All those builders out there what a oportunity, lets get Mike busy, order you kits

Troy

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Post #: 55

RE: Black Magic v2 builder's thread! *Updated* - 1/5/2006 3:21:46 AM

gene webber

Posts: 80
Joined: 7/30/2005
From: Sacramento, CA, USA
Status: offline

OK Mike,

Got an order for a madera cucharacha on its way to ya. Hope a little southern " Black Magic" can put a hex on the NorCal Precision Aerobatics boys. By the way- Govana Anold says if you don't scratch build your own pattern plane you're a girly man.

See ya

Gene

P.S. Come back to the thread Mike. Where are ya?

(in reply to troyhm)

Post #: 56

RE: Black Magic v2 builder's thread! *Updated* - 1/5/2006 4:34:29 AM

MHester

Posts: 2377
Joined: 10/27/2002
From: Woodstock, GA, USA
Status: offline

I'm here, just got 2 brand new computers online and set up after a complete failure of my old one last week. Oh well, I didn't really need to spend that much money, but these systems are pretty smokin

of course I played hell with this wireless router system, but it's working good now.

More content to come later tonight and tomorrow for sure. I'm still transferring files and such. Stay tuned....

And yes, I have some stock of parts and am full throttle now. When I get everything settled I'll update my web site too. Jeez, I lost a lot of stuff.

Break out that industrial can of whoop ass Gene

Stay tuned....

-Mike

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Owner Custom Airframes of America, Team YS, Mercury Adhesives

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Post #: 57

RE: Black Magic v2 builder's thread! *Updated* - 1/5/2006 5:41:33 AM

MHester

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Joined: 10/27/2002
From: Woodstock, GA, USA
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Capping the wings

Basically it's done the same way as the tail section. The critical thing here is do NOT sand into that wing root when you're trimming the sheeting. Sand it flush, then STOP. An old trick Sam Turner used to use was to color the foam on the root with magic marker. That way if the color wtarted to disappear, you would know you were going too deep. plus it might look cool if you use the right color

The wing tube hole is aligned in a jig, and should be exactly perpendicular to the root. If this changes, you'll have kittens when it comes time to align the wing to the fuse. So make sure it stays correct. Got the point yet?

The leading edge is just trimmed flush and sanded with a straight bar sander, and the tips are the same. Flush. On the trailing edge you'll want to remove about 1/4" and sand it square and flush.

Use strips of 4-6 lb balsa for the leading edge, 1/2" thickness. Glue it on with polyurethane glue and masking tape in place.

Glue on a piece of 1/4" balsa to the trailing edge. Allow leading these to dry completely.

Sand the LEs and TEs flush with the root and tip, andt hen mark a center line down the leading edge on the forward surface. Sand to this line in a nice curve...take your time....and your wing will be nice and straight.

The TEs are sanded flush with the surface, and you'll notice this is a little on the thick side. This aids in tracking lines.

lay the wing halves TE to TE, then LE to LE, the tip to tip and root to root and check for anything out of whack. They should be the same. If they aren't, make them match. Take it off the tip or the TE.

Make the tips by either using a piece of 2" 4-6 lb balsa, or by glueing 2 pieces of 1" together. Lay this against the tip and mark the outline. Cut this to about 3/16" larger than the line...just a rough shape. Now keeipng in mind where the ailerons are going to be, hollow out the tip. Don't get TOO crazy here, but just remove a good chunk of material. Then glue on the tips with poly glue and then sand to rough shape when dry.

Now set the wings and tails aside in thier shucks, it's time to start framing the fuse.

-Mike

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Owner Custom Airframes of America, Team YS, Mercury Adhesives

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Post #: 58

RE: Black Magic v2 builder's thread! *Updated* - 1/5/2006 6:05:19 AM

MHester

Posts: 2377
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From: Woodstock, GA, USA
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BTW Gene, Ahnold is one of my inspirations. Not for the reasons most think, but through his unshakable will and ability to turn any situation to his advantage, no matter how bad. Anybody that thinks he's a brainless muscle head is exactly the kind of person he'd crush....because one of his advantages was how his opponents always underestimate him. This trait goes back all the way to his bodybuilding days. Politics aside, this guy went from Aurstrian nobody to 7 time Mr Olympia, movie star, cult icon, pop icon, real estate millionaire, married a Kennedy (again, politics aside LOL) and ultimately Governer of California. A brainless muscle head can't do that. And he did it just by sheer willpower. And all the while, even now, people STILL underestimate that guy.

My favorite Arnold quote ever: "Somewhere, somebody out there is training harder than you. And when they meet you in competition, they are going to beat you". Pattern is no different. If you want to win, you simply have to want it more than the other guys. You have to be willing to take a road less traveled and learn everything that is learnable....and enjoy it. All of it. Even when people hate you (and I have a couple of those, thankfully not many...but a couple that can be real thorns) you have to press on and find how to persevere.

Sorry to go off track, but it's 1am and these thoughts are important to me right now.

Tomorrow: fuse build up.

-Mike

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Owner Custom Airframes of America, Team YS, Mercury Adhesives

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Post #: 59

RE: Black Magic v2 builder's thread! *Updated* - 1/5/2006 3:05:38 PM

kennyandannie

Posts: 647
Joined: 11/13/2002
From: Universal City , TX, USA
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Just curious, Mike.

How's my plane coming? Do you think you will have it done for me by March?

Ken

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Post #: 60

RE: Black Magic v2 builder's thread! *Updated* - 1/5/2006 6:19:59 PM

MHester

Posts: 2377
Joined: 10/27/2002
From: Woodstock, GA, USA
Status: offline

Fuse Formers

These are fairly easy. Every former except the firewall and F2 are made from 1/8" 4-6 lb balsa. you need good, stiff C grain wood for this.

First cut the formers to approximate size.

Lay the former on top of the plans, and mark a center line with a sharpie.

Now using a block sander, sand the edges until you can barely see the outline all the way around the former.

Flip the former over and transfer the center line to the other side.

using a straight edged cork back ruler, mark the notches for the stringers and cut them out. note that a few of the formers in the front have flat bottoms, they simply sit on top of the stringers at those locations.

Now cut out the centers and sand smooth.

For F-2 and the firewall, you'll need to ither cut the plans, or make a copy and cut the copy. You will use that as a template. You'll need 2 copies of F2 as the parts overlap, or you can just wing it.

Spray the back of the paper lightly with 3M 77 spray adhesive. Let dry for about a minute, then apply the F-2 templates to a piece of flat 1/8" lite ply.

Apply the firewall former to a piece of 1/8" AC ply.

Cut them both out on a scroll saw or band saw.

transfer the center lines to these as well. Transfer the trust line onto the firewall. Sand F2 to final shape and you're done with it.

For the firewall, it needs to be laminated with a piece of 1/8" 4-6 lb C grain balsa. if your building a glow version, you'll need to make a circular cut out to back up the engine mount. Make a circular hole the same size as the plywood piece in the balsa, and fit it into place. Laminate them with a thin covering of epoxy and weight down and let cure. See pics for details.

If you're building the electric version, you need to laminate it straight with a piece of 1/8" balsa, with carbon on both the outer surfaces. Use 2 ounce carbon, and you can either vacuum this down or put piece of mylar over both sides and a LOT of weight on it.

When this cures, drill the holes for your motor mount. This will vary a LOT depending on what you do here. But using a drill press and a 3/8" piece of charpened brass tubing, cut into the balsa side until you hit the ply (you'll know). At this point remove the cut out piece with a small screwdriver or whatever. then laminate in pieces of 3/8" dowel. Let this cure and then redrill.

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