RE: Black Magic v2 builder's thread! *Updated*  
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RE: Black Magic v2 builder's thread! *Updated* - 1/14/2006 8:24:23 PM   
MHester



Posts: 2378
Joined: 10/27/2002
From: Woodstock, GA, USA
Status: offline 		When installing F2, use a thin bead of epoxy. At the same time F2 is being glued, install the 1/4" gear block as well. It bonds better if it all goes in at once.

Let this cure thoroughly before continuing.


Before you install the firewall, or even pull the front sides together, you must install the flooring. On the Glow version, it's just pieces of 1/8" 4-6 lb balsa cut to shape and installed cross grain. just use a good bead of thick CA, sand to fit. Install the floor all the way back to F6.

If you're building an electric version, the floor between the gear block and F-3 is a piece of 1/4" carbon nomex with lightening holes. See the attached pics for the lightening holes for the electric version.

After the flooring is in, pull the front end together and glue in the firewwall using slow cure epoxy. This is an odd bend, and you may notice the fuse sides tend to want to bow out slightly behind F2 and F3. Don't freak out, this is normal and doesn't matter. You'll see why later.

Note: the picture on the right with all the holes in the bottom is the electric version. Don't do this on a glow plane.

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< Message edited by MHester -- 1/24/2006 10:15:04 PM >

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       Post #: 76

RE: Black Magic v2 builder's thread! *Updated* - 1/14/2006 8:31:14 PM   
MHester



Posts: 2378
Joined: 10/27/2002
From: Woodstock, GA, USA
Status: offline 		Now is a good time to install the fuselage bottom.

Begin by cutting back the front at about a 22 degree angle. A little less is ok, a little more is not.

This might seem a little tricky, but just set it flat so the front end is barely hanging over the table and sand with a large flat block.

Now install the belly with polyurethane glue. Use masking tape and T pins to pull everything tight. The sides do not line up perfectly with the fuselage edge at this point, they are about 1/64" narrower all the way down. This will provide a little bit of a ledge, and after it's dry, you'll sand it to a nice transitional curve. Take your time, do it right and straight. Take great care not to pull or twist the fuse out of square when installing this piece.

While you're at it, go ahead and make the end caps. just lay a piece of 1/8" balsa cross grain and using a sharpie, transfer the outline. Cut it larger and leave it that way, and glue in place with polyurethane glue. pin it, tape it, let it dry fully.


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       Post #: 77

RE: Black Magic v2 builder's thread! *Updated* - 1/19/2006 5:56:39 AM   
troyhm


 

Posts: 213
Joined: 10/11/2003
From: Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
Status: offline 		Hi Everyone

when do we get pictures from all the other builders making the Black Magic ? Im sure there are lots of you out there.

Thanks

Troy

(in reply to MHester)
       Post #: 78

RE: Black Magic v2 builder's thread! *Updated* - 1/19/2006 2:22:16 PM   
MHester



Posts: 2378
Joined: 10/27/2002
From: Woodstock, GA, USA
Status: offline 		I'm pretty curious too

But then, it's only been available for a couple of weeks, so I'm guessing it'll be a while.

I'm going flying, but I'll post some more stuff tonight.

-Mike

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Owner Custom Airframes of America, Team YS, Mercury Adhesives

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       Post #: 79

RE: Black Magic v2 builder's thread! *Updated* - 1/20/2006 3:26:40 AM   
troyhm


 

Posts: 213
Joined: 10/11/2003
From: Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
Status: offline 		Hi Everyone

I recieved my plans today !!! Just awesome more than happy with the design and quality to the plans. Thanks Mike you did a great job. Now I will start building this weekend

Thanks

Troy

(in reply to MHester)
       Post #: 80

RE: Black Magic v2 builder's thread! *Updated* - 1/21/2006 2:54:28 AM   
Mr.Extra 260


 

Posts: 987
Joined: 7/3/2005
From: Durango, CO, USA
Status: offline 		Does the kit including plans composites and foam core inclute every thing to finish the kit?

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I fly low but jesus let me know when to stop.

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       Post #: 81

RE: Black Magic v2 builder's thread! *Updated* - 1/21/2006 3:34:37 AM   
jetmech43


 

Posts: 593
Joined: 10/7/2003
From: Bartlett, TN, USA
Status: online 		you get the foam cores the plans, and composites, you furnish the wood to complete

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smooth pass

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       Post #: 82

RE: Black Magic v2 builder's thread! *Updated* - 1/21/2006 3:56:14 AM   
MHester



Posts: 2378
Joined: 10/27/2002
From: Woodstock, GA, USA
Status: offline 		It's the essentials, basically. Plans, cowling, canopy, belly pan, foam cores for wings, stab, fin/rudder, upper and lower turtle deck. That's why it's called a "short kit". I'd love to make full kits, but that's a ways off for me.

All of the templates for the wood parts (and the foam for that matter) are provided.

You have to get the wood, wing/stab tubes, hardware etc. Providing wood for this kit would be impossible right now, I can't buy that much, that light at once. I'd have to stockpile or bribe somone in Ecuador.

It's a custom home built plane, like the Typhoon or Patriot. But it's very modern and competetive. And big.

-Mike


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Owner Custom Airframes of America, Team YS, Mercury Adhesives

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       Post #: 83

RE: Black Magic v2 builder's thread! *Updated* - 1/21/2006 6:35:45 AM   
MHester



Posts: 2378
Joined: 10/27/2002
From: Woodstock, GA, USA
Status: offline 		Between the firewall and F2, on the fuselage sides, you need to add a layer of vertical grain 1/8" balsa. Cut oversized, sand to fit, and glue in with CA.

Now make the lite ply piece for the bottom between the firewall and F2. This piece takes a little patience to get it right, but take your time. Since it's at an angle, it's going to be a PITA to get it in. It should be very tight if it fits right. It should rest on top of the 1/4" stringers and butt up nicely against both the firewall and F2. Glue this in with epoxy.

Add pieces of 1/4" triangle stock to the junction of the firewall and the fuse sides, and on the firewall running crossways where the top lite ply piece will sit. Glue these in with epoxy as well.

Now make your top piese of lite ply, this sits right on top of the stringers and should also fit nicely up against the firewall and F2. Remember, the tighter something fits (without bowing or bending the structure) the stronger AND lighter it will be.

While all of this is curing, if you're using a DEPS, install this now. There's really nothing to this except keep it straight. I use the etched teflon sheaths from CST and they glue great and don't have as much friction as the ones that come with the DEPS. (I use the outers in the DEPS as an antenna tube). Just be sure they are glued well where they exit the fuse, and use pieces of 1/4" balsa to glue them between the formers as shown.

The exits are right at F9, a little over an inch from the fuse bottom.

Now is a good time to go ahead and mount yoru antenna tube. I use canopy glue for this.



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< Message edited by MHester -- 1/21/2006 6:37:07 AM >

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Owner Custom Airframes of America, Team YS, Mercury Adhesives

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       Post #: 84

RE: Black Magic v2 builder's thread! *Updated* - 1/21/2006 7:02:54 AM   
MHester



Posts: 2378
Joined: 10/27/2002
From: Woodstock, GA, USA
Status: offline 		Grab your masking tape and T pins again.

First, get the turtle deck, and make sure the front surface/edge is sanded flush.

Make a mark on the top center of the turtle deck 2 1/2" back from the front edge.

Mark the angle with a flexible ruler, giving yourself a little leeway. make sure you keep the overall length at the bottom/front, don't cut any overall length off the turtle deck.

Now using a large, flat sanding block, sand this face flat to the marks. Set it on a table and don't let it squat and spread out.

Make marks exactly 3" behind the FRONT EDGE of F4. These are the marks you will align the front bottom edges with.

The rear face should also be sanded flush, and if you did everything right, it should be either aligned with F9 or slightly forward of this point. you're good to go.

Now glue it on with polyurethane glue, using masking tape and T pins. Again leave a slight edge about 1/64" so you can sand a nice curve to it. Any more and the fuselage will get thin, any less and it'll just look blocky.

Go ahead and make the front face out of 1/8" lite ply, and the rear out of 1/8" balsa. They should be oversized, glue on with polyurethane glue (I love this stuff).


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_____________________________

Owner Custom Airframes of America, Team YS, Mercury Adhesives

(in reply to MHester)
       Post #: 85

RE: Black Magic v2 builder's thread! *Updated* - 1/21/2006 7:39:09 PM   
MHester



Posts: 2378
Joined: 10/27/2002
From: Woodstock, GA, USA
Status: offline 		This part kind of sucks. There's really no way around it, it's just tedious.

Sand the turtle deck face to size, stop when you reach flush with the balsa sheeting.

install the top formers at F3,4 and 5. Watch your stringer slot heigth here, the bottom of the stringer should be 1 1/4" from the top of the fuse.

Lay the stringer into the slots and let it extend past the face of the turtle deck. Make sure everything is straight and level, then mark the turtle deck so about 1 1/4" of stringer extends into the turtle deck. using blades and files, cut into the side of the turtle deck. The stringer width apart is not so critical, and can vary a bit depending upon how your sheeting turned out (it can be a little narrow or a little wider, it doesn't matter). But cut the stringer slot into the facing so that the outer edge of the stringer is slightly under 1/8" inside of the outer skin/face at the turtle deck.

Gently and carefully sand the top former stringer slots so that you have a nice gradual curve in the stringer from F4 to the turtle deck. It should be a little rounded, but not sticking WAY out.

Glue in the stringers from the firewall back to the turtle deck, extending the stringers into the slots you cut in the turtle deck. Use Polyurethane glue at the turtle deck, CA everywhere else. You may have to make a relief cut into the stinger at F2 so it makes the sharp bend downward to the firewall.

Let this dry completely.

Now take a sanding block and carefully sand the stringers and fuse top former sides so that you have an angled flat surfrace to glue the sheeting to.

The sides of the top formers at the bottom shoule be just inside the outer surface of the fuselage side so you can later sand a nice curve into it.

Now glue reinforcement plates to the front side of the top of F2 (the curved piece). This is where the canopy pins will insert. I make mine out of 1/16" phenolic, but 1/8" AC ply will work too.

Now set the angle using the top stringer that runs from F2T to the top of the firewall. Glue on the top of F2 using thickened epoxy. You need to sand a slight angle on the rear of the top of F2 so you have something to glue to. Remember keep paper towels handy, and remove the excess glue.


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_____________________________

Owner Custom Airframes of America, Team YS, Mercury Adhesives

(in reply to MHester)
       Post #: 86

RE: Black Magic v2 builder's thread! *Updated* - 1/21/2006 7:50:12 PM   
MHeste