Posts: 116
Joined: 1/26/2005 From: , ON, CANADA Status: offline
Hey guys,
Hey Vwfreak, need some wheels now for the sled. Not nuch snow in southern Ontario.
This thread is sure growing!
Suspension issues... go with Vwfreak and get oil shocks all the way around. It makes a huge difference. Set up has to be soft to be effective. You do not want a sink point more than your top out point. This means when you set your sled down on the ground, the suspension should compress halfway. You can still jump and do all that stuff but will give you a lot more versatility rolling over or dropping down into things. It slows it down so by the time your body wants to drop into a hole, you are all ready over it and the suspension did all the work without the "bob" effect".
If you play with the track too much, you will get track slop and that means no reverse, just a grind. If you are running nitro, you can pretty well kiss your track goodbye. I know from experience in how more power means higher strain on other components. Your setup is only as strong as it's weakest link and unfortunately the plastic sleds have many and will be constantly fixing and repairing till there is no sled left.
For most of you the plastic setup is great and will last for years but for the rest of us, I see we are looking for that thrill from a RC that you would not do on the real thing. If you want to do jumps continuously and hit really high speeds, it all comes down to is all this plastic going to hold up? The answer is no, it will break. So preparing to take it to the next level if there is a crack and can not drive it anymore. There are not too many options other than building them yourself right now.
If anybody out there is going to use the plastic version in my opinion should look at overall drag. Install sealed bearings where ever you can. It will last longer and create less heat and strain on the body. These sleds do not roll on wheels and takes more effort to keep going so a drive system that has virtually no resitance creates virtually no heat and drag.
Suspension is second. You want to put the faster motor in first.... well you will be rolling it over constantly and will most likely crack or break something. This includes those piece of **** plastic spindles. I have more emails over these on how to replace them or repair them. You cannot repair them, you have to replace them with something stronger. Steel or aluminum. The same for suspension arms at the rear of the sled. If look closely at the pivot system with the stock setup, it is not true. What I mean by that it is not really designed to compress fully in the stock setup. The middle bows in and breaks. It is really just for show and to keep tension on the track at all times. These skidoos were never designed to have a working suspension. You will have to relocate the mounting position on the back by constantly pulling back and dropping the rear end down to give it a low profile and better handling. I see a lot of you doing this but this also creates a new problem. The front bogey/guide wheels are much much closer to the tunnel drive wheels and limits travel here which is more crucial than the rear end. This is why these sleds flip over. The front part of the track is the first part of the track that meets uneven ground so a soft free traveling rear end makes sense. Try it and I guarantee you will see a difference.
You will need to make or buy or get them made or something. I have pictures to show if you want to see how they are made. I have 3 styles but will show you just 1.
Overall guys you are doing a great job and creating a network that seems to inspire more and more.
I ordered some pulleys today and will get my beast up and running again in a week or 2. I am sure there will be snow then. In the meantime I will be upgrading my custom dual exhaust, install lights/brake lights and put a cleat system on the track. I have a couple of pictures of the sled sitting on my table, not even 3 tanks run through the motor yet and in the shop. This is the price of designing your own sled.
Check out the pics and the suspension arms (holes are not drilled yet)
Posts: 513
Joined: 5/31/2004 From: Milford,
PA, USA Status: online
rpci- nice setup, it must scream! The only thing I personally would change is get some weight out of the nose. Put the batteries in the rear- will help traction too. These sleds like to catapult the rear up over jumps and such, so the weight up front won't help matters. Also, on mine, I pulled the power for the lights right from the recievers batt connector since it was free. Eliminates the need for another battery. The lights don't draw enough amperage to hurt the reciever board nor do they really draw enough to affect run time much.
vw- you removed all the straps? I just removed the fronts and it was a nice improvement. Didn't even consider removing the rears, maybe I'll try that next. Joe
< Message edited by kwiktsi -- 1/4/2006 1:33:35 PM >
Posts: 15
Joined: 12/16/2005 From: Naperville, IL, USA Status: offline
Hey kwiktsi,
Thank you for the complement on the sled.
I see what you are saying about the weight up front like that. That is one issue I will keep my eye on. Later improvements to the track and rear suspension will add weight back there. With the batts up front and very low, the center of gravity has been lowered considerably. It does not want to roll like before. I almost put a few cells under the seat too, but saved that idea for when it goes to a 14 cell system with the Novak E-Maxx brush-less system. I have the Novak system, just want to get a feel for the sled before going all the way. Will have to build a complete new gear drive or belt system. Need to change the suspension and shocks all the way around. Will get there slowly.
The extra battery is for the 4 fans and the lights. Did not want to overload the BEC on the ESC. It is also a safety precaution in case there is a short. There is a 2 amp fuse in the fan wiring.
Just waiting for some snow now. There is none in the 10 day forecast. It has been 40 deg the past week or so.
Posts: 513
Joined: 5/31/2004 From: Milford,
PA, USA Status: online
I can see it helping with the lower center of gravity. I guess it is a give-take situation. I am really considering 14 cells with a motor I have here and giving it a tall gear ratio. I have been thumbing through my McMaster-Carr catalog looking at belts and pulleys and such to make it work, we'll see. Even thought about 12 cells and one of my Trinity Monster Maxx motors from my E Maxx. Maybe I'll play with that setup first and see how it goes.. Joe
Posts: 9
Joined: 8/22/2005 From: Pewaukee, WI, USA Status: offline
Hey Guys, new to the electric scene. I have been a nitro guy for 5 years.
Got one of the RC sleds and fried the electronics for some reason, so I am going to all new electronics and my Fireball 13T motor.
What do all do I need to make an electric work? I have got a battery and transmitter. I know I need a standard reciever and speed control, but I don't know how to rig them up. Any help is appreciated.
Posts: 9
Joined: 8/22/2005 From: Pewaukee, WI, USA Status: offline
Also, a few quick tips for all of you guys.
First, the suspension. Remove all of the plastic rods in the rear as well as the plastic limiter straps. They are all useless.
Second, take out all of the springs and stretch them out to about twice their normal length and then cut them in half. This will give you a much lighter spring that will actually absorb the bumps really well. Do this in the front and rear for exceptional results.
Finaly, if you have enough snow, remove most of the idler wheels in the rear suspension. If enough powder is present, the track will spin much easier on just the plastic rails. The snow lubricates them excelently. You will need to keep the ones in the rear, but all of the others must go, especially the ones right in front by the drive cogs. They hit the brace and limit travel by a lot. Try this, you will be surprised.
Posts: 15
Joined: 12/16/2005 From: Naperville, IL, USA Status: offline
That is a possibility. I only have one battery pack for it tho. You are 60 miles from here.
I see you are into the other models. I have the T-Maxx, Savage, E-Maxx, Tiger 400 electric airplane, and the T-Rex electric helicopter. Would like to get into the boats a little too.
Posts: 60
Joined: 3/7/2004 From: Winside,
NE, USA Status: offline
I got mine the other night and the first thing I did was take it apart. Wife wasnt thrilled. On the front for now it has the stock shocks but the springs are the gold rear springs for the associated RC10T 1.32 shocks. They are a little soft but I just need to go the the hobbyshop and get some stiffer ones. At least the front end works now. It was posted earlier that the stock rear suspension was never designed to work. I am going to have to agree. Like they said ditch the front limiting straps and all four small rods along with the c shaped bracket. On mine there was a place on the frame to mount the lower rear shock. I am goint to lookinto relocating the upper rear mount. First of all it bugs me that the track doesent sit flat. Second the front and rear swingarms are at different angles. It wont work smoothly unless they are the same angle.
What little bit I have run mine in the house(bought a sled, snow melted next day. Just my luck) It seems like it is geared too low. Has anyone tried using the stock motor and gearing it up a tooth or two?
Over all the sled looks great, but oh my god! I have never seen a slopier front end on anything before. Nick
Picked one up a few weeks ago myself. Installed an Orion 10T double with 14 tooth pinion from a TTFM1E bike (fit nicely under the gear cover with no hacking). I also zip-tied the motor to the black plastic plate (as posted in many pics here) with a small piece of metal glued under the motor to prevent the zip tie from bending the plastic too much. I was very surprised how this thing now moves along in the snow. I also removed all plastic links and installed a traxxas big bore oil shock in the rear. So far, so good, no breakage - I have been 'easy' on it in fear of the 10 turn being a bit much for the drivetrain.
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RE: SkiDoo Snowmobile (let the mods begin) - 
