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RE: ... - 5/17/2008 6:45:39 PM   
manumenzella04


 

Posts: 19
Joined: 7/30/2007
From: Santa Fe, ARGENTINA
Status: offline 		Hi,
I just realized that I used blue loctite to glue the paddles, and the manual says to use the green one.
Could I have damaged the paddles, or should I be ok?
Thanks,
Manuel

(in reply to manumenzella04)
       Post #: 4226

RE: ... - 5/17/2008 11:16:54 PM   
HeliSmith



Posts: 1520
Joined: 1/25/2007
From: Canyon Country, CA, USA
Status: offline 		Manuel you can't use any kind of loctite on plastic parts. You need to use CA. If the plastic isn't deteriorate, i.e. if it doesn't wobble on the flybard, you should be ok to clean it out a little and just CA them on. I use a little dot of CA 2 turns from the end of where I want it to be then screw the paddle over the dot of CA.


Nice FlyingHigh seems like you have a good camera buddy. I have no one really willing to video me. I did get my friend to take some pictures today with a high quality camera loaned to me from HeliHobby. Still same shots only more clear, nose in inverted and side in inverted. I haven't the cable to get them off there and it takes a different memory card.

I have two 450 helis to build so going to work.

Mike

< Message edited by HeliSmith -- 5/17/2008 11:18:22 PM >

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(in reply to FlyingHigh 400)
       Post #: 4227

RE: ... - 5/18/2008 6:06:10 AM   
flyachopper1



Posts: 225
Joined: 10/31/2007
From: North Platte, NE, USA
Status: offline 		Helismith,
No worries on a warranty for the Futaba. When I spoke with them they said it is fully warrantied. Have you used the new 430XL motor on any of the helis you've been setting up? If so, have you noticed an improvement over the 430L? If it turns out to be a better motor I'll eventually get a couple more.

Visited a place in St. Louie today called CRM Hobbies. They don't stock many heli kits, but do have some parts. I picked up a carbon fiber tail control rod for Donicas Copt. X. I hope to find a couple more shops tomorrow.

Later





< Message edited by Lightfoot -- 5/21/2008 10:16:29 PM >

_____________________________

A helicopter is 40,000 loose parts flying in formation, beating the air into submission and scaring the ground away.

(in reply to FlyingHigh 400)
       Post #: 4228

RE: ... - 5/18/2008 6:55:07 AM   
HeliCentral


 

Posts: 5
Joined: 5/17/2008
From: Des Moines, IA, USA
Status: offline 		Does anyone know if Align glues the main shaft bearings in ?
I cant get them out I have tried everything, I just want to put in my nice high quality bearings.

(in reply to FlyingHigh 400)
       Post #: 4229

RE: ... - 5/18/2008 7:05:19 AM   
FlyingHigh 400


 

Posts: 674
Joined: 11/1/2007
From: St Clair Shores, MI, USA
Status: online 		Yes,I think they use locktight.Its one or the other,I think it keeps them from spinning in the frame.


quote:

ORIGINAL: HeliCentral

Does anyone know if Align glues the main shaft bearings in ?
I cant get them out I have tried everything, I just want to put in my nice high quality bearings.



_____________________________

Raptor 30,GY401/JR NES810G,OS.37/Revolution tune Pipe. http://www.youtube.com/user/flyinhigh450

(in reply to HeliCentral)
       Post #: 4230

RE: ... - 5/18/2008 7:09:15 AM   
FlyingHigh 400


 

Posts: 674
Joined: 11/1/2007
From: St Clair Shores, MI, USA
Status: online 		Run hot hot water over them (Remove or cover electronics) for about 2-3 mins and they should pop out easy....Make sure you use a blowdryer or somthing to dry the barrings and oil them.

_____________________________

Raptor 30,GY401/JR NES810G,OS.37/Revolution tune Pipe. http://www.youtube.com/user/flyinhigh450

(in reply to FlyingHigh 400)
       Post #: 4231

RE: ... - 5/18/2008 12:50:47 PM   
fossoman


 

Posts: 161
Joined: 2/22/2006
From: davenport, IA, USA
Status: offline 		Need a little advice on brushless motors. Is it ok to use Triflow teflon based oil on these motors any problems anyones had with bearing failure because of using Triflow?
My last motor was shot before I put any Triflow on it so I just wondered. Bearing went out on it couldnt find a replacement bearing.

Fossoman

_____________________________

Remember no matter where you go, There ya are

(in reply to FlyingHigh 400)
       Post #: 4232

RE: ... - 5/18/2008 2:33:59 PM   
theecoop



Posts: 31
Joined: 6/7/2007
From: Edwardsburg, MI, USA
Status: offline 		Well I went ahead and ordered the 450SA frame and cnc swashplate to transfer everything else from my 450XL im hoping those are the only parts i will need to convert it to a t-rex450SA . Is anything else needed? I think I will be better off with the ccpm setup.

(in reply to fossoman)
       Post #: 4233

RE: ... - 5/18/2008 3:10:45 PM   
HeliSmith



Posts: 1520
Joined: 1/25/2007
From: Canyon Country, CA, USA
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: FlyingHigh 400

Run hot hot water over them (Remove or cover electronics) for about 2-3 mins and they should pop out easy....Make sure you use a blowdryer or somthing to dry the barrings and oil them.


I never intentionally bring water near my heli.

Pop the bearing blocks out to do so just remove the 8 screws holding them in and caringly wiggle them off their little dowels and out of the frame. Now you can work on the thing

For a plastic bearing block:
You can use hot water here to heat the just the bearing block because we don't care about these bearings. Then use an old main shaft but don’t put it through the bearing put it through the bearing block hole but against the bearing. You will use it to punch out the bearing so while holding the bearing block with a glove you will have the main shaft coming out downward. Tap it on the counter and move it around the edge keep working it around. If the bearing crumbles in there you are in a world of hurt so make sure not to be too aggressive.

For a metal bearing block:
Use some heat from a toaster or high above your stove. It is usually good to heat and cool the block a few times. Then let it cool all the way down and heat it then try with it heated. You will hold it with an oven mitt and use the same method above.


< Message edited by HeliSmith -- 5/18/2008 3:11:52 PM >

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http://www.helismith.com

(in reply to FlyingHigh 400)
       Post #: 4234

RE: ... - 5/18/2008 3:34:56 PM   
HeliSmith



Posts: 1520
Joined: 1/25/2007
From: Canyon Country, CA, USA
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: flyachopper1
Helismith,
No worries on a warranty for the Futaba. When I spoke with them they said it is fully warrantied. Have you used the new 430XL motor on any of the helis you've been setting up? If so, have you noticed an improvement over the 430L? If it turns out to be a better motor I'll eventually get a couple more.

Visited a place in St. Louie today called CRM Hobbies. They don't stock many heli kits, but do have some parts. I picked up a carbon fiber tail control rod for Donicas Copt. X. I hope to find a couple more shops tomorrow.


My people my people,

Cool on the Futaba I got to play with a high end one for two days and man was it smooth. Damn sticks felt like they were gliding no slop at all just felt connected.

The 430L is a nice cruiser motor which lacks power for people like me. The 430XL runs hot and has lower flight times. It is a 3D motor for sure which certainly brings it to the playing field. The Scorpion -8 V2 is better where it is efficient running nice and cool but has a tad MORE power than a 430XL. The Scorpion motors have crappy bearings from the factory after about 250 flights you will want to install some nice ABEC bearings. Scorpion motors are very easy to work on. I gave my 430XL away to a friend down on his luck. Sorry Align that's the way the ball bounces.

word


_____________________________

http://www.helismith.com

(in reply to flyachopper1)
       Post #: 4235

RE: ... - 5/18/2008 6:28:56 PM   
FlyingHigh 400


 

Posts: 674
Joined: 11/1/2007
From: St Clair Shores, MI, USA
Status: online 		Why are you telling me?Thats how ive been taking my barrings out for the past 13 years.Never had a problem.What,do you think the Aluminum will rust lol.As long as you dry the barrings and oil them,there as good as new and clean..



quote:

ORIGINAL: HeliSmith

quote:

ORIGINAL: FlyingHigh 400

Run hot hot water over them (Remove or cover electronics) for about 2-3 mins and they should pop out easy....Make sure you use a blowdryer or somthing to dry the barrings and oil them.


I never intentionally bring water near my heli.

Pop the bearing blocks out to do so just remove the 8 screws holding them in and caringly wiggle them off their little dowels and out of the frame. Now you can work on the thing

For a plastic bearing block:
You can use hot water here to heat the just the bearing block because we don't care about these bearings. Then use an old main shaft but don’t put it through the bearing put it through the bearing block hole but against the bearing. You will use it to punch out the bearing so while holding the bearing block with a glove you will have the main shaft coming out downward. Tap it on the counter and move it around the edge keep working it around. If the bearing crumbles in there you are in a world of hurt so make sure not to be too aggressive.

For a metal bearing block:
Use some heat from a toaster or high above your stove. It is usually good to heat and cool the block a few times. Then let it cool all the way down and heat it then try with it heated. You will hold it with an oven mitt and use the same method above.




_____________________________

Raptor 30,GY401/JR NES810G,OS.37/Revolution tune Pipe. http://www.youtube.com/user/flyinhigh450

(in reply to HeliSmith)
       Post #: 4236

RE: ... - 5/18/2008 6:30:23 PM   
fossoman


 

Posts: 161
Joined: 2/22/2006
From: davenport, IA, USA
Status: offline 		Been Practicing autorotation from a few feet up just to get the feel. Do I need the Blade Pitch settings in the radio the same for throttle hold as normalflight mode or what ?

_____________________________

Remember no matter where you go, There ya are

(in reply to HeliSmith)
       Post #: 4237

RE: ... - 5/18/2008 7:56:24 PM   
manumenzella04


 

Posts: 19
Joined: 7/30/2007
From: Santa Fe, ARGENTINA
Status: offline 		Hi there,

Helismith: thanks for your suggestion. I took them out, and put some CA on them: they are now as new!

I am now facing another problem. After only three and a half minutes of flying, the 430XL motor is HOT, so hot that the bottom part will burn your finger if you hold it there for more than a few seconds.
I do not know the exact temperature to post it, as I dont have a laser thermometer, but I will try to get one ASAP and post the results here.
The ESC is warm to hot, but i believe it is predictable since I am using the internal BEC to power 3x 65MG, 1x9650, and a 401 gyro.
I checked the belt tension, and the gear mesh, and both appear to be alright. I also tried other