RE: Official T-rex 450 XL SE Thread

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All Forums >> RC Helicopters >> Electric RC Helis >> T-Rex heli >> RE: Official T-rex 450 XL SE Thread

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RE: ... - 5/19/2008 8:58:02 PM

corona007

Posts: 232
Joined: 6/6/2006
From: chino, CA, USA
Status: offline

Gary. As far as setting up your 401 go here http://www.helitown.com/VedeoInstructionsbyBobWhite.html, There is a video just for setting up your gyro among build, maintenance, bladetracking etc. Priceless info. The 401 is one of peoples choice, I have 5 and never had any issues. But there is the new Spartan gyro retails about 219.00. That will be my next purchase just to see what the hype is all about, hahah gotta keep up with the fellows. But the 401 is a fine gyro you wount be dissapointed. Good luck,have fun!
Lou.

(in reply to sheerider1026)

Post #: 4251

RE: ... - 5/20/2008 1:08:53 AM

manumenzella04

Posts: 19
Joined: 7/30/2007
From: Santa Fe, ARGENTINA
Status: offline

Hi
Thanks HeliSmith for your quick answer. I have just tried the new curves, and the motor seems to be running a little less hot, but not too much. I am getting the thermometer tommorrow and will post the results.
Another thing: is it safe to run the motor at 90% or even 100% with no pitch on the blades?
I am using the PRO wood blades and 12t pinion (I also have a pair of radix, but I am saving them I case I crash soon

Thanks again for all your help,
Manuel

(in reply to Pontiac_40)

Post #: 4252

RE: ... - 5/20/2008 1:13:22 AM

flyachopper1

Posts: 253
Joined: 10/31/2007
From: North Platte, NE, USA
Status: offline

quote:

ORIGINAL: HeliSmith

quote:

ORIGINAL: FlyingHigh 400

Why are you telling me?Thats how ive been taking my barrings out for the past 13 years.Never had a problem.What,do you think the Aluminum will rust lol.As long as you dry the barrings and oil them,there as good as new and clean..

Just read it wrong I guess. I thought you were saying to take the whole heli to the sink and run hot water over the bearings! lol My bad.

Apparently he did mean the whole heli

. Why else would he have said to cover or remove the electornics? Seems to me it's less work to take the bearing block out than to remove or cover the electronics. The hot water may work, but I use a heat gun. I have a small vise with soft jaws to hold the bearing block and I use a small piece of stainless tubing tapped with a small mallet to gently drive the bearings out. To reinstall bearings I heat the block again and tap the new ones in using a slightly larger diameter piece of stainless tubing. Been doing this for 14 YEARS and haven't ruined anything yet. I don't know about the plastic blocks. The only heli I have with plastic blocks is the Raptor G2 and I haven't had to change a bearing in it yet. I'll keep the hot water in mind for that as the heat gun is likely too hot for the plastic. Also, I don't know why anyone would worry about oiling a sealed bearing. If it is worn to the point that the seals allow oil to enter then the bearing is shot. Toss it.

What's a 'barring'?

_____________________________

A helicopter is 40,000 loose parts flying in formation, beating the air into submission and scaring the ground away.

(in reply to HeliSmith)

Post #: 4253

RE: ... - 5/20/2008 2:33:22 PM

HeliSmith

Posts: 1522
Joined: 1/25/2007
From: Canyon Country, CA, USA
Status: offline

quote:

ORIGINAL: sheerider1026

hey guys, how good is the gy401?? i just bought one with the 9650 servo.. i have been flying an esky hbk2 with the esky hh gyro.. was wondering how much better the combo is that i just bought for my rex.. is it about the best?? i have a dx6i, when setting it all up, where do i need to be on the gyro adjustments(on the gyro itself) and the adjustments in the tx?? thanx,gary

Gary,

The 401 is light years beyond the E-Sky gyro and if setup right will rarely blow out on you. It is not the best because it has an erratic piro rate in one direction. What it does is, I believe, if you are flying left to right and you do a right rudder piro it will do half the piro fast and half slow around and around half fast half slow. Not a big deal I do my piro flips in the other direction anyway. I do fly the 401 as well as tons and tons of people who are very happy with it.

You set you gyro with the DX6i in the gyro menu. This is gyro sense so you will start out at 72% which is default and is equivalent to 50% gain. If it wags fast go down on the number if it wags slow go up. The nice thing about the DX6i is it already has the gyro switch assigned so if you flip it you are in rate mode. It is default 0 gain for rate mode this is for setting your tail pitch in the middle at center stick. Don't try to fly in rate mode this is a monster to setup as you need revo mixing. Just make sure that switch is up when you plug in and when you fly. If it is down by accident when you plug in then unplug, reset the switch and plug your heli in again.

Hope that helps,

Mike

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(in reply to sheerider1026)

Post #: 4254

RE: ... - 5/20/2008 2:36:34 PM

HeliSmith

Posts: 1522
Joined: 1/25/2007
From: Canyon Country, CA, USA
Status: offline

quote:

ORIGINAL: manumenzella04

Hi
Thanks HeliSmith for your quick answer. I have just tried the new curves, and the motor seems to be running a little less hot, but not too much. I am getting the thermometer tommorrow and will post the results.
Another thing: is it safe to run the motor at 90% or even 100% with no pitch on the blades?
I am using the PRO wood blades and 12t pinion (I also have a pair of radix, but I am saving them I case I crash soon
Thanks again for all your help,
Manuel

Keep you throttle at 95% or less at midstick. That's why a 100 flat curve is 0, 40, 95, 100, 100 and 100, 100, 95, 100, 100. This is to spare the motor. You have to watch your headspeed with wood blades you may want to keep it at 90 anyway but you should use a tach to make sure you are at 2800RPM or less.

Yes please post your temps I am super curious. The 430XL does run warm how are you batteries?

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(in reply to manumenzella04)

Post #: 4255

RE: ... - 5/20/2008 2:42:29 PM

HeliSmith

Posts: 1522
Joined: 1/25/2007
From: Canyon Country, CA, USA
Status: offline

quote:

ORIGINAL: flyachopper1

Apparently he did mean the whole heli . Why else would he have said to cover or remove the electornics? Seems to me it's less work to take the bearing block out than to remove or cover the electronics. The hot water may work, but I use a heat gun. I have a small vise with soft jaws to hold the bearing block and I use a small piece of stainless tubing tapped with a small mallet to gently drive the bearings out. To reinstall bearings I heat the block again and tap the new ones in using a slightly larger diameter piece of stainless tubing. Been doing this for 14 YEARS and haven't ruined anything yet. I don't know about the plastic blocks. The only heli I have with plastic blocks is the Raptor G2 and I haven't had to change a bearing in it yet. I'll keep the hot water in mind for that as the heat gun is likely too hot for the plastic. Also, I don't know why anyone would worry about oiling a sealed bearing. If it is worn to the point that the seals allow oil to enter then the bearing is shot. Toss it.

What's a 'barring'?

Jay,

Nice I need a vice with soft jaws, a heat gun and a mallet. I am soaking your knowledge up.

As I am working on so many helis lately especially badly crashed ones I will need to start collecting the right tools to get the job done quicker.

On a Trex 600e recently the main shaft was bent so bad I had to split the frames, remove the bearing block, main shaft and main gear all in one section. Then dremel the main shaft in three pieces from the middle to save the bearing blocks. That was the worst bent main shaft I have ever seen I couldn't get the swash up or the main gear off even out of the frame!

Mike

Edit: P.S. That one way is still fused to the main shaft so I never saved the lower gear. Damaged it trying to remove it was a shame but I threw in the towel. Saved most of the parts though.

< Message edited by HeliSmith -- 5/20/2008 2:44:29 PM >

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Post #: 4256

RE: ... - 5/20/2008 3:46:26 PM

sheerider1026

Posts: 224
Joined: 3/9/2008
From: , KY, USA
Status: offline

so you are saying always fly in hh mode and never in rate mode?? and what switch are you talking about leaving flipped up??the gyro switch on the tx?? i am still a little confused.. and please explain the revo mixing a little bit,, is that where you can program the tail pitch to change when you give sudden throttle inputs??

(in reply to HeliSmith)

Post #: 4257

RE: ... - 5/20/2008 5:59:05 PM

HeliSmith

Posts: 1522
Joined: 1/25/2007
From: Canyon Country, CA, USA
Status: offline

Yes always in HH mode.
Yes the gyro switch should be down make sure you have a solid red light. (Please check the light I haven't used DX6i except for customer)
Yes revo mixing mixes a certain amount of tail pitch in with the speed of the motor.

Edited:

< Message edited by HeliSmith -- 5/20/2008 6:19:08 PM >

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Post #: 4258

RE: ... - 5/20/2008 10:43:53 PM

manumenzella04

Posts: 19
Joined: 7/30/2007
From: Santa Fe, ARGENTINA
Status: offline

Hi Helismith,
These are the temperatures of the motor, lipo, and esc:

Time Lipo ESC Motor
0' 83 83 84
2' 97 120 138
4' 103 130 148
6' 115 133 148

These measurements are for a 6 minutes hovering, with really short stops every two minutes to make the measurements.
The throttle curve for this is 0 - 45 - 90 - 90 - 90, but I also tried 0 - 40 - 70 - 85 - 100 but with only a few more degrees measured.

What I forgot to mention in the other posts is that my red bullet connector (esc - motor) for some reason is very hard to remove. Once when building, to unplug the motor, I pulled from the wires (stupid on my part), and the red wire going to the motor got cut just where they go into the connector. I stripped only 3 more millieters from it and soledered again. Do you think this might be causing the increased temperature? (I unplugged the bullet connectors right after flighing to check if the males were hot but they were only a bit above ambient temperature)

The battery used is being charged right now, and i will edit this post with how many mah were put back into it.

Thanks again for all your help,
Manuel

< Message edited by manumenzella04 -- 5/20/2008 10:54:42 PM >

(in reply to HeliSmith)

Post #: 4259

RE: ... - 5/21/2008 3:31:21 AM

HeliSmith

Posts: 1522
Joined: 1/25/2007
From: Canyon Country, CA, USA
Status: offline

quote:

ORIGINAL: manumenzella04

Hi Helismith,
These are the temperatures of the motor, lipo, and esc:

Time Lipo ESC Motor
0' 83 83 84
2' 97 120 138
4' 103 130 148
6' 115 133 148

These measurements are for a 6 minutes hovering, with really short stops every two minutes to make the measurements.
The throttle curve for this is 0 - 45 - 90 - 90 - 90, but I also tried 0 - 40 - 70 - 85 - 100 but with only a few more degrees measured.

What I forgot to mention in the other posts is that my red bullet connector (esc - motor) for some reason is very hard to remove. Once when building, to unplug the motor, I pulled from the wires (stupid on my part), and the red wire going to the motor got cut just where they go into the connector. I stripped only 3 more millieters from it and soledered again. Do you think this might be causing the increased temperature? (I unplugged the bullet connectors right after flighing to check if the males were hot but they were only a bit above ambient temperature)

The battery used is being charged right now, and i will edit this post with how many mah were put back into it.

Thanks again for all your help,
Manuel

Manuel

I don't know the exact temp the 430XL runs at but 148 seems a bit high. Anyone willing to temp probe their 430XL for Manuel? I am sure I will have one soon to build and I will do it. 130 for the ESC sounds ok and my batteries get to 110 - 115 too.

The motor wires are coated with an "enamel" that is not conductive just back from the tin coated end. If you cut your wires you may not have noticed that this enamel is there because it is absolutely clear you can't even see it but the wire will still make a OK connection from the ends.

One way to tell is you can't get a "shiney" tin coat on the end of the wire anymore. Did it have a nice silver shiney tin coat on the wire? If not...

The enamel can be sanded off or some say to use a torch to get it off but I think a torch degrades the copper wire breaking it down. So I suggest to just roll the wire between pinched sand paper.

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(in reply to manumenzella04)

Post #: 4260

RE: ... - 5/21/2008 4:35:53 AM

Lightfoot

Posts: 3227
Status: offline

This thread has apparently outlived its useful purpose. In the past 60 to 70 posts, on one has actually been on topic and offered any useful information. At this point, it is time to shut it down.

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Howard
RCUniverse Forum Manager

R/C Flight Unlimited - http://www.rcfu.com

(in reply to manumenzella04)

Post #: 4261

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