RE: Walkera 22E Lets Talk

RE: Walkera 22E Lets Talk (Full Version)

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sfinckster -> RE: Walkera 22E Lets Talk (1/23/2006 8:59:53 PM)
Yes hartar, that is what the reverse biased diode is supposed to do, maybe it died, but I doubt it. Is the problem with all the servos or is one of them twitching and not the others? I had a problem with one of my servos twitching like that. I took it apart and cleaned the potentiometer good inside and it is a lot better now, but still not as good as the other servos. They are really cheap servos. I actually drilled a small hole in the side of the bad servo right next to where the pot. is so that I can spray contact cleaner inside when it starts acting up. If you do this, make sure you use a plastic safe contact cleaner or you will be very unhappy.

party_ruler_dude@yahoo.com -> RE: Walkera 22E Lets Talk (1/24/2006 1:34:46 AM)
my brotherinlaw had bought a 22E and had a crash and needed to replace the blade nibs but they seem to bee too loose (too much play in and out) is this common or what can he do to fix this? i have just bought a blade cp and have similar problems with mine but mine is up and down play that causes to have my blades to be out of track and i can't tightenthem either like him. is that common or what? we have been with nitro cars and trucks for two or three years but new to flying helicopters and know they take time to learn to fly. I have made my first suscesful flight today about 50 to 75 feet and dod good. thanks

denjoy -> RE: Walkera 22E Lets Talk (1/24/2006 2:40:45 AM)
Ace; Thanks for the info.I will make some checks and adjustments and get back to you later.I havechecked heli balance and yes tail is heavy.I put my training legs on and bal. was much better. Later!!!!!

hartar -> RE: Walkera 22E Lets Talk (1/24/2006 3:11:28 AM)
thanks for the info.. I would have never thought it was the servo but it was.. it had a bad connection and the vibration was causing the fluctuation.. I was able to fix it.. thanks for your help...

acebusa -> RE: Walkera 22E Lets Talk (1/24/2006 3:32:42 AM)
Well I did some more experimenting with my tail motor problem, and I found the problem to be in the rx, I kept trying to fly it after putting the stock tail motor back on, and when I lifted off, It spun out of control, and crashed.[>:] So I deiced I would build a stand to put the heli on that would allow free rotation, Well it worked, and I fired up the heli with my old rx (remember my new one had a bad channel 1 for the servo) It was erratic as usual, So I decided sense I couldn't fly my heli with the new rx, I would try it on the stand and see how the tail motor works, Well It stayed steady for a bit, than it spun all the way around and stopped again, than started being erratic with tail wag, It corrected the peaky problem with the old rx, but I found it odd that it was so spastic, so I disconnected the main motor and fired up the tail at 50%, and gave a little tap on the rx, guess what Same problem as my old rx, If you slightly tap the rx it caused the tail to go crazy, The vibrations from the main rotor head Even though small was enough to cause the new rx to go erratic. I am tired of the cheap electronics from walkera! I am going to search out another option. This is crazy.

zacc -> RE: Walkera 22E Lets Talk (1/24/2006 12:32:02 PM)
i had exactly the same problem i posted a picture back alittle while ago of the part that gives the tail the eratic behahavior, i would tap the rx it would make the tail go spastic, any way tried fixing with a soldering irion but the iron was to big for the job and stuffed the original rx, ordered another one and nock my sox off it did the same thing. any way brought a good iron took the part off resoldered the little wires that connect to the bar resoldered the lot back on and no problems works like a dream . if you are going to do this on yours be very carefull when you take it off the board the four spots where it is soldered go underneath and if you do not heat the solder enough it will break the tabs off> have fun

acebusa -> RE: Walkera 22E Lets Talk (1/24/2006 2:46:16 PM)
I tried that earlier, and as I posted it fixed the tapping problem, but now the tail is too touchy, it seems that part must slow down the current flow to the tail motor, and allow a smooth increase in the rpm, when I repaired mine, one of the tabs probably didn't get seated correctly, and is causing it to send the voltage too quick to the tail motor, resulting in touchy controls.

acebusa -> RE: Walkera 22E Lets Talk (1/24/2006 3:01:01 PM)
Check this out! You know how I ordered the new rx, and it didnt work, the company is blaming shipping! Here was my E-mail to them...........Received my order and the rx, doesn't work, channel 1 for the servos > does not function, I need a replacement soon, I already am upset that it > doesn't work, And now I have to wait longer, please respond and let me > know what to do ASAP ............And this was the responce................Dear Sir, Thank you for your e-mail. All the items are brand new. Please go to your post office to complain the loss of damage. Then e-mail to us. We will claim you loss from our post office. Regards, Liz eTAMIYA.com .........Can you believe that???????? Here is what I sent back................. It is not a shipping problem, the Problem is a manufacture defect, and needs to be taken care of from your facility. I am a technician, and know even new parts can be defective. Please respond soon with resolve. .......I Will let you know how it goes.

Ah Clem -> RE: Walkera 22E Lets Talk (1/24/2006 3:23:51 PM)
Ace, I think if you tap on any Piezo gyro, it will go nuts. Have you considered the Venom RX? The have been pretty decent about standing behind their stuff.

sfinckster -> RE: Walkera 22E Lets Talk (1/24/2006 3:43:30 PM)
Would the Venom RX be compatible with the Walkera TX?

acebusa -> RE: Walkera 22E Lets Talk (1/24/2006 3:45:31 PM)
Well when I saw tap I mean barley touch, And when that is the case, Any vibration on the heli causes it to affect the tail. And that is exactly what happens the slight vibration I get from the rotor when it spins is enough to send the tail out of control. I thought about the venom, But I am thinking of purchasing a spektrum dx6 Tx, receiver, and servo package, This will take the rest of the walkera electronics away except the main motor, and if I change To a different Heli in the future I will just swap the spektrum if I like it. What do you think?

Ah Clem -> RE: Walkera 22E Lets Talk (1/24/2006 5:40:51 PM)
Ace, I flew (hovered) the Shogun with the Spectrum in it. It was very solid. I am still tuning, so I do not have the pitch/throttle curves anywhere near right, but the radio is solid. I suspect that the S75 servos would be a huge improvement over the stock Walkeras as well. I never got more than 10 feet away from the helicopter, so this was not a valid test. People on the RC Groups forums are raving about the Spectrum so it seems to be doing well so far. I got it because my Optic 6 likes to just stop working after about 10-15 minutes or so. I dorked my Shogun a couple of times when I was attempting to isolate the problem. The last time, I flew the pack out, landed, and as I was carrying the helicopter back to the pits the radio died. The TX is now relegated to simulator duty! The Spectrum does support CCPM, so you will be fine there. You will need a separate gyro and two ESC's, one for the main motor and one for the tail. Somewhere I think I have bookmarked a website with instructions for hooking up "separates", but I have not tried this. I just finished flight number 27 on the VNR3D. I have had, in all these flights, only one glitch (which may have been my thumbs). The radio is very solid. I have been flying up and around, so it is not just at "hover distance". I do have the antenna routed through a rubber grommeted hole in the lower front of the canopy, through a plastic tube tie-wrapped to the landing gear struts, and taped to the tail fine at the back. I have never cared for the way most of the factories wrap the antenna around the landing gear struts. Again, the Radio and 4-in-1 on the Venom, look just like Walkera, but they work well. I cannot swear that they are identical and will work together, but I would bet on it. I do not want to lead you astray here (i.e. spend your hard earned money for you). Venom does state that their radio is proprietary and will not work with other brands, but this is another similarity to the Walkera. On the RC groups forums, people are complaining about set screws not being tight, the seesaw and flybar control tray (flybar cage) breaking, but I do not think anyone has mentioned a radio glitch.

acebusa -> RE: Walkera 22E Lets Talk (1/24/2006 6:33:04 PM)
Well what do you think? Should I go with a spektrum dx6 Witch will cost me around $200 + 2 esc, and gyro that will cost me around another $150 So it gets pretty costly. I Could just by the tx, and rx from venom, Do you think it is built better? I think this combo could only cost around $100, will it support a esc, and brushless motor from the #4 channel of the reciever like the walkera? I am just wondering if it is worth $350 to change everything over. That would be a good start on a nicer heli.

acebusa -> RE: Walkera 22E Lets Talk (1/24/2006 6:50:59 PM)
Where can I order the tx, and rx for venom? Do you have a website, or Phone#?

Ah Clem -> RE: Walkera 22E Lets Talk (1/24/2006 7:18:52 PM)
Ace, The Spectrum would probably be the best thing to do, and would allow you to use the radio in other helicopters and park flyers. My guess is that you can probably just buy the Venom 4-in-1 on the same frequency as your Walkera Tx and it will work. Again, this is a guess, as I have not tried it. The other alternative is to buy the VNR3D, and use the Walkera as one full set of spare parts. They seem to go for around $220.00, with some claiming to have gotten them for around $200. The 800 number for Venom is 800-705-0620. The website is: http://www.venom-aircorps.com/ Have you been over to the RC Groups site yet? There is a lot of discussion with the manufacturer contributing. I do not think that they will entertain questions about Walkera, but the information is, I think, useful to all of us. The website is here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=455241 There are also some good threads on the Spectrum on that forum. Please keep us all posted!

acebusa -> RE: Walkera 22E Lets Talk (1/24/2006 7:42:38 PM)
Thanks Ah, Ok, I just talked to Ryan at venom, and he seems to think that the rx from venom should give me no problems. I he said he would stand behind his products, so I may just try the venom rx, and mabee tx, looks like around $60 for the rx, and 70 for the tx. I havent quite decided. They look just alike, I hope they are not make by the same company, Venom wants about twice what the dragon fly rx cost, Mabee the dragon fly rx is just a clone of this and uses cheaper electronics.

Ah Clem -> RE: Walkera 22E Lets Talk (1/25/2006 4:26:35 AM)
Chris from Venom posted this on another forum. I hope he does not mind my posting it here. It will, hopefully, help 22E owners as well as VNR3D owners: Here are a few updates from another thread on RCgroups We are providing an update to this issue. Initial blade pitch set up The blades should be at 0deg. pitch in Normal Mode when the throttle stick is at 0-50% range. Then from 50% and up the pitch has to move into the positive range. 1. unplug the motor wires to the main motor and tail ( mark these plugs so you dont mix them up ) 2. turn on the radio and plug in a battery to the heli while sitting flat on a table or level surface. 3 in Normal Mode, move the TH stick to the 50% position, maybe move it through the hole range first then back to 50% and stop. 4. observe the blade pitch. 5. adjust the long link from the swashplate so that the blades are set to 0-.5deg. positive pitch. Make them even. KEEP THE FLYBAR LEVEL TO THE GROUND AND SQUARE TO THE MAIN SHAFT AT ALL TIMES WHEN CHECKING AND ADJUSTING. 6.turn the heli off (unplug the batt.) and reconnect the motor plugs 7.WHEN TURNING THE MODEL ON MAKE SURE THE MODEL IS SITTING ON LEVEL GROUND SO THE GYRO INITIATES PROPERLY. 8. plug in a fully charged battery (radio turned on first) and test hover the model. Reset the tracking if need be but if the above adjustment was done correctly the tracking should be spot on. TIP: 1. use a micro heli pitch guage, drafting square with reference lines to 0deg. or some form of indicator to set the blades. Otherwise trial and error works too. 2.Ajust the head block to the top of the machined flat on the main shaft and tighten the set screw there. Do not tighten the set screw above the flat on the round shaft. So to be clear the set screw presses against the flat on the shaft but it can slide up or down within the flat on the shaft. Make sure its at the top of the flat and tighten it. Use Loctite!!!! To check the pitch in 3D mode follow the same steps as above except switch the radio to FLIGHT MODE 1 on the toggle switch. Follow the steps and adjust for 0deg. pitch at 50% TH stick and try to get the pos/neg pitch to be equal. It should work out to be about 10deg +/- pitch. Use the pitch range nob on the top left as well. TO SLOW THE RESPONSE OF THE MODEL Take a look at the servo horns. There are two more holes in from the stock postion the swashplate link can be moved to. 1. remove the pin from the clevis, its brass 2. slide the clevis over one hole towards the center of the servo and insert the pin 3. repeat this for all the servos 4. check your pitch again and tracking if you changed the pitch. You may have to lengthen the links half a turn or so (all 3 equally) 5. test hover and see if you like it. TIP: 1. if your a novice heli pilot please use training gear to give you a larger base to land on. This will keep you from tipping over easily. 2. hover the model at least 6in. off the ground for better control. The air is slightly less turbulent and makes it easier. You will have to build up the nerve to do it but its better the higher you go. 3. train yourself to shut the power off before the model hits something. The sooner you do this the less the damage will be compared to crashing under power. 4. look for damaged, cracked parts and loose screws and bolts all of the time before and after each flight. You can and will lose (read crash) the model if you dont keep up the maintenance an intricate machine like these helicopters require. JUST BECAUSE ITS AN ARF DOSNT MEAN IT WILL FLY FOREVER UNCHECKED! Even the first flight out of the box! PREFLIGHT CHECK! PREFLIGHT CHECK! PREFLIGHT CHECK! LOCK AND UNLOCKED DIP SWITCH #8 The locking feature is very simple; 1. To have full control over the pitch range of the VNR3D the #8 DIP stitch on the back of the radio must be in the unlocked position. 2. While "UNLOCKED" the pitch range and mixing nobs are active and will change the pitch characteristics while in use. 3. To save the settings you want just slide the #8 DIP switch back to "LOCK" position. TIP: If you are not comfortable with the VNR3D yet, land before you adjust the pitch range to avoid any accidents. You do not have to be flying to make any adjustments to the pitch settings. WARNING! DO NOT SWITCH ANY OF THE OTHER DIP SWITCHES!! doing so will change the ccpm mixing, servo reversing, etc. Sorry about the confusion on this, we are updating the instructions and our customer service department can also help anyone out if there are still any questions. CARBON FIBER BLADES The CF blades are slightly stiffer and so it will react faster, just what you wanted to hear right!? LOL You will notice it more in 3D flight than in normal flying until you whip it around. The sound is different, smoother sound I think and a louder pop than the foam blades. They take more abuse than the foam blades, you can touch the tip to the ground and not blow it off, ask me how I know this. You will be very happy with these blades. Chris

freeonthree -> RE: Walkera 22E Lets Talk (1/25/2006 4:38:44 AM)
My #8 dip switch doesn't work like that. With the switch in the lock position, I can change the pitch of the blades with the throttle (PZT) knob. This confuses me... This is with the motors unplugged by the way, in case it matters...

RCandME -> RE: Walkera 22E Lets Talk (1/25/2006 12:51:23 PM)
Just a quick note.. I see that there's lots of people out there looking for the 22e parts and esp that HM-22e-z-38 and sim cable.. All the parts to include the brushless kit and li-pos can be found at www.rcandme.com Just thought it might help.. thats all..

acebusa -> RE: Walkera 22E Lets Talk (1/25/2006 3:36:14 PM)
If I go with the spektrum dx6 do I need a mixer too? Or does it only need esp, for the main, tail, and a gyro?

skidkid269 -> RE: Walkera 22E Lets Talk (1/25/2006 5:58:34 PM)
I had the same ball break on a crash. I drilled a 1/16 hole where the ball was and installed a 1/16 ball link DUBRO part # 190 (this is a 4 peice kit, I only used the ball and nut) and for $1.50 I was turning again. I just performed the same repair on the flybar link and blade holder (broke those when I hit the washer while trying to hover in the garage) and both are working. I am using this as a temp fix but am seriously thinking about replacing all the upper balls with steel ones.

Ah Clem -> RE: Walkera 22E Lets Talk (1/25/2006 7:25:36 PM)
Ace, The transmitter has Revo mixing (throttle to rudder), so I am guessing that you won't need a mixer. If you get a heading hold gyro, your won't need the Revo mixing.

RCandME -> RE: Walkera 22E Lets Talk (1/25/2006 7:43:39 PM)
Yes the receiver for the transmitter does have the mixer built in and can cotrol the Gyro even dual. the only ESC you would need is for Brushless.. Thanks

sfinckster -> RE: Walkera 22E Lets Talk (1/25/2006 7:59:41 PM)
RCandME, I'm glad to see that you are not trying to rip people off with your shipping charges like so many others are doing.

RCandME -> RE: Walkera 22E Lets Talk (1/25/2006 8:03:14 PM)
Thanks I appreciate that, No we believe in making it real and most of all getting the items there in days, not weeks. Thanks again for recognizing that.

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