RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ    Gallery
View related threads: (in this forum | in all forums)

Logged in as Guest



Users viewing this topic: none
    Search This Thread  
 
Printable Version

All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> "1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes >> RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ
Page: <<   < prev  1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 [9]

Tower Hobbies Get Coupon Codes Brands  
Login
Message << Older Topic   Newer Topic >>
RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ - 4/3/2011 7:19 PM   
MrGoodwreck



Posts: 133
Score: 100
Joined: 12/6/2001
Last Login: 5/22/2013
From: Monroe, WA, USA
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: Cox International

Here is a link to a fuel guide


Thank you very much.

This may seem like a silly question, but...

They also have the Sig in 10%...

Could I mix the quart of 35%, and the quart of 10% in result of getting closer to 25%?

_____________________________

The real Ken of RCU. Accept no substitutes!
AMA 706166

Hide Signatures

(in reply to Cox International)
       Post #: 201

RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ - 4/3/2011 11:31 PM   
Cox International



Posts: 324
Score: 100
Joined: 2/9/2009
Last Login: 12/26/2012
From: Williams Lake, BC, CANADA
Status: offline 		As long as you end up with at least 10% castor oil (the balance can be synthetic) you should be fine.

Bernie


Hide Signatures

(in reply to MrGoodwreck)
       Post #: 202

RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ - 4/3/2011 11:43 PM   
Tom Nied



Posts: 1275
Score: 100
Joined: 2/19/2002
Last Login: 5/25/2013
From: Carol Stream, IL, USA
Status: offline 		If I may, I would strongly recommend Sig Champion 25. No fussing with different fluids, pretty good results just as it is. I went through the same questions. Starting is easy and I'm just about hitting the advertised numbers. And I would think most hobby shops could get it for you.

Hide Signatures

(in reply to Cox International)
       Post #: 203

RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ - 5/15/2011 1:02 PM   
astronomer1


 

Posts: 62
Score: 100
Joined: 1/18/2007
Last Login: 1/18/2013
From: Loveland, CO, USA
Status: offline
I have been annealing glow head gaskets, COX and others, for lots of years and have been able to get a lot more mileage out of them.
I do it by hanging the washers on a piece of coat hanger wire and heating with my gas range. Could use Propane torch. 3-4 Cox washers should be hung together so they do not melt as easily when heated. I then heat them briefly until they have a bright orange glow like a glow plug element. I then very qiuickly dip them into a glass of cold H2o. Heating takes at most 10 sec. lest they melt. They become discolored but otherwise there does not seem to be any other ill effects. Has any one else used this practice?
Now on to the next question. Which is better to use on a COX engine? Phenolic or Stainless Thrust Washers. Other than longevity, I lean toward Stainless though they are hard to lap if necessary to the needed thickness on a flat surface and fine emery paper. Phenolic washers are very easy to lap. Until recently, I have only used Shim Washers to adjust crankshaft end play. Now I find it imperative to use washers to reduce wear with the use of my home made cluged together electric starter.


Hide Signatures

(in reply to Tom Nied)
       Post #: 204

RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ - 6/25/2011 6:27 AM   
Frank Schwartz


 

Posts: 284
Score: 100
Joined: 5/1/2002
Last Login: 5/23/2013
From: Hendersonville, TN, USA
Status: offline 		Just cleaned up two Texaco Cox's that had set up a year or three or four. One had a gasket between the tank and the crankcase and the other did not. Does anyone know where I can find another gasket?
I am planning to use these in 1/2A Texaco competition and am using the Cox 7X3.5 grey props. The engines run pretty well but both seem to have a long flat spot in setting the needle valves...plus they do not seem to run over a minute. Maybe my Cox fuel is old. I have some RedMax 30% I will try tomorrow. Also the engines do not seem to really want to scream...if I lean them out they run for a while and quit.
Also I have a conversion head to allow a standard short plug. Is this legal in competition? Anything to gain with this?
I have some of the "conversion kits" but the tanks are bigger. Is this the legal one, or the smaller one that came on the engine.
Finally, with that little plastic reed valve and the holder for it...the holder has two tabs...are they supposed to at the center of the reed or at each end? Sorry to sound dumb..but I really don't know.
Thanks for help..
Frank Schwartz

_____________________________

Frank Schwartz

Hide Signatures

(in reply to Silvaire)
       Post #: 205

RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ - 6/25/2011 3:13 PM   
Andrew


 

Posts: 2930
Score: 105
Joined: 2/4/2003
Last Login: 5/25/2013
From: Murray, KY, USA
Status: offline 		Gaskets are available from COX International. When you replace the crankcase gasket, I would suggest that you also get some replacement venturi gaskets - if old or malformed, these gaskets can cause more aggrevation than a man should endure.

If you're getting around a minute runtime, check your fuel pickup tube. If it's the original, it likely has hardened and should be replaced or it may not be fully pressed onto the fuel nipple on the backplate. Either way, once your fuel level drops below the level of the nipple, the engine sucks air and quits.

Conversion heads using a standard plug tend to perform poorly compared to the stock head or the Gailbreath/NELSON conversion.

It doesn't matter about the tabs on the holder over time the reeds may tend to rotate.

andrew

_____________________________

the "other" andrew
I'm not older than dirt, but I can remember when it was patent pending

Hide Signatures

(in reply to Frank Schwartz)
       Post #: 206

RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ - 6/25/2011 5:32 PM   
Frank Schwartz


 

Posts: 284
Score: 100
Joined: 5/1/2002
Last Login: 5/23/2013
From: Hendersonville, TN, USA
Status: offline 		Great! I found the page immediately....now I can stock up on parts I might need...like the little o ring, too...
Thank you so very much.
Frank Schwartz AMA 123
85 years young...still building and flying...who remembers when the only sure thiings in life were death and taxes......now it's death and taxes ..and shipping and handling...

_____________________________

Frank Schwartz

Hide Signatures

(in reply to Andrew)
       Post #: 207

RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ - 6/25/2011 7:03 PM   
Andrew


 

Posts: 2930
Score: 105
Joined: 2/4/2003
Last Login: 5/25/2013
From: Murray, KY, USA
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: Frank Schwartz

Frank Schwartz AMA 123


That's a great AMA number.

Good luck in you!!

_____________________________

the "other" andrew
I'm not older than dirt, but I can remember when it was patent pending

Hide Signatures

(in reply to Frank Schwartz)
       Post #: 208

RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ - 8/6/2011 9:26 AM   
TonyH3US


 

Posts: 1
Score: 100
Joined: 8/6/2011
Last Login: 8/11/2011
From: , UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline 		Great thread - learned a lot from reading this - thanks Guys!

Does anyone have any suggestions for sourcing a muffler/silencer for the .049's? Watching Cox International, E-Bay etc. but they seem to be rarer than hen's teeth...


Hide Signatures

(in reply to BMatthews)
       Post #: 209

RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ - 2/16/2012 1:34 AM   
proctor


 

Posts: 25
Score: 100
Joined: 5/29/2002
Last Login: 5/9/2013
From: tain, , UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline 		Dens Hobby Supplies here in the UK currently have them in stock for about £12

Hide Signatures

(in reply to TonyH3US)
       Post #: 210

RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ - 4/10/2012 11:58 PM   
AMB


 

Posts: 6499
Score: 110
Joined: 6/10/2003
Last Login: 5/25/2013
From: winter park, FL, USA
Status: online 		easy speed control on cox 049- reed valve engines, Davis diesel head no carb needed,
just attach a small servo arm to the top of the compression screw, removing the spring will lighten the load so it can be controlled by a small servo and control rod
1/4 to 1/3 turn on the screw will back off the compression to really slow the engine enough so plane can be landed

Also the Davis killer crank is a hard chrome alloy steel not just the hardened common stuff, also note there is no thinning of the shaft in the middle, not needed
when thinned creates excess wear on crankcase since bearing surface reduced allowing a shaft wobble this motion shaft not running true in case can break a crankpin fuel to use Davis 1/2 A martin

< Message edited by AMB -- 4/24/2012 3:09 AM >

Hide Signatures

(in reply to MrGoodwreck)
       Post #: 211

RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ - 4/24/2012 9:46 PM   
RobinB66


 

Posts: 73
Score: 100
Joined: 6/28/2005
Last Login: 2/27/2013
From: Wentworth, MO, USA
Status: offline 		does anyone knoe where i can find a dragonfly tank. looking to upgrade the tank on my rc bee. don't have the engine with me but here's a pic of what it looks like!!

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


Hide Signatures

(in reply to Cox International)
       Post #: 212

RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ - 2/10/2013 9:41 AM   
mick1404



Posts: 63
Score: 100
Joined: 4/8/2012
Last Login: 5/15/2013
From: Flinders ViewQueensland, AUSTRALIA
Status: offline 		hello all,
I just gave one of my Cox .049 a bench run today with 25% nitro and with 25% castor and after the first tank, I noticed there was a bit of slop/play in the crankshaft/crankcase. Does anyone know what the limits are (if there are any) regarding end float and crankshaft/crankcase clearance? I will bring the engine in question to my work where I can check these dimensions on a bench with a dial indicator and see what figures I get.
Thanks

_____________________________

suck, squeeze, bang, blow. Thermodynamics, love it.

Hide Signatures

(in reply to TGC)
       Post #: 213

RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ - 2/10/2013 11:19 AM   
Mr Cox



Posts: 2902
Score: 102
Joined: 7/20/2007
Last Login: 5/25/2013
From: Karlstad, SWEDEN
Status: offline 		The sloppy ones often run better/faster, so don't worry to much about it...

Hide Signatures

(in reply to mick1404)
       Post #: 214

RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ - 2/10/2013 1:34 PM   
mick1404



Posts: 63
Score: 100
Joined: 4/8/2012
Last Login: 5/15/2013
From: Flinders ViewQueensland, AUSTRALIA
Status: offline 		sweet, thanks, I will end up getting a phenolic washer as well just to remove a bit of the end float as the engine in question will be used in a pusher configuration.
Thanks again.

_____________________________

suck, squeeze, bang, blow. Thermodynamics, love it.

Hide Signatures

(in reply to Mr Cox)
       Post #: 215

Page:   <<   < prev  1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 [9]
All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> "1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes >> RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ
Page: <<   < prev  1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 [9]





Jump to:


 
Google 



Search | Marketplace | Event Calendar | Local Clubs | Magazine | Product Ratings | New Products | Discussion Forums

Photo Gallery | Instructor Search | Field|Track|Marina Search

Advertisers | Hobby Vendor Resources | Rate Manufacturers | Sign In/Sign Up

SITE MAP!   : :   FORUM RULES

RC Universe is a service of Internet Brands, Inc. Copyright © 2001-2013.

Charities we support that also need your help
Yorkie Rescue | Humane Society | ASPCA | Crohn's-Colitis America


0.422RCU1