RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ  
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RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ - 7/13/2008 4:32:36 AM   
flymac


 

Posts: 26
Joined: 2/28/2008
From: Chicago, IL, USA
Status: offline 		I haven't used this .049 in a few years, as a matter of fact I'm just getting back into the hobby. So I took it apart, cleaned and oiled it, looks almost new. Think I will use it on a control line. I'm not looking for a speed demon, just something for Sunday flying. If the star shape doesn't work out I will try the oval shape. Thanks for the info and the link.

(in reply to jetpack)
       Post #: 101

RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ - 7/13/2008 6:21:03 AM   
jetpack



Posts: 1565
Joined: 10/2/2002
From: Portage, IN, USA
Status: offline 		I got all my 1/2A stuff out a couple years back and want to get started into them again like you. I collected a lot of engine parts building balsa control line, but now with micro gear I'm looking at building R/C with them, and started pouring over the threads here on RCU about them and it's amazing how much has been shared about them.

_____________________________

http://s231.photobucket.com/albums/ee247/jetpack_photos/

(in reply to flymac)
       Post #: 102

RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ - 8/18/2008 7:03:51 PM   
ddd


 

Posts: 249
Joined: 9/28/2002
From: CT
Status: offline 		Hi,

I would like to correct some fact that are not correct. Cox went to plastic back plates because the Mylar reeds warped on the metal backplate from heat soak after shut down. We also sent them Teflon reeds which would not do that but they cost to much but we kept on making the Tef-reeds. The loose fit needle and air leak is corrected with a piece of silcone fuel line. Better economy can be had by putting the cylinder on the side so hot exhaust does not blow over the tank vent and act like an air brush. Don't forget to check to check the ball socket fit it should rotate but not move in and out.

Bob Davis
Davis Diesel

(in reply to BMatthews)
       Post #: 103

RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ - 10/2/2008 11:11:57 PM   
buzzard23


 

Posts: 1
Joined: 9/24/2006
From: clearwater, FL, USA
Status: offline 		My Cox 0.049's seem to loose compression after a run or two. Or abought 1/2 way through
a run RPM go's up then down and quits. I'm using 5% nitro, and 22% oil. What am I doing
wrong?

Regards,
Buzzard

(in reply to flybug)
       Post #: 104

RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ - 10/3/2008 12:32:45 AM   
aeomaster32



Posts: 101
Joined: 11/4/2006
From: Maroochy River, AUSTRALIA
Status: offline 		One possibility is that as the fuel level drops, it uncovers an air leak in the tank. Check that the fuel pick-up fits the nipple snugly, and goes all the way to the bottom of the tank. Check also the small "O" ring in the centre. Use no less than 10% nitro for best results. More if duration is not a concern. I use 20% oil so your 22% seems reasonable. Read through this thread, and you will see that it pays to re-assemble the engine with great care to avoid air leaks. Make sure your fuel is clean as it only takes a speck to affect the reed.

_____________________________

It's better to break ground and head into the wind than to break wind and head into the ground.

(in reply to buzzard23)
       Post #: 105

RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ - 10/3/2008 2:24:21 AM   
ddd


 

Posts: 249
Joined: 9/28/2002
From: CT
Status: offline 		Cox .049's are made to run on 15 to 30% nitro and 22 to 25% castor oil.

Bob Davis
DDD

(in reply to buzzard23)
       Post #: 106

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