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RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ - 3/21/2009 9:57 PM   
Andrew


 

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I bought a gallon of Trinity platinum fuel 30% Nitro 8% lubricant. If I am using Arty's fuel calc spreadsheet correctly, adding 284 mL of castor oil to a half gallon of fuel will give me 26.1% Nitro and 20% lubricant. Can you verify that <snip>


Randy

Your numbers are correct WRT nitro and total oil. However, Trinity Platinum uses a synthetic/castor mix for their oil, i.e., part of the original 8% is made up of synthetic and part is castor. Generally, oil ratios run somewhere between 80/20 to 50/50 for the synthetic/castor mix. If the oil is 80/20, your castor content would be 14.3%; if the ratio is 50/50, the total castor will be 16.4%.

Convertional wisdom has been that the COX engines need a higher level of castor than either the NORVELs or Wasps due to the rod/piston joint. Without knowing the Trinity oil ratio, my inclination would be to raise the oil content to 22%. This will give a nitro level of 25.4%. Since you're running a reedie rather than a TD and are not looking for all out speed, you will get a reasonable level of nitro with sufficient oil for good longevity. With 22% total oil, castor content will be 18.5% if Trinity's oil is 50/50; 16.6% if the ratio is 80/20.

To get 22% oil, add 345 ml. or 11.5 oz. of castor to a half gallon.

Since there is a lot of reedie experience in the forum, maybe some of the other guys will jump in with their favorite blends.

andrew


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RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ - 5/15/2009 3:54 AM   
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Status: offline 		Does anyone have a secret trick for restoring old beryllium copper reeds for the Cox .049? I bought some parts on eBay for the reeds, and some are distorted. When these reeds were new, did they lie flat, or were they bent like an oil can bottom? Before anyone says anything about it, I know about the hazardous nature of Beryllium copper, and I will be handling them with nitrile gloves when polishing them.

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RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ - 5/15/2009 6:43 AM   
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Status: offline 		I just replace them with nylon or teflon reeds. but in a pinch you can use some aluminum mag wheel polish and just rub it between your fingers to polish it very carefully.

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RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ - 5/15/2009 7:06 AM   
jetpack



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Status: offline 		I was shown one time how to polish reeds.

Just like Jeffie said with using polish, but make your own sheet of "sandpaper" with it by cleaning a glass surface then laying down a sheet of paper with a smear of polish worked into the surface, and rubbing the reed around with your fingertip, going in and out of the polish.

Start slow and work in a wear patch before putting any type of pressure on it or you'll crease the reed if a corner catches.

The Space Bug and Space Hopper reeds pictured below were done that way. I used a standard sheet of white copy paper and Mother's Billet Polish. Use a clean sheet of glass or mirror for a work surface. Any pebbles under the paper or in your lapping circle will draw lines through your reed. Keep things clean and don't hesitate on making a new polish area on your paper. Those reeds started out in as bad as shape as your's seem to be and I got an absolute mirror polish on them and they seal up quick and air tight.

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< Message edited by jetpack -- 5/15/2009 7:21 AM >

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RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ - 5/15/2009 8:16 AM   
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"As beryllium compounds are toxic there are some safety concerns for handling its alloys. In solid form and as finished parts, beryllium copper presents no particular health hazard. However, breathing its dust, as formed when machining or welding may cause serious lung damage."

If this is true you really have nothing to worry over in handling these pieces unless you make dust with them by filing or sanding or welding and then inhale the dust or fumes.

The way I read this I take it to mean that it is hazardous to make these reeds but not to handle or use them.

REF: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beryllium_copper

As for using them They should be fine as they are or if you want you might reverse them. I would not try to flatten them as that may be more dangerous than using them as you found them.

As you found them they most likely were completely functional. If it works, don't fix it!
Try them as they are noting their curvature.

If you try jetpack's idea of a paste to polish them make sure you use the nitrile gloves but I would not expect dust since it is wet polished.

Robert



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RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ - 5/15/2009 3:29 PM   
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quote:

ORIGINAL: jetpack

I was shown one time how to polish reeds.

Just like Jeffie said with using polish, but make your own sheet of "sandpaper" with it by cleaning a glass surface then laying down a sheet of paper with a smear of polish worked into the surface, and rubbing the reed around with your fingertip, going in and out of the polish.




Now that is a pretty neat idea. I have never run across this one before but I do use a lot of wet and dry silicon carbide paper in grades up to 1200 or so wetted out with WD40 on a 1/2" piece of glass that I use for a lap but I will be giving this trick a try and will be worthwhile adding to my pile of "tools"

cheers, Graham in Ottawa Canada

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RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ - 5/15/2009 8:49 PM   
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quote:

ORIGINAL: GrahamC


quote:

ORIGINAL: jetpack

I was shown one time how to polish reeds.

Just like Jeffie said with using polish, but make your own sheet of "sandpaper" with it by cleaning a glass surface then laying down a sheet of paper with a smear of polish worked into the surface, and rubbing the reed around with your fingertip, going in and out of the polish.




Now that is a pretty neat idea. I have never run across this one before but I do use a lot of wet and dry silicon carbide paper in grades up to 1200 or so wetted out with WD40 on a 1/2" piece of glass that I use for a lap but I will be giving this trick a try and will be worthwhile adding to my pile of "tools"

cheers, Graham in Ottawa Canada


I use a piece of sheet or bar metal like copper, brass or soft aluminum as a lap and use tripoli compound mixed with oil for rough lapping and jeweler's rouge in light oil for fine finishing. It can give a very fine finish, just like a piece of jewelry.

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RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ - 5/17/2009 5:08 AM   
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Hi everyone,

I'm new to this Forum.  What's this about polishing reeds?  Does this enhance performance?  How??

I can see if the reed is pitted or otherwise marked how this would make a difference, but is there any other reason??

Thanks for the education,

Bob




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RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ - 5/17/2009 5:57 AM   
jetpack



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I think polishing allows the reed to float better within the cage its clipped into and allows a better seal on the venturi with longer wear.  A polished e clip wouldn't hurt either I dont think.

The old star reeds are allowed to float in the cage so making it easy for it to do so makes sense to me.

Reeds can get gummed up where polishing them like this is about the only way to really clean down to metal again.

I suppose you could also work the thickness of the reed in different areas to get a better action out of it by using the cream, say thinning it in the center to allow it to dish out and seal better around the lip of the opening.  I've never experimented in that respect but it did cross my mind.



< Message edited by jetpack -- 5/17/2009 6:08 AM >

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RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ - 6/2/2009 12:07 AM   
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Status: offline 		At the age of 54 I've been revisiting my boyhood hobby of 1/2A control line planes. I dug out my old Cox engines and started bidding/buying on Cox parts & engines online.

One of the engines I bought was an older Babe Bee with a larger fuel tank (no cross vents). The conn rod to crankshaft fit is so loose that it slips off. The is also slop at the piston conrod ball joint. 

I've read all of these posts and thought I'd buy a setting tool, but I'm confused about a couple of basic things:

What method do I use to remove the piston? Do I need to remove the cylinder?

Do I need to tighten the crank pin. too? I was thinking a couple of light raps from a pin punch would work.

This forum is very informative. Even if my 14 year old doesn't grasp onto this stuff, I'm glad I had a chance to relive MY youth.  

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RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ - 6/2/2009 12:44 AM   
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Status: offline 		Welcome to the 1/2A fourm!

I think you have a goner there my friend. Sounds like time to replace the piston and cylinder to me.
I have never heard of tightening the crank pin before.
The ball socket in the piston can be reset if you have the reset tools.
Yes, the cylinder needs to be removed to remove the piston.


Go here for some good advice: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_8359846/anchors_8364599/mpage_1/key_/anchor/tm.htm#8364599

Robert


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RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ - 6/11/2009 5:16 AM   
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Status: offline 		I've been reading the Reed Valve FAQ for some time. This is my first post. I have an early Babe Bee engine and would like to know what I can expect RPM wise at 5000 Ft. above sea level with 25% Sig fuel a 6x3 prop. a new stainless steel reed and a standard low compression head.  Presently I am getting 13.5 K RPM when the ambient tem. is around 70deg. F. Is this good or should expect higher RPM's? My TD .049 and .051 engines each only get around 15-16K RPM's under the same conditions except for high compression heads. I think the TD speeds would probably be normal for my altitude.Sorrry about getting into TD engines in this forum. I only mentioned them for reference purposes as they are the only other COX engines that I have.


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RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ - 7/9/2009 5:14 AM   
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Status: offline 		Two other options for 049 gloheads-vintage GloBee heads if you can find them. They work on reed 049s with a timing shim(BETWEEN BOTTOM OF CYLINDER AND CRKCASE) without it will sound like an old hit-and miss -not good. With a shim it is a significant hop up. I am told they work on nonreeds without the shim.A second option is Merlin Glow Plug Co. I have not used these so cannot say anything about them or if they need a shim or not but it is fun to experiment! The Merlin product is available from Campbell Custom Kits on line or Big Auction in Sky. Lee has never steered me wrong in the past so I would say give them a try. Timing shims are easy to find on EBuy also. Both of these are drop in type and come with a clamp ring. If you see an Auction for GloBee and there is no clamp ring, do not buy. I dont think any of the modern clamp rings are a direct replacement for GloBee, so only buy as a set. Once you have a clamp ring, only the drop in element /head need be replaced after the element burns out

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RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ - 7/9/2009 5:18 AM   
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Status: offline 		The w glo heads show up on Ebuy occasiasonally and get a good price as either High Performance or High compression heads. I do not know if either is actual- I have one and have not seen a noticeable difference. I do not,however, have a tach at present.

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RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ - 7/13/2009 3:48 PM   
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Status: offline 		I think it is used-up. I reset the ball socket in the piston, but there is still some play father down the line....conrod to crankshaft and/or crankshaft to crankcase.

Another quick question on a different engine; what tool do you use to remove a cylinder with smaller double exhaust slits? All my other Cox .049's have much larger single exhaust openings that the Cox wrench fits with out problem.

Thanks,

Jon

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RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ - 7/13/2009 5:10 PM   
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Status: offline 		Dual slit cylinders have opposing flats ground into the top fin of the cylinder. You can use a wrench on these flats. If your cylinder is very tight, I would suggest that you leave the glow head in place to help support cylinder walls and avoid getting the upper end out of round.

andrew

< Message edited by Andrew -- 7/13/2009 5:21 PM >

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RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ - 7/17/2009 7:30 AM   
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Status: offline 		This has been a good read. I've recently taken interest in a cigar box that I made that I labeled "1/2A Junkyard". Parts of 1/2A's that I've collected over the years from 1967. Recently I rebuilt a Golden Bee, and test run it. 12,500 rpm over 2 mins 45 secs sweeping what looks like a black Master Airscrew 6-3 prop. I'm elated. A Grace or similar RC plane is a real possibility. It's a kick bringing one of these back to life. I remember as a kid that just the sound of a 1/2A would make me start running for the close by field. My folks could hardly catch me I was out the door so fast. My first experience with a Cox was with a friends Cox PT 19 Flight Trainer CL plane. Back in '67 there seemed to be a lot of Cox .049 activity. Now with smaller and lighter RC systems, RC is quite viable with this engine. There maybe newer 1/2A's that are better, but I just find it a kick that a engine that I was introduced to 40 years ago, is still working. This particular engine I had on Sterling Baby Ringmaster. I flew the heck out of it until it eventually died. It would be cool to put it on a 1/2A RC plane. Thanks guys.

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RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ - 7/17/2009 8:40 AM   
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Status: offline 		Tom You bear good news and I applaud your enthusiasm! However you should be getting better RPMs from your Golden Bee and I suddest changing props to a 5 1/4X4 or something less than a 6X3. You may also need to reset the ball socket on the piston.
Remember also that the Cox engines like high nitro content and lots if not all castor oil in the fuel.

The Grace is a good choice of models to build!

Robert


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RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ - 7/17/2009 8:51 AM   
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Status: offline 		Yeah, I'm going to continue to work on it. The prop I have looks massive compared to the old Cox 6-3. But will see if I can work on the conrod piston tolerance and the seal between the backplate. Oh and the fuel I used was 13 year old Cox fuel that I had. I'm sure some good new fuel might make a difference. But so far, so good.

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RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ - 7/17/2009 9:00 AM   
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Status: offline 		As of July 16, there is a Cox .049 reed valve engine along with a Baby Ringmaster up for auction on that famous auction site we all know about. Do a search for Cox. Click on the newly listed box and go looking for it. You will probably have to go back a few days to find it.

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RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ - 7/17/2009 3:11 PM   
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ORIGINAL: Andrew

Dual slit cylinders have opposing flats ground into the top fin of the cylinder. You can use a wrench on these flats. If your cylinder is very tight, I would suggest that you leave the glow head in place to help support cylinder walls and avoid getting the upper end out of round.

andrew


Andrew,

I know what you mean, but there aren't flats on the top fin (or any fin) of this particular cylinder!

Jon

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RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ - 7/18/2009 6:50 AM   
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ORIGINAL: russiet
I know what you mean, but there aren't flats on the top fin (or any fin) of this particular cylinder!



Jon

Without flats, that leaves you with a few other options.

1. You could use a pair of pliers. But, that's considered bad form, desecration of the engine and would probably get you tarred and feathered by the group here. Heck, it may get me tarred and feathered just for mentioning it.

2. You can cut flats using a Dremel and cutoff wheel - it's been done by some members here, but takes a steady hand.

3. Drill a hole in a block of wood the diameter of the cylinder in the area of the exhaust slits. Cut the block in two, thru the center of the hole, then use it as a clamp to hold the cylinder (a vice works best) while you turn the crankcase.

4. You can wrap the cylinder with a piece of thick leather, then apply pliers. I've done this frequently using a piece of thick strap that I got from the local cobbler. I have used nylon webbing, but the webbing will occasionally cut thru leaving marks on whatever I'm grasping. If the cylinder is very tight, it usually helps to apply heat to the case - a heat gun used for shrinking the plastic coverings works nicely.

5. You can wait for other and perhaps better suggestions for the group here - if one of the regular posters can't answer your question, it probably doesn't have one.

andrew

< Message edited by Andrew -- 7/18/2009 6:52 AM >

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RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ - 7/19/2009 4:05 AM   
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Status: offline 		There's a sponge rubber matting that you can buy at the Kitchen department at Wal-Mart. I believe that it's used for draining dishes. I find that it's excellent for gripping things - it has a lot of 'grip' even though its only about 1/8" thick. That might work along with the wood block idea.

Bob


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RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ - 7/21/2009 5:52 AM   
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Status: offline 		.049 reedie car crankcase advice needed.
I have a new (old stock) car crankcase and and crank
part #190-0, and am wondering what to do as far
as converting it with a prop drive plate.
It's obvious the splined (not tapered type) end of the crankshaft, where the
drive plate would attach, is larger in diameter than both the stock
or the TD .049/.051 one.
I've heard of this conversion being done, but I don't remember how.
Thanks in advance,
D.

< Message edited by dckrsn -- 7/22/2009 4:20 AM >

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RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ - 7/23/2009 5:48 PM   
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quote:

ORIGINAL: Andrew

quote:

ORIGINAL: russiet
I know what you mean, but there aren't flats on the top fin (or any fin) of this particular cylinder!



Jon

Without flats, that leaves you with a few other options.

1. You could use a pair of pliers. But, that's considered bad form, desecration of the engine and would probably get you tarred and feathered by the group here. Heck, it may get me tarred and feathered just for mentioning it.

2. You can cut flats using a Dremel and cutoff wheel - it's been done by some members here, but takes a steady hand.

3. Drill a hole in a block of wood the diameter of the cylinder in the area of the exhaust slits. Cut the block in two, thru the center of the hole, then use it as a clamp to hold the cylinder (a vice works best) while you turn the crankcase.

4. You can wrap the cylinder with a piece of thick leather, then apply pliers. I've done this frequently using a piece of thick strap that I got from the local cobbler. I have used nylon webbing, but the webbing will occasionally cut thru leaving marks on whatever I'm grasping. If the cylinder is very tight, it usually helps to apply heat to the case - a heat gun used for shrinking the plastic coverings works nicely.

5. You can wait for other and perhaps better suggestions for the group here - if one of the regular posters can't answer your question, it probably doesn't have one.

andrew



Suggestion #3 sounds like a winner. Haven't gotten back to that engine to try it. I was running a resurrected Babe Bee .049 with a black widow tank on a 1/2A Sky Ray with my 14 year old daughter last night. Lots of fun. She complained about dizzyness, so I ran into the circle and we transferred the handle without crashing. Of course I did on the third wingover.


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