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RE: Norvel Engine FAQ - 8/5/2007 9:12:43 AM   
Strykaas



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quote:

$44.95 each


What a bargain

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RE: Norvel Engine FAQ - 8/5/2007 10:56:57 AM   
TexasSkyPilot


 

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Wow, $44.95 sounds low, I'm pretty sure I paid a fair amount more than that for mine. But I haven't had time to research it yet, I may still find out it was less.

Jim

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RE: Norvel Engine FAQ - 8/5/2007 1:38:40 PM   
Strykaas



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As any discontinued item, price sky rockets

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RE: Norvel Engine FAQ - 8/5/2007 2:33:06 PM   
bsteckler


 

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Good point. Living as I do here in the sticks, it might be that nobody but me knows - or perhaps even cares - that Norvel is gone, thus the pricing.

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RE: Norvel Engine FAQ - 8/5/2007 4:54:35 PM   
PlaneKrazee



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NIB .074's are selling for up to and over $100.00 on fleabay regularly

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RE: Norvel Engine FAQ - 8/5/2007 4:55:43 PM   
PlaneKrazee



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And the last .074 I bought from a retailer in upper NY state was over $54.00.

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RE: Norvel Engine FAQ - 8/5/2007 9:38:35 PM   
bsteckler


 

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Perhaps I may have finally found the singular benefit to living in BFE. Well, that and the fact that proper dental care is purely optional.

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RE: Norvel Engine FAQ - 8/6/2007 12:49:22 AM   
TexasSkyPilot


 

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EWWWW, bsteckler!
Okay, so I'll strike a balance and put this Norvel .074 up for sale at 75 bucks plus some basic shipping amount like 8 bucks. Enough for the value from the discontinued motors, but less than the E-Bay gouge. I'll use the cash for an electric motor or speed control or RX.

Thanks for helping me on figuring out what the value is, guys....and the humor.

Jim

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RE: Norvel Engine FAQ - 10/19/2007 1:00:33 AM   
lear31A


 

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I travel alot and see these motors alot. Mostly around $50 bucks. They are great for sure. Heres a pic of one of mine.

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RE: Norvel Engine FAQ - 10/23/2007 6:59:02 PM   
tag-RCU


 

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From: Pittsburgh, PA, USA
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Anyone know where I could find a prop drive washer for a Norvel .061 ? Is there any source for parts left? The AP won't fit as it has a different configuration. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Tag

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RE: Norvel Engine FAQ - 10/30/2007 2:14:44 AM   
ladihoe


 

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I hope you are still into the small engines. I have a norvel big mig .061, and need to find somewhere to buy the prop from. the shaft diameter is only about 1/8 inch.
can you help?

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RE: Norvel Engine FAQ - 10/30/2007 11:50:58 AM   
DeviousDave


 

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Any Hobby Shop can order you APC props for your motor. They are pretty cheap, so I'd get all of the common sizes:

6-3
5.7-3
5.5-2
5-3

etc.

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RE: Norvel Engine FAQ - 10/31/2007 11:01:15 AM   
Luna_Rendezvous



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My NIB .061 Big Mig arrived today, gave it a through clean and reassembled with a good lube of caster. This being my first Norvel I have no Idea exactly what I've bought and what to expect with performance (no instruction manual), if some one could give me a positive ID and age, it would be much appreciated, the carbie looks like it is glued into the case, is this a design flaw? Also what sort of fuel should I mix for it... running in and normal operation, I have AA castor and Coolpower Blue lubricants available.

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RE: Norvel Engine FAQ - 10/31/2007 12:01:34 PM   
1705493-AndyW


 

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Luna,

Carb glued in is a design flaw only because they didn't use a good glue. Redo it with J B Weld and you'll have no trouble. You have an early, AAN engine, not the Revlite. AAN, Aluminum piston with a Nickle plated, Aluminum cylinder.

Revlite had the cylinder hard anodized with the piston nickle plated. A very good concept but if set up too tight could give you grief. As it is, the engine you have should be run in like any normal engine of the ABC/AAN/AAC type. Don't spend a lot of time running it rich. Take it to JUST lean, a very slight burble here and there. You DON'T want the engine to run too cool as with rich running. The cylinder won't expand adequately and you'll wear out that very useful "pinch" at TDC that gives these types of engine their power. If you got an engine with little pinch, don't worry about break in, just fly it with a mildly lean setting and turn it in as you get a few tanks through it.

One big thing in MY book. Most throttled, 1/2A RC engines don't give you a means to adjust the low end mixture. As such, at low throttle, they typically load up with fuel during prolonged idling and give poor transition.

HOWEVER, with a ganging of tolerances and other factors, you may get lucky and get one that the low end's mixture, just by chance, is right on. Sometimes you find that the main needle has quite a broad range. You're good and lean and you turn in the needle some more without going any leaner,,,, at the top end. You can use this to adjust for your idle mixture. Just keep leaning the top end without going overlean till you get the idle mixture just right. All the .074s behave this way, only a few .06s do it. I do this on the ground and then do a final, fine tuning, in the air.

Here, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5U6Kk7L3HVE

you can see a dieselized .06 with the stock throttle, idling and transitioning quite nicely. Ideally, I would install an adjustable airbleed, just in case it's needed.

On glow, even though it's not recommended, I've had good luck with plain old, Cool Power 25%. Spiking the 18% all synthetic oil by adding Castor to make it 20 or 22% would probably give you some added insurance and longevity.

Your mentioning lubricants implies that you'll be mixing your own fuel. Be aware that small engines always need a fair bit of nitro to do their best work. Power AND throttling will improve much with at least some nitro and ideally, up to 25%

Hope that helps and yes, just my opinion. Other opinions are welcomed and encouraged. There are sixteen ways to skin a cat and every one of them will give you a good result.

< Message edited by 1705493-AndyW -- 10/31/2007 12:05:08 PM >


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RE: Norvel Engine FAQ - 10/31/2007 12:11:19 PM   
1705493-AndyW