RE: Norvel Engine FAQ  
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RE: Norvel Engine FAQ - 7/7/2008 6:49:54 PM   
AndyW


 

Posts: 1918
Joined: 1/17/2003
From: Timmins, ON, CANADA
Status: offline 		Ron,

I'm not surprised that the prop can make a difference in idling and transition but I'm surprised that your Norvel .074 is having problems. Try tweaking the idle with the main screw. Then check the top end to make sure it's not overlean. In most cases, you can find a sweet spot where idle mixture and top end are perfect. Another item that can affect this is the health of the glow plug. A leaking carb doesn't help, though.

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Andy Woitowicz

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       Post #: 301

RE: Norvel Engine FAQ - 8/16/2008 6:53:28 AM   
Palm Pilot



Posts: 11
Joined: 12/28/2002
From: Buford, GA, USA
Status: offline 		Wow, for the first time in 4 years I finally had a chance to open up my moving boxes that contained RC equipment. I forgot I have a brand new pristine Revlite .074 still in the box never used & purchased in 2004 plus a new receiver, servos, herr mustange, etc. Question, I did spend some time looking at this forum trying to find a solution for new glow heads - the only option I see is drilling out my current new head for a turbo plug? The other sites listed in this forum not longer sell a pre-package option that I can just purchase - unless someone has come onto the scene lately? Is there any new developments? If not, I may jsut stick with my 25 thru 46 engine planes and leave the 1/2a's alone.


(in reply to AndyW)
       Post #: 302

RE: Norvel Engine FAQ - 8/16/2008 7:12:27 AM   
AndyW


 

Posts: 1918
Joined: 1/17/2003
From: Timmins, ON, CANADA
Status: offline 		Yes, you can take burned out plugs and tap them for turbos. Standard plugs will lose you 1500 or so RPM.

Here's how its done.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_4533758/mpage_1/key_/tm.htm

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Andy Woitowicz

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       Post #: 303

RE: Norvel Engine FAQ - 8/17/2008 3:41:45 AM   
Andrew


 

Posts: 1949
Joined: 2/4/2003
From: Murray, KY,
Status: offline 		Here's a substitution I've been making lately in hopes of keeping my NORVELs up and running. The cylinder screws are quite small, M2 x 6mm, and if broken off flush with the crankcase flange, can be difficult to get out. At best, it's frustrating. At worst, you can't get it out.

The holes are drilled and tapped all the way thru the flange. I've been replacing the originals with M2 x 8mm socket head screws. These extend far enough below the crankcase flange so they may be grabbed with a pair of needle nose pliers and turned out the bottom if it gets sheared off flush with the top of the case. With no more cases available, $.35 may keep one in service.

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       Post #: 304

RE: Norvel Engine FAQ - 8/17/2008 12:03:18 PM   
PlaneKrazee



Posts: 3541
Joined: 5/15/2002
From: Westerly, RI, USA
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: AndyW

Yes, you can take burned out plugs and tap them for turbos. Standard plugs will lose you 1500 or so RPM.

Here's how its done.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_4533758/mpage_1/key_/tm.htm


Mecoa makes a $3.99 head that accepts a standard long plug. I asked if they would consider making a Turbo plug head, no response.

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KB1DTB
AMA11123

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       Post #: 305

RE: Norvel Engine FAQ - 8/29/2008 9:20:20 PM   
Plastic Little Man



Posts: 17
Joined: 8/23/2008
From: Roswell, GA, USA
Status: offline 		I keep on hearing about how the 0.74 has so much more power than the .061 and has the best power/weight ratio but the RCU product guide lists the Big Mig .074 as .380HP at 2.65oz (.143HP/oz) and the Big Mig .061 as .310HP at 1.83oz (.169HP/oz) am I missing something here?

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       Post #: 306

RE: Norvel Engine FAQ - 8/30/2008 12:59:47 AM   
AndyW


 

Posts: 1918
Joined: 1/17/2003
From: Timmins, ON, CANADA
Status: offline 		Pictured is a 1/2A sized Tsunami. Forget the span and weight, exactly, but on the intended Big Mig .061, it was a good flyer but was not pattern ship calibre. So I installed the .074 and with a 7 X 3 black Tornado prop, now I could do just about anything the big pattern ships could do, including a knife edge, (sloppy) loop.

When working with engines in the real world with real props, sometimes the figures don't add up. And that can be a good thing.


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Andy Woitowicz

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       Post #: 307

RE: Norvel Engine FAQ - 9/1/2008 2:11:28 AM   
N1EDM



Posts: 1905
Joined: 7/19/2002
From: Brockton, MA, USA
Status: offline 		Andy, what are you using for fuel in your .074? Mine ran like a dog, and I just gave up on it... Only using 10% nitro though.

Bob


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       Post #: 308

RE: Norvel Engine FAQ - 9/1/2008 5:12:25 AM   
AndyW


 

Posts: 1918
Joined: 1/17/2003
From: Timmins, ON, CANADA
Status: offline 		Even on only 10% it should have been a good engine. I use 25% Cool Power and Omega. Never had a problem with either fuel, each giving good power with excellent throttle response. Of course, any engine can misbehave if the plug is worn out, the fuel is contaminated or is just the wrong brand. Some work better than others, the two mentioned work so well, I never had much reason to try any other.



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Andy Woitowicz

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       Post #: 309

RE: Norvel Engine FAQ - 9/1/2008 1:04:16 PM   
N1EDM



Posts: 1905
Joined: 7/19/2002
From: Brockton, MA, USA
Status: offline 		Thanks, I might give it another try....

Bob

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       Post #: 310

RE: Norvel Engine FAQ - 9/1/2008 4:54:15 PM   
AndyW


 

Posts: 1918
Joined: 1/17/2003
From: Timmins, ON, CANADA
Status: offline 		Bob,

With fresh fuel,, CP 25% and a new plug, try this. As you dial in the high end, note where it just peaks. Then, dial it in a bit more. You'll see that you can get a quarter turn or so with not much change. In other words, it doesn't over lean. This characteristic is unique to some engines, including the Norvel .074.

This is what you use to dial in that perfect idle mixture allowing a forever idle with instant throttle response.

When you find that just lean setting, idle down and observe. Likely, the idle will be rich and it may run but transition to high will be rough. Throttle back and dial in the main needle a hair. Throttle down and see how good your transition is. You should observe an improvement. Keep doing this until the engine will idle steadily for as long as you want and still allow for instant response.

I refine this technique in the air. This is due to unique placement of the fuel tank in various installations and the like.

Here, http://video.google.ca/videosearch?q=MiniSport_with_dieselized_Norvel_.074_on_skis&hl=en&sitesearch=# you can see the same engine, converted to diesel, flying in the winter.

The remarkable thing is that my first flight was with summer time settings on the compression AND the needle. And yet the engine responded rather well. Only some additional tweaking, in the air, got it running virtually perfectly. Quite a feat considering diesel operation in the winter.



< Message edited by AndyW -- 9/1/2008 5:00:24 PM >

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Andy Woitowicz

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RE: Norvel Engine FAQ - 9/2/2008 2:59:54 AM   
Plastic Little Man



Posts: 17
Joined: 8/23/2008
From: Roswell, GA, USA
Status: offline 		I just bought a Big Mig R/C .061 of the Bay that was listed as "never run" and I haven't had a chance to take apart and start it up. There is a light brown film in some of the nooks and crannies, and the prop turns freely springing a 1/4 turn after TDC. Is it possible that this guy wasn't lying or mistaken? It seems like someone decided to take it for a "quick spin" just to hear it run and then wiped it off and put it back in the box. Should I just go though the break in ritual like normal, and how likely is it that the engine is ruined if someone did do that? Like, should I be asking for my money back and hope to find another one?

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RE: Norvel Engine FAQ - 9/2/2008 3:04:07 AM   
Plastic Little Man



Posts: 17
Joined: 8/23/2008
From: Roswell, GA, USA
Status: offline 		Oh... and andy you were right, I wasn't taking the weight of the plane into consideration. The total weight to HP ratio of the .061 would only be higher of the plane sans engine weighed less than 1.74 oz according to my algebra.

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RE: Norvel Engine FAQ - 9/6/2008 1:52:59 AM   
Entropy



Posts: 115
Joined: 1/28/2004
From: West Valley City, UT, USA
Status: offline 		I have a Revlite .061 R/C and may be buying a C/L. What parts are needed to convert a C/L carb to R/C? I know it's been asked before but I didn't see an answer. Also it's been recommended that I don't tear the engine down to clean it. I've seen some pictures earlier in the thread that weren't too encouraging. A couple people have said since it's a brand new engine just take the backplate off and flush it with fuel. Any thoughts there?

(in reply to Plastic Little Man)