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RE: Norvel Engine FAQ - 7/21/2006 4:42:40 PM   
PlaneKrazee



Posts: 3535
Joined: 5/15/2002
From: Westerly, RI, USA
Status: offline 		My new .074 running on 5% idles fine and it still has all the head shims in it. It will idle for at least two minutes with clean excelleration, it could probably do more. It has about 40 minutes of run time on it now.

Got the last one @ Boyz Toyz in NY.

I forgot to mention the plug in mine is leaking around the stem. Has anyone else had this happen?

< Message edited by Skypilot_one -- 7/21/2006 4:43:37 PM >

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RE: Norvel Engine FAQ - 7/27/2006 1:49:12 AM   
psullivan


 

Posts: 163
Joined: 11/22/2005
From: ,, TX, USA
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I just got my Galbreath head/Nelson plug combo for my Norvel .061. Won't run worth a crap. It wont turn the 6x3 prob more than like 8k rpm... I dont know where the needle is supposed to be or anything. There is also a leak were the galbreath head screws in. I have the needle about 3 or so turns out running 25% nitro, if I lean it it dies, if I richen it it dies. Any input whatsoever would be great.

Justin

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RE: Norvel Engine FAQ - 7/27/2006 2:36:17 AM   
PlaneKrazee



Posts: 3535
Joined: 5/15/2002
From: Westerly, RI, USA
Status: offline 		I got my Galbreath head and nelson plug but haven't run it yet. Maybe I should give it a try. I was running a Cox 5X3.

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RE: Norvel Engine FAQ - 7/27/2006 3:08:45 AM   
AndyW


 

Posts: 1897
Joined: 1/17/2003
From: Timmins, ON, CANADA
Status: offline 		Sounds like you have a leak. Will the prop snap over when flipped when the engine is cold?

Apply a little oil and flip slowly and see if there are any bubbles. Also do this with the engine running.

< Message edited by 1705493-AndyW -- 7/27/2006 3:12:56 AM >

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Andy Woitowicz

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RE: Norvel Engine FAQ - 7/27/2006 4:52:55 PM   
psullivan


 

Posts: 163
Joined: 11/22/2005
From: ,, TX, USA
Status: offline 		Yea, I cranked down on the top a little bit and now I can run top end till it runs outa gas, wont go lower than half throttle still. What is that little screw, under the needle, that has a spring under it for? I'm going to raise the tank up to help it feed

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RE: Norvel Engine FAQ - 7/27/2006 5:47:28 PM   
PlaneKrazee



Posts: 3535
Joined: 5/15/2002
From: Westerly, RI, USA
Status: offline 		P,

Did you run the engine before with the regular head? If so, how did it run?

I have to set up my test stand to run the .061 again. No time until late next week.

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RE: Norvel Engine FAQ - 7/27/2006 5:50:21 PM   
AndyW


 

Posts: 1897
Joined: 1/17/2003
From: Timmins, ON, CANADA
Status: offline 		That screw with spring is a throttle stop screw, useful on the bench but not in your airplane. Take it out completely as it MAY be preventing the barrel from closing far enough to give you a low idle. If the engine won't idle below 8K no matter what, the carb is at fault and that requires some surgery. But if it's an AME, those are notorious for less than the best throttling. You have a better chance if its the Big Mig.

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RE: Norvel Engine FAQ - 7/27/2006 6:05:06 PM   
psullivan


 

Posts: 163
Joined: 11/22/2005
From: ,, TX, USA
Status: offline 		What are some differences to look for as I'm not sure but I think it is a Big Mig. O thats what that screw is! I tightened down on it so it wouldn't fall out ....you say unscrew it completely?

Justin

And no, I never ran it with the original plug as it was bad when I bought the engine and thats why I bought the nelson ones.

How am I suposed to work on the throttle addjustments when i cant see anything? I dont like that screen on there...

< Message edited by psullivan -- 7/27/2006 6:12:37 PM >

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       Post #: 158

RE: Norvel Engine FAQ - 7/27/2006 6:32:27 PM   
AndyW


 

Posts: 1897
Joined: 1/17/2003
From: Timmins, ON, CANADA
Status: offline 		Justin,

Most people take the screen out for the reason you mention, which I forgot to do.

If you look at the head of the screw, you'll see that it's off center. In varying positions, the eccentric works to limit the barrel's closure.

To identify a Big Mig, look into the cylinder and see how many ports there are. Including the EXHAUST port, if there are six of them in total, then you have a Big Mig. I'm obsessed with perfect throttling, some find both engines to throttle just fine for them. Depends on your plane and your flying style. Minimum, in my opinion is that this engine should idle at 5-6K with clean transition no matter how long it's left at idle.

On tank position, as you have muffler pressure, the top of the tank should be level with the fuel nipple. Otherwise fuel can sump into your engine at idle or when the engine is stopped.

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RE: Norvel Engine FAQ - 7/27/2006 8:05:45 PM   
psullivan


 

Posts: 163
Joined: 11/22/2005
From: ,, TX, USA
Status: offline 		I took the screen off just to help see what I'm doing. It still sounds good at full throttle but go any less than half it wont run at all, and if it runs for a few secounds it wont smoothly go back up. I can go 3/4 and full back and forth, no idle whatsoever. Cant find my RPM tach. anywere so I cant give you any real readings I'll go look for it now...

Justin

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RE: Norvel Engine FAQ - 7/27/2006 8:23:52 PM   
AndyW


 

Posts: 1897
Joined: 1/17/2003
From: Timmins, ON, CANADA
Status: offline 		Justin,

Your tank location can affect throttling. Be sure the top of the tank is level with the fuel nipple. A bit above won't hurt. You may simply have an engine/throttle combination that goes grossly rich at idle. This can be due to a ganging of tolerances within that particular engine and that particular throttle. The fix is an adjustable airbleed. Plus, it may be one of the Norvels that were set up to not idle below 8K.

The other issue is the number of head gaskets. As you add or delete you adjust the compression ratio. The very early Norvels came out way overcompressed and required 5 or more gaskets. Later versions use only two or three, or one. What happens is that as you increase compression, this creates the requirement to back out or richen the needle valve. With no way to adjust the idle, your low speed now goes rich on you and the engine won't idle. As you add gaskets and decrease the compression, you need to lean out the needle and that, in turn, leans out your low end and you now have an engine that will at least hold an idle for a while. The final, fine tuning would be to adjust the airbleed.

From the sound of it, in retrospect, you may have too many gaskets for your engine causing you to lean the needle for the top end and that setting may now be way too lean for the bottom end. Does it quit abruptly or does it die slobbering fuel out the muffler? And it may not be the fault of Norvel, in that you've installed a Nelson plug and this may have created a different compression environment in your engine from stock.

Let us know the fuel, nitro, prop and tach numbers and maybe we can sort it out for you.

< Message edited by 1705493-AndyW -- 7/27/2006 8:45:31 PM >

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RE: Norvel Engine FAQ - 7/27/2006 8:47:40 PM   
psullivan


 

Posts: 163
Joined: 11/22/2005
From: ,, TX, USA
Status: offline 		I'll just give you whatever I can think of.

2 rings in head
25%nitro
6x3 master airscrew

Ill try and get some rpm readings now.

Heres the best I can come up with with my crappy Tower tach: Max:15k dies around 9-10k

does that help any?

also: are these things always that much troubble? My .51 super tiger was adjusted once, out of the box, the only thing since the last 8 gallons was one plug every gallon.

I finaly got everything together over the last month, servos, built my plane, lalalal, more
#$%^ and now the engine is driving me crazy. I wonder if it will ever fly

< Message edited by psullivan -- 7/27/2006 8:55:01 PM >

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RE: Norvel Engine FAQ - 7/27/2006 10:58:06 PM   
AndyW


 

Posts: 1897
Joined: 1/17/2003
From: Timmins, ON, CANADA
Status: offline 		Justin,

Those are not good numbers. Something is quite wrong, it seems. The only trouble Norvels USED to give was the extremely tight fit at TDC when new. As the latest versions from Lite Machines show, this has been changed to a light fit. As a recent experience with a new, stock LM engine showed, this gave me nearly 20K on 25% fuel and a Grish 6 X 3 which is comparable to your MA prop.

How did you break this engine in? Was your engine extremely tight when new? Norvel's instructions say to oil the cylinder up, let that sit overnight and then flip the prop through a hundred times. I personally don't approve but lots of guys do this and are OK with it.

The worst thing you could do would be to run the engine rich for an extended period of time to break it in. If it's worn out, this would account for the low power.

I will say that Sig's service and warranty with Norvel engines is one of the best in the business. If you feel that yours is faulty, send it to Sig c/o Justin VanDee and he'll fix you right up. Tell him I sent you.






< Message edited by 1705493-AndyW -- 7/27/2006 11:10:20 PM >

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RE: Norvel Engine FAQ - 7/28/2006 1:23:07 AM   
psullivan


 

Posts: 163
Joined: 11/22/2005
From: ,, TX, USA
Status: offline 		The problem is that I didt buy it new....

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RE: Norvel Engine FAQ - 7/28/2006 2:31:26 AM