This is a thread for discussing and providing links or writeups to all that is needed to understand and care for the Norvel engines. Specificallly the 049's, 061's and 074's. I welcome the old hands to provide links or place older quoted material here that you think will help out or write new matieral. For the folks asking questions this is the place if it's specifically engine related. If you don't find it here then it's about time someone asked.
I would like to see material related to....
Engine type identification. Pictures are needed.
Care and feeding. How to disassemble, clean, care for and reassemble the engines along with tricks.
Blueprinting or hopping up the engines.
Starting and running hints, propeller options, fuel choice, etc. In particular to breaking in which is so important for the Norvels.
A guide to what sort of model size and performance expectations the various sizes can be used with. From 6oz racers to 30oz powered gliders.
Anything else Norvel related that I missed.
As much as possible I encourage you guys to remember the fine stuff you wrote before and repost it either under your own name if you wrote it in the first place or as a quote attributed to the proper author. There's tons of fine stuff from the past that is often hard to find if you don't know the ideal search keywords to use. If and when you come across something then feel free to add it in and make this a great resource. I'd also welcome any new material and would ask that for some of the stuff that lots of pictures be taken to best illustrate the steps for those that have not worked much with the Cox products before.
Posts: 659
Joined: 6/2/2003 From: Lubbock,
TX, USA Status: offline
Here are some photos:
One question that comes up is, "What is the difference between a Big Mig and an AME?"
The difference is in the cylinder. Big Migs are timed milder and have 5 intake ports in the cylinder. AMEs have 3 ports, but those three are larger and are timed for higher RPM. The Big Mig will be more forgiving and may pull a bit more prop and the AME has the potential to make more power at a higher RPM.
The cylinder on the left in each photo is from a Big Mig. The right cylinder is from an AME.
Posts: 659
Joined: 6/2/2003 From: Lubbock,
TX, USA Status: offline
Another issue involves the different models of the Norvels (AMEs).
Here is a photo of the earliest AME (Zeus) I had (or the carcass of same I have stolen the needle assembly and head from this one). It had the aluminum / nickel plated cylinder, a oval, bath tub intake that was probably too large, and the case and crank was almost a 1/4" shorter than current AMEs.
The best running, strongest AME .049s I had for 1/2A CL Combat were built from these cases and cranks.
< Message edited by Larry Driskill -- 1/8/2006 11:10:36 PM >
Posts: 659
Joined: 6/2/2003 From: Lubbock,
TX, USA Status: offline
These photos show the lastest AME (RevLite black cylinder) along with the silver 'Zeus' AME. Note that the case on older engine, on the right, is shorter.
< Message edited by Larry Driskill -- 1/8/2006 11:11:56 PM >
Posts: 9218
Joined: 11/22/2003 From: arlington,
WA, USA Status: offline
Bruce, I would understand entirely if you want to keep this thread pure [and delete my comments in the process], but I would like to have someone walk me through, step by step on how to get $50 worth of fun out of an AME. I have managed to get $50 worth of fun, but it took $150 worth of AMEs to get there!
CP, this is the whole idea here. Ask away and let the folks respond and it'll now be kept for posterity. Only if we see repeats will I edit the thread.
Posts: 2317
Joined: 10/24/2002 From: Port Ewen,
NY, USA Status: offline
The first pic is of the AME Zeus. It has no muffler provisions, a regular plug, and an optional plastic intake restrictor to allow it to run with suction.
One confusion factor a few years ago was when Norvel switched plugs. The top one is the "Freedom" plug, currently used. The lower plug is its predecessor, which is a good performance plug. The freedom plug uses less power to lite it and will work OK on 1.2V. igniters. Note that the plugs use different heads to hold the plug in place. The new one will fit most boosters, the older one will not. Many had problems with whimpy boosters and thought it was an "engine" problem.
The older (pre Revlite) engines had the carb or venturi epoxied in place. The Revlite ones have them screwed in place, which allows one to switch between RC and CL/FF with the same engine, and replace the Carb or Venturi as necessary.
Posts: 258
Joined: 3/4/2003 From: China Spring, TX, USA Status: offline
I raced the Norvel engines at our local 1/2 races many years ago. I modified the .049's and then the .061's to run 4.5x4.5 props at 29,000 to 31,000 rpm. I was wondering what others have learned about them as to performance. We ran 60% nitro with Doug Gailbreth heads and Nelson glow plugs.
Posts: 4752
Joined: 4/28/2003 From: Brunswick,
GA, USA Status: offline
Well, I can tell a story about two of our friends. Flyswatter had an AME that wasn't turning up like it should and the case would get REALLY hot. He spoke to our own infamous Larry Driskill, and shipped him the engine. My grapevine understanding is that Larry chucked it up in his lathe and took some material out of the center of the crank using sandpaper. That bad boy turns UP now! Maybe since I've prodded their memories, one of 'em can give us details or correct me. I don't know how common this is, but it seems to me the same thing could be accomplished with a drill press if you are very, very, very careful?
ANYBody have any test records ,as to a prop size/rpm etc.I`m especially intrested in theBIG MIG 0.074" at the moment but the 0.049" + 0.061" would be nice to have in here too
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Dave B. ------ Corsair Brotherhood # 11------- I am a,#11,cause,,I`m 10% Better,than a perfect "10".
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Norvel Engine FAQ - 
