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RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY - 4/12/2006 8:26 PM   
Firefighter7


 

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From: Richmond, VA, USA
Status: offline 		Well I finally got her running. The only problem I have now is it rolls on its own when I set it on the ground. I know that the idle is to high. So just to clarify the idle screw is the one under the air filter right? The whole clock wise and counter clock wise is looking from the front of the car towards the back correct? And to lower the idle I turn the screw counter clock wise right? Also how much fuel is to much spitting out the muffler? How long should a tank of fuel last? Sorry for all the questions but now that I finally got it running I want it to run right.... Thanks for the tip on the Glow Plug Starter I didn't have it charged up completely. Once charged completely how many starts should it last? Thanks for any help.

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RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY - 4/12/2006 8:40 PM   
nitrosteve22



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Status: offline 		Not sure on the glow plug question as I dont have a rechargable yet but yes counter clockwise will lower the idle which is the screw directly under the air filter. A little bit of fuel spitting out is ok you just dont want it puddling up if the car is in one spot. I get around 7-8 minutes out of a tank... Not sure if thats great or what but thats what mine does with a little bit of fuel spitting out the exhaust.

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RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY - 4/13/2006 4:24 AM   
Firefighter7


 

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Status: offline 		OK call me stupid but......I cant find the 2 screws you all are talking about to adjust the tranny. I have a Tornado XP so if any one can post a picture of where the adjustment screws are on the XP I would appreicate it.

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RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY - 4/13/2006 6:59 AM   
nitrosteve22



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Status: offline 		I cant remember exactly but one of these is to hold it all together and one of them is to adjust shift points. Slowly screw in clockwise first (so you dont accidently loosen the wrong screw),if it wont turn then its the wrong screw. The one to ajdust shift points has a spring behind it to keep it in place so if you start a screwin and it moves but with a little resistance then thats your guy. Counter clockwise will shift sooner,clockwise is just the opposite.

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RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY - 4/13/2006 7:12 AM   
nitrosteve22



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From: kf, OR, USA
Status: offline 		Gotta say these little buggies are pretty tough... I was cruisin around in the grass in my back yard and got a good run but the brakes didnt stop me in time and I slammed front bumper first in to a cyclone fence gate post with enough speed and force that it pulled the exhaust pipe and rubber coupler right off the header! The pictures show the carnage,I'm still amazed it didnt brake anything aside from punching a small hole in the front bumper from hitting the front dif case so hard! Just loosened up a few screws along with bending the tip of the chassis so I can live with that. Hit hard to,really hard!

Finally after tearing the motor apart and gasket'ing the HSN sleeve,carb,back plate and pullstarter the motor seems a little more consistant and holds a tune a bit better. I tried the tunings found on the CEN website for there NX-18 and its a bit to rich,hard as hell to start and runs a little sluggish. Glow plug battery died along with my patience before I could get more than a tank and a half through it. It's close though,I had a blast with it earlier. Hopefully the weather wont be to bad tomorrow so I can finally finish tuning!... Stupid rain... Still blown away by how fast my little *under $200 bucks* RTR and how much crap it can take!

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RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY - 4/13/2006 9:38 AM   
blackdogafd



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Status: offline 		nice work nitrosteve!! its is funny how things didnt break with pix like that!!! thats kinda what happened to mine a few days ago. except i broke the steering arm and bent a frt dogbone


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RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY - 4/13/2006 5:41 PM   
J5IVE


 

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Status: offline 		Hi there...I have a 1/10 Himoto Syclone and was wondering where I could get aluminum parts for it. I'm very new to this but as much of you seem to already know parts can break easily (especially plastic at 40kms/hour) so I would like to upgrade certain things...like the front arms (me and buddy just had collision and his was destroyed...front brace on mine got bent...whew).

Any help would be appreciated...and sorry if there is already answers to this but this thread is like 11 pages.

Thanks,
J

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RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY - 4/13/2006 7:40 PM   
TopSpeedToys



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Status: offline 		Hi J5IVE,

I don't think the front arms are available in aluminum yet.
But we have other upgrades / Aluminum parts available.

Check it out...

http://www.topspeedtoys.com/Upgrade.html

Mark



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RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY - 4/14/2006 2:33 AM   
Chubbysdad


 

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Status: offline 		I think I will get hammered for saying this but honestly I think the Aluminum parts are a waste. I would rather the $5-$6 dollar part break when you crash, then have something else break that takes the impact instead. I am not here to start any arguments with other dealers, its just an opinion.


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RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY - 4/14/2006 2:44 AM   
Popper252



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Status: offline 		I'm for certain aluminum parts, Hubs, c hubs, steering arms, gears, should all be aluminum. A-arms on the other end I wouldn't consider. Simply because they attach to the chassis and i don't want to see that get banged up.

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RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY - 4/14/2006 2:46 AM   
Chubbysdad


 

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Status: offline 		Yes I agree with some of that also but I think the gears should be steel not aluminum. Too soft.

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RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY - 4/14/2006 2:50 AM   
Popper252



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Status: offline 		Yeah that's what i meant. I can't believe you didn't know i meant that. geez

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RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY - 4/14/2006 5:07 AM   
nitrosteve22



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Status: offline 		Ok,can somebody tell me if I'm getting close here? I took the LSN out till it was flush and have slowly leaned it in maybe 3/4 of a full turn (only 1/8 at a time of course) and the HSN is sitting somewhere between 2 1/2&3 turns out. It spits a little fuel at idle and has a healthy trail of smoke when gassed. Is a tiny bit sluggish in the low RPM's but winds up good,has a low somewhat smooth non eratic idle. But... It's also a total ***** to start hot or cold,my fingers/knuckles are sore as hell! When warming up from being cold it'll sit around 202F-214F and when raced a bit and then let sit to idle it'll back down to 215F give or take 5F degrees. When ran "mediumish" it'll stay around 250F but when raced it'll still go up to 270F-280F+ but not nearly as bad as the temp problems I used to have with this engine (it would run 280F-300F).

Maybe I'm not understanding something or what,but are those temps ok? I never used a temp gauge with my nitrohawk but I never had these problems reguardless of how I ran it but I was under the assumption that when tuned properly the smaller .15-.18's will run between 220F-250F but rarely go over... So what am I doing wrong here? If I richen it up anymore it refuses to start like it almost does now. If I lean it out the temps get worse and its still hard to start. It was maybe mid/high 60's while I was running the car.... The glow plug glows orange/red,the ignitor battery is brand new and the fuel (trinity monster %20) is super fresh so ****?!?

Any ideas? I just cant seem to get this right .

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RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY - 4/14/2006 5:16 AM   
ehroof


 

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Status: offline 		check this out, do what it says and watch the video, 2 1/2 out on high end, flush on low end to start then watch the video, it will explain how to tune, dont worry about the brand of car they are using, this shows how to tune a typical nitro engine.


http://www.dads-toy.com/tuning-part1.shtml then http://www.dads-toy.com/tuning-part2.shtml


sorry but this is easier then trying or keep typing this over and over

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RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY - 4/14/2006 6:15 AM   
nitrosteve22



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Status: offline 		Those sure are awesome,thanks a million! That'll help soooo much! I gotta bookmark those .

Thanks

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RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY - 4/14/2006 9:58 PM   
1500cc


 

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Status: offline 		I've busted the right steering arm & door mount twice, and the left ones once. Both were from running into people. You'd think people would be softer or something. I've been lucky and CA glue has held everything back together both times, although I don't jump it anymore. But I decided to make myself a bumper out of galvanized steel to take some of the shock away from front-end collisions. I bolted it to the same holes as the stock front bumper, using small bolts that should act like shear pins.



Fortunately, I've not yet tested it in a real world situation

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RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY - 4/14/2006 10:59 PM   
ehroof


 

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Status: offline 		cool bumper, looks like you wont have to worry about front end collisions!!!!!

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RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY - 4/14/2006 11:51 PM   
Popper252



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Status: offline 		So how much for one of those bad boys in black?

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RE: "OFFICIAL" Himoto / Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY - 4/15/2006 2:05 AM   
shadymarkny


 

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From: Maspeth, NY, USA
Status: offline 		Awesome man.. I really needed to know that info. My clutch springs broke, and I took the clutch out and sorta fixed the spings. I noticed its kinda lose.. but I didn't care, I put it back into the car and drove around for a day.. The clutch bell was so HOT that it melted the diff. gear set. Thats why I had to ordered a new sets.. Basically I found out that the clutch was engaging the bell the whole time and made it really hot. I was woundering why my car kept want to go foward even when I am holding on the break it was still going.. Damn so right now I am waiting for new clutch and new diff. gear sets to come..

< Message edited by shadymarkny -- 4/15/2006 2:09 AM >

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RE: "OFFICIAL" Himoto / Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY - 4/15/2006 2:22 AM   
Firefighter7


 

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Status: offline 		Ok guys I got my engine running, but the only part that I need some help on is.... When its running I have to hold down on the breaks or else it will just take off on me(even then it creeps forward a little bit). But if I lower the idle adjustment the engine wont stay running. So how do I keep it from rolling off on me while idleing and at the same time keep the engine running? Thanks for the help.........

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RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY - 4/15/2006 3:31 AM   
Popper252



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Status: offline 		Well it just sounds like you have to adjust the Throttle Trim on your remote control. Try turning that untill the tires stop spinning on you. Don't turn it too much or else the brakes will engage. All you have to do is find that happy spot in the middle. Let us know if that helps.

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RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY - 4/15/2006 4:54 AM   
ehroof


 

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Status: offline 		sounds like your low end needle is not set correctly, i would lean it an 1/8 turn at a time, run it and try to adjust the idle lower, you shouldnt use the trim to adjust the idle, you should leave the trim in the center (neutral) and lower the idle with the screw until it is low enough not to engage the clutch but high enough to run. when you use the brake you shouldnt lower the idle it should stay the same as it is in the neurtral position.

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RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY - 4/15/2006 9:40 AM   
Popper252



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Status: offline 		Hello, I've just got a question about servos. I was looking at the Futaba s3010 servo to replace my current steering servo. The original one that came with the car just doesn't seem to have enough juice to get quick precise turns out of it. Would I get any noticable benefit from going with the s3010 (90.2 oz-in torque) or the little bit weaker but half the price s3003 (56.9 oz-in torque) model? There's an even stronger s3305 model that has 123 oz-in at 6 volt but i think that may be a little overkill. I'm fairly happy with the throttle servo, it really doesn't have to do all that much so I don't really feel the need to upgrade that. I was also thinking with maybe just getting a whole new radio system. The Futaba 2PH looks like it would be good and that way I could upgrade my throttle servo aswell. Or I could get the 2 servo kit and sell one of them and get the stronger s3010. Oh the choices.

The price run down is as follows.
S3003 10.99
S3010 22.99
S3305 34.99
2PH w/ 1 s3003 servo 42.99

Keep in mind i'm a broke college kid
Thanks

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RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY - 4/15/2006 9:48 AM   
blackdogafd



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Status: offline 		hey popper, i bought the futaba 2ph radio system for my himoto syclone and it came with 2 s3003 servos adn everything else to change all the electronics and i'll tell you what it was the best thing i did for this thing.. as far as steering goes the 3003's are just fine. mine turns on a dime and has no problems what so ever, so check into it

here's the link to where i bought mine from..

http://cgi.ebay.com/FUTABA-2PH-AM-w-2-3003-servos-Futj14-FREE-SHIP_W0QQitemZ6049627592QQcategoryZ34063QQcmdZViewItem


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RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY - 4/15/2006 9:53 AM   
Popper252



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Status: offline 		Hey thanks for the link man, that'll save me from having to pay shipping charges.

Edit: I was actually looking through his store and he has the 3003/3010 setup for 60 dollars. I'm still a little torn between that. I love POWER!!! Wooo
This is where my irrational "gotta be a dude" mentality comes in. I'm not gonna buy anything tonight. I'll probably sleep on it for a while and see what I decide on.
Any other input would be appreciated.

< Message edited by Popper252 -- 4/15/2006 9:57 AM >

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