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RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY - 8/11/2006 9:51 PM   
lucasdon17


 

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From: Newmarket, NH, USA
Status: offline 		Well..i have successfully taken off the fly wheel. It was tough .

My aim is to take off the front bearing and replace. Now that i have taken off the flywheel..i am not sure how to take off the bearing. It does nt seem to slide off or easy to take off.

This is the first time ever i have taken these things apart. So pl bear with me guys !!

Do i need to take more things apart before i get to remove this bearing..?

Without taking too many parts out..cant i just use some seal around the bearing and put all the flywheel etc back ??

If any steps or snaps of procedures...will be of great help.

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RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY - 8/11/2006 10:25 PM   
jguitarsandcars


 

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Status: offline 		I don't know, I tore my entire engine down to seal it while I was at it anyway...And I couldn't get the bearing out without the risk of breaking it, so I just cleaned them in the crankcase and oiled them up...

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RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY - 8/12/2006 5:18 AM   
ThunderbirdJunkie



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Status: offline 		the way I usually remove engine bearings is to heat the engine in the oven, and stuff the crankshaft in through the front of the engine, put a little sideways pressure on it, and pull like a ****.

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RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY - 8/12/2006 7:42 AM   
nitro_racer_1


 

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Status: offline 		yeah the only way is to heat up the crank case cuz there pressed in

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RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY - 8/15/2006 5:22 AM   
lucasdon17


 

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Status: offline 		HI Guys
I have just not been able to take off the front bearing from the engine. I tried heating in the oven ..nothin worked. I knw for sure that there is a leak and it needs to be changed. Even if i get a new bearing , now i am not sure how to remove and change it.
More bad news is..the screws of the back plate dont seem to grip my screw driver too well. Its chipping out.

Pl help me out. I have taken all apart and now i am not sure how to get it fixed.

Any photos to help, any steps to get it done.

I really need some help here guys !!
Thank you

< Message edited by lucasdon17 -- 8/15/2006 6:24 AM >

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RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY - 8/15/2006 7:23 AM   
jguitarsandcars


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: lucasdon17

HI Guys
I have just not been able to take off the front bearing from the engine. I tried heating in the oven ..nothin worked. I knw for sure that there is a leak and it needs to be changed. Even if i get a new bearing , now i am not sure how to remove and change it.
More bad news is..the screws of the back plate dont seem to grip my screw driver too well. Its chipping out.

Pl help me out. I have taken all apart and now i am not sure how to get it fixed.

Any photos to help, any steps to get it done.

I really need some help here guys !!
Thank you


I had a hard time with that...I was trying to find all Socket head cap screws to replace all the screws on the car, but couldn't find the exact size I needed for the back plate (could have ordered online, but I thought the engine would be together before now)...I went down to the local ACE hardware and bought 8 (to have an extra set) of 2.5 by whatever the length is of slotted head cap screws...My reasoning for that was that I felt I could get more toque on a standard flat head that small than I could on a philips. I was also stripping them out trying to get them out and I just ended up grabbing them with a pair of pliers and just twisting by the outside of the head...came off easily, and since I was replacing them, I didn't care about chunking up the screws (just wanted to be careful with the aluminum back plate

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RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY - 8/16/2006 3:00 AM   
lucasdon17


 

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Status: offline 		HI jguitarsandcars , Hi All

Man ..i am goona rename my buggy after u .!! Thanks. I was able to get back plate off. But still the bearing is stuck. 300 degrees in the oven and the sucker is still sittin in there mocking at me !

I still did not get what u were saying abt the Ace hardware screw type that u managed to get. Pl do let me knw.

thanks again

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RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY - 8/16/2006 5:06 AM   
chubbysuncle


 

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Status: offline 		You need to find an arbor press. First get new bearings. Once you're sure they're the ones you can use a socket to drive them out or find someone with an arbor press to push the old out and the new in. Extra care MUST be used pressing the new ones in so they don't get damaged. Put it this way, the amount force to get them out is going to be the same amount of force to get them in. How bad are they? Is there alot of side to side play or are they just weeping some fuel? They're not 100% sealed bearings and some weepage is OK. I mean for $80 you can get a new Redcat engine from Clermont or for $120 a topend .18 that'll have some more power.

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RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY - 8/16/2006 5:23 AM   
jguitarsandcars


 

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Status: offline 		I forget, but I thought he had a Japanese Engine already...
OK...If you have a LHS, go there with the stripped backplate, pull start, and the Head screws, go to the LHS and match the length to the Du-Bro socket head cap screws (the traditional allen wrench type)..The back plate and pull start are 2.5MMx either 8 or 10mm long, the head uses 2.5mmx15mm long Du-Bro p/n 2119...If you don't have a LHS (I believe you can get these online at Tower Hobby), or if time is an issue, go to the local old school hardware store (ACE, True Value, etc...) NOT LOWE'S or HOME DEPOT, and try to match up these sizes...My local hardware store didn't have the allen head, but did have the traditional slotted ones (not philips head)...I prefer the allen head ones for torque and less likely to strip, but I believe this small that the slotted ones will still be better than the philips head....

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RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY - 8/16/2006 6:08 PM   
lucasdon17


 

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Status: offline 		Hello chubbysuncle
What i have now is a .18 engine which is giving me all these issues.
When i try to prime the engine closing the exhaust, it does not prime. I changed the fuel lines and yet nothin happened. Then i prime by putting in some fuel through the carb opening to prime and noticed the fuel dripping down.

I took the engine out and inserted the fuel tube through the carb and blew through it and noticed that there was leak in the front bearing near the inner ring . I guess this is what was causing all the issue.

HOw much leak is is ok.?? Is this why i am not able to prime the engine the usual way.? Also..i am having a tough time keeping the engine running.

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RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY - 8/17/2006 3:38 AM   
chubbysuncle


 

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Status: offline 		Did you check the fuel tank for leaks? I was having the same problem with the buggy. I pulled the pressure line off the exhaust and blew in it gently to prime the carb. My ear was right next to the fill cap and I could here air blowing right out around it. O ring looked fine. The .18 on the Volcano weeps around the front bearings but it doesn't seem to affect the engine running. The Volcano started getting harder to prime and I checked all the exhaust connections and did the blow in the line test and THAT tank is leaking aroud the fill! I'd check all the other stuff before accusing those bearings. After you get it started does it run well? Or does it start to run hot and lean out and stall? I know that with 2 strokes leaking crank seals will cause bad performance and hard starting( if you can get it to run at all) because the engine leans out too much. These little nitros have no reed valves and crank seals to speak of, The pullstarter shaft is just in a bronze oilite bearing. I really don't think a leak at the front bearings will cause loss of exhaust pressure. You've got a leak in the exhaust or the fuel tank/ lines.

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RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY - 8/17/2006 4:30 AM   
jguitarsandcars


 

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Status: offline 		Lucas, did you try Sealing the engine with the RTV when you took it apart?

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RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY - 8/17/2006 4:37 AM   
jguitarsandcars


 

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Status: offline 		http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_4562468/tm.htm

Lucas Check this out...I found it tonight on the engine thread...A guy asked about leaking front bearings...
Josh

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RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY - 8/17/2006 6:53 AM   
lucasdon17


 

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Status: offline 		Hi
Its tough to start the engine. I have to stroke it nearly 25 odd times to get it up and when i throttle is it up , it dies . I guess its just leaning out. There is no way i can get the car to run fast..i can just spin it in a snails pace...Minis will beat me !!

I am yet to seal the engine. I have got this Permatex copper which i think shuld do the job. But my big issue is the leak. I will check again for any leak near the tank.

jguitarsandcars thanks for the link.

Thanks guys.

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RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY - 8/17/2006 6:12 PM   
jguitarsandcars


 

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Status: offline 		No problem Bro...

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RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY - 8/18/2006 3:37 AM   
lucasdon17


 

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Status: offline 		Hi Chubbysuncle Hi All

I can hear the air hiss out near the top of the tank when i blow through the fuel line that goes to the exhaust, closing the other fuel line.

Is this purely due to the O ring or just that the tank has be replaced. I am goin to seal the engine and try it out again.

thanks


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RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY - 8/18/2006 4:15 AM   
Chubbysdad


 

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Status: offline 		ahhh same thing happened to chubbysuncle. The oring was bad. He never had luck finding another oring and replaced the tank.

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RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY - 8/18/2006 4:48 AM   
chubbysuncle


 

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quote:

I can hear the air hiss out near the top of the tank when i blow through the fuel line that goes to the exhaust, closing the other fuel line.

Is this purely due to the O ring or just that the tank has be replaced. I am goin to seal the engine and try it out again.


I just got the new fuel tank today and put it on. I ripped the old one apart and I believe I found the source of the leak. It may not be the O ring. If you remove the tank lid and remove the screw holding the Oring there's a plastic disc that comes out. The O ring is actually on this piece. The screw goes into the center of the lid where the exhaust pressure line connects. ANYWAY... there is no gasket or seal between the plastic disc and the tank flip lid. I tried a couple of things to seal that area but I think some rtv silicone might do the trick. I put a small bead around and reassembled the center disc. You can't tighten the center screw alot cause it just strips. The new tank also leaked alittle and I snugged the center screw and it sealed. I tried a thin oring to seal the old one at first but you can't tighten the screw enough to compress the Oring. I'll let you know how the repair works this weekend. I'm letting it cure good for a day before I put the lid back on the tank. I'll put it in the buggy and see how she goes!

< Message edited by chubbysuncle -- 8/18/2006 4:50 AM >

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RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY - 8/18/2006 5:17 AM   
lucasdon17


 

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Status: offline 		Great.
WIll have an eye for ur reply.

thanks again

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RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY - 8/18/2006 8:17 AM   
nitro_racer_1


 

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Status: offline 		hey all, got some new jato wheels on my buggy
check it out;

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RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY - 8/20/2006 3:54 AM   
nitro_racer_1


 

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Status: offline 		hey i was looking on redcat's site and i saw the new 'tornado bb" which has upper and lower suspention arms, and i was wondering what all i would have to do to put thoes aluminum upper arms on my buggy, i know that i would have to go back to plastic gear boxes which i dont really want to do, but what else would i need ton replace? turining knukles? what all would i need?

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RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY - 8/20/2006 5:30 AM   
ehroof


 

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Status: offline 		Nitroracer, could you put the body on the buggy and take a picture, were the jato rims a direct bolt on or did you have to make some adjustments?? looks excellent.

thanks bro,

Eddie

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RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY - 8/20/2006 6:30 AM   
nitro_racer_1


 

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Status: offline 		heres the pics u wanted, yup they are a direct fit, the body sits a little crooked but im getting a new body with some Up-Grade RC clown graphics it will look awesome i think

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RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY - 8/20/2006 5:18 PM   
chubbysuncle


 

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quote:

I just got the new fuel tank today and put it on. I ripped the old one apart and I believe I found the source of the leak. It may not be the O ring. If you remove the tank lid and remove the screw holding the Oring there's a plastic disc that comes out. The O ring is actually on this piece. The screw goes into the center of the lid where the exhaust pressure line connects. ANYWAY... there is no gasket or seal between the plastic disc and the tank flip lid. I tried a couple of things to seal that area but I think some rtv silicone might do the trick. I put a small bead around and reassembled the center disc. You can't tighten the center screw alot cause it just strips. The new tank also leaked alittle and I snugged the center screw and it sealed. I tried a thin oring to seal the old one at first but you can't tighten the screw enough to compress the Oring. I'll let you know how the repair works this weekend. I'm letting it cure good for a day before I put the lid back on the tank. I'll put it in the buggy and see how she goes!

< Message edited by chubbysuncle -- 8/17/2006 1:50:43 PM >

Well it seems to be working. The thin bead of silicone under the plastic o ring holder on the fuel cap. I've got a nice tight seal and the buggy primed up in 3 pulls. Basically just remove the center screw and the oring holder. Seal between the lid and o ring holder, both hard plastic, just make sure not to seal up the slots in the center that let the exhaust pressure in.

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RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY - 8/24/2006 1:29 AM   
lucasdon17


 

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Status: offline 		Hi

I have sealed the fuel tank and looks to work as far as the priming the engine goes.

I have a new issues now. After i put back the clutch bell i see 2 washers in my tool box. I am not sure where these have to go. Can anyone tell me the order in which to put back the bell, clutch , bearing, flywheel etc.

ALso, i tried to fire up the the engine, it did start, but looks like the throttle is not responding. I have connected the throttle correctly and i can see it move.

What could be wrong here.

thank you

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