daven
Posts: 6891
Joined: 12/7/2001
From: Andover,
MN, USA
Status: offline
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1) Do you recommend fiberglassing the wing's center section?
It really depends on what else you did to the wing. I'm not sure what you are using. When I used foam wings from Bill Vargas, he had quite a bit of Carbon in there, and I only needed to put down one layer of 2oz on the bottom of the wing in a triangle pattern, about 8" at the TE and about 16" at the LE and I never had any problems. Also, after my wing was built, I glassed top and bottom with 3/4 oz and primed and painted which adds considerable strength over plastic covering.
2) And the tail?
My tails were all glassed / primed in a vacumn bag with the fiberglass or kevlar hinges in place. I believe I did a thread on my process somewhere here on RCU a couple years ago.
3) Do you prefer thin LE on the stabs?
I've done them both ways. Some with a slightly rounded LE, and some with a sharp LE. I never noticed a difference myself, but the current "popular" method is slightly rounded, rather than sharp.
4) I am copying the elevator and aileron size from my slingshot, any specific on this surfaces size?
My ailerons were 4-5" out from the Center of the wing, 1 1/4" in from the TE and 11" long. For 428 speeds I would use a little more than an 1/8" throw on low rates, and about 3/16" on high rates for landing.
My elevators are about 2" out from the center of the V, 1 1/4" in from the TE and 6" long. For 428 speeds I would use the same throw as the ailerons above.
5) Any recomendations regarding wing tips. They will be balsa
Because I went with a narrower (high aspect) wing with a chord of 9 3/4", it was neccessary to use a full span 52" wing. Since Bills wings weren't quite that long, I had a sacrificial wing that I would chop about 5" off and glue on to one end of his wing (left side). After that was blended in, I would cut the tips off with my table saw at a 45 degree angle, leaving the wing at exactly 52" (depending on the exact chord length, as they could vary by a 1/16" either way). This worked fine for me, but I then built a plug and had some wing tip molds made and used those for some time. A Minneapolis local has the molds, and would probably sell the tips, but they were relatively expensive.
6) Can you send me your recommended CG, throws and expo?
I normally will test fly it if the CG falls between 2 7/8" and 3" from the LE. Flying with anything more forward than 2 7/8" will give you very sluggish elevator response, and anything further back than 3" will give you very responsive elevator response. The recommended throws are listed above in #4, as to rudder, start with about 3/16" right and 1/8" left and adjust from there untill full right rudder gives you a straight takeoff. I don't use expo normally on quickees, but if you want, start with about 15% (positive or negative depending on your radio) and adjust from there.
7) How much rudder and aileron do you use for take off?
Low rates, as mentioned above. Full rudder, and full elevator, you shouldn't need any aileron. The plane will come off the ground nice and slow, it will not bounce into the air.
Good luck, and let me know if you have any further questions.
_____________________________
Dave Norman
klasskote.com
supertrc.com
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All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> Pylon Universe - RC Pylon Racing >> Q-500 Racing >> RE: Seeker Kits 
RE: Seeker Kits - 
It looks good.
