RE: Global AT-6 mods for pylon racing?  
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RE: Global AT-6 mods for pylon racing? - 1/26/2007 2:53:57 AM   
vicman



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RE: Global AT-6 mods for pylon racing? - 2/7/2007 5:33:14 AM   
PylonDave



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Is any one useing the stock motor mount that comes with the kit??
Is the bolt pattern for the la 25 the same as the pattern for the fp 25???

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RE: Global AT-6 mods for pylon racing? - 2/7/2007 5:46:07 PM   
Sport_Pilot



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1. Yes, with a Magnum .30 four stroke no less.

2. Don't know. But you might be able to find your answer on the OS website.

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RE: Global AT-6 mods for pylon racing? - 3/2/2007 3:08:07 AM   
racer504



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We've raced these here in southern Indiana for the last few years and I have built over 30 of them from kits and from scratch. Mine always balanced 5" behind the firewall. The best thing you can do to these is keep the weight under 2 1/2 pounds. At that weight or less they can be made to fly well. You get one of these up around 3 pounds or more and you're gonna hate it. Also, DO NOT build washout in to the wing! Build the panels flat (without the shims the instructions call for). With the washout in them they tend to drop the nose in corners. On the ARF's you definately need to reinforce the wing joint with fiberglass tape. I have seen them fold the wing (more than once). I also never use the stick pushrods. I replace those with nyrods and support them in at least 2 places up thru the fuse. For cowlings I have a friend who molds them from styrene plastic. You have to reinforce them with glass. They last a season or two (no crashes) and generaly start to stress crack during a season. On the up side he was selling them to me for $3 each so I figured I could just toss them after a while. They were copied after tho old pop bottle bottoms. Slightly better looking than the rubbermaid bowls (#7 bowl) and a little more aerodynamic. We raced on a 2 pole course. Everyone outside the course. 400' between poles. Most of us used Norvel Big Mig .25's. The source for those dried up so now their talking about using some ball bearing .25's. We'll see how that goes. Mike


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RE: Global AT-6 mods for pylon racing? - 3/2/2007 8:54:02 PM   
HighPlains


 

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quote:

Mine always balanced 5" behind the firewall.

Sport, have you tried the 3 1/2" balance point yet? Because Racer504's 5" measurement agrees with the plans that call out 2 1/4" from the leading edge that I used and suggested as a starting point.

Mine was very sensitive to rudder input on take-off, as too much these like to snap.

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RE: Global AT-6 mods for pylon racing? - 3/5/2007 4:00:40 PM   
Sport_Pilot



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quote:

ORIGINAL: HighPlains

quote:

Mine always balanced 5" behind the firewall.

Sport, have you tried the 3 1/2" balance point yet? Because Racer504's 5" measurement agrees with the plans that call out 2 1/4" from the leading edge that I used and suggested as a starting point.

Mine was very sensitive to rudder input on take-off, as too much these like to snap.



No, I was almost through with it when I had to get busy with the kids, car, and now an upcoming trip to Ireland. But, there are posts on another older thread in which others have moved it back behind 3". 3 1/4" is about the scaled distance used on the larger Hanger 9 version. If you go through the steps necessary to locate the centroid then 3 1/4" is less than 1/3 the average chord. I am not racing, but do want it to be somewhat aerobatic. Yes, I know it has flat bottom wings. As for as rudder sensitivity and snapping, isn't that what the washout is for? I noticed the rudder control throw was less than I expected.

Now do I need to fiberglass the wing joint? I heard no complaints before and would think a good glue joint would be sufficient. But then I am not racing.

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RE: Global AT-6 mods for pylon racing? - 3/6/2007 4:59:41 AM   
racer504



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The wing joint on the ARF is nothing more than a butt joint. It has no spar joiner other than a couple small dowell rods. Even a couple hard landings will break it loose.


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RE: Global AT-6 mods for pylon racing? - 4/11/2007 11:25:17 AM   
Zack999


 

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ok lett me chime in on this

first things first
when I put the wing to gether I glass the bottom only. this helps keep weight down and your not going to be doing any negitve g's high enought to break the stock joint.

after that I lay a couple of carbon stips over the landing gear wires insted of scewing them in.

I install two servos in the wing and solder a y into them

ta da the wing is done {if your going with stock monocote/colors}

in the fuse I use carbon push rods and cut off the cowl mount's{best just to screw directly into the fuse.

and thats all I do

some other people will sand trailing edges super sharp and glue the horns into the alerons and stabl so you dont have the back plate hanging out. but I don't think that that is what wins and loses races becuse if the other guy s turning a foot closer to the pylon consistantly over the entire race you lost a good twenty feet that you have to make up just hopeing your faster on the strates

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RE: Global AT-6 mods for pylon racing? - 7/23/2007 5:04:39 AM   
Sport_Pilot



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Finally maidened my T-6 today. Man that was a handfull. Really drops in the turns so it is still nose heavy even though I have it balanced about an inch behind the factory recommendation. Had a problem with a stuch low speed idle needle but it would idle at 2900 so I flew it. Even with a Magnum .30 four stroke it is a fast plane. Of course just when I tried to see how slow I could fly it the engine quit. So I made what I thought was a hot landing, after all I hadn't flown it slow yet. A 9 knot wind which was mostly a cross wind at the time (not when I took off) pushed it off the runway. Still it was nose up before it touched down and flipped in the grass. Makes good rolls and loops, flys fast, and a bit touchy in the wind. Thats about all I know right now. I didn't do the wing reinforcement, seems like a good glue joint shoud be enough. The spars mate right up to each other and I coated the ribs with Pica glue. Then I put tape on the bottom of the wing to keep the glue from dripping out. When dried I added glue to the bottom so that there was a nice bead at the joint. Seemed to hold up to flight and a nose over flip on landing. The landing gear did wollow out the hole in the wing block so I guess I will pot the hole with epoxy and redrill it. This was probably the most exciting maiden I have had, due to the small fast plane and windy day.

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RE: Global AT-6 mods for pylon racing? - 7/23/2007 12:50:08 PM   
vicman



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I put mine up for the first time this week too. Mine is from kit and sporting the TT .25 and built with the sole porpose of racing. It flew perfect. Jumped into the air tracked straight and true with no tendancy to snap at all. Landing is a chore to make it look good. I haven't had a pretty one yet. I guess that means more practice.

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RE: Global AT-6 mods for pylon racing? - 7/28/2007 8:18:01 PM   
Sport_Pilot



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The fast landing on grass has caused the gear to wobble out the hole in the landing gear anchor block. I am thinking of drilling out the hole to 1/4" and gluing a 1/4" dowel to that. Since this is an ARF I do not know how big the gear block is. Is there enough meat in the gear block to do this?

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RE: Global AT-6 mods for pylon racing? - 8/6/2007 2:42:39 AM   
racer504



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Yea, there should be enough wood in there. It's about 3/8" by 5/8" if memory serves me correct. If it's an ARF the blocks are soft. You'll be repairing them frequently. You might want to check the lg block to make sure it didn't split lengthwise. Also, I always bend the landing gear forward at least 1". We fly off grass and they land pretty good without flipping over that way. Here's a couple pics showing the lg. The last one is just cause I always thought it was neat colors. Mike


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< Message edited by racer504 -- 8/6/2007 10:04:55 PM >



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RE: Global AT-6 mods for pylon racing? - 8/8/2007 5:06:16 AM   
Sport_Pilot



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Thanks, just got the engine part back. I may work on it and fly this weekend.

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RE: Global AT-6 mods for pylon racing? - 8/8/2007 7:04:35 PM   
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