iflyfisher
Posts: 74
Joined: 6/22/2006
From: Northville,
MI, USA
Status: offline
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Charles. Thanks for the compliments. On the fuel dot issue. I am also running three lines from the tank. The clunk line goes to the carb, a fill line setup like yours going to a fuel dot, but my vent line has a T with one line going to the muffler and the other going to another fuel dot. When I fill, I put a small catch bottle like Animal mentioned on the vent fuel dot line, attach my pump to the fill line, and pinch the vent line down by the exhaust. If the throttle slide is completely closed, the tank will fill and overflow into my catch bottle. I am not clear on how you get fuel coming out of your exhaust the first few turns when your vent line should be at the top of the tank. I don't see how fuel can get up to the vent line unless you have some of your lines crossed up. I guess you could also have fuel in your vent line left over from the last time you drained the tank. Then when you fill, the air pressure in the tank from fuel going in pushes this fuel in your line out to the muffler. Hmmm.
I have a fuel dot on my Aeromaster on a two line system. There I have a T in the line to the carb. I ensure the carb is closed or pinch the line at the carb end with forceps when filling. This has worked great. My extra fuel dot ended up on the Ultimate plumbing as I installed a one way check valve in the exhaust line. Whatever you do, don't add a one way valve. I realized I was overpressurizing the tank so much the carb couldn't manage the fuel flow. Once I pulled the one way check valve, I really didn't need the fuel dot to release the pressure in the tank while filling, but as it was already there, I just kept it.
Animal, on the soldering, be careful with that technique as you could end up with a cold solder joint as the cable isn't hot when you dip it in the coupler filled with solder. I always put the cable or rod in the coupler and heat both at the same time. Solder then wicks in, and I will let it wick in until the coupler is full. I think this type of a solder joint is less likely to fail.
Plasticjoe, nice bipe! How did Snoopy fair the mishap?
Ken
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All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> Kit Building >> RE: Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 build 
RE: Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 build - 
I would think because you have tinned the wire beforehand, the small diameter of the wire used for pull/pull systems, and the high amount of residual heat in your coupler from the melted solder, you are fine. If you solder bigger wire or actual control rods, I'd make sure to heat both the wire/rod and clevis/coupler at the same time. Similar to you, I have a scrap block of wood with a hole drilled in it to hold my coupler or clevis. Using vice grips or pliers to hold the coupler saps the heat and shouldn't be used.
