RE: Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 build

RE: Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 build
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RE: Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 build - 2/8/2006 4:57:00 AM

FlyingPilgrim

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From: Canton, MI, USA
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You know, for a pretty straight-forward build, this kit has taken me a long time to build. I've made a few mods, but nothing major (dual aileron servos, new firewall, aluminum LG, different tailwheel assy.). I've heard from others that breezed through this kit in a short time, but I'm dragging butt on it. I put the Monokote on the interplane struts over the last couple days, and finally got it to lay down to "acceptable" (a couple small wrinkles). I dyed my canopy and got the frame details painted. Pull-pull cables cut/soldered, etc. Modified the exit holes for the cables due to horn locations and servo locations... The list goes on. I can't wait to fly this puppy!!! I was covering my wing and had some masking tape laid out for a guide. When I removed the tape it ripped the Monokote through one of the open bays in the wing (Ughhh!!). Hope ya'll are having a better day than I am!!

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RE: Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 build - 2/8/2006 5:20:38 AM

tuwood

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I was able to drill the mounting holes in the bottom wing & yes I went a little overboard to make sure it was straight. I'm laughing while looking at the picture of my precision setup. hehe.

I certainly owe a big thanks to rangerman & FlyingPilgrim for their advice.

I took rangerman's advice & installed the fuel tank & started on the control linkage before sheeting the top of the fuse. I have been flipping & maneuvering the fuse like crazy so I couldn't imagine how difficult all this would be after the top was sheeted.

**edit, I also took the advice to flip the carb over so the high end adjustment sticks out the top.

I used FlyingPilgrim's advice to point me in the right direction with the flex cable on the throttle. I couldn't figure out a good clevis to use that wouldn't get in the way so I decided to use an E/Z connector. I soldered the end of the cable to make it rigid & then dremel'd it down a little so it would fit in the E/Z connector. It works great!!! very smooth & no binding.

As you can also see, I mounted the engine & ran the fuel line's as well. I put in a GP easy fueler valve as well. I have never used one before so I tried to keep it inline as best I could. Hopefully it will work there.
I'm also going to try & run the exhaust down the center as I have it positioned. I don't have the cowl yet so I'm not sure how it will fit. I'm guessing that it will almost completely enclosed how I have it & I'll have to put a small extender on the bottom to point it down & out the cowl.

Do you guys think the fuel tank will be ok slanted like that or should I cut some of the top former & raise the back end to level it out?

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< Message edited by tuwood -- 2/8/2006 1:20:21 PM >

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RE: Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 build - 2/8/2006 5:32:28 AM

tuwood

Posts: 840
Joined: 11/20/2005
From: Omaha, NE, USA
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quote:

ORIGINAL: FlyingPilgrim

You know, for a pretty straight-forward build, this kit has taken me a long time to build. I've made a few mods, but nothing major (dual aileron servos, new firewall, aluminum LG, different tailwheel assy.). I've heard from others that breezed through this kit in a short time, but I'm dragging butt on it. I put the Monokote on the interplane struts over the last couple days, and finally got it to lay down to "acceptable" (a couple small wrinkles). I dyed my canopy and got the frame details painted. Pull-pull cables cut/soldered, etc. Modified the exit holes for the cables due to horn locations and servo locations... The list goes on. I can't wait to fly this puppy!!! I was covering my wing and had some masking tape laid out for a guide. When I removed the tape it ripped the Monokote through one of the open bays in the wing (Ughhh!!). Hope ya'll are having a better day than I am!!

I was expecting the build to be harder than it was because everyone says the SSE's are so easy compared to others. Other than some short comings in the manual I haven't ran into anything I would consider complex. I certainly spent a lot of time on the wings, but hey it's a bipe so there's going to be a fair amount of time spent on the wings!

On my SSE, I had just finished one of the wings & was using a heat gun to stretch out some wrinkles in the monokote & accidently burnt a hole through it... doh!
I'm thinking about trying Ultracote on this build. Everyone seems to claim it's easier to use so I figure I'll give it a shot and then I can decide which I like better. Mono or Ultra.

Do you have a scheme picked out for your covering? I'm still thinking about the black & yellow similar to the scale pictures I posted earlier but I'm having second thoughts & might try a lighter color. I better figure it out pretty soon.

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Post #: 53

RE: Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 build - 2/8/2006 2:07:05 PM

FlyingPilgrim

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Your build looks like it's coming along nicely. As far as your tank, you can cut that former out and mount your tank level. The main thing is to keep the tank center close to centerline of your carb (1/4" below, ideally). Here is a pic of how I made my tank tray to secure it to the upright former. The Tettra (sp?) tank just clears that former that is interfering on your plane. I usually only cut holes in firewall large enough for the flex lines to go through, but in this case I had to cut a 3/4" hole so the hard lines of the tank could protrude through the firewall in order to get the tank to clear that former. I also did not want any risk of the tank sliding forward against the back of the firewall crimping the lines. That is not a problem with other tanks like GP or DuBro, where there is a protrusion in the tank to prevent kinking of lines.

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RE: Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 build - 2/8/2006 3:15:33 PM

rangerman

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The warbird is fine, I imagine $25 or so for a new canopy and a little paper and you won't know the difference but thanks for the concern.

I'll try it out and post my results but I'm sure it will be a couple of months. (Of the smoke system)

< Message edited by rangerman -- 2/8/2006 6:51:25 PM >

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Post #: 55

RE: Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 build - 2/8/2006 6:44:29 PM

FlyingPilgrim

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quote:

ORIGINAL: rangerman

The Stuka is fine, I imagine $25 or so for a new canopy and a little paper and you won't know the difference.

I'll try it out and post my results but I'm sure it will be a couple of months.

Huh??

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RE: Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 build - 2/8/2006 6:52:27 PM

rangerman

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That was in response to the smoke system and the accident I had, sorry about that.

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Post #: 57

RE: Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 build - 2/8/2006 7:35:25 PM

rangerman

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Tony, I've used the EZ filler on a couple of planes and I just started trying the fuel dots because I fly so many different planes the adapter issue got kind of old. Sometimes I had problems getting the fuel adapter to fit in the adapter so I'm curious to see what you think. Is it too close to the firewall? When you put the cowl on I would think it would be covered up but I haven't investigated it yet. That's my next step so I'm not sure what I'll use, fuel dot or EZ system but I like your install...nice and clean.

Pilgram, did you find where we were talking about the smoke? I must have been in a hurry when I wrote that. I think my fuel tank mid-line is level with the carb inlet. What is is the reason for 1/4" lower, fuel leading out carb?

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Post #: 58

RE: Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 build - 2/8/2006 8:51:41 PM

tuwood

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quote:

ORIGINAL: rangerman

Tony, I've used the EZ filler on a couple of planes and I just started trying the fuel dots because I fly so many different planes the adapter issue got kind of old. Sometimes I had problems getting the fuel adapter to fit in the adapter so I'm curious to see what you think. Is it too close to the firewall? When you put the cowl on I would think it would be covered up but I haven't investigated it yet. That's my next step so I'm not sure what I'll use, fuel dot or EZ system but I like your install...nice and clean.

Pilgram, did you find where we were talking about the smoke? I must have been in a hurry when I wrote that. I think my fuel tank mid-line is level with the carb inlet. What is is the reason for 1/4" lower, fuel leading out carb?

The fuel valve will be behind the cowl but I figured I'd cut a hole in the cowl for access. I didn't want to route the fuel lines to where it wouldn't be covered by the cowl because it seemed like too much distance for the fuel to go. I'm also planning to install a dubro remote glow ignitor so I don't have to have a hole in the cowl for the glow plug. (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD693) I'll put that further back on the fuse because it doesn't really matter where it goes.

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RE: Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 build - 2/8/2006 9:24:16 PM

rangerman

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I don't remember if I said or not but we will be installing a switch and servo with a "AA" rechargeable battery that is activated by the throttle for the ignition...sounds complex but is simple and nice not to have to worry about a glow ignitor. Here's one I did before

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< Message edited by rangerman -- 2/8/2006 9:31:20 PM >

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RE: Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 build - 2/9/2006 5:32:50 AM

tuwood

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I didn't get to spend a lot of time in the shop tonight but did make some good progress.

I decided to put the top formers on so I'd know how they'd interact with the fuel tank. As you can see I was able to level the tank out & the tank is just a little lower than the carb but hopefully it will work out. I didn't glue the front of the tank mount because it stays in the notches very well. If I run into a pressure issue with the tank down the road I can just cut the small brace on the back & slide the whole assembly out to modify it.
I did cut a small notch at the front of the tank because the tubes were a little snug up against some wood. I'll probably throw another triangle stock on top of that to make sure there's plenty of reinforcement in that area.

I built a servo mount for the throttle servo out of aircraft ply. My goal was to get it as close as possible to minimize flex on the cable. With the two guides I made for the flex cable to go through it's very rigid & I think it's going to work out well.

I did notice that the "BB" former was a little confusing as to where exactly to mount it. The manual says to mount it in the notches but there arent any. The plan's had it very far up where it would be up on top of the gas tank. That left a huge gap between it and the instrument panel former so I dropped it back a bit & put it on top of the B former where it seemed like it should go.

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Post #: 61