RE: Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 build  
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RE: Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 build - 2/14/2006 1:47:06 PM   
FlyingPilgrim



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From: Canton, MI, USA
Status: offline 		The aileron linkage you have shows a set screw cable lock type fastener on the servo horn. I would not recommend using that when you fly. Use a solder on clevis for a more positive anchor, as they are much more positive / less likely to slip or loosen.

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RE: Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 build - 2/14/2006 4:52:54 PM   
tuwood



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From: Omaha, NE, USA
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quote:

ORIGINAL: FlyingPilgrim

The aileron linkage you have shows a set screw cable lock type fastener on the servo horn. I would not recommend using that when you fly. Use a solder on clevis for a more positive anchor, as they are much more positive / less likely to slip or loosen.


I was wondering when somebody was going to notice that.
I had used those connectors successfully on my smaller planes and initially was going to use them on this, but I figured with the extra size & torque I would be pressing my luck.
I plan to buy a 4-40 die set & thread the servo side of the pushrod and use dubro ball links. I just used the E/Z links to line up the linkages because I haven't bought the ball links yet.



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RE: Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 build - 2/14/2006 5:28:54 PM   
FlyingPilgrim



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Status: offline 		You may have trouble threading the rods. The factory threads on metal control rods are "rolled", which raises the threaded area higher than the diameter of the rod. If you try to cut your own threads, they will not be as high (as deep a bite) as needed. Get out the soldering iron and be done with it.. BTW, if you don't already have the solder clevises, you may be able to use the threaded ones to solder with. If they are too tight to slip on, drill out same dia as rod.

The other option is to use carbon rods with glue in titanium ends. Then you can use the ball ends you mention.

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RE: Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 build - 2/14/2006 7:15:09 PM   
tuwood



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From: Omaha, NE, USA
Status: offline 		Well, that's certainly some good food for thought. I'm pretty much committed to the ball links because I mounted the control horn slightly offset from the servo horn due to the ball link mounting on the outside of the servo. If I went with a standard clevis it would bind somewhat now.
I'll certainly have some options to play with & will post my end results.

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RE: Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 build - 2/15/2006 12:53:44 AM   
captinjohn


 

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From: Hesperia, MI, USA
Status: offline 		I know another guy who is building his 3RD Ultimate bipe!!!!

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RE: Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 build - 2/15/2006 5:00:00 AM   
tuwood



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Joined: 11/20/2005
From: Omaha, NE, USA
Status: offline 		I made a trip to the LHS today and picked up the Dubro pull-pull system. I think I'll be a lot more comfortable with the crimps on the cable versus solder holding a thin wire in a connector such as the stock system.

I see exactly what you mean about the rolled threads on the pushrod's so if I were to run a die over it the threads wouldn't be very deep. Thanks for that, you saved me some money on a die set!
I talked with a couple of the builders at the LHS & they recommended that I solder on the threaded couplers on the end of my pushrod's & then I can use the ball links.

I certainly found one huge difference with the Ultimate versus my SSE I built. on the SSE the servo tray was pre-built & I just had to mount them whereas on the Ultimate I'm on my own.
I mentioned earlier that I'm going with the dual elevator servo's & have the general servo tray layout drawn on some aircraft ply. I also installed the elevator linkages so I could test the alignment.

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RE: Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 build - 2/15/2006 1:09:20 PM   
Bobman


 

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From: Alden, NY, USA
Status: offline 		Tony,

Check out some Hanger Nine accesories before you go making the short aileron pushrods. They make a nice set of turnbuckle (threaded both sides) rods in a variety of lengths (I believe to 6" that would allow you to thread your ball-links on both ends. Also, if you don't mind going metric, check out the RC Car fittings as they have similar ones as well. Not that I have anything against soldering couplers....

Lookin' good!

Bob

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RE: Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 build - 2/15/2006 2:23:16 PM   
tuwood



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From: Omaha, NE, USA
Status: offline 		Thanks for the tip Bob. I saw that my LHS had 2-56 full threaded rod's but they didn't have any in 4-40. I was considering ordering some of these: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFV03&P=7 which would accomplish the same thing.
I might see how the solder joints go & then take it from there. I used to do a lot of soldering back in my Navy days so I should be OK.

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RE: Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 build - 2/15/2006 3:50:29 PM   
FlyingPilgrim



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From: Canton, MI, USA
Status: offline 		If you have problems getting the DuBro cable to loop through the crimp collar three times, you can strip off the plastic coating with a razor blade.

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RE: Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 build - 2/15/2006 8:25:38 PM   
Garthwood


 

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Status: offline 		tuwood..................doing a great job with you Ultimate build. Came across this thread and had to read through it. Excellent.
I'm assembling the ARF version of the Ultimate. Did a few mods. Regarding the pull-pull rudder I double crimp. The first crimp is looped inside the brass tube (short piece of fuel brass tubing) and then crimpled, the second crimp is there for security. Got this advise from a friend of flies turbines. I have at t ached some pics. Also I've attached a pic of the throttle connections (ball links).
[image][/image]

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RE: Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 build - 2/15/2006 8:52:10 PM   
Garthwood


 

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Status: offline 		truwood...........here's more pics of the ARF version that I'm assembling. Used 4-40 all the way. Hardly used any of the hardware supplied. [image][/image] the elevator servos installed in the back. I opened up the bottom of the ARF so I'll be able to install the servo platforms. You can also see that the pull-pull wire was crossed over, corner to corner to eliminate any slack.

Garthwood

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       Post #: 86

RE: Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 build - 2/15/2006 9:30:32 PM   
tuwood



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Joined: 11/20/2005
From: Omaha, NE, USA
Status: offline 		Thanks for the compliment.

I appreciate the pictures and have a couple questions; What Saito engine are you running & are you going to have to add nose weight to accomodate the rear elevator servo's. I'm not sure if my 1.25 is considered heavy or light for this airframe.

From a pushrod flex standpoint, I really want to put my elevator servo's in the tail but I'm worried about the CG and certainly want to avoid adding dead weight if at all possible. I may just put the wings & engine on to see how much of a CG hit I'll be looking at with the servo's in the tail.

Tony

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RE: Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 build - 2/15/2006 11:47:54 PM