RE: Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 build

RE: Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 build
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RE: Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 build - 2/17/2006 1:22:13 PM

Garthwood

Posts: 471
Joined: 5/2/2003
From: mississauga, ON, CANADA
Status: offline

hi Tony...............when I installed the rudder pull-pull I had some help from a friend of mine. He flies 43percents and larger and jet turbines. His pull pull system always cross each other. The wire has a coating. I've made that same question to him about rubbing, but assured me that it won't fray. It is more reliable as it won't cause any slack and it has instant response. The straight installation gives slack when one side is deflected/pulled. 90 lb. fishing line wire will work as as well. Du-bro has a good one too. I got some pull pull wire from this friend I'm talking about. It is quite strong and got a coating. Crossing the wire will give you direct clean exit and easier to calculate the point of exit. From my pictures it is hard to see the exit, that's how clean it is.

Garthwood.

(in reply to tuwood)

Post #: 101

RE: Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 build - 2/17/2006 1:41:39 PM

Garthwood

Posts: 471
Joined: 5/2/2003
From: mississauga, ON, CANADA
Status: offline

rangerman......................I have a Saito .91 that I installed on a Waco, it only has about four flights. I have to keep an eye on it about what you said, spitting fuel. This summer I'll take the cowl off and see what happens. Thanks.
I did notice that my new Saito 1.20 has a longer carb flute, is that what you are talking about ? And what is causing this spray of fuel that you mentioned ?.
garthwood.

(in reply to rangerman)

Post #: 102

RE: Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 build - 2/17/2006 3:19:01 PM

tuwood

Posts: 840
Joined: 11/20/2005
From: Omaha, NE, USA
Status: offline

quote:

ORIGINAL: rangerman

Hey Tony, I've been working on our club's web site and helping some newbies so I'm behind. I thought I was going to finish before you

I guess I'm so excited to get my Ultimate flying I just can't stop working on it.

I'll probably get it done and have to stare at it for a couple months before the weather will cooporate and let me go fly.

quote:

ORIGINAL: rangerman

How reliable are the ball links? I used Golden Rod for the elevator halves and I'll get the Sullivan kevlar pull pull for the rudder. I've started using "U" bends on my servo connections (pictures later) that are a lot more snug than "Z" bends. I'll never make another "Z" bend!
In my application with the engine mounted at 135 degrees I mounted my throttle servo upside down which gave me a straight line to the engine (again, pictures later).
I'm not a fan on the control horns on the elevators but I'm new so what can you tell me about them? I had a CG Extra with them that I sold before I flew it. I really like the rudder horns, who makes those?

I haven't used the ball links in the past, but I've read good things about them. I think the benefit is that they don't have any slop. I guess time will tell.

I went with the control horns on the elevator's for a few reason's:
1. they are easier to mount, just have to drill one hole and not worry about lining up 4 small screw holes
2. they have a lot of throw and are easy to adjust in small increments, just screw the connector up or down.
3. Probably the biggest reason I like them is becuase they seem to not make the pushrod's flex up and down as much as the standard control horns. On my SSE with standard horns, the pushrod's bow a lot at the extreme control's whereas the dubro's tend to keep the cable relatively level through the full range of motion.
I attached the pictures I took of the aileron's and you see that the angle of the pushrod doesn't change much. Hope that makes sense.

I don't know if they're better or not, that's just the thought process as to why I chose to use them.

The rudder horns are Sullivan "Left/Right" horns that come as a set: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFV36&P=7

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Post #: 103

RE: Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 build - 2/17/2006 4:29:17 PM

tuwood

Posts: 840
Joined: 11/20/2005
From: Omaha, NE, USA
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quote:

ORIGINAL: A.Thinn

Nice building jobs! Looking forward to seeing some finished-photos!
I just crashed my CG Ultimate after 11years and approx 2-300 flights... It was powered by an Os 1.20, and hovered on 3/4 throttle.

Now I'm building another one (I just LOVED that plane!!), and have to buy a new engine due to the sudden ice-impact of the old one!
I see you are using the Saito 1.25. I am curious as to how the Saito 150 would fit into the model? It is theoretically only 150g heavier, and should produce enough power to pull the Ultimate out of hover??
Anyone tried this combo, or has experience with the 150? How is the Os - Saito comparison with regards to temperatures below -5C? (The Os was a handful to start below 0C, but worked well with a starter). I've never owned a Saito, så I'm just curios....
I am a bit afraid of the vibrations, as rumours say the 180 has a vibration problem.

Sorry to hear about your crash. I'm dreading the day I crash one of my kit planes. (I know it will happen)

I think the Saito 150 is about the same size block as the Saito 120 so it should fit OK. I'm not sure how much authority it would give over the 1.25 becuase of the extra weight. I guess there's only one way to find out.

I don't have personal experience starting the Saito's versus the others under 0C, but we had a winter fly last week and a couple guys had saito's that started right up and it was around -10C

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Post #: 104

RE: Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 build - 2/17/2006 7:40:38 PM

rangerman

Posts: 449
Joined: 5/18/2004
From: Fort Worth, TX, USA
Status: offline

quote:

ORIGINAL: Garthwood

rangerman......................I have a Saito .91 that I installed on a Waco, it only has about four flights. I have to keep an eye on it about what you said, spitting fuel. This summer I'll take the cowl off and see what happens. Thanks.
I did notice that my new Saito 1.20 has a longer carb flute, is that what you are talking about ? And what is causing this spray of fuel that you mentioned ?.
garthwood.

Yep, it's known as a velocity stack and I'm using the Bru-Line filter
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=BRU202
and velocity stack for the 91
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=SAI50GK93
contrary to what Horizon help support said, it does fit the 125 although there is a lip on the carb on two sides that leaves a gap under the velocity stack mount. I will find some way of plugging this up though, maybe some black silicone.

(in reply to Garthwood)

Post #: 105

RE: Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 build - 2/17/2006 7:43:19 PM

rangerman

Posts: 449
Joined: 5/18/2004
From: Fort Worth, TX, USA
Status: offline

Ok Tony, just left my crack dealer, I mean hobby shop, and I got the Sullivan kevlar pull pull and Dubro ball links. I got the Dubro after market large servo arms for the rudder, what size are you using? While I was there another club member saw my engine with the Dubro quick filler on it and talked me out of it. He said a lot of guys at our field said they were getting clogged...I hate constant messing with stuff so I will go with a fuel dot and an extra clunck (MS?) in the fuel tank.

(in reply to tuwood)

Post #: 106

RE: Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 build - 2/17/2006 8:29:51 PM

tuwood

Posts: 840
Joined: 11/20/2005
From: Omaha, NE, USA
Status: offline

quote:

ORIGINAL: rangerman

Ok Tony, just left my crack dealer, I mean hobby shop, and I got the Sullivan kevlar pull pull and Dubro ball links. I got the Dubro after market large servo arms for the rudder, what size are you using? While I was there another club member saw my engine with the Dubro quick filler on it and talked me out of it. He said a lot of guys at our field said they were getting clogged...I hate constant messing with stuff so I will go with a fuel dot and an extra clunck (MS?) in the fuel tank.

hehe, i call my LHS the crack house too.

I bought the "Dubro Super Strength Futaba J Long" for the servo arms. They're certainly overkill for the recommended stock throws but necessary to push 45+ degree throws such as I have built in.

This is the first time I've tried the fueler adapter so I'll have to see how it works out. I don't think it would be too tough to retro in a fuel dot in the future if I had to so I'll give it a go.

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Post #: 107

RE: Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 build - 2/17/2006 8:40:28 PM

rangerman

Posts: 449
Joined: 5/18/2004
From: Fort Worth, TX, USA
Status: offline

quote:

ORIGINAL: tuwood

quote:

ORIGINAL: rangerman

This is the first time I've tried the fueler adapter so I'll have to see how it works out. I don't think it would be too tough to retro in a fuel dot in the future if I had to so I'll give it a go.

Yah, it's the same size hole as the fuel dot. Now that I've fixed the 91 I might put the fuel filler back in the other plane because I thought it was leaking and come to find out it was the engine spray, just to see for myself. Tim

(in reply to tuwood)

Post #: 108

RE: Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 build - 2/18/2006 4:39:59 AM

FlyingPilgrim

Posts: 1254
Joined: 9/24/2002
From: Canton, MI, USA
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For those adding a velocity stack to their Saitos, the easiest way to seal them against the carb is to use a hardware store O-ring of the right diameter. To help allign it perfectly, the end of a standard x-acto hobby knife is the same diameter as the I.D. of the carb, and can be inserted while assembling the parts. There is a thread here on Saito velocity stacks, but I couldn't find it right off. Horizon raised the price on the stacks since they are selling so well!

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Post #: 109

RE: Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 build - 2/18/2006 5:22:44 AM

rangerman

Posts: 449
Joined: 5/18/2004
From: Fort Worth, TX, USA
Status: offline

quote:

ORIGINAL: FlyingPilgrim

For those adding a velocity stack to their Saitos, the easiest way to seal them against the carb is to use a hardware store O-ring of the right diameter. To help allign it perfectly, the end of a standard x-acto hobby knife is the same diameter as the I.D. of the carb, and can be inserted while assembling the parts. There is a thread here on Saito velocity stacks, but I couldn't find it right off. Horizon raised the price on the stacks since they are selling so well!

That's what I planned on doing since there is already a groove on the center of the openning so I figured the o-ring will stay in place pretty good.

(in reply to FlyingPilgrim)

Post #: 110

RE: Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 build - 2/18/2006 6:18:40 AM

tuwood

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Joined: 11/20/2005
From: Omaha, NE, USA
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I went to finish up a few loose ends so I could do a final assembly/balance prior to covering phase (RCKen advice). I'm a little frustrated that my Stans cowl & LG aren't here yet (it's only been about 2 & 1/2 weeks though) because I need them to finish up the fuse.

I made a reinforcement wedge for the tailwheel assembly. I glued it on the inside of the fuse for the blind nuts to go into. I then attached the tailwheel assembly.

I then moved onto the interwing aileron pushrod. I bought heavy duty dubro control horns & cut them down to the innermost hole. I wish I could find something that hangs over the back with a hole on it because that would make the alignment perfect. I also realized that I only bought one pair of the horns so I have to make another trip to the LHS tomorrow for the top wing.

I hadn't drilled and mounted the interwing struts yet so I moved on to that and had a major oh $*@# moment. The directions prior to wing assembly told me to drill a 1/16" hole through the number 7 rib and sure enough the hardware that comes with the kit requres a 5/32" hole. Grrrr

It's not exaclty easy clamping wood on both sides of the ply (to avoid splintering) and trying to drill sideways next to the wing... So, for those that haven't started this kit yet, the hole needs to be at least 5/32" for the blind nut to fit. I spent probably 2 hours drilling & filing the holes to get my blind nuts in but I was successful with no collateral damage.

I then put everything together & after I spent another 30 minutes just staring at this beauty I figured I better check the wing incidence and alignments to make sure I don't need to tweak anything.
I'm not 100% sure how to check the 0 degree point of wing incedence but I put my meter on the rear stab & propped the plane up until it was at 0 degrees. I then moved my meter to the front wing and it looks like (correct me if I'm reading it wrong) I have -3/4 degree of incidence on the front wings & both wings are exactly the same (I think that's good) I attached pictures of the bottom & top wing readings.

I threw all the guts in and then did another balance and I'm quite a bit tail heavy but I don't have the cowl or LG on yet so I think I'll be pretty close, but even if I have to add weight it will be in the nose so I can proceed with covering.
I also laterally balanced it and with the battery pack laying on the left side I had to add 1 oz. of weight to the left wingtip's to get a lateral balance.

Just for giggles I threw it on the digital scale and my full up weight minus monokote, cowling, prop, spinner, & LG is 6.8 lbs. Darn, so much for my 4 lb. monster!! (just kidding)

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Post #: 111

RE: Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 build - 2/18/2006 5:20:10 PM

captinjohn

Posts: 5841
Joined: 1/25/2002
From: Hesperia, MI, USA
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Can you post a photo of the whole lazer level set-up from a few feet back? Thanks Capt,n

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