coupar
Posts: 62
Joined: 3/17/2003
From: Leesburg, VA, USA
Status: offline
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JL636:
I did no adjustments to the Perry carb or pump. I could'nt agree with you more on this engine. - See my previous responses. There is some great advice in this thread and people have put a great effort into it. Not 24 has some great recommendations and results. But for ME the answer was on board glow.
I could get the 2300 carb running pretty well, not great on the transition but OK. Then in the air, first flight, dead stick out of no where. I was using the stock muffler. I tried the easy stuff first, bored out the exhaust pressure tap a little, tried larger fuel tubing, used an F plug, tried a Fox magic plug, redid the fuel system completely, tried different fuels, ran 3 gallons of fuel through the engine. Engine ran fine on the ground but deadstick not of no where in the air. Nothing seemed to make a difference, though the 15% fuel seemed to make the engine rougher and heat up (??). Had all kinds of help and suggestions and tuning tweaks from other club guys all to no avail.
Then I tried spending real money. The Perry carb smoothed out the transitions but same problem. The pump did'nt seem to do anything. I actually went back and tried combinations of the other stuff with the Perry pump and carb. At times it seemed I was getting somewhere, the flights were getting longer, but the end was always a dead stick. I finally put on the on board and it was like magic. The engine ran flawlessly it has been running like that for months now. For ME that was the answer.
I would not suggest you spend any money on trying an on board glow. You might even be able to fasten a regular glow starter for a few flights to see how it does. The infuriating thing for me is that I tried the on board last and it was the cheapest solution! I just got a 6 amp switch (3 position dual switch in parallel) from Radio shack, a 4500 nimh sub c battery from cheapbatterypacks.com and drilled a hole through a small stand off to fasten to the plug with some of that automotive copper caulk to act as an insulator. The whole thing was less than $10, about 3ozs max. You could certainly try a more sophisticated on board glow driver but there never seemed to be any logic to when the engine would quit so I needed the glow 100% of the time. I am also not impressed with the efficiency of some of these glow drivers. If they waste the battery energy, that's less flying time. The 4500 nimh gets me about 2 hours of flying.
As you said, one of the things about this engine is it is so inconsistent! So everybody has different advice based on their success. If someone has an out of the box tune and go, it appears that people like me just dont know what they are doing. That could be right but for MY particular engine there seemed to be only one answer.
Good Luck!
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RE: ST2300 Testing and Experimenting - 
