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RE: Is dope & fabric covering dead? - 6/12/2009 3:59 PM   
MJD



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I still regularly use silkspan and nitrate dope on a variety of my models, even film covered, as I find hardly anything works more easily to stiffen and toughen up a lightweight part and provide a smooth and compatible surface for a variety of finishes. I cover many small models this way, then finish up with a couple of coats of prime and color, and still hit 8-9 ounces on some of my 1/2A's. It hs to be far lighter than filling and priming wood, not to mention it actually adds strength. I finished a 1/4" thick sheet balsa 1/2A racer wing with a D box of CF veil, then silkspan over the whole wing - man did it ever stiffen up! And it is so easy to apply and post finish it's a shame more people don't give it a whirl. Esp. if you buy your dope by the quart at an aircraft builder's supply to save some money. Nitrate dope is one of the more universally compatible base coats, and in fact has saved me from the odd finishing disaster by acting as an intermediary coat. I think CA might be the only thing that dries/cures faster..

MJD

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RE: Is dope & fabric covering dead? - 6/26/2009 4:41 AM   
Gremlin Castle


 

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Check out this link for a fresh dope and fabric job. It is a classic nitrate under butyrate applied over polyester dress liner.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_7846147/mpage_22/key_/tm.htm

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RE: Is dope & fabric covering dead? - 7/6/2009 1:20 AM   
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Here's a piccy of my Ben Buckle Super 60.
It was covered in spinnaker rip-stop nylon, stuck down with butyrate dope and then finished with yet more dope (about 5 thin coats I think) and 2 layers of Tuf-Kote (resin fuel-proofer)
OS FP35, s148 servos.
The model survived going through a tree at full chat. Can't see film covering putting up with that!

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RE: Is dope & fabric covering dead? - 7/9/2009 1:44 AM   
KitBuilder



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Once covered how does one get the clean crisp paint lines. I'm going to be starting an Eindecker EIII soon and want to attempt a fabric covering fnish. I suppose I can use one the tex's with the sticky back but they're pretty expensive.. I'm looking at around 50 bucks for two rolls

< Message edited by KitBuilder -- 7/9/2009 1:45 AM >


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RE: Is dope & fabric covering dead? - 7/9/2009 5:19 AM   
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I mask all with pin striping and then cover the rest with 3m blue masking tape and paper if needed. I air brush multiple coats with a fast drying reducer, and peal the tape back on itself before all has dried completly. Carefully. perfect line every time. 35 years experience has brought me to this method.

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RE: Is dope & fabric covering dead? - 7/9/2009 10:21 AM   
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Silk and dope is alive and well here in NZ too!  Attached are pictures of some of my models.  The large vintage is approx 2.7metre span.  The wing is the original built by designer in 1939.  I refurbished it taking out all the warps, fixing broken bits, and recovering in silk.  Built new fuselage - end result is a lovely floater, a joy to fly.  The pink/white model is a Thermal Thumber - wasdestroyed after radio failure but replacement almost finished.  The Tiger Moth is also nearly finished.  This is a quarter scale Flair kit.  Power is a Laser 150 four stroke. Covering on the TM is coverall.  Have been enjoying the read on this site. 



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RE: Is dope & fabric covering dead? - 7/9/2009 12:15 PM   
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Allens1..That Tiger Moth looks like it's going to be a beauty!! Hope you post a nice picture of the finished model.

Soft landings.

Joe

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RE: Is dope & fabric covering dead? - 7/9/2009 4:23 PM   
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quote:

ORIGINAL: KitBuilder

Once covered how does one get the clean crisp paint lines. I'm going to be starting an Eindecker EIII soon and want to attempt a fabric covering fnish. I suppose I can use one the tex's with the sticky back but they're pretty expensive.. I'm looking at around 50 bucks for two rolls

Obtain low-tack masking tape from an auto factor or local hardware store. Duck Tape do a nice blue one that gives good lines.
I recomend that you seal the fabric first with several layers of shrinking dope. Apply intelligently so as not to introduce warping of the structure. Wash-out at the wingtips is usually a beneficial side effect of shrinking dope on open structures.
Then, when all is dry and smooth, apply the decorative base-coat using very thin paint, airbrushed on to a depth that just produces the colour you want. Mask significant areas of alternate colours (like the centre black on the Eindeker's Wing crosses).
When the base coat is dry, mask the edges of the alternate area and spray on that colour.
Before the alternate colour is completely dry, apply any pin striping using a brush at the colour boundary.
And before it has all completely cured, apply a clear finishing laquer over the whole model. This tends to reduce the steps at the colour boundaries. If the structure is sufficiently rigid, some judicious wet-and-dry can be applied at the boundaries too to remove ridges.

You can see that painting a model can be very involved and the work needs to be planned. In particular, the drying times of the paint need to be known.

When Hobbypoxy was available, I took 9 months to paint a model: 3 undercoats, 5 thin coats of 4 different colours and 2 finishing clear overcoats.
It made for a very pretty smoking hole!

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RE: Is dope & fabric covering dead? - 7/10/2009 5:01 PM   
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I lean toward the fabrics because the airplanes I like were covered in fabric. I will miss Supershrink Coverite when my supply runs out so will go with a Stits product or Sig Koverall to replace it. I still use tissue and silk on some smaller airplanes. Plastics films for quick and dirty but can be done nicely. Some of the best finishes I've seen are by scale control line guys- dope and silk- tissue, lots of elbo grease and TLC!

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RE: Is dope & fabric covering dead? - 7/10/2009 5:08 PM   
ARUP


 

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Hi Kitbuilder, the crosses on Eindekkers were hand painted using crude templates at the factory and were pretty much freehand painted 'to spec' in the field after repairs. Don't worry about making them perfect! I used a Sarpie to detail my E-III- see my Gallery. Consider Sig Koverall or a Stits product for yours. Good luck!

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RE: Is dope & fabric covering dead? - 7/11/2009 2:15 PM   
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Well, I'm curious now...with todays products is there a low odor method by which I can cover and paint a model in my basement without dangerous/smelly fumes taking over the house. I'd sure like to give it a go but after using iron-on material for decades I've lost my "feel" for the cover and paint method. Thanks.

Soft landings.

Joe

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RE: Is dope & fabric covering dead? - 7/11/2009 11:55 PM   
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You can apply the fabric with PolyC and fill the weave with it as well.
Latex paint is a good option. I apply it with an HVLP spray gun, you must thin the latex for spraying. It cleans up with water and there is no smell.
Anthony

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RE: Is dope & fabric covering dead? - 7/12/2009 1:04 AM   
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Thanks, Anthony. Let me see if I have this correct: I can apply something like Koverall with MinWax PolyC and fill the weave with the same product. Then, as in your example, I'd paint with Latex paint (what is the ratio of paint to water for thinning?). What would I need to apply over the Latex paint to fuelproof the finish (I use 15% nitro fuels)? And, finally, what is an HVLP spraygun?

Soft landings.

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RE: Is dope & fabric covering dead? - 7/12/2009 11:33 PM   
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Joe,
I have never used the PolyC to apply the fabric but I know guys who have, you can brush a coat onto the wood and let it dry then iron the fabic down to the PolyC. I prefer dope myself.
An HVLP gun is (High Volume_Low Pressure) You need to thin the latex 40-50%. I use regular cheap blue windshield washer fluid. I also add a cap full of Floetrol. You can get the Floetrol at Home Depot. It is made for conditioning latex for spraying.
If you are using nitro fuel you will need to fuel proof. I use Nelson Hobbies clear coat. It is also water based and sprays easily with an HVLP gun. You can get HVLP guns from Harbor Freight for about $30.
The great thing about latex is you can get custom mixed colors for about $15 a quart.
Hope this helps!!
Anthony

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RE: Is dope & fabric covering dead? - 7/13/2009 1:04 AM   
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There's a person on wattflyer that did pretty good instructions on covering with the poly c.

http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42439

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RE: Is dope & fabric covering dead? - 7/13/2009 1:04 PM   
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Thanks, Anthony and pd1, for your help! I really appreciate the information and will give the procedure a try. There is a plan built Sig Astro-Hog that's all framed and ready to cover just a waiting on one of my build tables. I believe I'll try the red and white finish (as in the advertisements) and see how the model comes out.

Soft landings.

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RE: Is dope & fabric covering dead? - 7/13/2009 2:05 PM   
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quote:

ORIGINAL: WacoNut

Joe,
  then iron the fabic down to the PolyC. I prefer dope myself.

Anthony

Is the PolyC you are referring to a wallpaper adhesive? (It's called Polycell in the UK if it is)
Regards,
Carole



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RE: Is dope & fabric covering dead? - 7/13/2009 10:54 PM   
WacoNut



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No in the US it is PolyCrylic, it is a water based Polyurethane marketed by Minwax. Do a google search for Minwax Polycrylic.
Anthony

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RE: Is dope & fabric covering dead? - 7/15/2009 4:57 PM   
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Ta!


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RE: Is dope & fabric covering dead? - 7/24/2009 3:47 PM   
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This is a really good thread. I'm going to link to it from my site.

I just posted an article this past weekend on how to silk a wing. I didn't realize so many people were still using doped finishes. I never see any at my field.

Any of you silk and dope experts who see any glaring flaws in my article please let me know. This is the first time I've silked anything since about 1977 so I'm way out of practice.

http://www.airfieldmodels.com/information_source/how_to_articles_for_model_builders/finishing_techniques/silk_a_wing/index.htm

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RE: Is dope & fabric covering dead? - 7/25/2009 2:20 PM   
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Cafeenman,
I read thru your article and it looks good to me, I really enjoy your site and have found it usefull for some projects.
Thanks!!
Anthony

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RE: Is dope & fabric covering dead? - 7/25/2009 5:08 PM   
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Thanks Anthony,

What the article doesn't say is that I ended up stripping off all that silk. When I doped it, it turned almost orange and I REALLY didn't like the color. The articles were posted before that happened and I really wasn't expecting it.

I've sanded it all back down and have one more base coat of dope to apply. Then a little sanding and put on the new silk. That will be the last part of the article series and I'll explain what happened to the original silk so people aren't confused about why the wing changed color.

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RE: Is dope & fabric covering dead? - 7/25/2009 5:21 PM   
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OK that explains why you didn't go into actually applying dope to the silk.

Sorry about the color change on your silk. I used Ritt dye and got a very vivid red color.

Dyeing silk with Ritt.
http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34917

I have also found that the silk from Thai Silk seems to be pre shrunk. There is very little shrinkage after it is applied.
Great for lightweight structures and over solid sheeted areas.

I found the silk from Dharma trading shrinks very well. I've fallen in love with the way it works.
It's also a very tight weave so not that many coats of dope are needed to fill the weave.

I went into covering and doping in these two build threads.
http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35712
http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20546

Also, very nice web site.

Paul

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RE: Is dope & fabric covering dead? - 7/25/2009 5:31 PM   
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Actually, the reason I didn't go into doping the wing was because I had a lot of things coming up and I had several new articles to post. I couldn't post any without posting all. So knowing that I might be delayed a month I decided to post what I had.

Then I did have time to dope the wing and was hoping to have the article finished this weekend. Instead I'm back to sealing the wing.

I noticed the silk didn't shrink that much as you mentioned. I said at the beginning of the article I've only used habotai silk but I think that's wrong. I have used Sig and K & B silk in the past and I assumed they were the same thing I bought from Thai Silks but they might be different.

The silk I'm using now seems to have a much tighter weave and it stays together very well.

Oh, and a great tip I discovered. Some of the weave had come slightly apart throughout the process and I thought I was stuck with it.

When I vacuumed the wing with a brush after the silk was applied I ran the brush along the span and it pulled most of the weave back together like it never happened. That was totally unexpected and a very nice surprise.

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RE: Is dope & fabric covering dead? - 8/10/2009 1:57 PM   
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quote:

ORIGINAL: squeakalong

 basement      dangerous/smelly fumes

Joe


cellulose fumes.
Boiler pilot light.



you see where I'm going with this?


About 3,000 feet straight up


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