Mustang Exhaust
- Kit
Seller:tony-howard Details:
$35.00
| 9/21/2008
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Posts: 872
Joined: 6/25/2004 From: Louisville,
KY, USA Status: offline
I just ordered the nitro planes FW190...it's supossed to arrive today& i'm already antsy to make modifications like adding balsa to the wings for a split flap effect. But what I saw on yours was the spinner...Where did you find that relatively scale spinner for your FW 190.? PS: it looks great!
Posts: 872
Joined: 6/25/2004 From: Louisville,
KY, USA Status: offline
My Nitro planes 190 is scheduled to arrive today. I bought robarts for it, but if possible, would liek to see more images of the work you did to the wings 7 wheel wells to accommodate for the longer gear, etc... is that a 1.20FS in the engine ? I plan on using a saito 1.20 for it as well. have you flown yours yet ? was there ample power ? Did you end up stripping off the "shelf paper" ? Is this material the same stuff that comes on VMAR, VQ and some kyosho planes? I hope it's not { a heavy, rubberylike fiklm with an adheasive on it}. If you took it off how much trouble did you have with it? I'm super psyched about this plane, and whant to get as many learning from other modeler's as i can. Thanks!
Posts: 360
Joined: 10/15/2002 From: Murfreesboro,
TN, USA Status: offline
What Robarts did you buy NoFlaps? It sucks that the retracts cost more than the plane I plan on stripping the wings and tail down to bare wood and then fill and sand smooth the shtting joints, etc.. I will glass them and paint after that.
Posts: 872
Joined: 6/25/2004 From: Louisville,
KY, USA Status: offline
I'm ashamed to say that I don't know... This will be the 1st set of air retracts that I own. They are air pressurized and have plastic housing w/ metal internal components...[designed for a .90 size plane] and i had a concern with tghe plastic Vs. metal because the metal ones were more expensive than the plane.
Posts: 872
Joined: 6/25/2004 From: Louisville,
KY, USA Status: offline
I was noticing the location of "Broken's" servo tray in the photo, his look further fwd, closer to the firewall, I wonder if that would dramaticly help the CG problem with this plane...from what I've read, this plane needs a load of extra nose weight. Hmmm!
Posts: 872
Joined: 6/25/2004 From: Louisville,
KY, USA Status: offline
I got mine today... The film is strange and the paint adheres improperly, meaning it's already started to come off from the tape they attached to the wings. Man that cowl is HUGE! I also have a small crack/ area missing in teh fiberglass, but it can easily be fixed. I'm a lil confused on where and how to locate the robarts air tank, even though there's loads of room...I'm going to try to put as much stuff as close to the firewall as i can i guess. any pics anyone can provide would be helpful.
Posts: 872
Joined: 6/25/2004 From: Louisville,
KY, USA Status: offline
The crack is on top of the fuse, just before/ in front of the vertical stabilizer.
yes, when I fisrt pulled it out of the box, I thought Nahhh, i can leave this covering on, and just paint on top of it, but when I [gently] peeled the factory applied tape that was holding the wing spar to the wing it took off a laerge area of factory paint & caused a crack to the adjacent paint ...i was surprised top see that it was such a high gloss film, perhaps if factory sanded,. that would not have happened. I plan to make split flaps an this anyway, so i guess a recovering was in order anyway, it's just a shame though. I'm excited to start, but as i said, it makes me nervous on where to locate & how to set up the retracts. I'd like mine to look a lil' more scale (longer gear legs / wheen wells than what was provided in the kit.
I put the fuse next to the fuse of my Evolution100 powered, modified hangar9 P-47 and it's langer by a good 9". I've heard mixed reviews on the use of the 120fs on in it and hope that has enough power for it.
Posts: 872
Joined: 6/25/2004 From: Louisville,
KY, USA Status: offline
So I stripped my wings and tailplane last night...What a mess~! The paint comes off the factory covering like schrapnell from an explosion, my work room is covered in paint splinters & chips. As I begin the split flap process I'll post some pics. "Broken" used extra wood for his engine lount and I can't tell how far fwd it was, but it looks to be dble the thickness of the cheap mounting block mine came with. Mine actually still has bark on the wood, I can't believe someone would actually use some of the low grade, stock hardware the thing comes with. Say, I saw that you were going to glass your wing. Have you ever done that before? I haven't and am aprehensive given I usually end up with severely uneven surfaces and there's always a spot where the fiberglass cloth is wrinkled or folded on itself on even the most minor of repairs i attempt. Any suggestions?
Posts: 360
Joined: 10/15/2002 From: Murfreesboro,
TN, USA Status: offline
If you are concerned about glassing the wing and tail I would recommend a fabriccovering like Super Coverite. It is easier to work with than monocote and it takes paint very well. I also plan on doing the split flaps for a more scale appearance. I am anxious to see how you do it. I had thought about using thin lite-ply coming off the wing and over the flap. It might require taking the top balsa skin off the flap to get it to seat correctly. How do you plan on doing it?
Posts: 872
Joined: 6/25/2004 From: Louisville,
KY, USA Status: offline
I've attached an image of what i more or less plan to do. Essentially, I'm thinking the same thing. The idea is to remove a portion of the existing sheeting, then cut into the foam, ribs & rear wing former as necessary to "sink" the ply down 1/16" so that when reapplying the balsa, the wing is smooth & uninterrupted.[Note: the ply grain will run the opposite firection of the balsa sheeting for added strength]. I also plan to add extra balsa ro create the wing gun bubbles as shown. The top of the flap will need to be sanded down a min of 1/16" to accommodate for the new layer above this
Posts: 872
Joined: 6/25/2004 From: Louisville,
KY, USA Status: offline
1. Rmove sheating, remove 1/16" foam &trim rear spar 1/16" 2. replace skeating, + extended portion, sand 7 fill as req'd. 3. If desired add mach. gun bubble 4. sand 1/16" off top of flap to accommodate structure above i plan to start this process tonite... i'll let you know how it goes.
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All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> RC Warbirds and Warplanes >> RE: nitroplanes.com FW 190 Build 
RE: nitroplanes.com FW 190 Build - 
...i was surprised top see that it was such a high gloss film, perhaps if factory sanded,. that would not have happened. 
RE: nitroplanes.com FW 190 Build - 
