Posts: 970
Joined: 7/16/2003 From: Brisbane, AUSTRALIA Status: online
quote:
ORIGINAL: Sturtz
I second that LDM. Have a couple of friends looking for one after seeing mine. They do fly nicely.
Did some ground testing on my new gear rail mods a few weeks ago and took some pics for those interested. Sorry I forgot to snap a few during the fabrications. The work was worth every minute. Should have swapped out the original rails right off. The new longer,wider pine rails secured in Sumo Glue hold the 74,deg SpringAirs firmly. The 8" Robinaire struts work better after sending them off to Mark Brill (of Brillelli Engines). He reverse engineered them adding a differant spring and reworking the internals. But they still stick sometimes. At least they will soak up the touch downs now without binding. I'm still hoping Mark will branch off into retracts and market his wares. He really listens to our needs and would machine them right the first time.
Hi Sturtz,
How have you found the 74 deg spring airs so far? I looked at them last night after getting sick of waiting for lenny at shindin to produce a set for me.
At that price on the website, how is the equipment that come with the retracts? do they operate very fast? I have found a cheap supplier of struts so if i can get the units for that good a price and the selector valve etc is ok, then they would turn out to be pretty cheap retracts. They don't really have any info about them so i wasn't sure if they could handle the weight of the model.
Thanks
Dave
< Message edited by ticketec -- 10/7/2007 2:31:16 PM >
Posts: 1501
Joined: 9/22/2004 From: El Reno,
OK, USA Status: offline
They work great. I use Springairs in most of my warbirds and they have never failed me yet. (Yup,, I'm knockin on wood.) The hardware is good quality and simple to install. I use Robart air tanks though. For that matter you can mix and match both company's hardware as you please. The smallish tanks provided with SA's hardware kit look like their crafted for the sole purpose of the duty and seem well made and probably would hold more PSI without rupture than the mousse cans Robart uses. Maybe their larger tanks would be more for me. I like having the full 100+PSI or more capacity although I can get a dozen cycles or better. Spring down systems use less air . At least that's what I've discovered. As far as speed and power goes,,, without restriction they will slam into your wells so hard it'll scare ya. I'm using Robart scale wheels and the Robinaire struts are very heavy. Plus I had him add scissors to mine for a smoother operation than the internals. With reduction I can even get them to slowly retract one at a time and lower at a slower speed. The trick is to restrict close to the valve between the tank and quick connect Y-lines. Then add a restrictor or wheel collar to each line close to the T. Takes a few cycles to get them just right but with a full tank of air they will operate in the scale fashion. FW190s used an electric gear system same as their flaps. No dials or wheels except for trim tabs. Just buttons. They just look differant cycling the gear to me from watching old Luftwaffe stock footage. The real secret is to use two seperate systems complete with duel tanks, valves , mini-servos, etc. Then restrict one more than the other or program a delay into one with your transmitter. I want to try this on my next Wurger. Some will say "less things to go wrong is better." but look at all the extra air you'll have at a very little weight gain. Plus the best part is SA's lower automatically if you spring a leak.
p.s. I love the work your doing on your 190 !!! GET A NEW CAMERA !!!
< Message edited by Sturtz -- 10/18/2007 8:57:45 PM >
Posts: 970
Joined: 7/16/2003 From: Brisbane, AUSTRALIA Status: online
Thanks sturtz,
I have emailed spring air for a shipping quote to get them out here to Australia, so thanks for your advise. I have robarts in my mustang and am not impressed. I have a set of sierra's for a 1/5 scale mustang i have and they are just awsome, but don't wanna pay for a set for the FW just yet , so the spring airs are next for me.
Looks like we have just bought our first house, so the timing for the camera dying could not have been worse.... just when i would like to have pic's of the renovations. well, if it all works out we will be in there in about a months time and that should give me time to buy one in the mean time.
My aim is to have her painted or almost ready for paint by the time we move in.... big ask seeing as it started as a quick and easy kit-bash and i keep going further and further with it!
Posts: 964
Joined: 11/5/2004 From: Norton,
MA, USA Status: offline
I'm just reading your post now. I fly at Bridgewater and at Beattie field in RI. If you ever want to fly at either field you can go as my guest. Just use my name (Bob Proulx) and you won't have any problems at either place. If anyone sees that you have warbirds they'll assume that you know me anyway. Bidgewater is one of the nicest fields in the Northeast.
I flew my 190 again yesterday below are a couple of pics. I need for someone else to fly my plane while I take the pics. I usually hand off my camera setup to someone at the field and while they each do their best, they are just not use to or as good with my setup as I am.
I recently swapped for another 190 ARF. It's a Will Hobby ARF and it has airfoil tail instead of the flat tail plane. Has anyone built one like this?
Posts: 135
Joined: 2/28/2007 From: Twin Falls,
ID, USA Status: offline
I hope somebody is still on this thread.I am building a will hobby 190 same fuse as your planes but it has built up wings.Did any body use the tip from monocote to paint the film after taking the original paint off with 000 wool and removing the shine???By the way you guys are awsome for all the info posted.
< Message edited by jlarsen168 -- 12/9/2007 9:56:14 PM >
Posts: 26
Joined: 4/24/2007 From: montevideo, MN, USA Status: offline
I have a cmp 190 with super tiger 2300 with a perry carb. This engine idles very slow and runs great. Best part it costs 149.00 from tower. You don't need to put big engines in this 190. Bad part is you need lots of weight up front. I put a D cell battery up front to power the glow plug. Plus i put two 2300 mah battery's up front and two oz. What is the wing size is it a 71" and you said it was a built up wing(all wood). I would like to see if i can by the wing from that company. I don't like the foom wing much. I am going to put CJ retracts on it they made a set for it. Do you have picture of your 190 or can you point me in the right direction.
Posts: 135
Joined: 2/28/2007 From: Twin Falls,
ID, USA Status: offline
I dont have the capability to post pics.Mycomputer was made in 94 I can not use any new software.I would think that you could get the wing from will hobby.When you get it take the skin off and check for broken sheeting.I did that tonight and found three cracks.Iam just starting my plane so it wouldnt be worth any pics any way.I do like the plane go to willhobby.com and call ther was somebody who spoke good english.I have heard that you wont get timely responses by e-mail call direct # is on the web.
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RE: nitroplanes.com FW 190 Build - 
, so the spring airs are next for me. 
