Posts: 20
Joined: 6/8/2005 From: Near Coventry, UNITED KINGDOM Status: offline
Hi yes the prop shaft has a big White Cog attached to it and this goes into the gear box (see picture) I have two small metal Washers about 3mm in thickness, one I think goes onto the prop shaft before I put it into the gearbox, I am assuming the other then goes on the other end to make the prop shaft sit snuggly into the casing of the gearbox.
The White cog and the pinion then match up about 75% to each other. I am pretty sure I understand what you mean, I was leaving a gap of about 2 mm with the washers etc I had and that was causing a poor connection betweeen pinion and cog, so believed I had to have no gap, which then resulted in the tightening of the prop. Will get hold of a few more washers and try for the smaller gap.
Also (I am probably being thick here!) does it matter which way on the prop goes, there is a groove in it for a nut to fit in, does the prop go on with this groove facing towards the engine, or facing away from the engine, or does it not really matter?
Thanks very much for your advise, appreciated. Next time I take something apart I must remember to make a note how it goes back together again!
Regards
Bozman
< Message edited by BOZMAN -- 4/11/2007 11:53:50 PM >
Posts: 101
Joined: 11/9/2006 From: Southwick, MA, USA Status: offline
Good morning,
It sounds as if you have the correct perception as to the assembly, a little bit more experimentation will produce the desired result. Yes, in this case it is important to install the propellor in the proper aspect. If you will observe the propellor carefully you will see a gentle "concave" curvature to the blade. You want this inside curve to face to the rear, in effect you may visualize the propellor blade as it gathers or "cups" the air and thrusts it rearward therefore providing an efficient degree of forward "lift". Much like the action of the curve of the wing itself. You will also notice in comparison with glo engine props that the curve is more pronounced with the electric than the glo since we typically turn the prop with less rpm and "more" torque, [figuratively speaking] with the gearing that is often used in this range of electric aircraft. In an overall sense we endevour tto make the most efficient use of the motor/battery/gearing/propellor whereas a glo engine being oftentimes much more "overpowered" relative to an electric aircraft, therefore a glo prop albeit well designed seems to be relatively less critical for performance than an electric prop since the glo engine has such an abundance of power. Hope this helps, let us know how you make out. andrew P901
Posts: 289
Joined: 12/3/2005 From: Corona,
CA, USA Status: offline
bozman,
those 3mm "washers" are the bearings...you should have two...one for each end of the gearbox...once you have the bearings in place, prop shaft goes in, followed by the 3-4mm plastic spacer, two or three nuts, the prop, spinner backplate, metal washer and then the heavy prop nut...it's easy to tell which way the prop should face...the back of it is recessed out for the nut it sits on...hope this makes sense...let me know if you need pixs...
< Message edited by gunracer -- 4/12/2007 6:46:00 PM >
Posts: 20
Joined: 6/8/2005 From: Near Coventry, UNITED KINGDOM Status: offline
Hi all, thanks for your help "getting there" , all assembled Ok, however I now note the pinion is slipping on the motor shaft as it spins reducing the amount of power transferred to the prop shaft. Any tips on how to stop this? Maybe put some glue down it to try and stick it onto the motor shaft a bit better? This happened once before and I ended up buying a new motor with the pinion on it.
Plane looks good, just wouldnt mind getting it back up in the air where it should be!
Have tried a bit of glue, works for about 20 seconds then the pinion comes loose again...agh! Any tips appreciated
< Message edited by BOZMAN -- 4/13/2007 5:47:30 PM >
Posts: 20
Joined: 6/8/2005 From: Near Coventry, UNITED KINGDOM Status: offline
Hi there , the gluing has failed on the pinion. The replacement motor is a good idea. However the shop where I get parts from only has the stock motor with the plastic one on.
Anyone know where I can get a replacement motor online with this metal pinion on? If not UK any place that will ship to UK?
This plastic one Parkzone provide must be boardering on the "sale of goods - fit for purpose", unless they mean "fit for one or two flights!"
The parkzone Stryker was superbly designed, but am a bit disappointed in this FW190 so far !
< Message edited by BOZMAN -- 4/16/2007 6:27:40 PM >
Posts: 175
Joined: 8/13/2006 From: New Haven,
CT, USA Status: offline
I replaced the FW motor with a HBZ Super Cub motor w/steel pinion on it. Waiting on the weather to clear so that I can fly it. They did sell a 2 metal pinions in a bag but they only show the plastic gears with a different pn.
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Gravity specialist outstanding in a field... AMA 869586
Posts: 125
Joined: 11/14/2005 From: Dublin,
CA, USA Status: offline
Wow that sucks. I've had a plastic pinion on mine and it only just now started to fail after about two major nose in wrecks and 6 months of Lipo-charged use.
I'm still on my 2nd plastic pinion with a casual CA glue job - I do agree though, kinda hair ball trying to get the bird out of a stall and gliding her into the field when that sort of thing happens though.
Posts: 6
Joined: 4/24/2007 From: , UNITED KINGDOM Status: offline
Hi,
Ive just received my PZ FW-190 and ive noticed that the plastic (the bit that is attached to the fusalage where the wing goes underneath) which should fit snugly onto the wing isnt (can actually see through the plane just above the wing/below the fusalage), i should be able to fill it in or maybe take it of and "re-bend" the plastic into shape so when the wing is on the curved plastic bit does touch the wing but i thought i would ask here first before i go changing things!
The wing is definatly screwed on completly so the gap hasnt appeared from the wing not being screwed in enough.
Posts: 468
Joined: 1/28/2005 From: Fairfax,
VA, USA Status: offline
Kronus, I picture would help. I hate to give advice on something I can't see. I always peek through the battery hatch to make sure the screws are in completely and correctly. The back screw can be hard to get in all the way or may be stripped.
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H9 Sopwith Camel, F-27C, Typhoon 3D, DR-1, Su-27, Super Cub
Posts: 6
Joined: 4/24/2007 From: , UNITED KINGDOM Status: offline
tclaridge,
Here is a picture of the FW which i found on a different page on this thread, This is not my plane!!
I have put some annotation in the picture to hopefully make things clearer. The problem is on both side but slightly more than on one side, where you see i have pointed to the problem area is where a 10-12mm gap is present.
Once i get home from work i will post a picture of what it actually looks like.
Thanks
< Message edited by kronus -- 5/4/2007 1:15:02 PM >
Posts: 101
Joined: 11/9/2006 From: Southwick, MA, USA Status: offline
Good morning Kronus,
If you will go back to page 20 on this thread you will see a description of a solution to this problem.
I had the same thing happen to my plane and the rear screw actually pulled right out and stripped out the material. I ended up using a sheetrock screw with the head turned down a little bit on a grinding wheel. Then because I found it frustrating to try to get the screw to catch when the head was way down in the hole I cut a length of hard plastic tubing to hold the head of the screw flush with the bottom of the wing. Of course you need to get screws of the proper length but sheetrock screws are readily available in all lengths and the hold the plastic frame much better than the original setup. You will also see the numerous mods I made to the plane and some creative mods done by others. Hope this helps, andrew
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RE: ParkZone NEW FW-190 Butcher... - 
