duneslider
Posts: 949
Joined: 9/21/2005 From: Riverton, UT, USA Status: offline
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Here is that write up on adjusting the diff and slipper. If someone wants to try it with a high powered motot and see if the gear still melts I would be curious. They claim that by using the ae nylon gear and adjusting like this most people won't have problems. Later Duneslider Ball diff slippage can as we know melt the diff gear. If the slipper gives before the ball diff the gear will be safe. Here is how I check the balance between my slipper and ball diff. 1. Remove the cover revealing the spur and pinion gears. 2. Tighten the slipper all the way 3. Back off the slipper ¼ turn. 4. Hold the right rear wheel and spur gear so they cannot turn I use the heel of my hand to hold the tire to a table top while holding the spur with my fingers. 5. Try to turn the left wheel with your left hand (as if truck were moving forward). It should be almost impossible to turn the left wheel. If so stop. Your diff is good. If you can turn the wheel and the slipper shaft is not turning your diff is too loose. 6. Tighten the diff 1/8th turn and re-test. 7. Repeat until the wheel will not turn without turning the slipper. Once the diff is adjusted you will need to set the slipper. This can be fun! 1. Turn your radio and truck on 2. Hold the truck out in front of you, holding it by the rear wheels. The truck should hang nose down. 3. Have some one pull full throttle on the transmitter. Be careful it does not hit you in the nose. If the truck comes up above level the slipper is too tight. Loosen it and re-test. If the truck comes up between ½ (45 degrees) to level you are good. If the truck does not come at least ½ way up tighten the slipper a little and re-test. I have developed a way to do this myself, I sit down and put the truck between my knees (bottom facing me) and use the transmitter myself, I can't convince my wife to even touch my truck, not to mention help. It has also been said by Hydro_Gin that it is important to do this periodically and especially when you hear funny noises out of the rear end of the truck. jep rc offers the following advice: 12-09-2002, 11:09 PM Jacob - You hit the nail on the head with your question about how snug is snug regarding the Evader diff. I think this is the main problem people have with the diff. The idea is to fully compress the little spring on the diff screw then back off just slightly while still leaving the spring compressed. I think most people stop tightening before the spring is compressed, and then back off, which results in a loose diff, and melted diff gear shortly thereafter. The problem is, it is difficult to know when the spring is fully compressed - and tightening too much will result in a stripped nut, or broken nut carrier. The best thing to do is to try tightening a diff while it is assembled, but out of the tranny, so you can look carefully at the spring and get a feel for when it is tight - you *can* tell the difference between when the nut initially contacts the spring, and when the spring bottoms out fully compressed. Hope that makes sense. Jep
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Toe-block Braces The end of broken Evader toe-in blocks!
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