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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/3/2006 11:45 PM   
lcnet



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yes, it's still the original connector..

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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/4/2006 1:48 AM   
Flyojumper



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Talking about filling shocks, I have the biggest problems in filling up mine with absolutely no air whatsover... (I have an Evader BX pro)
I tried everything, wait 15mn for air bubbles to surface, twist the piston gently as you push it down, put some drops of oil of the top cap (inside part of course) before inserting it, followed the instructions to the smallest detail, etc... and I still can't get them to be 100% air free.
I even took my car to the LHS and even the "veteran" guy over there couldn't get them to be air free after 20mn of tries (but he admitted he never worked on bottom filled shocks before).
Could someone give pointers or even better pics/videos?
BTW, once the shocks are filled very properly (100% air free) are they supposed to stay this way or will air eventually find its way in?

< Message edited by Flyojumper -- 2/4/2006 1:49 AM >


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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/4/2006 1:51 AM   
CustomTamiyas4Life



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Air can eventually get in if a seal is bad or other things.

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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/4/2006 1:56 AM   
duneslider


 

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Once you get the shocks done you need to get some sort of shock covers. (some use balloons) The seals start getting sand in them and will let air in and oil out. I read somewhere that the duratrax seals aren't the best out there. They kept refering to blue seals if that helps any. I don't know who makes them but they said tower sells them.

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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/4/2006 5:34 AM   
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The "blue" seals are made by MIP I've been using them in my shocks and they work great. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAX28&P=7

BTW, I have removed the off topic posts that were in this thread, if you want to discuss bikes try the OT forum, if you want to sell stuff try the marketplace.

< Message edited by jakjr -- 2/4/2006 5:38 AM >



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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/4/2006 5:36 AM   
CustomTamiyas4Life



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I was hoping someone would do that.......

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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/4/2006 5:54 AM   
discgolfer72



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well my speed gems 15 t motor in my evader finaly needs a com cut so untill the lhs can get their new lathe i bought this orion method r 11t motor for it anyone ever used them are they good motors this is the first motor i have bought that has not been trinty or reedy how does it compare


i dont really run my evader all that much any pinion size ideas for the 11t motor iiv been running the stock one so far

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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/4/2006 6:02 AM   
CustomTamiyas4Life



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I'm ordering some new stuff since i broke another servo. My limit is 150. I wanna go fast, but i need other stuff, so it's tuff. I def. need new radio system(mx-a) and a mg servo. I think the cheapest 12t esc is the streak, but i've had bad past experiences with it, so i dunno. For a 12t i won't spend over 40 most likely so i have only a handful to pick from. I want deans plugs, but to replace everything i need like 25 of em, so i don't think i'll do that yet. Wait, i have 46.50 to spend on a motor kuz i have a little credit. I want the cobalt or team checkpoint, but may be a little too much. I wonder how the epic intense mods are? Pretty cheap. I'm hoping to get my truck up to 35mph. I haven't broken anything, but it may be because i can't get over 4 feet of air with the motor i have now. Well, i gotta decide in like 3 days so if anyone has some motor info or suggestions i'll listen.

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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/4/2006 6:04 AM   
CustomTamiyas4Life



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Golfer, i see you have a method r in the pics. What wind, how fast? Is it any good for 16 bucks?

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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/4/2006 6:12 AM   
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I have one of those in my bigger helicopter. From what I can tell it's decent for the price. The motor is kinda screwy though, I believe the "r" stands for reverse (as in the motor is designed to be ran in reverse) because the timing on mine would only go to either 0 degrees or negative (retarded) timing.

BTW, the armature in mine fried (I was running it on 8 cells so it doesn't surprise me) so I replaced it with a 27t arm out of stock Trinity motor. Runs better now, I've ran it on 9 cells for a long time (as I said, it's in a helicopter) and it's still going strong.


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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/4/2006 6:25 AM   
discgolfer72



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just loaded it up charging a bat and ill see if its any good hmmm reverse that sucks man i hate the lhs i went to the method r are the only motors they carry execp some koysho motors and they are reverse motors too but for 20 bucks i guess if it works at all ill be lucky




jakjr

what timing did u get the best performance at


tamiya ist a 11t

< Message edited by discgolfer72 -- 2/4/2006 6:26 AM >



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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/4/2006 6:27 AM   
-Inverted-



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I prefer losi shock oil.

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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/4/2006 7:02 AM   
jakjr



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quote:

jakjr

what timing did u get the best performance at


Witht that motor in a car you would get the best performance at 0 degrees. My helicopter required the motor to be ran in reverse so I had better performance by turning the timing down.


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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/4/2006 7:06 AM   
discgolfer72



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cool thanks


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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/4/2006 7:30 AM   
discgolfer72



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well just took it out for a quick bash and im not dissapointed for 20 bucks this motor hauls its got a better top end speed than my reedy 10 t pulse r but not as much accel


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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/4/2006 7:37 AM   
Flyojumper



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Duneslider, what do you mean exactly by "some sort of shock covers, some use balloon"? Can you explain in more details?
Jakjr, thanks for the link on blue seals. However, the size is pretty damn close but since duratrax/evader use metric and those are in inches, I was wondering how much of a direct fit it really is, especially since the smallest difference in size there could make or break the effectiveness of the seal.
So anyone has COMPLETELY 100% air free shocks on the Evader?
If so, could you give some detailed tips on how you fill them?

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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/4/2006 7:38 AM   
Flyojumper



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Discgolfer72, do you use the Intellispeed 12t ESC with that 11t Method R? If so, aren't you afraid to burn it up?

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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/4/2006 7:44 AM   
discgolfer72



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no i refuse to run dura trax esc they r crud i had the no limit one and it burnt up running a 13 t motor i run a vintage tekin tsc 410s in the evader and have never had problems with it i run a 6 t in my orignal rc10 with a tekin tsc410s2 and it barely gets warm


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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/4/2006 7:49 AM   
Flyojumper



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Alright, just asking, could have been useful info for me since I have that ESC

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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/4/2006 7:52 AM   
duneslider


 

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Right off the top of my head if you can find a pic of Doahhs evader he had shock covers on his shocks. I believe he used balloons too. Basically, you cut the top of the balloon off so it is like a sleave to go over the shock. Put a zip tie top and bottom of the shock. This way no dirt can get to the shaft and then to the seals. Those seals by mip that jakjr posted are the right ones. Give them a try. I have heard it is tough to get the shock completely 100% free of air.

Later
Duneslider

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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/4/2006 8:00 AM   
discgolfer72



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Flyojumper id just be careful when choosing a motor i also bought a tazer 19 turn limit esc and was running a 27 t green machine with it and cooked reverse
some of the mod spec motors actualy put out more power than some of the lower turn mod motors



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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/4/2006 8:20 AM   
Flyojumper



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Well if I stay under manufacturer specs, the warrantee should/will cover it. I have 2 more months of warrantee on my ESC right now (3 months correct?).
I'm not planning to push the envelope too far but I may run a 12t Revolution on my 12t Intellispeed ESC.

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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/4/2006 9:44 AM   
raz54


 

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Finally got the 'pro' version today! Can't wait to try it out tomorrow. I noticed the rear axles are not the same as the basic evader, I see these have that pin that some one
else lost. I think the basic axles might be better. You guys that have had the pro longer might know which axle is better. I also got the sand tires today and they rip! Rooster tails flying and now it really flies up the dunes. I'll post a couple pics later.

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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/4/2006 5:29 PM   
CustomTamiyas4Life



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The cvd's on the pro are a little better. Make sure you loctite that pin before you run, they always fall out. I made custom ones, and i don't have problems anymore.

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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C. - 2/4/2006 5:40 PM   
discgolfer72



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Flyojumper i couldent warnty either because i had to change the connectors to deans and it says that if u change their connectors it voids warnty all of these companys needs to get togather an start selling products that come with deans
the tamiya plugs are actualy made for sound systems and were designed to carry no more than 5 v i gueess they were ok back in the 80s when 5v whas what most cars ran at but now with these high voltage and output bats somthing needs to change



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All Forums >> RC Cars, Buggies, Trucks, Tanks and more >> RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more >> RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
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